Our (brand new) boiled wool coat
It's a rather special coat that kicks off our winter pieces, because the proposal is more "strong" than usual. As you will see, it is a fairly rare piece on the French market.
We wanted a coat that:
- appeals to those who are often on public transport
- who need to have a coat that is not too thick to avoid heat stroke inside!
- and which protects you from the cold or the wind when you go out.
For the first time at BonneGueule, we used boiled wool. It's our most comfortable coat, with a material with a really special texture.
Important note: Please note, this piece is not intended to be a permanent
And here is our new arrival in our coats. Important note: this is a prototype in the photo. Since then, we have slightly raised the shoulder line, which we found a little low here.
This coat, if I wanted to argue, is the response from Julien, our collection manager, to my immoderate taste for techwear. A lightweight, very comfortable coat with all-natural stretch.
But with all the properties of a 100% wool and 0% synthetic sheet.
Yes, yes, it is so comfortable that you will really be tempted to take it everywhere with you.
What is boiled wool?
I'll be honest with you: I had never worked with boiled wool before , I don't wear clothes in such a material and I had very vague knowledge of it.
And I regret it, because you will see, it is a material that hides its game well. From a visual point of view, I who like texture, I am served: its appearance is difficult to describe, it is both compact, dense, but very flexible.
But how is it made?
Have you ever put a wool sweater at the wrong temperature in the washing machine? Have you seen how it comes out three sizes smaller, with a compact hand?
If so, you have already made boiled wool without knowing it, by felting it! 😉
On an industrial scale, it's exactly the same principle: you put a wool knit in very hot water, and it shrinks to become this very dense material, but which retains its natural elasticity.
Once the wool is boiled, it is hard to see that it is basically a knitted stitch. And yes: there are also raw edges in this photo, and I'll talk about them later.
For the more technical among you, the weight of the material is 420g per linear meter
Simply put: it's warm, and it remains flexible.
A small Italian supplier
This wool comes from the Italian manufacturer Inwool. As usual with this type of small, confidential supplier, its website is very basic , and communicates little.
Please note that this manufacturer has initiated an environmental approach, it is therefore a member of 4sustainability , a network of Italian companies sensitive to sustainable development.
Boiled wool is a very special material, even more so when it is high-end. The brands that Inwool supplies are therefore mainly luxury houses . In general, we are dealing with parts worth several hundred euros, when not thousands.
This boiled wool is then sent to Romania, where our usual workshop for our coats is located.
Instant culture: boiled wool ≠ wool felt
Yes, boiled wool is not wool felt , it is very different.
For boiled wool, as I said, we knit wool threads together , like for a sweater, and then we put everything to boil (a felting process then occurs, and the result is boiled wool , which could be called "felted wool", but not "wool felt"...).
That's boiled wool. Basically, it is a stitch, like that of a sweater.
To create wool felt, it's different. We take wool fibers (which are not even in the form of threads, just fibers), and we mix them so as to agglomerate them to create felt , this dense and rigid material.
Basically, unlike boiled wool, we do not start from a knitted stitch, but from fibers. For example, we use felt to make hats.
Unlike wool felt, despite its compact appearance, boiled wool retains the drape of a wool stitch.
And here, wool felt. Photo credit: Merasa felt
If we had made this coat out of wool felt, it would have been very uncomfortable: imagine a coat made of the same material as a felt hat.
The benefits of boiled wool
Yes, boiled wool is an effective windbreaker!
As I said, boiling the wool will densify the knit to make it very compact. But since it remains wool, the process will "lock" a lot of air in this material, which will increase the thermoregulatory properties of the wool , namely:
- keep warm when it's cold
- limit the “sauna” effect when temperatures rise (e.g. when you enter the metro)
- its compactness makes it an effective “windproof” material
- wick away perspiration even more easily as there is no lining to hinder the process
- and who says evacuated sweat says zero odor
And since it's a knit, it has the elasticity of a good old sweater, something quite rare on a coat.
In terms of feeling, once the piece is on your back, it's complicated to describe. It's really halfway between a chunky knit cardigan for freedom of movement and a coat for the "protective" side.
