If you've been reading me for a while, you know that I hate the cold.
Or rather, I don't like the cold to be a hindrance in my daily life, I don't want it to make me have a bad day (Besides, a year ago, I also devoted a Let's Talk Clothing dedicated to the cold ).
But when I lived in Montreal, I understood that the cold was not inevitable. Out of curiosity, I wondered how mountaineers, soldiers, or even divers protected themselves from the cold in extreme conditions.
I then thought about how to adapt all of this for urban use, because I don't want to make you look like an Arctic Circle sniper or someone attempting to climb Everest (although I do). loves vintage mountaineering clothing).
If we were in the United States, I could almost have called it the CCS_BG for Cold Clothing System _BonneGueule . I'm obviously joking, but in the world of techwear, we like acronyms ( no pun intended ) like this.
So here is my complete guide to resisting the cold and continuing to enjoy the present moment , even if it's 0°C and you have to walk home.
The always elegant Brian Sacawa from the site He Spoke Style , who wears the duffle coat perfectly.
The basis: layering again and again
The key is obviously layering, namely stacking layers of clothing.
I didn't invent anything, I was obviously inspired by the "three layers" system of hikers :
- a first layer against the skin to wick away body moisture, the famous "base layer": generally these are the merino or technical material t-shirts which dry very quickly.
- an intermediate layer which is used to add warmth when it is cold, the “mid layer”. This is where we put “what keeps you warm”: fleeces, downs, and other synthetic insulators.
- and the third layer which protects against rain or snow, breathable and waterproof, the "outer layer": Gore-Tex, NeoShell, eVent, etc. membranes are obviously essential.
The advantage is that it's very "buildable", and by juggling layers, you can not only have rich and varied outfits, but cope with a wide variety of temperatures.
Note that the military has a slightly more sophisticated system, which is based on 7 layers .
But in urban use, without military issues, it's complete overkill: Gore-Tex pants won't be of much use for walking to the next metro station, even less if they are worn with a blazer…
Layering in a dressy style
Even if you have to wear (or you like to wear) the suit, there are lots of solutions to avoid being cold in winter.
Consider cotton flannel shirts which, in addition to adding interesting texture to an outfit, have a " cozy » comforting.
I recommend Howard's , which is having fun exploring cotton flannel on shirt cuts that are truly suited to a dressy setting.
The case for merino wool shirts
There are also 100% merino wool shirts. It's not as soft as cotton, there are fewer possible textures, but there are still significant advantages: wicking away perspiration, quick drying, etc.
Having personally tested it, having a wool shirt provides a little extra in terms of warmth compared to cotton, but it's not night and day either. For example, if you are too hot in a merino shirt, chances are you would have been too hot in a 100% cotton shirt.
Here are the brands that offer wool shirts:
- Proper Clothes , with fabrics from Reda (my #1 recommendation if you want a really dressy shirt)
- Wool & Prince, pioneer in wool shirts (and I find it an endearing brand )
- Libertad Apparel
- Hardvark
- and obviously, Seagale , French pride of techwear.
Yes, yes, it's a 100% merino wool shirt.
Now let's move on to the top "layer", the one you will wear over your shirt.
- wear a cardigan between your shirt and your suit
- wear a thin sweater
- wear a turtleneck (turtleneck + blazer = high class)
When you have a shirt + a fine knit + a blazer + a coat, with all these layers and the air that will be trapped there (not counting the linings of the suit and the coat which add even more layers), the thermometer can go very low.
If this is not enough, you can still gain heat:
- have a winter wool suit, like 300g wool if you really complain about the cold.
- If you're really still cold, put a light sleeveless down jacket between your shirt and your blazer. Be careful, in this configuration, you risk being a little cramped if you have a very fitted suit and/or coat.
Have I ever told you that I like turtlenecks under a blazer?
Really, protecting yourself from the cold when you have a dressy style is really not a problem, believe me.
All that's missing is a pair of shoes with a thick Dainite-type sole (see below) and you'll be fine.
Layering in a casual style
It's almost too easy as there are so many possibilities.
The essential merino t-shirt
The basis, in my opinion, remains the merino t-shirt, incredibly practical, which is very useful when it is cold, especially if you are traveling light .
