File: What is vegan leather?

Summary

• The leather industry and its consequences

• What is vegan leather?

• Review of forms of vegan leather

• Are there only advantages to vegan leather?

• A brief overview of vegan brands

• Interview with Marion Hanania, founder of Good Guys

• The final word

Rhinestones and sequins; fanciful parades; mannequins; " see now, buy now "... The ballet of Fashion Weeks is currently in full swing.

After New York, London and Milan, eyes are now fixed on our beautiful capital.

During the previous fashion week, three women made headlines. Neither top models nor designers, I'm talking about PETA activists who, in the middle of this global event, braved the rain to demonstrate.

Masked and only dressed in flesh-colored underwear, they paraded at the foot of the Eiffel Tower .

Their claim? Stop the massacre of animals slaughtered for their skins.

This episode, ultimately little publicized, made me want to tackle an increasingly essential subject: that of the famous “vegan leather” .

A small clarification is necessary: ​​my goal is not to write a pro-vegan plea, nor a pamphlet against the leather industry .

My only claim is to address, in the most objective and impartial way possible, a significant theme in the fashion sector.

Throughout this paper, we will see where leather comes from, the consequences of its production and the alternatives that can reasonably be considered.

The leather industry and its consequences

The leather industry, and more generally its entire sector, has significant impacts on several levels .

Various repercussions...

About animals

The first victims of this system are obviously animals.

Leather production depends directly on the slaughter of animals. Interconnections between tanneries and tanneries and there are therefore many slaughterhouses.

It must be understood that, in the context of the sale of livestock, the profit often comes from what is called "the fifth quarter" . Concretely, the selling price of an animal is roughly similar to the price of its meat, and it is the “sides” that will allow you to generate a comfortable financial margin.

For example, beyond meat intended for human consumption, the blood of animals is preserved to make food for domestic animals, the hairs to make brushes, the bones and horns to make buttons or instruments, and, obviously, the skin to make leather.

In summary, leather is not just “waste” from an animal slaughtered for its meat , but a significant part of the turnover. Depending on the animal, its skin represents 10 to 50% of its value, which makes it the most profitable of the by-products discussed above.

Furthermore, this rule only applies to furry animals! Others are killed exclusively for their skin, without their meat being the primary motivation. This is the case for all living beings providing so-called “exotic” leathers. .

On the environment

The environmental impact is also colossal although the collective imagination fantasizes about biodegradable leather.

While it is true that hides disintegrate naturally post-mortem, this is no longer the case after the various treatments received during tanning.

Vegetable tanning is much cleaner, replacing polluting mineral products with substances such as bark or fruit. However, its use remains marginal because it takes longer and is more expensive.

On the health front

Obviously, there are relatively few tanneries in developed countries since the laws there are generally strict. and labor, expensive.

Conversely, the leather industry has literally exploded in developing countries, which are less careful with regard to labor laws and ecological considerations.

Wastewater, mixed with solid debris and remains of skins, is often released into the surrounding waterways...

Destruction of ecosystems, poisonings and intoxications are therefore commonplace.

In Dhaka, Bangladesh, for example, we learn that 15,000 workers (some of whom are around ten years old) work in the city's approximately 200 tanneries. Without gloves or masks, most develop chronic skin diseases, respiratory failure and cancer.

Obviously, the intensive breeding of cattle slaughtered for their meat and their skins also has harmful parallel consequences: deforestation, soil erosion, drying up of rivers, etc.

A no-win situation?

Lucas, if the leather industry is so deadly, why is it so thriving?

Good question friend! I can only give you two answers.

Be careful with generalities!

Faced with such an observation, it is important to remain measured.

Just as not all vegans eat exclusively dandelions and earthy roots, not all tanners are vile slave-owning polluters.

In France, the laws in force are very strict. They guarantee quality requirements with regard to the environment and safety standards for producers and consumers.

At the level of the European Union, since the free movement of goods, member countries have been invited to harmonize their legislation in this sense. The “CE” marking does not constitute a guarantee of Made in Europe manufacturing, but rather ensures that the product has benefited from design verifications, controls and tests to ensure conformity.

This marking is quite essential because the leather industry on a global scale is relatively opaque.

