A much more airy fabric than poplin, linen also manages body moisture much better.
By the way, as I write these lines, it's very hot (almost 30°C) and I'm very happy to be wearing one of the models! I avoid the "soaked shirt" effect since linen dries and airs very quickly.
I'm not going to lie to you, I was a little worried about our first linen shirts, because it's a material that is not easy to work with at all. But thanks to Alexandre's work, we were able to release two linen shirts last year , exactly as I imagined them. You gave them a warm welcome, it was even their first linen shirt for some of them.
It is therefore quite logical that we continued on this path, because I feel a real dissatisfaction with linen shirts on the current market: lack of variety, failure to take into account the "hand" of linen, and cuts that are too loose.
For this 2016 Linen Edition , we have gone even further upmarket in the fabrics chosen with - call me if you see it elsewhere - linen with raised and micro-patterns :).
Last thing, both fabrics are Masters of Linen certified!
A linen with textured diamond patterns
Imagine my surprise when I first touched this linen.
First favorite: a linen fabric with raised patterns , I had never seen that before. Albini showed very good taste with diamonds having 4 small white dots at each corner.
A neutral blue base, but an original pattern, that's Albini's creativity.
I loved the dressy side of the pattern on the casualness of the linen .
This is exactly what I'm looking for, it brings variety to an outfit. "With white pants and a colorful unstructured blazer, the result will be perfect", I thought in my head when I first touched this atypical fabric.
The textures of the linen and the pattern give character.
A “piqué” effect linen with micro-patterns
The second shirt is cut from linen with micro-patterns that slightly recall the look of a polo shirt , hence the nickname "piqué linen" found by Alex.
It has a fabulous richness which, due to the natural irregularities of the linen, sometimes makes one think of a Japanese material.
The linen weaving is quite original and clearly shows Albini's expertise in creating new textures, despite the material being difficult to work with.
Except that it was a subject that took us by surprise, because it was very complicated to work with correctly.
In fact, her attitude in front of the workshop machines surprised everyone, including the seamstresses. Her natural nervousness posed some problems at first, but through prototypes, the workshop managed to tame this material once and for all .
Under this pretty sea of micro-patterns "quilted" hides a fabric that is difficult to tame!
But this was not without sacrifices, so one day we received a terrible phone call from Luis (#suspense), the manager of the Portuguese workshop:
I'm sorry Alexandre, but on the two linen fabrics you have chosen, it is impossible to make the reinforcement swallows in industrial quantities. The way the materials react on such small manipulated surfaces makes the operation impossible. We can do it for prototypes, but on a production of several hundred pieces, we will lose far too much time...
When Alex came to talk to me about it, it was painful for me. After much discussion, I had to resign myself with a heavy heart to giving up our backup swallows.
"Don't worry Benoît, I promise we'll put a really strong reinforcement point there ," Alex comforted me.
"But it's not the same! It's not as pretty a finish as a reinforcement swallow," I exclaimed!
"Listen, it's not the same, but it's just as strong. And in return, we have two splendid linen fabrics, which are really different from what we see elsewhere, especially compared to simple plain linens," Alexandre reassured me.
“May the gods of textiles and clothing hear you,” I concluded.
"Everything will be fine with the reinforcement point." - Alexander -
Reminder of the benefits of flax
Linen allows you to go on vacation early!
When we first made our linen shirts, I spent a lot of time discussing the little-known benefits of linen. And fortunately, nothing has changed since then .
For those in a hurry, here are some useful reminders:
- Linen has the property of absorbing moisture quickly : it dries very quickly, unlike cotton, and effectively wicks away perspiration . Hence this very characteristic feeling of freshness .
- It is an extremely resistant fiber (again, we see it very well in the Masters of Linen video), which makes it impossible to fluff . And among the properties that we ignore, it is also an anti-allergic fiber and not very conducive to bacterial development. You will agree, it is rather practical in case of summer sweating.
- Finally, unlike cotton, flax cultivation is very eco-responsible : there is no waste, everything is recycled and above all, it is a plant that only needs natural irrigation (rain!). No water waste here, not to mention that flax cultivation is very good for the soil.
On this occasion, the CELC (European Flax and Hemp Confederation) has produced a magnificent documentary on flax cultivation . I will let you discover it in detail…
Normandy is a region with a particular climate: its proximity to the ocean allows for an alternation between rain, sun and wind. And that's good, because that's exactly what flax likes.
The cut
Contrary to what you might think, it is not enough to copy/paste our usual cuts to get the same result.
It doesn't work like that: a shirt is not a computer program .
And with such a different subject, you have to start from scratch.
You have no idea how complicated it was to get this cut with this fabric that didn't hold up in the machines!
So no, it is not the cut of the Albiate or Maruwa chambray shirt , nor even a Florian cut. It is indeed a different cut, only intended for these two material references.
And the same back cut, very difficult to work with too.
Rest assured!
No major upheavals, it's very very very close to our current cuts (I remind you that we test our new cuts on a good ten people each time ).
However, those who swear by measuring to the nearest centimetre with their measuring guide risk being disoriented, if only by the difficulty of taking measurements of a linen shirt lying flat.
Having a consistent cut on two models, with two linen references, was a long-term task.