It's not for nothing that the merino t-shirt has become a permanent fixture in our house , as I can no longer do without this piece in winter.
Here are some specialist brands:
- Seagale obviously
- Loow
- Unbound
- Emyun
- Wool&Prince
- Outlier
- Woolly
- Quor
- Isaora
In the kingdom of sweaters
For the top layer, wool knit reigns supreme.
Whether it's virgin wool or cashmere, I accept everything, as long as it's 100% natural (no acrylic in particular). Afterwards, it's more a question of taste and budget.
Some will like very simple and sober sweaters, while others will like chunky knits, turtleneck or not, with or without cables.
For those who are really starting from scratch, I advise you to invest in two stitches:
- a sweater with zero difficulties to wear: blue or gray
- and a more fun piece: either by a more original color (mustard, rust, green, burgundy, etc.), or by the design (big cardigan, cable, etc.) or both.
Really don't panic if you feel like you're making the mistake of your life by choosing a green sweater instead of a burgundy sweater. And on the contrary, treat yourself to textures and materials.
Texture, wool, and you have a good winter companion.
Here are some brands that I like:
- for small budgets, the French brands Paris Yorker are essential
- Inis Meain , a knitwear brand we have collaborated with in the past, that loves to explore
- SEH Kelly : it's not a brand specializing in "knitwear" basically, but I really like its color choices
- Johnston of Elgins is the Roll's of cashmere, it's expensive... but how beautiful it is!
To go further, I invite you to read our sweater and cardigan tests , as well as our guide to recognizing quality knitwear .
Why workwear is conducive to layering
The workwear style is full of examples of easy-to-do layering:
- Denim shirt + henley
- Sleeveless vest + parka
- jacket type “ fleece » + coat
- etc
For me, the two emblematic pieces of workwear that are very useful for layering are the henley and the overshirt.
About Henley, Jordan wrote a very comprehensive article that I invite you to discover.
Julien, founder of the Jinji boutique, shows how a workwear/vintage outfit can be rich, with a parka and a faded denim shirt worn over a sweatshirt. There are varied colors, the unexpected, texture, in short, I agree:
So, with these pieces, there is no shortage of possibilities. And I'm not talking about the style outdoor » at Patagonia which, by definition, is full of comfortable and warm pieces, to be used in layering in every direction.
Be careful though: too many outdoor pieces in an outfit can quickly give the impression that you are a lost hiker.
Although wearing an Arc'téryx Gore-Tex jacket and Salomon SpeedCross is the height of hype for some.
The Japanese are huge fans of outdoor pieces in their outfits. But for now, it's a very divisive style, and one that will be little understood in France.
So use outdoor pieces very sparingly, and don't hesitate to contrast these synthetic materials with more noble materials like wool.
The last layer: coat or parka?
Obviously, to avoid being cold, a coat or parka is essential. Unsurprisingly, if you have an overall dressy style, and you like to wear a blazer and a shirt tucked into your pants, this is the coat for you.
And if you're used to sneakers, you like Japanese brands and workwear, this is a parka for you.
This kind of outfit speaks to you ( full Nigel Cabourn )? Well, direct parka for you. Otherwise take a coat.
The parka, a safe ally
She bring :
- a casual style
- good protection against rain
- a wide variety of fabrics (technical or not)
- a looser fit that allows you to comfortably wear pieces underneath, without feeling tight
- compatibility with carrying a backpack. No risk of damaging the internal shoulder pad, because there is none.
The Grenfell parka, a piece with great charisma.
The coat (when it is well chosen)
You can choose it because:
- This is great class!
- he draws a very beautiful silhouette
- it may be made up of splendid materials, with lots of textures, patterns, colors
- it's a piece with which you feel elegant, well dressed
- James Bond wears a coat when he is in costume
A beautiful coat transforms an outfit.
Where to find a parka or coat? As Nicolo would say, “both everywhere and nowhere”. Honestly, it's the kind of piece you'd find in any well-designed men's fashion brand, especially those we recommend.
And if not, I invite you to (re)read our guide to recommended brands, in the “coats” section.
Layering recap
To print and watch on very cold days!