As a result, buying French and/or labeled leather allows you to limit your ecological footprint, without being complicit in the health abominations of tanneries in developing countries.

Money is king

The second reason which explains the growth of the global leather industry is obviously measured in euros...

If the “leatherocracy” prospers so much despite the collateral damage it causes, it is also and above all because it generates a lot, a lot… a lot of money!

In France alone, the leather industry represents 130,000 employees spread across 9,400 companies generating a turnover of 25 billion euros.

On a global scale, it is a market that continues to be worth nearly 200 billion euros. The question then arises: is there an alternative to leather?

What is vegan leather?

A whole way of life

“Vegan” is an Anglicism that has no real equivalent in French, which we therefore imported as is. Unlike vegetarians and vegans , the vegan does not limit his activism to his diet.

In fact, he refuses anything that relates - directly or indirectly - to animal exploitation and wishes to protect the environment from its consequences.

No need to pick up your vegan friend in your car with leather seats, they will prefer to walk!

In France, a large associative network supports this work. VeganImpact , Vegan.fr and La Société Végane are the best-known organizations.

There is even a political party, the discreet “Animalist Party”, which takes this fight into the arena of public affairs. Animal protection associations are often driven by the same ideals: this is the case of the Sea Shepherd, 269Life, the Brigitte Bardot Foundation, PETA France or the famous L214.

Born in the 1940s in the United Kingdom, this trend has exploded for some time, so much so that it is considered a fashion. This craze explains the development of the famous “vegan leather”. Decryption.

Success of an oxymoron

But Lucas, you explained to us that leather was animal skin made rot-proof… How can it be vegan?

Another good question! I only have one answer: this is absolute nonsense...

The expression “vegan leather” is completely unfounded , since it includes alternatives to leather that do not come from animal skins.

It even poses a problem at the legal level... The name "leather" is protected by a decree , article 2 of which stipulates that "the use of the word leather, as a principal or root or in the form of an adjective [ ...] is prohibited in the designation of any material other than that obtained from animal skin[...]”.

One month later, on February 8, 2010, an order relating to the previous decree provided clarification regarding the names of the materials and animal species concerned. It also distinguishes the surface conditions of the leathers, their types of finishes or even the pictograms concerning them.

The use of the term “vegan leather”, since this material, by definition, does not come from animal skin, can therefore be considered illegal.

Review of forms of “vegan leather”

Unlike leather, “vegan leather” comes exclusively from plant-based or synthetic materials.

Let's take a closer look.

Synthetic materials

The famous “imitation leather”. It's all in the name: based on the appearance of the product, we could compare it to real leather, but the latter is in no way made from animal skin.

These fakes are most frequently composed of a nonwoven of synthetic polyamide fibers coagulated in a resin (generally polyurethane). Some shapes are found from recycled plastic.

Among these materials, you will probably recognize the famous Skaï , the Lorica , the Clarino or the Amara . These synthetic materials have a similar appearance and characteristics equal to or even better than real leather, which can make them quite credible alternatives.

Natural materials

In addition to sparing animals, “vegan leathers” made from plant-based materials can boast of significantly more ecological production than their counterparts mentioned above.

• Cork : this material, flexible and resistant, can be worked like leather. This is the outer part of the bark of the cork oak and its removal does not harm the growth of the tree, since it produces it naturally. Ecological and ethical, the use of cork as leather is booming.

• Eucalyptus : we owe this innovation to the German entrepreneur Fabian Stadler, who had the idea of ​​using this very robust material to create belts. The success of his invention was immediate and he aimed to expand his range to bags (again in Portugal).

• Pineapple : the Spaniard Carmen Hijosa had the idea of ​​using the leaves of this fruit to produce artificial leather, ecological and inexpensive. She named this revolutionary concept “Piñatex”.

• Muskin : we owe this major breakthrough to an Italian laboratory, a brand new material based on 100% biodegradable mushrooms.

• Eco-leather : Richard Wool's invention is one of the most promising alternatives. He has just thought of a material composed entirely of natural fibers . This discovery does not yet have a name but could well shake up the textile industry in the years to come.

How to recognize vegan leather?

