The idea for this shirt was born, as is often the case, from dissatisfaction .
I couldn't find well-cut linen shirts in ready-to-wear stores. Most of the time, the collars are soft and sagging, and the cuts are loose, with dropped shoulders.
In short, the relaxation and summer side of linen is taken at face value. If these shirts can obviously find their place in a casual outfit, it quickly becomes complicated as soon as you want to place them in a more dressy outfit .
So we wanted to offer another way: a perfectly cut linen shirt , as stylish with chinos as with a suit.
If this photo reminds you of summer and light blazers, that's normal.
At last summer's Pitti Uomo (yes, it's an event that influenced me a lot), I immediately noticed how talented Italians are in integrating linen shirts into their formal outfits.
This contrast in style - formal clothing with summery material - is very interesting and little exploited in France.
It is with astonishing ease that Italians wear linen shirts in their formal outfits.
We therefore chose linen from Albini (the same Italian weaver as for our Dobby shirt ). Grown in France and woven in Italy. And this linen has a very special history, since it is certified “Master of Linen” (explanations below!).
Linen: a fiber with little-known properties
At the beginning of my thoughts on the linen shirt, I just thought "linen is a good material for summer" . I admit that my level of knowledge was not the highest, especially for a clothing and material enthusiast like me...
And yet, as my research progressed, I realized that this material has much more to tell than we might think .
For example, did you know that growing flax requires a lot of know-how, and requires 5 times more labor than growing wheat? Or that French linen is a major reference in the world ( 75% of global production )?
So before showing you the two shirts in detail, a few words about linen, a material which contains many surprises...
A crashing wave of linen!
What is the “CELC Master of Linen”?
Above all, you should know that flax cultivation is well promoted in Europe, in particular thanks to a special organization: the CELC.
The European Flax and Hemp Confederation (CELC) is the only European agro-industrial organization bringing together and federating all stages of production and processing of flax and hemp. No, it has nothing to do with the Star Wars Trade Federation !
And the least we can say is that the CELC is very educational in its explanations on linen . They notably produced this very beautiful video, a hymn to the culture and use of linen:
This little documentary, very well done, is meticulous in terms of production. Above all, it is full of mini interviews with people who are passionate about linen, and dedicated to making quality linen (in fact, they explain very well what quality linen is). You will also have an overview of the operations to have a beautiful thread; you'll see, it's quite technical. Not to be missed if you are at all curious about what you wear.
As for the Master of Linen label, it is a registered trademark certifying 100% Made in Europe: the CELC guarantees the European traceability of linen, from the plant to the thread, and from the thread to the fabric. In other words, the linen in our shirt was grown (in France), harvested, and woven in Europe.
This is not simple economic protectionism. Indeed, European linen (particularly Norman linen) has real added value that cannot be outsourced.
Why is Normandy linen so special?
Well, quite simply thanks to the climate and the quality of the soil !
Normandy is a region with a particular climate : its proximity to the ocean allows an alternation between rain, sun and wind. And that’s good, that’s exactly what linen likes. These lands have soil rich in nutrients for the plant. In short, it’s a healthy and balanced diet for our little flaxseed.
In Normandy, you will find large expanses of flax fields, thanks to the climate which is particularly favorable to its cultivation.
Thanks to its particular climatic conditions and the know-how of its flax growers, Normandy remains the preferred production area for this crop, which represents 60% of French production and 45% of processed European production . Normandy, first in quality linen 😉
Recreating the conditions for such alchemy elsewhere on the planet proves impossible (soil + climate + know-how). You can grow flax elsewhere, but it will be difficult to have the same fineness and strength of thread (this is very well explained in the video).
The benefits of Albini linen
Linen has the property of quickly absorbing moisture. And when it's hot, it also dries very quickly, unlike cotton. This power of absorption, combined with rapid drying, means that linen effectively wicks away perspiration when it is hot, hence this very characteristic feeling of freshness and comfort.
But where linen is little known is that it also has thermoregulatory properties , particularly during cooler temperatures, where it retains heat better than cotton...
It is also a strong fiber (again, we see this very clearly in the Master of Linen video), which makes it impossible to fluff . And among the properties that we ignore, it is also an anti-allergic fiber and not conducive to bacterial development. You will agree, it is rather practical in case of summer sweating.
