A much more airy fabric than poplin, linen also manages body moisture much better.
Besides, as I write these lines, it is very hot (close to 30°C) and I am very happy to wear one of the models! I avoid the "soaked shirt" effect since linen dries and airs very quickly.
I'm not going to lie to you, I was a little worried about our first linen shirts, because it's a material that is not at all easy to work with. But thanks to Alexandre's work, we were able to release two linen shirts last year , exactly as I imagined them. You also gave them a warm welcome, it was even their first linen shirt for some.
It is therefore quite logical that we continued down this path, because I feel a real dissatisfaction with linen shirts on the current market: lack of variety, failure to take into account the "hand" of linen, and cuts that are too loose .
For this 2016 Linen Edition , we have gone even further in the chosen fabrics with - call me if you see it elsewhere - linen with relief and micro-patterned patterns :).
Last thing, both fabrics are Masters of Linen certified!
A linen with textured diamond patterns
Imagine my surprise when I touched this linen for the first time.
First favorite: a linen fabric with relief patterns , I had never seen that before. Albini showed very good taste with diamonds having 4 small white dots at each corner.
A neutral blue base, but a unique pattern, this is Albini's creativity.
I loved this dressy side of the pattern on the casualness of linen .
This is exactly what I'm looking for, it adds variety to an outfit. “With white pants and a colorful unstructured blazer, the result will be perfect,” I thought in my head when I touched this atypical fabric for the first time.
The textures of the linen and pattern give character.
A “piqué” effect linen with micro-patterns
The second shirt is cut from linen with micro-patterns which slightly recall the appearance of a polo shirt , hence the nickname "piqué linen" found by Alex.
It has a fabulous richness which, through the natural irregularities of linen, is sometimes reminiscent of a Japanese material.
The weaving of linen is rather original and clearly shows Albini's know-how to create new textures, despite a difficult material to work with.
Except that it was a material that took us by surprise, because it was very complicated to work correctly.
Indeed, its performance in front of the machines in the workshop surprised everyone, including the seamstresses. His natural nervousness
Under this pretty sea of “stitched” micro-patterns hides a fabric that is difficult to tame!
But this did not happen without sacrifices, so much so that one day we received a terrible phone call from Luis (#suspense), the manager of the Portuguese workshop:
I'm sorry Alexandre but, on the two linen fabrics you chose, it is impossible to make the reinforcement swallows in industrial quantities. The way materials react on such small manipulated surfaces makes the operation impossible. We can do it for prototypes, but on a production of several hundred parts, we will waste too much time...
When Alex came to talk to me about it, it was painful for me. After much discussion, I had to resign myself with death in my soul to giving up our reinforcement swallows.
“Don’t worry Benoît, I promise you that we will put a very strong reinforcement point there ,” Alex comforted me.
“But it’s not the same! It’s not as pretty a finish as a reinforcement swallow,” I exclaimed!
"Look, it's not the same, but it's just as solid. And in return, we have two splendid linen fabrics, which really change from what you can see elsewhere, especially compared to very simple plain linens ", Alexandre reassured me."
“May the gods of textiles and tailoring hear you,” I concluded.”
“Everything will be fine with the reinforcement point.” - Alexander -
Reminder of the benefits of linen
Linen allows you to go on vacation early!
When we made our first linen shirts, I spent a long time discussing the little-known benefits of linen. And fortunately, nothing has changed since then .
For those in a hurry, here are some useful reminders:
- Linen has the property of quickly absorbing moisture : it dries very quickly, unlike cotton and wicks away perspiration effectively . Hence this very characteristic feeling of freshness .
- It is an extremely strong fiber (again, we see this very clearly in the Masters of Linen video), which makes it impossible to fluff . And among the properties that we ignore, it is also an anti-allergic fiber and not conducive to bacterial development. You will agree, it is rather practical in case of summer sweating.
- Finally, unlike cotton, the cultivation of linen is very eco-responsible : there is no waste, everything is recycled and above all, it is a plant that only needs natural irrigation (rain!) . No waste of water here, not to mention that growing flax is very good for the soil.
On this occasion, the CELC (European Linen and Hemp Confederation) produced a magnificent documentary on flax cultivation . I'll let you discover it in detail...
Normandy is a region with a particular climate: its proximity to the ocean allows an alternation between rain, sun and wind. And that’s good, that’s exactly what linen likes.
The cup
Contrary to what you might think, it is not enough to copy/paste our usual cuts to have the same result.
It doesn't work like that: a shirt is not a computer program .
And on such a different material, you have to start from scratch.
You can't imagine how complicated it was to get this cut with this fabric that didn't stay in place in the machines!
So no, it's not the cut of the Albiate or Maruwa chambray shirt , nor even a Florian cut. This is indeed a different cut, only intended for these two material references.
And the same back cut, very difficult to work with too.
Rest assured !
No major upheavals, it's very, very close to our current cuts (I remind you that we test our new cuts on a good ten people each time ).
Those who only rely on their measuring guide to the nearest centimeter, however, risk being disoriented, if only by the difficulty of measuring a linen shirt flat.
Having a consistent cut on two models, with two linen references, was a long-term task.