Just as there are pictograms to recognize leather , there are labels and certifications to ensure that we are dealing with a truly vegan product. .

The “Vegan Society” label is one of the oldest, but many others have followed.

This is the case of the “Certified Vegan” stamp issued by Vegan Awarness, its counterpart “One voice”, “Leaping bunny” or even “Cruelty free” granted by PETA.

To inform yourself about eco-fashion, or ethical fashion, I recommend the excellent Sloweare site. Investigations into these subjects are particularly thorough.

Are there only advantages to vegan leather?

On paper, consuming “vegan leather” therefore seems to be a considerable virtue. However, fans of “real” leather will not fail to criticize artificial leather for its lack of nobility.

It is also a material which requires less successive treatments, intermediaries and know-how, resulting in less preciousness.

While real leather will relax, regain shape, adapt to its environment and its use, artificial leather will remain “neutral” .

Furthermore, artificial leather shares a heavy characteristic with real leather: you can find a little bit of everything...

Let me explain: in the same way that there are leathers made from mediocre skins, hastily tanned and roughly finished, we also find more or less interesting artificial leathers. Here as elsewhere, the range extends from (very) low-end to ultra-luxury…

Ultimately, the main problem with vegan leather is that of its ecological footprint . Even if it spares animals and the excesses of the leather industry on a planetary scale, it is often based on synthetic products whose origin is not necessarily clean.

As a result, the artificial leathers of entry-level brands are often made from petroleum derivatives, which are not necessarily more eco-friendly than chrome-tanned leather. However, you are already taking animal suffering out of the equation.

Some brands involved in an eco-responsible fashion process are working hard to offer vegan leather models made from entirely recycled materials. This is the case for high-end brands, like Stella McCartney, but also for more confidential and largely more accessible labels like GoodGuys .

In my opinion, we must see it as a global effort which, if it is not yet optimal, nevertheless marks a positive trend which contributes to cleaning up the fashion industry, and that is so much the better! The best is yet to come...

A brief overview of vegan brands

From the most discreet to the most well-known, from the most accessible to the most cutting-edge, we review the most interesting brands in the sector.

• WILLS SHOES : very wide range of vegan shoes and accessories. Chelsea, brogues, dockers, sneakers, derby… Prices are between €80 and €300.

• MATT & NAT : “MAT(T)rial and NATure” are the values ​​of this Canadian brand. The brand produces beautiful vegan leather items made from recycled materials. 48-hour bags, satchels, satchels, messengers, briefcases and small “leather goods” are there, almost always between €100 and €200.

• NOAH : it is a vegan shoe brand that boasts an assertive Italian style and a “dolce vita” oriented philosophy. Although the aesthetic result sometimes leaves something to be desired (thick, contrasting stitching, large rubber soles, etc.), there is work and a fairly wide choice.

• NAE : this Portuguese brand offers a large collection of shoes produced from diverse and varied materials (recycled plastic bottles, cork, pineapple leaves, etc.).

• MOO SHOES : it is a New York boutique with an e-shop, exclusively distributing brands labeled “Cruelty-free”. Shoes, t-shirts, leather goods, luggage, accessories, you can find everything at Moo.

• VEGAN CHIC : another multi-brand e-shop that distributes NAE, Beyond the skin, Bourgeois Boheme and other vegan fashion brands. Men, women and children.

• BEYOND THE SKIN : the vegan shoe brand also boasts an ethical and eco-responsible philosophy. This commitment has been recognized since “BTS” multiplies the labels of PETA, the Vegan Society and other associations. From its Spanish factories, it manufactures original and quite expensive items (between €100 and €200).

• STELLA McCARTNEY : After a stint as head of creative direction at Chloé, Paul McCartney's daughter launched her eponymous brand. A convinced vegetarian, she uses neither leather nor fur in her collections, which makes her one of the most popular vegan brands internationally. It is one of the most cutting-edge luxury vegan brands, because it combines eco-responsible materials (100% recycled) and creative design. I stopped by the Parisian boutique in the gardens of the Palais Royal, and I strongly advise you to do the same if possible: the boutique advisors are experts and the materials are truly stunning.