If there is a word to define how it feels in it, it would be "comfy", this English word to describe a comfortable and cozy feeling.
It's really an atypical piece, you'll love trying it.
The comfort is such that it is almost a piece that you can keep indoors. I say "almost", but I'm sure some of you will keep it on when you arrive at a party or simply forget to put it on a coat rack, since the feel is close to a cardigan.
So to summarize:
boiled wool = very pleasant stretch + good insulating properties
And for the more adventurous among you, this coat can serve as a mid layer if you have a loose parka.
Boiled wool + sweater = very effective protection against wind and cold. Small spoiler: it’s a full BonneGueule outfit…
Because I'm not hiding anything from you...
Some blogs, due to the density of boiled wool, give it “waterproof” properties…
Clearly, this is overkill. But because it is a very compact material, if there is a little rain, you will still be relatively protected!
However, it is not rain gear.
So, I did the sink test: I put this piece on, I turned on the tap, and I put my arm under the jet of water.
Water does not easily soak through boiled wool, in the same way that water struggles to soak through a wool felt hat. It confirmed my intuition: it's not a waterproof membrane, but in urban use, it will totally do the trick. And if you have an umbrella, the question no longer even arises.
And the finishes?
The raw edges
The raw edge is very simple to understand: you cut a piece of fabric, and you leave the edges of the fabric as they are. And as you will see, this is not without consequences when it comes to manufacturing.
You are not trying to hide the edge of the cut, or camouflage it with a particular set of seams, no, no, you are not doing anything. And that's it, you have a clean edge.
This is a finish that cannot be used with all fabrics (otherwise it will fray), and we also see it on some suede jackets.
A fashion house uses and abuses the raw edge: Lanvin . They put it almost everywhere, and particularly on knitwear and woolen cloth.
Here are the raw edges clearly visible at the shoulder level.
The benefit of the free edge?
There is an interesting "graphic" aspect , which breaks a little from the very clean and structured side expected of a city coat.
The piece is more relaxed, more "raw" and also a little more original. It’s a cool twist!
We chose a shawl collar which reinforces the "relaxation" side of this piece, because this type of collar is widely used in interior clothing (dressing gown, but also "dinner jacket", etc.).
A paradoxically more complex confection
Although it is a priori simple, its construction requires more attention to detail than a classic coat:
- the raw edges must be particularly well worked to be regular, especially with a material as capricious as wool jersey, especially with industrial machines.
- Furthermore, the absence of lining means that all the seams must be taken care of. Well yes, there is nothing to hide the slightest protruding thread. It is therefore necessary to clean each seam, including those inside the sleeves (industrial nonsense, because who looks at the seams inside their sleeves? But it was necessary for this coat)
- the binding of the seams on this type of material is not the easiest to do, because it constantly moves, like chewing gum.
When you open the coat, you will see that all the seams are taped. It takes a long time to do, but the result is so much “cleaner”…
Patch pockets
Still in this spirit of relaxation and spontaneity, the exterior pockets are patched.
The patch pockets, which make the work of the raw edges clearly visible on the edges of the pocket and on the sleeve.
Zipped pockets
And otherwise, the two interior pockets are zipped, I know that this is a “feature” that is very appreciated by some of our readers.
You like it, here is the return of interior zipped pockets!
Horn buttons (and counter-buttons)
As on our other coats, the buttons are made of horn, in order to have these beautiful nuances drawn on each button.
Each horn button has a unique design.
The buttons are also sewn onto counter buttons, to provide strength.
These counter-buttons solidify the sewing of the horn buttons.
Our new colors for our straight coat and our wool and Polartec jacket
The “Navy Coat”, the more classic cousin of our Camel Coat: more refined but still just as elegant
Basically, it all started with our camel coat, 2 years ago. For those who don't know him, here is his presentation here .
His particuliarity ? It’s a totally French woolen cloth.
We have heavily highlighted the wool of this coat, which comes from a French company with the EPV (Living Heritage Company) label , Jules Tournier .