If you have a dressy style
First layer:
- cotton flannel shirt
- 100% wool shirt
Second layer:
- fine knit, cardigan or round neck sweater type
- turtleneck sweater (in this case, wearing a formal shirt is obviously complicated, take a classic t-shirt)
Third layer:
- winter wool blazer
- sleeveless down jacket
Fourth layer:
- any coat worthy of the name
- against the rain: consider Norwegian Rain if the budget allows
If you have a casual style
First layer:
- merino wool t-shirt (short or long sleeves)
- henley so very casual style (which can also be in merino wool)
(Between these two layers, you can obviously put all the shirts and/or sweatshirts you want)
Second layer:
- overshirt
- large knit
Third layer:
- sleeveless vest
- work jacket
Fourth layer:
- parka of all kinds
- coats of all kinds
- jackets and bombers
As for pants…
First layer:
- Icebreaker-style leggings (see below)
- Ultra Warm Heattech leggings from Uniqlo on a low budget
Second layer:
- your usual pants/jeans/chinos
Theoretically, for example, it would be possible to have a merino henley outfit + denim shirt + sleeveless vest + parka and normally you will be well protected from the cold.
Which material keeps you warmest?
The woolen cloth
The most elegant, with good thermal qualities: woolen cloth
The simplest option that holds “ hot as it should be » and which makes up the majority of quality outerwear. A material that is not particularly stretchy or waterproof, but which has the advantage of being very beautiful and elegant. And to be very satisfactory in 90% of your urban outings.
Shearling, also called shearling
The legendary shearling from Burberry Prorsum.
Perhaps the natural material that keeps you warmest, it is a real armor against the cold . It's a piece that has a lot of presence and great desirability due to its adventurous side, but you can sometimes get too hot with it.
And it’s an expensive skin, the prices of which rise very quickly. Finally, comfort is sometimes difficult, because the shearling can slightly hinder freedom of movement.
If I had to buy one today, it would probably be from Grailed. I would search it from top to bottom.
The techwear option: synthetic insulators
The Climashield bomber jacket from Acronym.
Synthetic insulation or down? It's a debate as old as time among hikers. For my part, for urban use, I have a preference for synthetic insulation, particularly for questions of animal welfare, compressibility, and perspiration management.
Whether at Primaloft, but also Polartec or Climashield (the two that we use at BonneGueule), today, there are high-performance insulators with cozy warmth. I invite you to (re)read Michel's article on the winner of the synthetic vs. down match .
Down
The warmest material, but I still prefer synthetic insulation.
Even if the performance of synthetic insulators is always improving, the insulating power of down remains exceptional.
But it is a material which is not without its drawbacks. As usual, the question of animal welfare always arises, where associations regularly report cases of geese being plucked alive, even for major brands.
It is also an insulator that does not tolerate being wet and does not like being compressed.
It is for this reason that I will not recommend specific brands to you, although in full transparency, I owned a Canada Goose in 2011 during my stay in Montreal. And that I found nothing to complain about in the performance of the product. Except that at the time, I didn't have the same awareness.
If I had to buy some again today, I would not hesitate to spend hours on the traceability of the down, to contact the brand, to ask for more details, etc.
The delicate case of fur: effective, but morally indefensible
Certainly, it keeps you warm, the performance is great, but it's now impossible for me to recommend fur clothing.
Now let's move on to fur, surely a material that you will never wear and that's a good thing. On the other hand, perhaps you are curious about its thermal properties.
I will therefore give you my opinion as an indication, like a doctor who would teach his students the effects of a drug, without pushing them to consume it.
It's probably the most pleasant material in winter, because it keeps you warm, it can remain flexible and be worn with very large thermal amplitudes, perhaps more than any other material, to an incredible extent. An outing at -5°C followed by a stroll in a store at 20°C? No problem with the fur.
The heat that emanates from it is very cozy, very “soft”.
But I'm telling you nothing: the moral price to pay is very heavy.
So yes, a fur garment easily exceeds €1000 or €2000, but it is above all the animal cause which is totally sacrificed for sartorial desires. Even more so when they are furs that do not come from Northern Europe.
The situation becomes more dramatic and senseless when these animals are only raised for their fur and their meat is not even consumed. This is not the kind of practice I want to encourage.
