Summary
Rhinestones and sequins; whimsical catwalks; models; " see now, buy now "... The Fashion Week ballet is currently in full swing.
After New York, London and Milan, all eyes are now on our beautiful capital.
During the last fashion week, three women made headlines. Neither top models nor designers, I'm talking about PETA activists. who, in the midst of this global event, braved the rain to demonstrate.
Masked and wearing only flesh-colored underwear, they paraded at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. .
Their demand? To stop the massacre of animals killed for their skins.
This episode, which ultimately received little media coverage, made me want to tackle an increasingly unavoidable subject: that of the famous "vegan leather" .
Some animals are killed for their wool or fur, but it is specifically the issue of leather that I will address below.
A little clarification is necessary: my goal is not to write a pro-vegan plea, nor a pamphlet against the leather industry .
My only claim is to address, in the most objective and impartial way possible, a pressing issue in the fashion sector.
Throughout this paper, we will therefore see where leather comes from, the consequences of its production and the alternatives that can reasonably be considered.
I promise, I'm not the masked graffiti artist of the Paris metro.
The leather industry and its consequences
The leather industry, and more generally its entire sector, has significant impacts at several levels .
Various repercussions...
On animals
The first victims of this system are obviously the animals.
Leather production depends directly on the slaughter of animals. The interconnections between tanneries and leatherworks and there are therefore many slaughterhouses.
The association L214 , whose aim is to protect animals and their rights, regularly reveals abject images captured inside French slaughterhouses (in defiance of the legal texts that we will discuss in the rest of this article).
It is important to understand that, in the context of livestock sales, the profit often comes from what is called "the fifth quarter" . In concrete terms, the sale price of an animal is roughly similar to the price of its meat, and it is the "extras" that will allow a comfortable financial margin to be generated.
For example, beyond meat for human consumption, the blood of animals is preserved to make pet food, the hair to make brushes, the bones and horns to make buttons or instruments, and, obviously, the skin to make leather.
Attached is an example of the value of this famous "fifth quarter" calculated for two heifers by G. de la Morandière in a 1957 article entitled "The transformations of an animal in a butcher's shop and the resulting profit". We can see that it represents a significant financial windfall, with leather occupying a predominant place.
In summary, leather is not just a "waste" from animals slaughtered for their meat , but a significant part of the turnover. Depending on the animal, its skin represents 10 to 50% of its value, which makes it the most profitable of the by-products discussed above.
Furthermore, this rule only applies to furry animals! Others are killed exclusively for their skin, without their meat being the primary motivation. This is the case for all living beings providing so-called "exotic" leathers. .
Few people, like OSS117, kill crocodiles for their meat.
On the environment
The environmental impact is also colossal, although the collective imagination fantasizes about biodegradable leather.
While it is true that hides naturally disintegrate post-mortem, this is no longer the case after the various treatments received during tanning.
A chrome tanning "center" in Fez, Morocco.
Vegetable tanning is much cleaner, replacing polluting mineral products with substances such as bark or fruit. However, its use remains marginal because it is longer and more expensive.
On the health level
Obviously, there are relatively few tanneries in developed countries since the legislation there is generally strict. and the labor, expensive.
Conversely, the leather industry has literally exploded in developing countries, which are less careful about labor laws and ecological considerations.
Waste water, mixed with solid debris and remains of skins, is often released into the surrounding waterways...
Strange color for the water in the city of Hazaribagh in Bangladesh, home to nearly 200 tanneries...
Destruction of ecosystems, poisoning and intoxication are therefore commonplace.
In Dhaka, Bangladesh, for example, we learn that 15,000 workers (some as young as ten) work in the city's 200 or so tanneries. Without gloves or masks, most of them develop chronic skin diseases, respiratory failure and cancer.
Jonathan Fontaine, a photojournalist and humanitarian reporter, traveled to the Dhaka region of Bangladesh. This county is home to 95% of the country's tanneries, where 90% of workers in the sector die before the age of 50...
Obviously, intensive livestock farming for meat and skins also has harmful parallel consequences: deforestation, soil erosion, drying up of rivers, etc.