We enjoyed our meeting so much that Geoffrey and I even did a report in Mazamet :
According to feedback from our in-store advisors, last winter, many of you told us of a slight disappointment: it was impossible to find a sleek and versatile navy overcoat, or a winter jacket, on our racks. casual, simple and easy to wear.
Here is the navy blue version of our camel coat, slightly modified…
And it's true that we try so hard to offer you pieces that stand out a little from the crowd, that we sometimes forget that quality classics are also important to you.
So we took two pieces that have already proven themselves in slightly stronger colors, and we declined them in a beautiful navy color .
It's a more classic coat, which will allow you to make outfits with pretty shades of blue, not forgetting to add an accessory of a stronger color to brighten up the outfit (here, the tie).
A minimalist style
We looked for a more refined look , for a less “tailored” style, but more urban.
Here is the new Navy Coat. Its shape, cut and material do not change. On the other hand, you can note that the lapels have a more classic shape, and that the "ticket pocket" has been removed.
- The martingale (the belt-like buttoned fastener) at the back has been removed. It's a very "tailored" detail, but it was divisive for some of you.
- The third exterior pocket , called the "ticket pocket", has also been removed for greater simplicity. The two exterior pockets, however, are still slanted. we find that it gives a more subtle line to the coat, and it remains a discreet detail.
- The rear slit , which was previously closed and made using a fold of fabric, is here replaced by a simple, open slit, for a more casual result.
- And finally, peak lapels have been replaced with classic notch lapels, like those found on most blazers and overcoats. Like the martingale, this gave the coat a stronger style, but not necessarily suitable for those looking for something more classic.
The pointed lapels present on the camel coat have given way to more classic straight lapels.
In terms of style, it really is the overcoat that will suit all situations. Do you want to wear it in a somewhat formal professional context? No problem !
Do you want to wear a simple sweater underneath, with sneakers and jeans? No worries either.
The usual finishes, still present
Apart from that, the finishes are still those you know from the camel coat :
Curved chest pocket called "barchetta".
The usual horn buttons…
…reinforced by counter-buttons.
Interior and exterior pocket seams reinforced with half-moons.
And above all, the famous pockets lined with fleece fabric, soft and warm, to warm your hands in harsh weather. I assure you that it is not the easiest to take a photo of.
Our navy coat, seen in profile. You can note that the martingale is no longer there, and that the closed slit made from a fold of fabric has been removed, in favor of a simple open slit.
But allow me to give you a little reminder on the subject...
A French woolen cloth from Jules Tournier
First of all, it is a fairly heavy and thick sheet, made of pure wool.
It is still made at Jules Tournier, one of the last French wool mills , 150 years old, whose fabrics are popular with high-end and luxury goods.
What I really like is that the blue color is obtained by mixing different navy blue, topaz blue and midnight blue fibers, which gives a very noble shade to this sheet.
Our Jules Tournier wool sheet, in a slightly mottled navy color.
Its weight is 410 g/m², or 615g per linear meter for a width of 150cm .
We didn't make it in as heavy a weight as our double-breasted coats - because an overcoat with such a shape would have been too stiff - but it's still really dense, especially compared to the wool sheets you'll find most of the time. time on the market. You will feel it just by touch.
Given that the color is classic, it is a piece that will go easily with a more casual outfit.
Finally, our manufacturer always applies a mechanical water-repellent treatment to the woolen cloth.
It's not as good as a technical waterproof material, obviously, but it will make your coat even more versatile. And will prevent you from ending up soaked in the event of showers.
Here is a demonstration of the water-repellent treatment of our woolen cloth: the water remains on the surface, without being directly absorbed.
Navy jacket in handmade wool Jules Tournier (and in Polartec Alpha!)
It's the turn of the "Sapin green" jacket to be available in navy. To learn more about the genesis of this piece, I invite you to reread my presentation article, where James Bond rubs shoulders with American special forces...
In this piece we want to mix two things:
- tradition with this wool from Jules Tournier (again!)
- innovation with its invisible insulation, Polartec Alpha.