• BOURGEOIS BOHÈME : Founded in London in 2005 by Alicia Lai, BB is a completely independent brand that uses Italian vegan leathers to offer very British-inspired shoe models. Validated by PETA and the Vegan Society, all pairs are made in Portugal.

• VAUTE COUTURE : Founded in 2008 by Leanne Mai-Iy Hilgart, the brand claims pole position in the vegan fashion market with one ambition: to remove the animal from the equation. Pronounced like "Vote", it produces coats, t-shirts, shirts and accessories entirely from recycled materials (plastic bottles in particular) from its New York workshops.

• VOTCH : Based in London since its creation in 2016 by Laura Stageman, Votch offers watches with vegan leather straps. Mixed, minimalist, simple and effective, the models are very well thought out. Little extra: it donates 10% of profits to various charitable associations every three months.

As you can see, the rise of vegan leather has given rise to ideas. Perhaps out of conviction, perhaps to ride the trend, several brands have launched vegan lines. For example :

• Esprit , whose “We love Vegan” range offers a wide choice of sneakers, ankle boots and pumps (for women only for the moment),

• H&M , whose “Conscious” capsule offers pieces made from 100% organic and/or recycled materials,

• Dr. Martens now offers its most legendary models (the 1460 ankle boot, the 1461 low and the 3989 brogue) in vegan leather, for her and for him! Small spoiler: I'll tell you more very soon. 😉

Among these brands, one caught my attention because it was a pioneer in this sector in France : Good Guys . Curious to know more, I spoke with Marion Hanania, its founder. A big thank you to her for taking part in the interview!

Interview with Marion Hanania, founder of Good Guys

What is your professional background?

I studied fashion design in Paris (Duperré school) but I have always divided my time between creation in design and pure artistic creation. I paint every day.

I think that thanks to this double journey, I breathe something personal into the spirit of the brand that I created. I worked for other creators before Good Guys, and it was this artistic freedom that I missed.

What led you to found “Good Guys Don’t Wear Leather” in 2011 and why did you choose this name (even if it is quite explicit…)?

I had already been a vegetarian myself for a long time. I was faced with limited and poor clothing choices every day. Clearly, without skin, without leather, I couldn't find anything fitting or of quality. As a shoe designer, the solution was within my reach: I could create my own models, according to my tastes, my requirements, my ideas and my feelings.

The world changes quickly, but when I started Good Guys, being vegan meant wearing canvas sneakers or plastic clogs. I had to do something. It was not easy to establish quality criteria with new materials, to find manufacturers who understood that I was not looking for a poor solution, but that my goal was to surpass the standards of the time.

What is the spirit of the brand and what is its positioning?

Beautiful shoes, comfortable, stylish and simple, without killing or torturing animals, without flouting labor laws, and polluting as little as possible.

Assuming your status as a vegan brand, you do not use any animal raw materials. So what materials make up your products? Are they hard to find?

I had to figure out all the materials I use for Good Guys.

There was no tradition of high quality, breathability or comfort without leather; it was a bit distressing. I had to go through long phases of research for materials, followed by phases of adaptation for manufacturing.

I use high technical performance, breathable, eco-friendly microfibers. These materials are in the field of innovation - even luxury - used for automobile racing or the conquest of space. Obviously, these high standards come at a price. Few brands use them and, for certain materials, I am the first to use them in fashion.

My shoes are the result of research that I intend to push further and further. I have to pay attention to the absence of animal products at all stages: the glue, the laces, the sole.... It's restrictive, but for a good cause. Most often, the solutions I find increase the quality of the shoe. The “PETA approved” label is not distributed to anyone, I have to be serious and respect my commitments.

You have your parts produced in Portugal. Why did you choose this country? Do you encounter any particular difficulties in making this type of item?

I had seen a lot of abuse in the factories of the brands I worked for. I wanted a place where workers were treated well.

I saw factories in England, Spain, Italy, but it was in Portugal that I found a competent, enthusiastic team who seemed quite happy to me. The factory I found made shoes by hand, with respect for well-being. I now had to explain to them the principle of the vegan brand, which they respected.

Together, through many attempts, we were able to invent our technique and our blends. I brought them new materials and the learning phase was interesting. Now we are operating normally. I even believe that thanks to my brand, they have more or less become the European specialists in vegan manufacturing.