Today, given the numerous scandals surrounding this material, it is out of the question to recommend that you purchase fur clothing, despite its undeniable thermal qualities.
And the pants?
For a long time I had cold legs in winter in jeans.
It's such a shame, because there's nothing easier than spending a winter with warm legs.
Case #1: you want to continue wearing your usual jeans and chinos
It's simple: just wear technical leggings under your jeans. If the word “ leggings » scares you and makes you insecure about your masculinity, don’t make a fuss of me, and replace it with the word “ long boxers ". And if you're really fussy, call it " long john », a name that comes to us from workwear.
Personally, I successfully tried leggings from Icebreaker (there is an equivalent from Smartwool), and I am considering trying Ultra Warm from Uniqlo, which sells palettes of technical underwear with their Heattech range.
Uniqlo Ultra Warm: nice but not miraculous. I talk about it in my selection of articles on travel .
The most courageous can also venture into Damart's long johns range (perhaps the only time I will mention this brand on BonneGueule).
If you really, really, really have cold weather issues, I encourage you to look for leggings with Polartec materials such as Power Wool, Power Grid or Power Stretch. This is easily found from established outdoor brands.
For example, for those who want the thrill of Made in USA techwear, Beyond Clothing and Triple Aught Design both offer long boxers in Power Wool.
Power Wool long johns from Beyond Clothing , your best friend against the cold.
Really, I highly recommend (if I may say so) that you acquire a pair of long boxers in your winter wardrobe, you will see that it is day and night. It's helped me out so many times that I can't do without it anymore...
The geekiest among you will not hesitate to read the very comprehensive Wirecutter article on the subject of “ thermal underwear ". Yes, read it, I learned lots of things.
Case #2: you want to invest in fall/winter pants
As the solution “ usual pants + thermal leggings » is simple and inexpensive, as wool winter pants allow you to have access to very beautiful materials, with much more character than 100% cotton pants.
And it's really the kind of piece that will make you love winter.
To wear, compared to the solution “ leggings ", it's very pleasant because there is only one layer and the thermal insulation of such pants is very pleasant.
It's time to treat yourself to wool pants. Model from Dapper .
And obviously, if you are traveling in very cold countries (Northern Europe in winter), add leggings under your wool pants, and you will never be cold again.
So, what are the possible solutions for wool pants in winter?
At BonneGueule, I have been a fan of gray wool pants for years, as they are so practical and versatile.
Don't be fooled by the shoes in the photo: these types of pants can be worn with more casual outfits without problems.
Obviously, wool flannel is preferred. With a more formal outfit, its ability to be well integrated into it is indisputable: a blazer, a shirt, flannel pants and a nice pair of shoes, and you don't need to do more.
But contrary to what one might believe, flannel pants can easily find their place in more casual outfits, such as with sneakers or a sweatshirt.
If you've been reading us for several years, you definitely have one. And if not, you're missing out on a great winter companion.
Next come the more “wool” fabrics. exotic » like whipcord or cavalry twill. Purists will tear their hair out reading this, but I'll keep it simple: it's like denim in construction except it's wool and not indigo cotton.
That's whipcord, a fabric that has fallen into disuse despite its undeniable qualities.
Basically, these materials were created for outdoor activities, such as horse riding: so it had to be durable and have natural and mechanical stretch.
Unfortunately, it is a type of material that is not easy to find commercially, despite its real qualities and a pretty, slightly mottled appearance.
On the other hand, a major problem arises with wool pants: as soon as you want something more exclusive, with an unusual color, the prices rise very quickly, with the Rota brand for example.
Trousers from Rota: they're beautiful, there are lots of nice finishes, they're made in Italy, but they cost more than €400.
What about cotton pants?
Yes yes, we can continue to wear them.
Obviously, Japanese selvedges are more than ever suitable for this season. From 13-14 oz, you have a very serious candidate against winter, in addition to the " leggings solution ". Naked and Famous, every winter, often has fun releasing jeans suitable for winter.
We've talked so much about jeans on BonneGueule that I'm just going to point you to a few articles:
Chinos from the Left Field brand 13 oz. Needless to say, it's thick.
Velvet has also made a comeback in recent years. It's a little warmer than a classic cotton and the feeling is more " cozy ".