The goal was to have a blue jacket that was easy to wear, with thermal properties that were very present, but not visible...
It is a piece that can be worn very easily in a casual wardrobe.
Like its predecessor, of which you can read the detailed presentation right here , the exterior wool sheet is 100% wool and always comes from Jules Tournier .
The shape and finishes are the same as for the green jacket. It also has fleece pockets to warm your hands.
The only detail that changes compared to the green jacket: the side pockets now have zips rather than snap flaps, following your feedback. It's even quicker to open or close!
The cut has not changed, we still want a relatively fitted piece.
The weight of the material is 330 g/m² , which allows the jacket to have real flexibility and fluidity.
But if you think it's less warm, think again, because under the woolen cloth hides a very high-performance technical padding: Polartec Alpha®.
Polartec Alpha® padding
When our jacket came out, we were one of the only (and first) French brands to use Polartec Alpha® as part of urban clothing. So much so that our jacket now accompanies the French Polartec team to its trade shows.
A year later, I still remain satisfied with this insulation of the future.
It's not angora rabbit, but Polartec Alpha®. On our piece, it is completely invisible, since it is located between the lining and outer wool.
For those who are not yet familiar with this fantastic insulator, here is what I wrote at the time:
The lifesaving reminder about the Polartec Alpha®
The importance of padding
This is the other great characteristic of this jacket: its hidden technicality.
I am frustrated to see that this element, although key to comfort, is too often treated lightly.
At an average brand, this is how the choice of insulation for a quilted garment is decided:
George-Michael, chief designer:
“Let’s go ask Jean-Mich from production where we’ll find the cheapest cotton wadding!”
(I'm barely exaggerating)
Most often, brands see it as the component that must be as inexpensive as possible .
They then simply specify that there is "padding", without ever indicating its origin or its properties.
It’s all the more unfortunate as clothing insulation continues to improve. So, as soon as I started to be interested in this type of material, it was clear that this aspect of our Jules Tournier wool jacket would be taken care of. My techwear side has spoken!
And very quickly, it was the Polartec Alpha® that caught my attention...
Polartec, insulation for US Special Forces
Basically, the Polartec Alpha® is an order of the Special Forces of the American army.
In cold regions
“Snow fights between colleagues are fun, but what clothes should I wear? And how can I not be cold when it’s over?” This is where the Polartec Alpha® comes in! (Reuters credit)
Until now, Special Forces had a system of layers of clothing to remove or wear depending on the situation. Good old layering, in short.
It was painful, especially when the perspiration did not have time to evacuate and the soldier had to remain motionless: perfect conditions for shivering...
Their specifications were therefore as clear as they were complicated to implement. To protect them from the cold, they needed something that:
- keeps you warm (the base),
- facilitates mobility, therefore quite compact ,
- resists compression well , especially if you roll the garment in a bag or if you wear a backpack on top,
- breathe when there is movement: excess heat must be evacuated ,
- does not fear humidity and dries quickly.
And that’s how the Polartec Alpha® was born!
The bubbly Brendan Leonard humorously paints a portrait of the Polartec Alpha®, comparing it with the snow owl. This animal maintains its body at 38-40°, even when it is -50° outside.
I was also reassured to see the list of brands using Polartec Alpha®. Let us cite in particular:
-
Arct'eryx Veilance
,
- who used it "in a sandwich" with Schoeller and merino on a vest (more than 400 dollars per piece, on the other hand),
- Sea to Sky ,
- Triple Aught Design , a techwear brand halfway between explorer clothing and an urban spirit,
- Kitsbow , a very nice brand of cycling clothing,
- Millet , Black Yak and Rab , which I can safely say are among the best outdoor brands in the world . Here too, that such demanding brands use Polartec Alpha® is a very good sign for me.
But why does it regulate heat and humidity so well?
Usually, synthetic insulation resembles wadding, like cotton used in a pharmacy. Long cottony filaments form a more or less thick material. Problem: the wadding can sag, distribute poorly, be too bulky, etc.