A dead-end situation?
Lucas, if the leather industry is so deadly, why is it so thriving?
Good question my friend! I can only give you two answers.
Beware of generalities!
Faced with such an observation, it is important to remain measured.
Just as not all vegans eat exclusively dandelions and earthy roots, not all tanners are vile, slave-driving polluters.
More and more brands are investing in the CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) process and applying the principles of sustainable development to the fashion industry. For example, many brands are committed to using sustainable cotton (ASOS, Nike, H&M), to limiting the amount of water used in the processing of materials (Levi's), to using recycled materials (Adidas x Parley or the Zara Joinlife line)...
In France, the laws in force are very strict. They guarantee a requirement of quality with regard to the environment and safety standards for producers and consumers.
At the European Union level, since the free movement of goods, member countries have been invited to harmonize their legislation in this sense. The "CE" marking does not constitute a guarantee of Made in Europe manufacturing, but on the other hand ensures that the product has benefited from design checks, controls and tests to ensure its conformity.
This marking is quite essential because the leather industry on a global scale is relatively opaque.
As a result, buying French and/or labelled leather allows you to limit your ecological footprint, without being complicit in the health abominations of tanneries in developing countries.
Money is king
The second reason for the growth of the global leather industry is obviously measured in euros...
If the "cuirocracy" is thriving so much despite the collateral damage it causes, it is also and above all because it generates a lot, a lot... a lot of money!
In France alone, the leather industry represents 130,000 employees spread across 9,400 companies generating a turnover of 25 billion euros.
In a press release from March, the National Leather Council (whose economic observatory regularly publishes surveys and statistics) welcomed the new increase in exports from the French leather industry.
On a global scale, it is a market that continues to be worth nearly 200 billion euros. The question that arises is: is there an alternative to leather?
What is vegan leather?
A lifestyle in its own right
"Vegan" is an anglicism that has no real equivalent in French, which we have therefore imported as is. Unlike vegetarians and vegans , the vegan does not limit his activism to his diet.
He rejects anything that has anything to do with animal exploitation and wants to protect the environment from its consequences.
No need to pick up your vegan friend in your car with leather seats, he'll prefer to walk!
More than a diet, veganism is a way of life acclaimed by its followers through the slogan "Go vegan".
In France, a large network of associations supports this work. VeganImpact , Vegan.fr and La Société Végane are the best-known organizations.
There is even a political party, the discreet "Animalist Party", which brings this fight into the arena of public affairs. Animal protection associations are often driven by the same ideals: this is the case of Sea Shepherd, 269Life, the Brigitte Bardot Foundation, PETA France or the famous L214.
The name of this association refers to article L214 of the rural code which stipulates: "Any animal being a sensitive being must be placed by its owner in conditions compatible with the biological imperatives of its species." It has been much talked about in recent years, through the broadcast of shocking reports.
Born in the 1940s in the United Kingdom, this trend has been exploding for some time, so much so that it is considered a fashion. This craze explains the development of the famous "vegan leather". Decryption.
For the record, even the famous car manufacturer Tesla has covered its seats in synthetic leather in its latest SUV "Model X"...
Success of an oxymoron
But Lucas, you explained to us that leather was animal skin made rot-proof... How can that be vegan?
Another good question! I have only one answer: it is absolute nonsense...
The term “vegan leather” is completely unfounded , since it specifically refers to alternatives to leather that do not come from animal skins.
It even poses a problem at the legal level... The name "leather" is protected by a decree , article 2 of which stipulates that "the use of the word leather, as a principal or root word or in the form of an adjective [...] is prohibited in the designation of any material other than that obtained from animal skin [...]".
A month later, on February 8, 2010, an order relating to the previous decree came to provide clarifications regarding the names of the materials and animal species concerned. It also distinguishes the surface conditions of the leathers, their types of finishes or even the pictograms concerning them.
Reading this decree, “vegan leather” should actually be referred to as “synthetic material”, “textile material” or “other material”.
The use of the term “vegan leather”, since this material, by definition, does not come from animal skin, can therefore be considered illegal.