Finally, for those hoping to one day find a linen shirt as fitted as our Albiate chambray shirt, it is simply impossible.
It would be very uncomfortable because linen does not have the elasticity of cotton when it is close to the body, so it is mandatory to have more space.
How to wear linen shirts?
Blue shirt and blazer, gray jeans and derby. This is the kind of outfit you already know very well! To make a difference and personalize your look, play on the accessories, they are there for that. On these colors, you can afford almost the pocket square of your choice, where a braided belt lends itself well to a summer context. ( BonneGueule blazer , Pochette Square pocket square, BonneGueule jeans , SuitSupply belt, Septième Largeur derby)
When you go for a walk, just take off the jacket and take out the shirt, we have designed its length so that it can be worn formally as well as casually. Even with more relaxation, the margin of error remains almost zero.
We say hello to Cyril, one of the BonneGueule readers from Menton who got into the shooting game! His look is a variation with desert boots. This time, the “casual chic” cursor is closer to casual. (Jimmy Fairly glasses, BonneGueule jeans , Lonesome Details desert boots)
Even if sneakers will always find their place easily! (Jimmy Fairly glasses, BonneGueule jeans , BonneGueule x Buttero sneakers)
To enhance a simple outfit, a scarf is perfect. I was talking about accessories earlier, it's precisely a category that we don't often think about. However, it allows us to easily convey influences: small elegant patterns, mottled material in an adventurer's style, oriental prints... The offer is plentiful, I can only advise you to take a look. And once again, I take this opportunity to thank Cyril for his availability and his good humor! (Scarf Editions MR, BonneGueule jeans , Puma sneakers)
You couldn't imagine Luca going south without his trusty "pantalone bianchi"? Unsurprisingly, the combination works: with white pants, a blue top often turns out to be the best option, or at least the least risky. Be careful with the cut, however, it must be impeccable at the risk of seeing the color accentuate the defects. If he opts for Vans, leather shoes, like derbies or monk shoes for the Italian side, are quite possible. (Jimmy Fairly glasses, DeFursac pants, Vans sneakers)
By opting for a suede bomber jacket, Luca breaks the very “marina” dimension of his look. The result is less connoted but remains coherent. Camel fits well in the middle of blue and white but not only that, it is a very versatile color that we underestimate. Halfway between beige and brown, it can replace them in most cases. (Vicomte A. bomber jacket, DeFursac pants, Vans sneakers)
If you are apprehensive about wearing white pants, you can stick to the summer pants par excellence: beige chinos. Here again, it is the shoes you choose that will give your look its final dynamic. And since we are on vacation here, it will be sneakers and white canvas tote bags 😉 (Louis Purple Chinos, Vans sneakers, Almare tote bags)
Let's move on to more streetwear influences, mainly crystallized by the bomber jacket. Where Luca's nubuck model offered a more elegant, more "mature" look, the cotton of this one places it in a more urban context. This idea is reinforced by the choice of full white low-top sneakers. Besides, there is no particular difficulty so have fun. (Maison Standards bomber jacket, BonneGueule jeans , National Standard sneakers)
Geoffrey swears by his Maharishi pants! The shirt goes well with them, we find the hyper versatile aspect of the piece. The high-top sneakers finish the look on a more spontaneous note, you don't necessarily need more for a successful look. ( Maharishi pants , BonneGueule x National Standard sneakers )
With a smooth texture like a chino, the shirt's texture is instantly highlighted. The red sneakers, among soft shades on the other pieces, wake up the outfit. It's also a good way to break up a look that would be preppy with other shoes. (Chino Maharishi, Nike sneakers)
Let's go to Japan! Jokes aside, the gray shirt/pants combo is neutral enough to complement it with a jacket with a strong stylistic bias. Here, Luca goes for a denim jacket with a Mao collar, reminding us of Japanese workwear (yes, I know Mao was Chinese). Without being complicated to wear, it has the advantage of giving off a lot of character. This is a good gateway to strong first pieces, perfectly balanced between design and ease of wear. (Hollington jacket - test to come, New Standard Edition pants, Adidas sneakers)
The shirt, despite its pattern, can be worn with pants that also have one. Remember, you can combine two different patterns as long as the shapes and sizes are distinct. Also, trust yourself, you will be the first to notice if you look like a Rubix Cube.
Finally, you can of course wear the shirt with a double-breasted blazer. A pale gray model is ideal for summer: in addition to being bright, it creates a link between light and darker pieces. If you want a more elegant look, replace the jeans with chinos or dress pants and you're done. (Ly Adams blazer, BonneGueule jeans , Septième Largeur derby)
How to choose your linen shirt size?
Please note , there may be a difference in sizing due to this quilted material, which is both original and artisanal, and therefore a little unpredictable in the workshop! (sorry)
Sky blue linen shirt
The sizing is very classic, just take your usual size !
Example: If you are used to taking S here or elsewhere, then stick with S.
Dark blue linen shirt (piqué effect)
You should take a size above your usual size (I insist on this point!) .
Example : If you are used to taking S here or elsewhere, then you will have to take M !
How to get patterned linen shirts?
Linen shirts are now available here for the pique (dark) blue and here for the textured (light) blue .