Finally, to those who hope to one day find a linen shirt as fitted as our Albiate chambray shirt, it's simply impossible.
It would be very uncomfortable because linen does not have the elasticity of cotton when it is close to the body, so more space is mandatory.
How to wear linen shirts?
Blue shirt and blazer, gray jeans and derby. This is the kind of outfit you already know very well! To make a difference and personalize your look, play with accessories, that’s what they’re there for. On these colors, you can pretty much afford the clutch of your choice, where a braided belt lends itself well to a summer context. ( BonneGueule blazer , Pochette Square clutch, BonneGueule jeans , SuitSupply belt, Septième Width derby)
When you're walking around, simply take off the jacket and take out the shirt, we've designed its length so that it can be worn formal or casual. Even with more relaxation, the margin for error remains almost zero.
We say hello to Cyril, one of the BonneGueule readers from Menton who got involved in the shooting game! Her look is a variation with desert boots. For now, the “casual chic” slider is closer to casual. (Jimmy Fairly glasses, BonneGueule jeans , Lonesome Details desert boots)
Even if sneakers will always find their place easily! (Jimmy Fairly glasses, BonneGueule jeans , BonneGueule x Buttero sneakers)
To enhance a simple outfit, a scarf does the job perfectly. I was talking to you about accessories earlier, it's precisely a category that we don't often think about. However, it makes it easy to convey influences: small elegant patterns, mottled adventurer-style material, oriental prints... The offer is plentiful, I can only advise you to take a look. And once again, I would like to take this opportunity to thank Cyril for his availability and good humor! (Editions MR scarf, BonneGueule jeans , Puma sneakers)
You couldn't imagine Luca going south without his trusty “pantalone bianchi”? Unsurprisingly, the combination works: with white pants, a blue top often turns out to be the best option, at least the least risky. Be careful with the cut, however, it must be impeccable otherwise the color will accentuate the defects. If he opts for Vans, leather shoes, like derbies or monks for the Italian side, are entirely possible. (Jimmy Fairly glasses, DeFursac pants, Vans sneakers)
By turning to a suede bomber, Luca breaks the very “marina” dimension of his look. The result is less pronounced but remains coherent. Camel fits well in the middle of blue and white but not only that, it is a very versatile color that we underestimate. Halfway between beige and brown, it can replace it in most cases. (Vicomte A. bomber jacket, DeFursac pants, Vans sneakers)
If you are afraid of wearing white pants, you can stick with the ultimate summer pants: beige chinos. Here again, it is the shoes you choose that will give your look its final dynamic. And since we're on vacation here, it will be sneakers and white canvas totes 😉 (Louis Purple chinos, Vans sneakers, Almare totes)
Let's return to more streetwear influences, mainly crystallized by the bomber jacket. Where Luca's nubuck model offered a more elegant, more “mature” look, the cotton of this one places it in a more urban context. This idea is reinforced by the choice of full white low sneakers. Besides, there is no particular difficulty so have fun. (Maison Standards bomber jacket, BonneGueule jeans , National Standard sneakers)
Geoffrey swears by his Maharishi pants! The shirt goes easily with it, we find the hyper versatile aspect of the piece. High-top sneakers finish the look on a more spontaneous note, there is not necessarily a need for more for a successful look. ( Maharishi pants , BonneGueule x National Standard sneakers )
With a smooth texture like that of chinos, that of the shirt is instantly highlighted. The red sneakers, amid soft shades on the other pieces, liven up the outfit. It's also a good way to break up a look that would be preppy with other shoes. (Maharishi chinos, Nike sneakers)
Head to Japan! Jokes aside, the gray shirt/pants combo is neutral enough to complement it with a jacket with a strong stylistic bias. Here, Luca goes for a denim jacket with a Mao collar, reminding us of Japanese workwear (yes, I know Mao was Chinese). Without being complicated to wear, it has the advantage of exuding great character. This constitutes a good gateway to strong first pieces, perfectly balanced between design and ease of wear. (Hollington jacket - test to come, New Standard Edition pants, Adidas sneakers)
The shirt, despite its pattern, can be worn with pants which also have it. Remember, you can combine two different patterns as long as the shapes and sizes are distinct. Also trust yourself, you will be the first to notice if you look like a Rubix Cube.
Finally, you can of course wear the shirt with a double-breasted blazer. A pale gray model is ideal for summer: in addition to being bright, it links light rooms with darker ones. If you want a more elegant look, replace the jeans with chinos or dress pants and that's it. (Ly Adams blazer, BonneGueule jeans , Septième Width derby)
How to choose your linen shirt size?
Be careful , difference in sizing due to this quilted material as original as it is artisanal, and therefore a little unpredictable in the workshop! (Sorry)
Sky blue linen shirt
The sizing is very classic, just take your usual size !
Example: If you are used to taking S with us or elsewhere, then stick to S.
Dark blue linen shirt (pique effect)
You must take a size larger than your usual size (I insist on this point!) .
Example : If you are used to taking S with us or elsewhere, then you will have to take M !
How to get patterned linen shirts?
Linen shirts are now available here in pique (dark) blue and here in textured (light) blue .