A little semantic clarification
I insist on this detail to avoid any confusion: you should not confuse vegetable leather and vegan leather!
The first is a more marketable shortcut to designate the famous vegetable tanned leather (based on bark, plants, etc.), while the second corresponds to artificial leather.
On the left, a "Coursier" backpack in vegan leather from Bleu de Chauffe. On the right, the Chili model from Matt&Nat in vegan leather.
Review of forms of “vegan leather”
Unlike leather, “vegan leather” comes ex-clu-si-vely from plant-based or synthetic materials.
Let's take a closer look.
Synthetic materials
The famous "imitation leather". It's all in the name: based on the appearance of the product, one could assimilate it to real leather, but the latter is in no way derived from animal skin.
These fakes are most commonly made of a non-woven fabric of synthetic polyamide fibers coagulated in a resin (usually polyurethane). Some forms are made from recycled plastic.
There are plenty of them at the entry level.
Among these materials, you will probably recognize the famous Skaï , the Lorica , the Clarino or even the Amara . These synthetic materials have a similar appearance and characteristics equal to or even superior to those of genuine leather, which can make them quite credible alternatives.
Natural materials
In addition to sparing animals, “vegan leathers” made from plant materials can boast significantly more environmentally friendly production than their counterparts mentioned above.
- Cork : this material, flexible and resistant, can be worked like leather. It is the outer part of the bark of the cork oak and its collection does not harm the growth of the tree, since it produces it naturally. Ecological and ethical, the use of cork as leather is expanding.
The Basus brand designs its pieces in Paris and then produces them in Europe, particularly in France and Portugal. They are easily recognizable thanks to the cork leather inserts that add a touch of originality.
- Eucalyptus : we owe this innovation to the German entrepreneur Fabian Stadler, who had the idea of using this very robust material to create belts. The success of his invention was immediate and he had ambitions to expand his range to bags (again in Portugal).
Her brand Noani Fashion offers unisex belts with different buckles and colors, always 100% vegan.
- Pineapple : Spanish woman Carmen Hijosa had the idea of using the leaves of this fruit to produce an artificial, ecological and inexpensive leather. She named this revolutionary concept "Piñatex".
Puma, like the Camper brand, has already used this technology to design a prototype of its famous "Suede" model.
- Muskin : we owe this major breakthrough to an Italian laboratory, a completely new material based on 100% biodegradable mushrooms.
A contraction of the words skin and mushrooms, muskin resembles chamois leather. It is particularly appreciated because it absorbs moisture and then releases it, which prevents the proliferation of bacteria and bad odors.
- Eco-leather : Richard Wool's invention is one of the most promising alternatives. He has just thought of a material made entirely of natural fibers This discovery does not yet have a name but could well shake up the textile industry in the years to come.
Richard Wool, visibly very proud of this prototype shoe made from eco-leather.
How to recognize vegan leather?
Just as there are pictograms to recognize leathers , there are labels and certifications to ensure that we are dealing with a truly vegan product. .
The “Vegan Society” label is one of the oldest, but many others have followed.
This registered trademark is the international standard for vegan products in English-speaking countries.
This is the case of the “Certified Vegan” stamp issued by Vegan Awareness, its counterpart “One voice”, the “Leaping bunny” or even the “Cruelty free” awarded by PETA.
In their absence, be careful because, like any flourishing market, the vegan leather market is subject to counterfeiting!
To find out more about eco-fashion, or ethical fashion, I recommend the excellent Sloweare website. The research on these subjects is particularly thorough.
Are there only advantages to vegan leather?
On paper, consuming “vegan leather” therefore seems to be a considerable virtue. Nevertheless, fans of “real” leather will not fail to criticize artificial leather for its lack of nobility.
It is also a material that requires fewer successive treatments, intermediaries and know-how, hence its less marked preciousness.
While genuine leather will relax, regain shape, adapt to its environment and use, artificial leather will remain “neutral” .
On your artificial leather shoes, don't expect the same fir patina as on these Jacques&Déméter chukkas...
