Disclaimer: Today, we had the pleasure of interviewing Guillaume Bo . Passionate about fashion, and many other things besides, he runs, not a blog, but the Facebook page Men Need More Style . This format allows for very quick and easy consultation of the content. He gives many good tips, comments on lookbooks and gives some advice on assemblies.
I won't say any more, and let you discover this man with a rather atypical background as involved in sartorial culture as in the world of hip-hop.
Can you introduce yourself to BonneGueule readers who don’t know you? I understand that you had an atypical career path…
Atypical, I don't know... It's true that, like cats, I have had - and still have - several lives. I am 44 years old, I now live in the south of France (near Montpellier), after having spent 2 years in Montreal (I also have Canadian nationality), before that New York, and before that again, San Francisco ...
I have also worked in different worlds, but always linked to my passions: music, clothes, or management / communication / marketing. I played football, gave tennis and scratch lessons, also did a lot of radio and TV, photo shoots, etc.
From now on, I devote myself to sartorial via my MNM's page. At the same time, I also have a role as community manager and consultant for a few brands or companies.
Guillaume's sharp style suggests multiple influences.
You have been very active in the rap/hip-hop scene. How could this environment have influenced you in your vision of sartorial style? Are these two truly opposing worlds, which can never cross?
I still follow it, the hip-hop Phat Farm for example (Russel Simmons' brand), which did classic streetwear, but sharp , with pretty polo shirts or cargo pants that looked good. I would say that even in that world, I have always been sober.
Mind you, I also wore Jojo, Timb or caps (I still wear them from time to time, in fact), but I was more the one who was already called "grandpa". I didn't wear jeans, but corduroy, not classic Timberlands, but special models, high-top "boats" in burgundy/green leather and canvas. I always paid close attention to colors and assortments. And then I already happened to mix in a suit, in a cardigan, or in a vest with Ascott.
To come back to your question, they can cross paths, I am proof of that. In a more vintage register, you also have Baron Dxl, or Brooklyn Circus and Armstrong and Wilson in the USA, but it's rather rare. Sean "Puff Daddy" Combs tried a little too...
Another example: that of Little at the beginning of the 90's who, a bit like EPMD , did their concerts in costume. But it was more part of the “I want to do business, I want to be taken seriously” posture, and did not demonstrate real knowledge of clothing.
The group EPMD, pioneer of wearing costumes in the hip-hop world.
This is also normal and legitimate. Hip-hop comes from the streets, its cradle is the Bronx and the US ghettos. The clothing style that went with it was a real revolution in itself, far from the codes specific to Savile Row or Naples.
Today, Jay-Z or Puff, even The Roots , no longer hesitate to wear costumes, because it is also a way of proving that they are "in place", that they have succeeded , and that they are capable of adopting the customs and attributes of the richest.
In new jack hip-hop , or soul/R'n'B , it's already a little bit different. Their stylistic referents eyed Prince , Marvin , James , or funk/jazz and other variants. As a result, New Edition , R Kelly and Jodeci , among others, liked to wear a suit, well dressed. But hey, they are American, so flashy, large, and not always in the best taste...
However, this trend did exist, especially among dancers. Today, Justin Timberlake , Robin Thicke , and even Pharell come partly from this school.
To tell you, one of Justin Timberlake's hits is called "Suit & Tie".
I would also like to pick up on your Montreal/American influences… What have you kept from their conception of style?
Montreal is very close to stylistic no man's land , so I won't talk about it much, except to say that some are working to change all that (but it's not easy). Dressing well is almost suspect there, but things are changing little by little...
As for NY, Philadelphia or SF, it's all or nothing. You see a guy and his friends who are really trying - you at least feel that the desire is there - and then the next second, you only see vile things. There are still key places, like parties or certain blocks/neighborhoods, where you meet stylish people. In addition, elegance, costumes and accessories are booming in big cities. The youngest, aged 15 to 35, are clearly looking to dress better.
