Disclaimer: There are certain topics that you have asked us a lot, regarding "complements" to clothing. After the hairstyle guide , we decided to focus on another particularly visible layer: the skin of our face...
For such a delicate subject, we chose to turn to people with an approach similar to ours, emphasizing education and pedagogy in a concrete way . So we went to see Horace , a cosmetics brand that has done a lot of work on the issue .
In addition to advice, they offer us a selection of products from several different brands. We also wanted to know how they had managed to develop their own range: if we know the constraints of a clothing designer, we were curious to know those of a creator of skin care products ...
And as usual, we didn't make a single cent for this article . The floor is theirs!
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A nice shirt is good. A Neapolitan shoulder jacket is even better. The two together are perfect. The basics in terms of clothing, after reading BonneGueule, you know them.
However, dressing well is not enough: grooming - taking care of your skin and hair - is a continuation of your personal style. He is even fully part of it.
When you get dressed in the morning, you don't forget to brush your teeth
Unless you're a naturist, your face is the first thing people see about you, and certainly just as essential an element as your outfit. It is not for nothing that the sociologist Paul Yonnet said that “the skin is the first item of clothing” . Therefore, it seems logical and essential to take care of it. Fortunately, it's very simple, and we're here to guide you to more beautiful skin.
Let's start with the basics: what is your skin type?
It is the quality of your hydrolipidic film - a mixture of sebum, enzymes, lipids and water forming a sort of protective film on the epidermis, ensuring its hydration - which determines your skin type.
To find out, it seems that applying tissue paper to your skin, half an hour after cleaning your face, would be enough. You can practice the exercise with two strips of tissue paper or with the shirt you save for disco nights.
The principle is simply to analyze the residues left by the skin on the support used.
pH paper also allows you to determine your skin type: if the pH of normal skin is 5.5, dry skin has a pH lower than 4.5
However, a keen sense of observation can be enough, without the help of fancy accessories (and not necessarily always within reach).
- If your skin is soft, supple , without particularly oily or dry areas, and it varies depending on the cold, you have normal skin.
- If your skin is rough, tends to feel tight (especially after a shower), and you often have dead skin residue, you have dry skin.
- If you have thick skin, prone to breakouts and rather oily to the touch , you have oily skin.
-
If only your forehead, your nose and your chin
are oily and prone to breakouts, but your cheeks are drier, you have combination skin.
- If your skin is particularly prone to redness , and it reacts to climatic and environmental changes, you have sensitive skin.
Please note: certain factors, such as occasional medical treatments, a change of season or lack of water, can affect the nature of your skin - by drying it out or making it more oily, for example.
How to take care of your skin?
Now that you know what your skin type is, you can get down to business and take care of it the way it deserves. Each skin has its needs, which is why it is absolutely necessary to know it to provide it with the appropriate attention.
However, they have one thing in common: the three basic steps for more beautiful skin, which we will now describe. Then, depending on your type, you adapt your treatment.
Cleaning
It is the base of everything.
Contrary to what you have probably thought for a long time, washing your face with the same soap as your body is not a good idea. The skin on your face is thinner and does not have the same needs since, unless you are a naturist
Above all, avoid using Marseille soap : it works well for the body but on the face, it can quickly irritate because it is a very rough soap, particularly aggressive, without active ingredients to moisturize (to compensate).
So, what product should you wash your face with?
The options are numerous. So what should you look for in a cleanser?
Above all, it should not be too harsh on the skin. You want clean skin, not stripped skin. Here are some quality options to ensure trouble-free cleaning.
Clinique's facial cleanser , which gently cleanses.
A cleansing gel based on olive oil and green tea .
A gentle cleanser from Malin+Goetz that cleans without stripping.
Horace's proposal
Too often, gel cleansers are harsh, removing all the oil from the skin and leaving it tight, almost as if stripped.
We wanted a cleansing and purifying formula, while being gentle, not damaging the skin and thus preventing redness: this is why our cleanser is enriched with glycerin, a humectant of plant origin, and Allantoin, which comes from a plant called comfrey.
These ingredients soothe and leave skin hydrated. By choosing charcoal for its purifying properties, we had to make sure to make the formula sufficiently fluid because the charcoal stuck in the bottle. We did it. No more redness and tightness.
Horace's facial cleanser with binchotan (a purifying activated charcoal) formulated to limit excess sebum without drying out the skin. Note from Benoit: I'm not a groomer at all, but this cleanser has clearly become essential to me. It really keeps all its promises.
Hydration
Moisturizing cream is a kind of shield that will act to protect your skin .
Use a cream that will take care of your hydrolipidic film
Caution: Always apply moisturizer to clean skin, otherwise you risk trapping dirt under the protective layer of cream. She would thus find herself, like R. Kelly, “ Trapped in the closet ”. God knows the experience was bad for Robert.
Which moisturizer to choose?
Again, the options are numerous. Depending on your preference, you will opt for a cream that is more or less thick, and flavored or not.
A moisturizer that leaves skin protected and refreshed .
A vitamin E moisturizer that nourishes and protects the skin.