Moreover, artificial leather shares a cumbersome characteristic with genuine leather: you can find a bit of everything…
Let me explain: in the same way that there are leathers made from mediocre hides, tanned quickly and roughly finished, there are also artificial leathers that are more or less interesting. Here as elsewhere, the range extends from the (very) low end to the ultra-luxury…
This type of pants, (unfortunately) very common these days in women's wardrobes, leaves no doubt as to the quality of the imitation leather... The latter does not take the light very well and this plastic effect betrays a manufacturing that leaves something to be desired.
Finally, the main problem with vegan leather is its ecological footprint . Even if it spares animals and the excesses of the leather industry on a global scale, it is often based on synthetic products whose origin is not necessarily clean.
This is one of the arguments that we find most frequently on forums dedicated to the question, and rightly so.
As a result, artificial leathers from entry-level brands are often made from petroleum derivatives, which are not necessarily more eco-friendly than chrome-tanned leather. However, you are already removing animal suffering from the equation.
Some brands involved in an eco-responsible fashion process are working hard to offer vegan leather models in entirely recycled materials. This is the case for high-end brands, such as Stella McCartney, but also for more confidential and largely more accessible labels such as GoodGuys .
In my opinion, we must see this as a global effort which, although not yet optimal, nevertheless marks a positive trend which contributes to cleaning up the fashion industry, and that's a good thing! The best is yet to come...
A quick overview of vegan brands
From the most discreet to the most well-known, from the most accessible to the most cutting-edge, we review the most interesting brands in the sector.
- WILLS SHOES : very wide range of vegan shoes and accessories. Chelsea, brogues, dockers, sneakers, derby… Prices are between 80 and 300€.
In a previous Bon Look video, Ombeline recommended Wills shoes. Thanks to her for this feedback!
- MATT & NAT : “MAT(T)rial and NATure” are the values of this Canadian brand. The brand produces beautiful vegan leather items made from recycled materials. 48-hour bags, satchels, school bags, messengers, briefcases and small “leather goods” are all part of the deal, almost always between €100 and €200.
- NOAH : it is a vegan shoe brand that claims a strong Italian style and a "dolce vita" oriented philosophy. Although the aesthetic rendering sometimes leaves something to be desired (thick and contrasting stitching, big rubber soles, etc.), there is work and a fairly wide choice.
- NAE : this Portuguese brand offers a wide collection of shoes produced from various materials (recycled plastic bottles, cork, pineapple leaves, etc.).
- MOO SHOES : it's a New York boutique with an e-shop, exclusively distributing brands labeled "Cruelty-free". Shoes, t-shirts, leather goods, luggage, accessories, you can find everything at Moo.
The logo speaks for itself, right?
- VEGAN CHIC : another multi-brand e-shop that distributes NAE, Beyond the skin, Bourgeois Boheme and other vegan fashion brands. Men, women and children.
- BEYOND THE SKIN : the vegan shoe brand also claims an ethical and eco-responsible philosophy. This commitment has been recognized since "BTS" has multiplied the labels of PETA, the Vegan Society and other associations. From its Spanish factories, it manufactures original and quite expensive items (between €100 and €200).
- STELLA McCARTNEY : After a stint as creative director of Chloé, Paul McCartney's daughter launched her eponymous brand. A staunch vegetarian, she uses neither leather nor fur in her collections, which has made her one of the most popular vegan labels internationally. It is one of the most cutting-edge luxury vegan brands, because it combines eco-responsible materials (100% recycled) with creative design. I stopped by the Parisian boutique in the gardens of the Palais Royal, and I highly recommend you do the same if possible: the in-store advisors are experts and the materials are truly amazing.
Stella McCartney, or how to make creative DNA and vegan activism rhyme...
- BOURGEOIS BOHÈME : Founded in London in 2005 by Alicia Lai, BB is a completely independent brand that uses Italian vegan leathers to offer very British-inspired shoe models. Validated by PETA and the Vegan Society, all pairs are made in Portugal.
- VAUTE COUTURE : Founded in 2008 by Leanne Mai-Iy Hilgart, the brand claims pole position on the vegan fashion market with one ambition: to remove animals from the equation. Pronounced like "Vote", it produces coats, t-shirts, shirts and accessories entirely from recycled materials (plastic bottles in particular) from its New York workshops.