Going from flax flower to thread requires, as I told you, great know-how, but it gives beautiful images!
Some claim that linen fabric helps reduce muscle tension, but I have not been able to find the source of this study, except that linen bed linen is very popular for this reason :)
Finally, a quick word on the ecology of linen, which I did not suspect of being so eco-friendly . Indeed, it is 100% biodegradable, it produces zero waste (everything is reused in the linen) , zero irrigation necessary (otherwise natural with rainwater).
You can even build your house with linen, but not sure if you can add selvedge edging.
Its cultivation uses very few products and it even cleans the soil! With such advantages, it is therefore not surprising that it is widely supported and encouraged through the CELC.
After this (long) explanation about linen, let's now see our two new shirts in detail.
Linen shirts: two patterns
We chose two designs because, as usual, Geoffrey and I couldn't agree (even though I know it's my choice that will be the best seller ;)).
Both fabrics come from Albini and, as I mentioned, the linen in our shirts is 100% European , from the flax seed to the final fabric!
A linen shirt with fine sky blue stripes (Benoît)
Close to the material! We took care to choose pale blue stripes to transport you on vacation.
The first is a pattern with pale blue stripes , very easy to wear. It fits easily with dressy pieces.
These are two dyed threads (one white and one pale blue) which intersect: there are delicate white dots on the stripes, because they are not printed on the fabric. This has the advantage of making the color last better.
Jérémy, visibly in a hurry to get out of the frame, gives a nice overview of the cut.
This shirt combines the elegance of the pattern, and the relaxation of the material and the cut . It's the ideal "all-terrain" shirt when the climate warms up.
Luca, a keen lover of Italian style, insists on the fact that the fine blue striped shirt is a classic in an Italian men's wardrobe (along with the white or blue shirt).
It's funny that if you look at it from a few feet away, you'll think you're seeing a very pale blue shirt (or off-white, if you like long debates about the color of clothes ).
From a distance, the shirt appears uniform. I wanted the pattern to remain subtle, it is only visible if you get closer. On the other hand, Florian's hair is visible from afar.
A linen shirt with micro-houndstooth patterns (Geoffrey)
The fabric chosen by Geoffrey is a micro-houndstooth pattern, which is more casual.
Its particularity is that you have to get a little closer to distinguish it. You have to see it to believe it, but it sure is houndstooth!
Houndstooth on linen gives a very interesting look, which is a change from Oxford or chambray.
This more original pattern, also made up of blue/turquoise and white threads , remains simple to wear in spring.
But as you know, nothing is ever set in stone when it comes to clothing. And to prove it to you, here is a little photo of the houndstooth with a suit:
You see, wearing a linen shirt managed to make me smile and resist the temptation to wear my sunglasses. With our linen shirt, I wear a flannel suit and a Husbands tie. All joking aside, the blue and white tones of the houndstooth pattern blend perfectly with the gray of the suit and the green of the knitted silk tie.
The finishes of our linen shirts
Having been traumatized by soft and wrinkled linen shirt collars, we reinforced the iron-on collar so that it holds very well in all circumstances, whether at the seaside or with a blazer on a terrace when you read the Memoirs on Wave Mechanics by Erwin Schrödinger (or not).
The buttons are made of mother-of-pearl, to reveal beautiful reflections in the setting sun...
In terms of finishes, you will find the usual reinforcing swallow of our shirts, this time with mother-of-pearl buttons mounted on a reinforcing tail.
The famous reinforcement swallow - which you know well by now - with a nice stopping point for more robustness.
For maintenance, the Portuguese workshop has already carried out industrial washing of the shirts to stabilize them: they will not move!
You must wash them at 30°, on a low spin cycle, and definitely do not put them in the dryer. Moreover, given the resistance of the linen fiber, the shirt will become softer and softer as it is washed.
A collar that only awaits your most beautiful blazers.
What size should I choose?
As usual, I will not disappoint you: the shirts fit perfectly normally (if you have already taken S from us on a tee or a shirt, take S on this shirt. The same goes for the other sizes).