My friend Manolo Costa , in NY, does fabulous work, as does Beckett and Robb in SF. Overall, I now see few major differences between their design and ours. Certain trends, such as bearded men with tattoos or skateboarders with checkered shirts, were born there. So I saw them there first, but hey... Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire were also broadcast across the Atlantic at first, but again, everything now goes much faster, web and cable oblige...
Actor Michael Pitt in Broadwalk Empire, a series already anchored in sartorial culture.
I am much more impressed by the Koreans and the Japanese who now have a real sartorial culture. It sweats in the streets, the brands, the boutiques, the artisans, the creators, it’s impressive! They are light years away from our old Europe and the US.
Now let's return to France: what is your point of view on French style, considering your influences and your tailoring culture?
I don't really believe in a French style for men . For women around the world, the myth of the Parisian persists, but I'm not going to dwell on it: there would also be a LOT to say and correct. So much the better for our luxury industries, but believe me, go see the Italian women in Milan or Florence, and you will understand what I mean...
In short, let's get back to our subject and the style, the elegance of French men. I don't think there really is a French style. However, there is real French know-how, that which Hugo and Dirnelli of Parisian Gentleman defend very well, for example.
We are historically stuck between the two great schools that are the original British and its little Italian sister . Some of our icons have really undermined themselves: I am thinking in particular of Gabin, or of Delon for a period, Noiret, Montand or even Rossi.
His style was perhaps not typically French, but Yves Montand's elegance seduced many.
But to say that their style was French , I don't think so. They were either very inspired by the English style , or even by the Italian style . They were also the product of their time, which was much more inhabited by "the dressed".
What advice would you give to the French when it comes to clothing?
First, stop trusting your girlfriend or relying on her, out of comfort, conformity, or under the pretext that she has taste. Be careful, nothing misogynistic there! However, 70 to 80% of men are dressed by their partner/woman... When you see the result!
She's your girlfriend, of course you love her, but you have to know how to say "no" sometimes!
More seriously, I would simply say to start considering dressing again as a real pleasure, as a strength and a real plus. This applies to all areas: professional, meetings, self-esteem, relationships with others, and so on.
Then, note that the men's wardrobe is a wonderful breeding ground for culture, stories, anecdotes, codes, customs that enrich a man; while having ramifications in many fields: history, of course, but also art, music, painting or, in a different register, advertising, cinema, literature... and even food !
Finally, and because it is the crux of the matter, learning through all the aforementioned elements to buy better at the lowest price. It is now possible thanks to blogs, sites, your own searches on the web, or by walking in the streets.
I forgot... Find the address of a real good retoucher as quickly as possible.
Personally, where do you dress? How is your wardrobe? Are you the type to have 7 very nice shirts, or 30 more average ones?
Where do I dress?! Wow... it depends, from the 3 Swiss to tailor-made in Korea or Italy! I am also able to go into a women's store in a town, because I saw a scarf or scarf in the window that I like. Sometimes, I happen to really splurge on certain shoes...
Now I also have the advantage of getting a lot of stuff, like recently from Ingram; since you were talking to me about shirts. It's an Italian brand that I really like and they've recently been supplying me with shirts. In absolute terms, I tend to like 7 very nice shirts, or that was the case for a very long time at least.
I'm a bit old school on this, considering that a beautiful garment must last, have a patina, and that this is the strength of truly pretty things. They don't have to be expensive, just pretty. I'm also a bit of a nerd, so I store them carefully. But be careful, I'm not a collector: I wear my clothes or my shoes, but I'm careful about them.
You firmly believe that you can be elegant in any budget range. Can you elaborate?
Yes indeed ! I consider that it is above all a story of cuts, textures and colors/matching. The notions of choice, discipline, and pace also come into play. Do you think that all these nouveau riche, under the pretext that they got their Rolex before the age of 40, are elegant?!
Note how the rigorous double-breasted jacket contrasts with this stunning tie.
Besides, why this preference for the elegant/tailored style (and not for streetwear, or workwear for example)?