- VOTCH : Based in London since its creation in 2016 by Laura Stageman, Votch offers watches with straps made of vegan leather. Mixed, minimalist, simple and effective, the models are very well thought out. Little extra: it donates 10% of profits to various charities every three months.
As you can see, the rise of vegan leather has given rise to ideas. Perhaps out of conviction, perhaps to ride the trend, several brands have launched vegan lines. For example:
- Esprit , whose “We love Vegan” range offers a wide choice of sneakers, ankle boots and pumps (for women only at the moment),
- H&M , whose “Conscious” capsule offers pieces made from 100% organic and/or recycled materials,
- Dr. Martens now offers its most legendary models (the 1460 boot, the low 1461 and the 3989 brogue) in vegan leather, for her and for him! Small spoiler: I'll tell you more very soon. 😉
Supporting evidence.
Among these brands, one of them caught my attention because it is a pioneer in this sector in France : Good Guys . Curious to know more, I spoke with Marion Hanania, its founder. A big thank you to her for agreeing to the interview game!
Interview with Marion Hanania, founder of Good Guys
What is your professional background?
I studied fashion design in Paris (Duperré school) but I have always divided my time between design creation and pure artistic creation. I paint every day.
I think that through this dual background, I breathe something personal into the spirit of the brand I created. I worked for other designers before Good Guys, and it was this artistic freedom that I was missing.
What led you to found “Good Guys Don't Wear Leather” in 2011 and why did you choose this name (even if it is quite explicit…)?
I had already been a vegetarian myself for a long time. I was confronted every day with limited and mediocre clothing choices. In short, without skin, without leather, I could not find anything that was becoming or of quality. As a shoe designer, the solution was within my reach: I could create my own models, according to my tastes, my requirements, my ideas and my feelings.
From the Good Guys Summer 2017 collection.
The world is changing fast, but when I created Good Guys, being vegan meant wearing canvas sneakers or plastic clogs. I had to do something. It was not easy to establish quality criteria with new materials, to find manufacturers who understood that I was not looking for a miserable solution, but that my goal was to surpass the standards of the time.
What is the spirit of the brand and what is its positioning?
Beautiful, comfortable, stylish and simple shoes, without killing or torturing animals, without flouting labor laws, and polluting as little as possible.
Assuming your status as a vegan brand, you do not use any animal raw materials. What materials are used in your products? Are they difficult to find?
I had to discover all the materials I use for Good Guys.
There was no tradition of high quality, breathability or comfort without leather; it was a bit distressing. I had to go through long phases of research for materials, which were followed by phases of adaptation for manufacturing.
I use high-performance technical, breathable, eco-friendly microfibers. These materials are from the field of innovation - luxury even - used for car racing or space exploration. Obviously, these high standards come at a price. Few brands use them and, for some materials, I am the first to use them in fashion.
My shoes are the result of research that I intend to push further and further. I have to be careful to avoid animal products at all stages: glue, laces, soles... It's restrictive, but for a good cause. Most often, the solutions I find increase the quality of the shoe. The "PETA approved" label is not distributed to just anyone, I have to be serious and respect my commitments.
PETA named Good Guys the “Best Vegan Shoes for Men.”
You have your pieces produced in Portugal. Why did you choose this country? Do you encounter any particular difficulties in making this type of item?
I had seen a lot of abuse in the factories of the brands I worked for. I wanted a place where workers were treated well.
I saw factories in England, Spain, Italy, but it was in Portugal that I found a competent, enthusiastic team that seemed quite happy to me. The factory I found made shoes by hand, with respect for well-being. Now I had to explain to them the principle of a vegan brand, which they respected.
Together, through many attempts, we were able to invent our technique and our assemblies. I brought them new materials and the learning phase was interesting. Now, we operate normally. I even believe that thanks to my brand, they have more or less become the European specialists in vegan manufacturing.
What is the ecological footprint of the production process of your shoes compared to that of genuine leather shoes?
Oh my... that's a huge question!