Polartec therefore started from scratch, looking for another path
Here, the filaments are replaced by a very resistant and stable mesh in the garment . There are tiny “hairs” on each side: these are what trap air and keep heat.
And it's the mesh structure that allows perspiration to circulate easily. It is important that Polartec Alpha® dries quickly, because dry air is a much better insulator than humid air.
Since the whole thing is much more compact than wadding, this allows insulating clothing relatively close to the body can be created.
Polartec made a video of which they have the secret
Turn up the volume for epic music, and you'll want to save the world.
Quilting that doesn't sag
The Polartec Alpha® has another advantage, quite simple for outdoor use but very important on more urban clothing...
Remember, other insulation comes in the form of wadding or feathers. If we place them as is as padding, these insulators sag
But we don't have this problem at all with the Polartec Alpha®! Since it is a very stable mesh, it can be layered very simply - almost like a suit jacket interfacing - without needing to compartmentalize it.
In terms of the exterior appearance, on a “fashion” piece, it changes everything. We have an exterior that looks like a classic jacket, without the down jacket look!
So, what's it like to wear Polartec Alpha®?
That was the big question when I received the first prototype. Indeed, although Polartec is very breathable, on this jacket, it is still mounted under a good old Jules Tournier woolen sheet. So what interested me was compactness.
Well, for the moment, it's a jacket that fulfills its role perfectly . It's nice not to feel too hot as soon as you start walking a little quickly or inside a store, while being protected from the cold when you're sitting outside for example.
A year later, having worn Polartec Alpha several times, I still remain satisfied with this material which gives a "cozy" side to this piece. Those who have worn our sleeveless vest know what I mean, even though it's difficult to describe: it's an enveloping and comforting warmth.
When you combine Jules Tournier wool with Polartec Alpha, you also have a great windproof result.
Because I'm not hiding anything from you: the limits of this room
Not the warmest insulation, but the most versatile
First of all, it doesn't replace a huge down jacket for very cold weather, like Canada Goose .
Quite simply because down is the most insulating thing. But at least there were — with certainty — no mistreated geese in the design of this piece.
Moreover, Polartec Alpha® is not intended to be the warmest insulation possible, but rather the one that has the best bulk/warmth/breathability ratio. And that was exactly what I wanted on this urban piece.
Polartec is also very transparent on this subject:
Is Alpha “warmer” than down or synthetic insulation, pound for pound?
Nate Simmons, marketing director of Polartec: " It's not warmer than synthetic insulation, for the same weight. We didn't try to invent a warmer insulation. We tried to invent a more breathable, more breathable insulation. active, and which stores more air.
In the same way that synthetic insulation is not warmer than natural down, but serves other functions.
This versatility allows the Alpha to be suitable for a wider range of activities and weather conditions. This is what makes it good padding under a windproof material, where other padded jackets do not wick away moisture well."
For city use, where you constantly go from hot to cold - while wanting to keep a fitted silhouette - this is precisely what interested me.
In summary...
Outdoor Magic , a great site on outdoor clothing, ends its Polartec Alpha® test with a rather reassuring conclusion... This is what reassured me in the choice of this technology!
Outdoor Magic: " Hmmm, it's ultimately a somewhat magical insulator. Not too hot when you move, not too cold or damp when you stop. This padding is the one we've seen the most this winter, and this is not going to change in the near future.
Is it an insulator? Is it a thermo-regulator? Is it a thermo-regulating insulation? Or mutant stuffing? Or a platypus material that combines all these properties?
You know what ? I don't know anything about it and I don't really care. What really matters is that it works. And it works admirably."
Your testimony about the Polartec Alpha
Because you are even better placed than us to talk about its warmth, we wanted to make a little space for a customer comment on its performance!
Thank you Jonathan for this detailed feedback!
And now that you know everything, it's up to you! 🔥
Benedict
Did one of our coats catch your eye?
Our boiled wool coat , the wool and Polartec Alpha® jacket and the Jules Tournier carded wool straight coat are available in our stores in Paris , Lyon and Bordeaux and on our e-shop .