Because I consider that the so-called “classic” style is flattering, and that’s the case for everyone when it’s well mastered. It is also a language, an opening, a door to social bonds.
Let me explain. It is always good to go back to basics: real know-how, history, a common heritage; like the codes and rules of this classic wardrobe that I defend on MNM's. They are a foundation on which we can all lean and rest.
We can also evolve it, have fun with it, but this story exists and gives us a real backbone. Furthermore, in my house there continues to be this idea that the clothes make the monk, so I have always cultivated this side... It is a key to many things.
Having experienced it, and still experiencing it, classic but assertive elegance opens doors, and allows us to establish a dialogue with ALL walks of life and all kinds of people.
I also really like the idea that - and this goes back to my point of view on elegance and money - anyone can be beautiful and worthy, as long as they have taste and presence. This is perhaps where my real hip-hop reminiscences persist, the famous mental hold-up dear to IAM...
A simple look, but well done for summer.
You told me that you were very concerned about accessible brands for small budgets.
What are the little-known little gems in this area (shirt, suit and possibly shoes) that you recommend wholeheartedly? (in the same genre as Trashness that you talked about recently)...
There is Herrings or Meermin for shoes, for example. Mistigriff is also a chain of stores to watch closely in France. They often have really interesting brand name items that they don't know much about, like Harmont and Blaine which they sell at ridiculous prices. Still for shirts, Café Coton and their factory stores are good alternatives: you can find shirts for €30/35, and there, it's worth it.
For accessories, think about Altéa or Gran Sasso , GREAT value for money. In France, for pants, take a look at Dany Berd , it's really not bad: €60, from memory, for a Barberis Canonico Super 120s flannel which looks good, it's really good.
However, I am not going to reveal everything to you here, since I have made a point of submitting good deals of this kind on my page quite regularly.
You wear the boater hat very well, an accessory that I don't know at all. What are your tips for wearing it well?
THANKS ! So, first of all, know that all these photos taken at Pitti Uomo 86 ( editor's note: the 86th edition ) in Florence where I am wearing these boaters, also called boaters (two different ones in fact, the first is beige, while the second has a blue edging) are a bit of a coincidence...
Guillaume Bo wearing one of his boater hats, it's not the simplest accessory, but it has its little effect...
I was invited that same morning by Lardini and Wooster to the presentation of their new collection, and that's where these boaters were given to me. So I decided to wear some that day. The shape and color added a little extra, even more personal touch to my outfit of the day. Which proves, since it was so popular, that elegance also comes through small, poorly calculated details, little things that change everything. I'm very fond of hats , I 'm a real addict of berets, fedoras, Borsalino and others.
Coming back to your question, the fundamental principle of wearing a hat is choosing the right size. Quite simply. Far too many men take it too small or too big, so take the time to really look at yourself in the mirror, to feel that it sits well on your temples and forehead. Then, use your second hand to lift it correctly when you put it on. I call it the Sinatra method .
Still on the subject of accessories, I see you wearing very colorful bracelets. Do you have any tips or brands to recommend?
In fact, I always mix and match my bracelets with what I wear, and what I do. If it's business, I keep it very sober, but if it's casual, I have a little fun. For brands, I go for Cabo de Mar or A Cool Gentleman. But I don't hesitate to go to small shops run by Chinese people, or to find them in the markets.
(Note: Guillaume really likes to match these bracelets to his outfit, but there is nothing obligatory about it. Besides, accessories are a good way to personalize your style without the hassle !).
A little nugget of French rap to recommend to BG readers?
Nemir. A “little” guy from Perpignan who has a lot of talent. It's fresh, it's good and varied. Listen to his song “Ailleurs” as an introduction, you’ll see!
A big thank you to Guillaume for his interview! For those who want to go further, he has already written guest articles at Milanese Special Selection:
- an exchange with Fabio , from the blog The Bespoke Dudes (reference English blog on tailor culture)
- an article on lace-up shoes