The leather industry is very harmful. Replacing leather is a huge step forward from an environmental point of view.
Afterwards, for each step, I do research so that my techniques are as eco-friendly as possible. Knowing that the manufacture and consumption of new products always has an impact on the environment, I try to reduce it as much as possible. The more my company grows, the more I can devote part of my effort to this research.
The so-called vegan fashion market has been booming for a few years now. Do you think it is a passing trend or a deeper change in society?
Society will make a choice, I think.
Either it will continue this destructive madness, or it will adapt and progress. If we choose progress, vegan fashion will become the number 1 fashion thanks to our research. Otherwise, we will continue to live as if tomorrow does not exist... until it does.
On this subject, Marion recommends the film Cowspiracy.
In the long term, what innovations could benefit vegan leather and its reputation? Is investment in R&D significant on a market scale?
In the long term, I think the materials will diversify.
Instead of building on the old standards of leather, we will create new and better standards, which will make the skin obsolete. We will have materials like today, which have the look of suede, while being more breathable and less fragile, but also new ideas. Super light materials, new textures, new comforts...
I also think that the generalization of Vegan fashion will bring technical progress, but also a drop in prices, which would be really great.
What is the proportion of non-vegan people in your community? How do you explain this?
There is no entry questionnaire, as you might expect, so I can't speak to precise proportions. However, in communicating with my clients, I realize that all sorts of reasons lead them to Good Guys.
Many are vegan, of course. Others have been looking for cowboy boots that aren't outdated for ten years, or elegant sandals for a wedding... Some discovered me when British actress Emma Watson listed me among her favorite brands.
It seems to me that my audience is very broad, very diverse, and I think that's great.
What do you say to those who consider veganism to be a radical or even extremist position?
What to answer? Personally, I find it rather extreme to destroy our planet, to massacre animals without reason, to disregard suffering and respect for nature...
That said, with Good Guys, I understood that you don't impose your ideas on others. I offer shoes but I don't do politics. I came to vegetarianism on my own and I feel that in general, it's the only way to make important decisions: by yourself.
How can we make ethics and quality rhyme?
We have to do it. It is an obligation and a responsibility. By trying, by researching, by spending time, energy and money so that the quality of the products always increases... But not at the expense of men, or nature.
What's next for "Good Guys" and what can we wish you for the future?
I would like to find a way for people to be sure of their shoe size, for maximum comfort.
Also, the artistic side of my life is part of Good Guys. I collaborate with visual and musical artists, which is very enjoyable. I want to take advantage of my brand's growing notoriety to promote beauty and creativity, and to vary the products.
For example, I'm going to launch a bag, work on collaborations with other brands, etc. We just launched pins designed by David Ivar Herman Dune, and a t-shirt is coming soon... Stay tuned.
Good Guys x David Ivar Herman Dune Stickers.
The final word
If you have had the courage to come this far, hydrate yourself, take a deep breath, take a paracetamol and summon the last of your remaining strength to remember what follows.
A few years ago, the vegan movement was very marginal, almost exclusively associated with the culinary world and often mocked, even heckled.
Since then, veganism seems to have gained ground as it has left our plates to join our wardrobes , our cars, our accessories and much more.
More than just a trend, this phenomenon appears deeper and testifies to a real change in mentality. I was keen to discuss this (vast) subject, which will be increasingly difficult to avoid in the years to come.
While leather, a so-called noble material, was the standard on the market, many brands are shaking up the established order. They are taking on the role of eco-responsible pioneers, changing the rules of the game via increasingly clean synthetic or plant-based materials. Thanks to progress in R&D, some are managing to imitate the appearance of leather and are endowed with other properties.
This movement owes part of its notoriety to the support of a large number of celebrities who have leaned towards veganism, praising its virtues at the same time.
More and more, consuming is equivalent to a civic approach rather than a simple purchasing action. We choose by buying. We decide by buying. We commit by buying. Choosing ethical fashion is affirming your vision of things... and it is also a great way to feel good in your clothes .
As for me, I'll see you next week for the test of an April 77 perfecto and a pair of Dr. Martens derby, 100% vegan. Stay tuned!