What is the ecological footprint of the production process of your shoes compared to that of real leather shoes?

Olalala... that's a huge question!

The leather industry is very harmful. Replacing leather is a huge step forward from an environmental perspective.

Afterwards, for each step, I do research so that my techniques are as eco-friendly as possible. Knowing that the manufacturing and consumption of new products always has an impact on the environment, I try to reduce it as much as possible. The more my business grows, the more I can devote part of my effort to this research.

The so-called vegan fashion market has been booming in recent years. Do you think this is a temporary trend or a more profound change in society?

Society will make a choice, I think.

Either it will continue this destructive madness, or it will adapt and progress. If we choose progress, vegan fashion will become fashion number 1 thanks to our research. Otherwise, we will continue to live as if there is no tomorrow... until it does.

Ultimately, what innovations could benefit vegan leather and its notoriety? Is investment in R&D significant on a market scale?

Ultimately, I think the materials will diversify.

Instead of elaborating on the old standards of leather, we will create new and better standards, which will make the skin obsolete. We will have materials like today, which have the look of suede, while being more breathable and less fragile, but also new ideas. Super light materials, new textures, new comforts...

I also think that the generalization of Vegan fashion will lead to technical progress, but also to a drop in prices, which would be really great.

What is the proportion of non-vegan people in your community? How do you explain it?

There is no entry questionnaire, as you might expect, so I can't speak to precise proportions. As I communicate with my clients, however, I realize that there are all sorts of reasons that lead them to Good Guys.

Many are vegan, of course. Others had been looking for cowboy boots that weren't out of style for ten years, or elegant sandals for a wedding... Some discovered me when the British actress Emma Watson named me among her favorite brands.

It seems to me that my audience is very broad, very diverse, and I find that very good.

What do you say to those who consider veganism to be a radical or even extremist position?

What to answer? Personally, I find it rather extreme to destroy our planet, to massacre animals for no reason, to disregard suffering and respect for nature...

That said, with Good Guys, I understood that you don't impose your ideas on others. I offer shoes but I don't do politics. I came to vegetarianism on my own and feel that in general, it's the only way to make important decisions: on your own.

How can we combine ethics and quality?

We have to do it. It is an obligation and a responsibility. By trying, researching, spending time, energy and money so that the quality of the products always increases... But not to the detriment of people, or nature.

What’s next for “Good Guys” and what can we wish you for the future?

I would like to find a way for people to be sure of their shoe size, for maximum comfort.

Furthermore, the artistic part of my life ties in with Good Guys. I collaborate with visual or musical artists, which is very pleasant. I want to take advantage of the growing awareness of my brand to promote beauty and creativity, and vary the products.

For example, I will launch a bag, work on collaborations with other brands, etc. We have just launched pins designed by David Ivar Herman Dune, and a t-shirt will arrive soon... Stay tuned.

The final word

If you had the courage to get this far, hydrate yourself, take a deep breath, take a doliprane and mobilize the last strength you have left to remember what follows.

A few years ago, the vegan movement was very marginal, almost exclusively associated with the culinary world and often mocked, even heckled.

Since then, veganism seems to have gained ground since it has left our plates to join our wardrobes , our cars, our accessories and much more.

More than a simple trend, this phenomenon appears deeper and reflects a real change in mentality. I was keen to discuss this (vast) subject, which will be increasingly difficult to avoid in the years to come.

While leather, a so-called noble material, was the norm on the market, many brands are shaking up the established order. They assume the role of eco-responsible pioneers, changing the rules of the game through increasingly cleaner synthetic or plant-based materials. Thanks to advances in R&D, some manage to imitate the appearance of leather and are endowed with other properties.

This movement owes part of its notoriety to the support of a large number of celebrities who have leaned towards veganism, extolling its virtues at the same time.

Increasingly, consuming is more of a civic approach than a simple purchasing action. We choose by buying. We decide by buying. We commit by purchasing. Choosing ethical fashion means affirming your vision of things... and it's also a great way to feel good in your clothes .

As for me, I'll see you next week to test an April 77 perfecto and a pair of Dr. Martens derby shoes, 100% vegan. Stay connected!