A very moisturizing cream , with a pleasant herbaceous scent.
Horace's proposal
When developing our facial moisturizer, we spoke with our customers to find out what they expected: a fluid, quickly penetrating cream that leaves no residue and is not felt on the skin.
We also wanted our moisturizer to have balancing properties, for always flawless skin.
For the choice of ingredients, we needed something very hydrating, which penetrates quickly and without feeling greasy. We then turned to prickly pear oil, the fruit of the cactus, which is one of the most moisturizing oils in the world: it allows you to have the benefits (hydration) without the disadvantages (the greasy side and the film effect on the face). Ours comes from Morocco and it is organic.
Horace's balancing facial moisturizer , which hydrates without leaving residue and helps the skin regulate its pH. Benoit note: tested and approved even if I don't apply it regularly!
Exfoliation
Exfoliation is the third half, the one that takes you to the big leagues.
Once a week, you indulge in a deep cleansing in the shower: your pores are unclogged and you therefore, logically, look better, since you eliminate the dead skin that litters your face .
Caution: avoid exfoliating every day. Apparently, exfoliation is a fairly aggressive practice, and it should be used in moderation. Like a Negroni, this cocktail made with Campari, vermouth and gin, in short.
What type of exfoliant to choose?
To exfoliate, two forms of product exist.
First, there's the exfoliant in a tube. It is a product that is used in the shower and helps eliminate dead skin, for example using a micro-bead system. Then there is the exfoliating sponge, softer , which is suitable for the most sensitive skin and will be less aggressive on the skin.
A gentle cleansing gel scented with peppermint and rose that cleanses deeply without harming the skin.
A quality exfoliant, with jojoba micro-beads , for an optimal effect.
A gentle exfoliant with crushed walnut shells that soothes the skin while cleansing it deeply.
Horace's proposal
Exfoliation, for us, is the ultimate touch of grooming.
We started with a konjac sponge
Horace's binchotan exfoliating sponge , which removes dead skin without stripping effect.
As we also wanted a more vigorous exfoliant, more suitable for preventing ingrown hairs and therefore preparing the skin for shaving, we developed a second one.
Stronger, without being abrasive: we chose to work with murumuru, a Brazilian almond. Its shells eliminate dead skin, its butter soothes and leaves the skin softer. With one almond, two blows.
Horace murumuru exfoliant .
Each skin type has its own skincare routine!
Normal skin
If you have normal skin, this unremarkable skin, you can consider yourself lucky. The care that must be given to it is simple, and revolves around three basic steps .
Normal skin, however, varies with the seasons: in winter it tends to be drier, while in summer it can be oilier. It is therefore appropriate to adapt your routine to these environmental effects to maintain a healthy glow whatever happens.
Dry skin
As for normal skin - spoiler alert: for all others too - cleansing, hydration and exfoliation are three important steps. Where there is a difference is in the products you will use, the ingredients that will help you, and the quantities of product to apply.
You need a richer moisturizer (or use more).
It seems logical, but if you have dry skin, it's because your skin lacks lipids. It is therefore essential to compensate with good fat.
There are two solutions for this: either you use a richer cream, which will nourish more deeply, or you use the same
At Clinique for Men, a very powerful moisturizer that helps repair your dry skin.
Baxter of California has just released a particularly powerful and rather oily cream to rehydrate dry skin.
A Ren Skincare cream , also quite thick, which deeply hydrates the skin
Combination skin and oily skin
We're going to classify these two together. For what ? It's simple. In fact, they have almost the same characteristics: they are thick, oily to the touch, are particularly prone to pimples and blackheads.
The difference is that if one is on the entire face, the other is only on the T zone.
The essential: a gentle cleanser
Who says excess sebum, says need for cleansing. However, there is no point rushing into something aggressive, thinking that you have to strip in order to reign better. This would be counterproductive: stripped skin tends to produce more sebum , in reaction to what you put it through. The opposite of the desired effect, therefore.
Choose a gentle cleanser, which cleanses without being too harsh on the skin.
A gentle cleanser suitable for oily skin .
Hydration, not superfluous
We see you coming: “ there’s no point in moisturizing oily skin ”, you say to yourself.
It would be too simple. Oily skin, like any other, needs a protective barrier to prevent pores from becoming clogged and spots appearing. A balancing cream helps rebalance the pH of the skin and, thus, make it tend towards normality. There's nothing better than normal sometimes.
A rich moisturizer that helps rebalance skin .
A mattifying moisturizer that will limit the “shiny skin” effect.
The cleansing mask, the ally of choice
The cleansing mask is the bonus to be reserved for combination and oily skin. For ten minutes twice a month, let a clay mask dry on your skin. Its astringent effect cleanses deeply, tightens pores and leaves your skin fresh and invigorated .
Take advantage of this bi-monthly respite to read a book in a silk bathrobe. Like a true gentleman.
A clay mask that leaves skin soft while deeply cleansing it.
A purifying mask that helps leave the skin deeper down cleaner.