Among lovers of sartorial art, it is a piece that can be easily integrated into outfits with a blazer and beautiful shoes.
NN07 offers velvet pants in a wide variety of colors.
On a (very) personal level, I really like the velvet pants from the Danish brand NNO7, because their cut allows them to be worn with more casual outfits.
More common, you have cotton moleskin, with a soft feel and thick cotton.
What about shoes in winter?
Having cold feet, I grant you, is frankly painful. But fortunately, there are plenty of possible solutions.
What is the risk of wearing shoes with soles that are too thin?
When you're going to walk on icy ground, the coldness of the ground is quickly confronted with the heat of your foot while moving and sweating.
And what happens when very cold meets very hot? It condenses! Or more precisely, the natural perspiration of your feet begins to condense, your socks gradually become damp, become colder and colder and your feet are frozen.
The famous Crocket and Jones, “Islay” model.
The challenge of a pair of winter shoes is to insulate your feet from the cold ground thanks to a thicker sole than usual. There are four that come up often:
- the Dainite type sole that we come across almost everywhere
- the commando sole, much easier to wear in a dressy look than you might think
- the crepe sole
- and Vibram soles
No particular difficulty finding these soles, a somewhat serious brand offers this type of sole for winter. And obviously, this is the norm among English brands.
Grenson was one of the first brands to extensively use Vibram soles on dress shoes.
Also think about workwear, because if there are shoes made to be resistant to the cold and the elements, they are shoes from brands like Red Wings or Wolverine. They either have thick soles, or Vibram, or both.
Personal experience: me and my Red Wing Iron Rangers in the snow.
Last year I spent three days in a snowy village and I didn't have mountain shoes. So I greased my Red Wings again before leaving, I put on merino wool socks, and I walked in the snow (it was in town or at the bottom of the slopes, not in the high mountains) .
Red Wings in the snow: they can help if you have nothing else.
The solution was satisfactory, although after a while the leather became damp from being in contact with the snow. But it is a solution which remains largely bearable and which helps out well.
Today, if I could do it again, I would take my Red Wings again. But I would also bring my pair of Adidas Gore-Tex to alternate in order to let a pair dry properly. And I wouldn't hesitate to grease my Red Wings again every day.
Danners too, with its Gore-Tex models, should be considered if you are sensitive to made in the USA. Still on the subject of Gore-Tex shoes (which I recommend having a pair), I spoke at length on the subject in my January 2019 clothing selection.
Unless you live in a country with very harsh winters, investing in very warm shoes like Sorel boots just for winter is overkill, especially in Paris. To put it simply: your feet will be too hot, and your day will be painful.
Despite all the respect I have for the reliability of Sorel shoes and for the entrepreneurial adventure, it is total overkill in France.
As for sneakers, since they often have a thick rubber sole, they are naturally insulating. Your basic sneakers will therefore be completely wearable in winter. And if your feet are a little cold, put on warmer socks.
As for socks?
On the other hand, on the socks side, there is optimization to be found.
I really like socks from SmartWool, Wool&Prince and I fell in love with Sympa Bonnard .
That said, you may still have cold feet with the thickest socks. For what ? Because sweat from the feet can have difficulty wicking away despite wearing wool socks, humidity accumulates, and this is what will cool your feet.
More precisely, it is your perspiration, trapped in your socks, which will “suck” the heat from your feet. This is why wet feet are the dread of hikers in winter.
But in the case of urban use, where you are most of the time in heated places, it is less painful. In general, when walking in a building with heating, your foot warms up and the sweat from your socks dries little by little.
For sub-zero temperatures, if you're tired of having cold feet — even with wool socks — it's not stupid to switch to more technical socks.
For days at -30°C, take Wiggy's Lamilite socks . And if like me, you love Power Stretch, know that it exists in socks . Polartec socks are also a very good “anti-cold feet” solution.
The question of gloves
It is not possible to spend a winter without gloves, that much is clear.
On fine leather, you should not hesitate to take them a little tight because the leather will relax.
For my part, I really like the collaborations between Norse Projects and Hestra. Be careful, the cut of these gloves is quite rustic, it has nothing to do with a fine fitted leather glove, but they hold up well over time and can be worn over a wide range of temperatures.