Please note when using the measurement guide ( which will be online at the same time as the product page ): this measurement guide is only there in case of doubt or for a very particular body shape. I'm pretty sure 90% of readers don't need it (don't complicate your life).
That said, we remain at your service, always with pleasure, in emails and comments!
Important point about the measurement guide: you will notice that we have not put a shoulder to shoulder measurement, quite simply because the measurement is frankly complicated to take and can mislead you.
I challenge you to measure the same shirt at the shoulders 5 times and get the same measurement each time. The measurement cannot be used to compare it to a shirt that fits you well. It's very simple to explain: depending on how the shirt is placed and placed, you can have variations of the order of a centimeter.
Two shirts we want to adopt
In summary, these patterns will add body to your looks, but will remain discreet enough not to pose a problem in constructing your outfits.
It's a style supplement accessible to everyone (this is not a political slogan).
Not surprisingly, I wear the houndstooth shirt with a suit. The pattern doesn't interfere with its integration into a formal outfit, so much so that I can even add a textured tie without it being polarizing. (Husbands suit, boots and tie, Catherine Michiels bracelets).
When your shirt already has one, avoid patterned ties, or choose them in very different shapes and sizes. Personally, I prefer textured ties, which will add depth to the look. Also note the small Milanese buttonhole on the lapel of the jacket!
Like Geoffrey, you can wear your shirt without a tie. Its collar fits well, and will fit naturally with that of your jacket (Gilles Masson suit, Septième Largeur ankle boots).
Don't hesitate to play with the patterns of the shirt to create subtle reminders. Here, the vertical stripes echo the "window" pattern found on the fabric of the suit. It is also an interesting option for those who are overweight, the verticality visually refining the silhouette. Finally, you have a good overview of how the collar of the shirt sits between two lapels.
Luca and his sense of sprezzatura prove to us that shirts also go well with a mismatched suit. Just stick to easy colors, like here with gray and blue, where the shirt makes the connection. Luca told me that he dressed like this to go out drinking wine with a girl, and that it worked well (Gutteridge blazer, COS pants, Lorenzo Shoes derby).
And without a jacket, it works too!
In the same vein, you can also wear your shirt with a jacket. Like Florian, rely on beige, white and blue, which are the main summer colors for men (unbranded jacket, Gant Rugger tie, Asos tie clip, Pochette Square clutch, BGMD chinos, Septième Width derby).
To add depth to his look, Florian uses a navy blue tie and pocket square, in addition to her hair swag , which contrast with the pale colors of the rest of the pieces. Once again, rely on accessories to personalize your style !
The shape of a safari jacket is similar to that of a blazer, so the combination works just as well, especially in terms of colors. The opening of the collar is also large enough to allow that of the shirt to be placed. We're looking for an urban/summer/casual look that's practical for drinking cocktails (BonneGeule x Aigle safari jacket, WhenIWasSeventeen belt, Gant pants and Piola derby).
Easier and more casual, chinos and a pair of desert boots are enough to wear the shirt. This has an optimal length, allowing it to be worn tucked in or out of the pants. Nothing too complicated, the look is summery and remains consistent (and yes, Jérémy categorically refuses chest hair removal. Uniqlo chinos and Diesel desert boots).
Let's stay casual, with Long wearing his shirt with raw jeans and desert boots. He adds a burgundy cardigan to introduce a touch of brighter color and enhance everything (Bold Boys jeans, Uniqlo cardigan, Clarks desert boots).
Even if Long's Asian modesty prevents him from opening the first button of his shirt, framing it with a burgundy cardigan will highlight the patterns, thanks to the contrast thus created. Also note how the sober color of the shirt calms the brighter color of the cardigan.
Finally, nothing stops you from wearing your shirt in a look with streetwear influences. Luca opted for a bomber jacket (very good option for small body shapes, thanks to its volume), gray jeans and a pair of sneakers. The shirt gives a more dressy dimension to the look, which remains very casual and comfortable (Bomber Gap, Uniqlo jeans, Puma sneakers, and rebellious locks)
The BonneGueule III line is now available!
Now, as you read this article, the collection is available on Atelier BonneGueule :
- The wrinkle-resistant wool mesh blazer Vitale Barberis Canonico BG-3.1
- The two linen shirts with striped and houndstooth patterns BG-3.2