A mask that will stimulate cell renewal and eliminate dead cells , for clearer skin.
A mint mask that surprises with its almost extreme freshness (you almost have the impression that it is burning the skin, but no), and cleanses effectively.
Horace's proposal
When developing our clay mask, we wanted a mask capable of “rebooting” the skin by cleansing it deeply and making it soft, for an instant healthy glow.
We therefore chose to combine two clays, pink and green, with shea butter and malted barley. For a cleaner face, but never dry.
We wanted a mask rich in clay to have something very purifying. The difficulty was to achieve this while having an easy-to-apply texture and a neutral pH, the clay being acidic.
The Horace mask with two clays.
For combination skin, toner, a quick refreshing boost
The toner - which has nothing to do with a printer cartridge - is in fact a tonic lotion, with an astringent effect particularly recommended for combination skin .
Indeed, in a simple application, it not only cleanses, but also mattifies your skin to make it less shiny, and help it rebalance. Particularly useful for those suffering from “end of day shiny forehead sickness”
A minty toner, the assurance of a real boost of freshness , one of the best quality-price ratios on the market.
A very good toner with a spray , which avoids having to use a cotton pad
A fresh toner with the scent of citrus and lavender . Available in spray or classic bottle version.
Horace's proposal
For us, toner is a great product, especially as soon as the mercury rises: we are particularly fond of it at the end of the day, or in case of heatstroke after a bike ride.
However, keeping a bottle and cotton pads in your bag is not very practical. The idea for this product came to us one afternoon in June 2016 after cycling through Paris and arriving at a meeting feeling dirtier than when I left.
We talked about it to those around us, to some of our customers , and we realized that it was a problem with no real solution. We then said to ourselves that we could make a tonic lotion in the form of individually wrapped wipes. It slips easily into a pocket, ready to give a fresh boost in a single gesture. And it can be used as a pocket square.
Horace's refreshing facial wipes , individually packaged and sold in packs of 20.
Sensitive skin
Sensitive skin is rather difficult to live with. It is characterized by itching, redness and a sensation of dryness, even burning. It is more reactive to environmental effects, and can worsen with stress.
To take care of it, it is essential to avoid certain ingredients. Some cosmetic products contain perfume or synthetic alcohol. For use in cosmetics, it is often used denatured, under the INCI name of Alcohol denat.
In terms of origins, it is extracted from a very reactive gas . It should not be confused with ethyl alcohol of plant origin, obtained by fermentation of certain fruits or cereals, or with fatty alcohols which have film-forming and emollient properties.
All alcohols, therefore, are not born equal: this is the case in grooming as in whiskey distilleries. Not all of them are bad: undenatured vegetable alcohols and fatty alcohols can be good for the skin, even if it is more sensitive. On the other hand, synthetic denatured alcohols should be avoided. For now, just look at the list of ingredients: if it says “Alcohol Denat.”, put the product back down...
In case of redness, use a specific product: anti-redness serums exist, such as that from Ren Skincare. It would be a shame if everyone thought you were blushing when you just had reactive skin, right?
The four mistakes not to make
To remain impeccable in all circumstances, it is essential to ensure that you do not make these common mistakes.
Forgetting to wash your face
You definitely take showers, at least once a day. When you skip one, you often feel like you're dirty.
However, sometimes you forget to wash your face, or just splash water on yourself in the morning. Not very logical: where you diligently wash your body, although protected under your clothes, you forget your face, although subject to all the elements.
Use body soap on the face
Another common mistake mentioned above is washing your face with the wrong tool. Your body soap is not suitable for caring for your facial skin : it is thinner, more fragile and, also, dirtier. So he needs something suitable. Above all, no Marseille soap, for example, which would be far too aggressive.
Exfoliate daily
An “expert level” error, so to speak. Convinced that their skin is excessively dirty, some men choose to exfoliate daily.
We said easy on exfoliation...
An excess of zeal which costs them dearly: deprived of oils produced naturally by the skin and guarantors of its good health, their skin is more reactive, drier, and produces more sebum in reaction . The opposite of the desired effect.
Apply your moisturizer to dirty skin
When you apply your moisturizer to dirty skin, you risk trapping impurities under a layer that is supposed to protect you. Kind of like leaving an opponent behind your first line of defense, except there's no offside rule when it comes to skincare.
This error is unforgiving: you risk seeing blackheads and pimples appear.
The final word...
We recap.
To take care of your skin, it is important to know it. Then, there are three basic steps, which you cannot escape regardless of your skin type:
- cleaning , daily,
- hydration , daily too,
- exfoliation , rather weekly.
Then, depending on your skin type, you adapt your care : dry skin needs to be more heavily hydrated, while oily skin benefits from the astringent effect.
Also note that most people have normal skin. What causes it to vary, making it drier or more oily, are external elements: diet, pollution, temperature... Likewise, a shiny forehead at the end of the day is a normal phenomenon, due to what you live: in a day, you sweat, you live. Your forehead is the first area where this is visible.
You are ready to show your best face. Because your skin is more than an accessory, give it the same care as your clothes.