Norse Projects x Hestra: it's rustic, but it's deer leather with Primaloft, it keeps you warm!
And I fell in love with Lavabre Cadet, in the purest tradition of French glovemaking. It's quite simple: when you try on such a high-end glove, your hand looks better with it than without it! So there is a big X Factor ”, but it’s a certain budget.
Lavabre Cadet Gloves distributed on Beige Habilleur : the flagship of French glovemaking, but which comes at a price.
The English brand Dents also offers beautiful dress gloves, these are the ones that adorn Daniel Craig's hands in the James Bond films...
And the easy solution is the COS bi-material gloves, lined in cashmere. One of the best value for money.
COS gloves, wool and leather, lined in cashmere for €59. It's not the best fit in the world, but it allows you to spend the winter peacefully.
The question of scarves
It's impossible to go through winter without a scarf, even if you're a turtleneck fan.
Because it is an essential accessory, it is important to choose it carefully.
What material ?
A golden rule: never use synthetic material in a scarf. Then, whether it's wool, cashmere, or silk, it's up to you (and your budget).
I still recommend having a “ true » winter scarf and a lighter scarf/neckerchief for spring and summer evenings.
What size scarf?
For me, the magic size is 190 cm x 50 cm. Of course, it's long, it's wide, but it really protects from the cold, and you can put it in several ways, tie several knots.
Some will prefer a narrower and shorter scarf, but when it is very cold, there may be small gaps where the cold will seep through.
There are wool scarves that are 70 cm wide, but I find that this is starting to become very bulky.
So obviously, if it’s 185 cm instead of 190 cm, that “ walk " Also ! But that gives you an idea of my ideal size.
You can have scarves in 190 cm x 100 cm, such as from Inouitoosh. Once worn, the effect is quite spectacular, very imposing and " chart », in addition to providing effective protection against the cold, but be careful, it is also a bulky accessory. To be reserved for those who already have a scarf “ simple » and who want to have fun with big drapes around their necks.
Jordan, his outfit from yesterday (winter?) playing with his huge Inuitoosh scarf. Septième Width shoes, Renhsen jeans, and Pendleton coat.
Nicolò's word on the hats
Yep, it's me who's stuck with it.
You might be wondering why Benedict hasn't mentioned the hat once in this entire article? Well, our dear Benoît really doesn't like that. And it's stronger than him, he can't help but see any man with a cap as, let's say... a phallic representation. Haem.
But he is fully aware that he is also the one who has a bit of a blockage on this. Also, he wanted to let me, the occasional wearer of the hat in winter, speak.
Here are my “Five Tips for choosing and wearing the Hat”.
Number 1: color
Very sincerely, I don't have a miracle recipe for choosing the right hat color to match your outfit. Very often I think I've found a "hard and fast rule" that works, then I realize there are too many exceptions every time.
You have to test what you like and see the result. Here are some ways to avoid getting stuck:
- The basics: I invite anyone who still hasn't done it to watch this video and read this article , to learn the basic rules about colors, and how to choose them well. You absolutely must understand the concept of "skin/hair contrast" , otherwise what I am going to say next may not make any sense to you.
- Be aware that, as always, brighter colors are a little “harder” on fair skin. But even so, it's not unimportant, it's just a small compromise between style and the "enhancement" of the face, which you can make knowingly.
It's always very easy for matte or black skin, so don't deprive yourself if that's your case.
- No color reminder with the scarf. Really, I don't know who came up with this idea (I think it came from brands that love selling both in matching packs), but it's the best way to make your face disappear in a sea of wool-cashmere. At best, "it goes" not too bad, and at worst, you have this:
"Hello, I'm the orange Tuareg of the urban desert!" No Pedro, you just made a bad color reminder... Put down that orange hat, Pedro.
- Generally speaking, matching colors with the coat, sweater, or other pieces close to the face are a little complicated. Only do this if you have enough contrasting elements on the upper bust, otherwise you risk a "block" effect. On the other hand, you can absolutely do it by having a hat of a slightly different shade, and then it becomes easy as pie.
Two examples of well-done color highlights. On the left, this is only made possible by the pattern of the sweater, which creates relief and avoids visual drowning. On the right, the layering of patterns, colors and textures, via the jacket, shirt and tie, make it happen by itself. Since the cardigan has a deep V, it is also further away from the face than a classic sweater, and there is less risk of suffocation because of the reminder.
- Don't worry too much either. Choose a color that doesn't clash with your coat, following the tips above, and you have a 95% chance that it will work. Really. And at worst, if doubt assail you, you won't risk much by turning to gray or blue, which really don't clash with anything.
There you have it, the risk is approximately zero, with this color. Blue goes with everything, and what's more, this slightly petrol blue won't go tone-on-tone with your navy coats.
Number 2: composition
As always, we will tell you: “favor natural materials” . But then if there's one item you shouldn't cheat on, it's the hat.
Do you want to sweat from your forehead and find yourself with an itchy head every morning when you arrive at work or go to class? No.
I would even say more: don't hesitate to turn to the softest materials if it's in your budget. Merino, cashmere, baby alpaca, even percentages of silk... Because 100% wool does not guarantee softness at all. I would say that merino is the minimum, therefore.
Personally, I wear this model from Inis Meain, but in a taupe gray-brown. The composition? Baby alpaca 80%, silk 20%. And the most surprising thing is that it costs around €60. Not that crazy, considering the materials and Scottish manufacturing.
Yes it's more expensive, but the advantage is that the hat remains a fairly inexpensive piece overall. And it’s an accessory that will quickly pay for itself because you’ll wear it often. (Once you get used to having warm ears, it's hard to go back.)
Number 3: the fit
Yes, a hat has a fit, even if it is often one size.
Think about this in particular if you have a fairly small head size like me: often the cups will cover too much for you, or even sag for larger ones.
And on the contrary, for wearers of large glasses, or those who have a magnificent mane: take into account that you may need a little more space than average.
Oh, and the "beanie", that is to say the long hat, is a bit out of fashion today, so don't be surprised if you find fewer of them than before.
Number 4: the secret “brow and wick” technique
Listen, what I'm letting you know here is a real little nugget... Have you ever wondered why some people have a good face when wearing a hat while you, every time you try, you look like automatically to, say, a mushroom?
Well, they probably use one of these tricks, or even both.
- Leave a section of hair sticking out of the cap, if your cut allows it. For what ? Because suddenly your face regains its “human dimensions”. We find the separation between hair and face, and moreover the skin/hair contrast is restored. You suddenly have a more natural look and complexion. And besides, it makes it much easier to wear brighter colors, which otherwise can very quickly “eat” your face. This is also where those of us who wear long hair are at a great advantage. Ah, and for the bald people who read us, this is no reason to hesitate. On the contrary, well-chosen headwear adorns the face.
- Don’t screw the cap onto your head like a swimming cap, of course! Instead, let your forehead protrude as much as possible, orienting the cap so that it slopes back. In the vast majority of cases, it is because of this oversight that people have a strange face in a beanie. Of course, when it's so cold that you start to care how bad your head looks, turn it down, we're not here to hurt each other. Nothing will stop you from putting it back together later.
The forehead technique is well respected in both photos, as in most of those shown in the article. And on the right, we have a nice example of a wick sticking out. It matters more than it seems! (On the other hand, wearing a beanie is a little dated today, and the gentleman on the right should not need a hat if he is wearing a t-shirt and a light jacket)
Number 5: brands
Because you have to end up buying this hat!
Entry level: Muji, Monoprix, Uniqlo, Massimo Dutti,
Mid-range: Le Bonnet, Atelier Particulier, Albam, Homecore, Harmony Paris, Oliver Spencer, Albam, Howlin' By Morrisson, Robert Mackie, Drapeau Noir
High end: Drake's, The Workers Club, A Kind of Guise, Inis Meain, Johnston of Elgin, Begg & Co.
And that’s it for this mini-guide! Get covered, friends.
“The cold is not inevitable”…
If there was really one thing to take away from this guide, it's this.
The cold should not be a problem, as it is very easy to get around it, and still enjoy the Saturday afternoon ride, despite freezing winds.
Remember to protect your feet well, experiment with different layerings, see when you are (too) hot (or not), and the cold season will be even more pleasant.
