File: how to nourish, style and maintain your hair?

Hey team, will the hairstyle guide be ready soon? Readers are getting impatient!

I swear, you can't imagine how many times I've heard this phrase from Nicolò's mouth in recent weeks...

If you have been following BonneGueule for more than 48 hours, you obviously know Nicolò, our great community manager. From evening to morning and from morning to evening, only two things occupy her mind: the well-being of the BonneGueule community... and her hair!

To tell you the truth, he spends almost as much time answering your questions as he does (re)doing his hair...

Obviously, he awaited this guide with undisguised impatience, both to satisfy your many requests and to perfect his hair skills.

However, you know: hair is not at the heart of BonneGueule's usual concerns. We help men feel good in their clothes, but not really take care of their mane...

Since the world of hairdressing is not quite our core business, we therefore relied on the expertise of a professional to write this guide.

A challenge remained: finding THE most competent hairdresser possible, who would distill his knowledge with pedagogy.

Remembering an old French proverb , I turned to the Artley salon and more particularly Christophe Adric, its artistic director .

The latter kindly agreed to answer my questions, and I thank him warmly. As you read, I will share these with you at the most appropriate times.

Christophe Adric, hair expert

Hi Christopher. Can you introduce yourself to BonneGueule readers?

"Hello! I am an artistic director at Artley and an image coach for actors, models and public figures.

After multiple professional experiences and numerous trips around the world, I came to Paris, “City of Lights”, where hairdressing very naturally presented itself to me as a passion.

From then on, I no longer had to search, everything was there: know-how and knowledge. I had the privilege of working for twenty years for the biggest hair brands around the world, and of teaching my passion to hairdressers and entertainment workers in my Hairdressing Academy.

I also provided training for employees of the L'ORÉAL France - Clichy research laboratory. I spoke regularly for UNESCO as part of the “Women and science” program.

Passionate about art and photography, I always work according to an art of living: cultivating the supreme of sophistication, that is to say keeping it simple and doing it right.

As for clothes , I have a rock style (and the attitude that goes with it), but not in a forced mode. It's all about subtlety in order to remain consistent with yourself."

What does your daily work involve?

Quite simply: developing the Artley concept and motivate my staff of experts with all my energy and passion.

It's also about meeting people, revealing a story through their haircut... The most important thing for me is to create, whether through my work in the salon or in fashion.

What are the differences between a hairdresser and a facialist? Are these notions complementary or inseparable?

The hairdresser makes a cut, while the facialist seeks to adjust his creation to each face. One can't really go without the other.

What is a good hairdresser? A good facialist?

In my opinion, a good hairdresser knows how to listen and look attentively. He advises well and displays a high level of professional expertise.

Conversely, I don't think there is a "good facialist" strictly speaking. Face painting does not accommodate strict rules and you have to know how to go against the main principles if necessary. Indeed, a flaw can be an interesting trait to exploit in order to create character.

Does facialism only take into account the face or the style in general?

For me, hairstyle is an integral part of the overall style! If your hairdresser gives you the bathrobe without looking at you first, be wary...

(Re)know your hair type

All men are not equal when it comes to their hair characteristics: it is often a mix between genetic heritage and lifestyle (hygiene, diet, etc.). - Christophe Adric

For men, the hair universe is full of mysteries. Although these gentlemen often take care of their skin, their figure and their appearance, they tend to neglect the hygiene of their hair, due to lack of knowledge in the matter.

For this reason, I believe it is essential to start at the beginning and review the basics.

Just as you must know the nature of your skin to care for it, you cannot properly maintain your hair without controlling its type .

Understanding your mane is essential to pamper it properly and prevent problems .

Little anatomy lesson

First of all, we must agree on one point: hair is a hair like any other!

Like a flower, it is made up of three parts, only one of which is visible on the surface:

• the shaft: this is the exposed part of the hair. This is one that you can style and sculpt onto your scalp. This stem contains a protein, keratin, which results from the accumulation of dead cells which harden . Despite its thinness, the stem has 3 layers including the cuticle , the cortex and the marrow .

• the bulb (or hair follicle): it represents the envelope of the root and resides in the dermis. It is within it that new cells are born, pushing the older ones upwards. The oldest cells die and then make up the stem. Yes, you hear correctly: the visible part of our hair is biologically dead...

• the root: it lives in the heart of the bulb. It is the living part of the hair: it is nourished by the blood capillaries to allow growth.

Concretely, the blood vessels supply the root with nutrients, which allow the hair to produce this famous keratin and grow properly.

Depending on their location on the scalp, they grow differently: forwards at the forehead, rather backwards at the nape of the neck, and stiffly on the skull.

It is by following this process that the approximately 130,000 hairs (on average) which populate our noggins were born. Even if we naturally lose around fifty hairs every day, there are enough left to try ever more incredible hairstyles... provided you know which group you belong to.

These groups are divided according to several more or less relevant classifications. There are several dozen depending on the country and organizations, but I have chosen to present two of them to you because they are very complementary and rather coherent.

Classification by nature of the scalp

This is a fairly classic and very traditional classification, which often goes hand in hand with skin type. We therefore distinguish, without suspense:

• dry hair: the sebaceous gland, which we were talking about earlier, does not produce enough sebum in this case. Also, the scalp is not sufficiently hydrated and the hair is dry, brittle and relatively rough . They are fragile and quite difficult to detangle/style.

• normal hair: everything is fine in this case. The sebaceous gland has worked properly, “and it shows on the outside” as the other would say. As a result, the hair looks beautiful, it is rich, strong and quite shiny (without being oozing). It is then easy to discipline them as you wish.

• oily hair: as you can imagine, this is an excess of sebum... Results? Heavy, oily hair that can look quite unpleasant.

André Walker classification

This is a classification that is less known in France, although it is more common on the other side of the Atlantic. And for good reason, André Walker is none other than the stylist of Oprah Winfrey, queen of US TV. .

In 1999, the latter wrote a book in which he introduced a revolutionary classification which immediately created a buzz among our American friends.

Although it is primarily intended for women, this guide can just as easily be understood for men since hair has no gender.

According to André Walker, you must take into account two parameters to categorize your hair: texture and thickness .

• the texture is rated out of 4: 1 = straight, 2 = wavy, 3 = curly, 4 = frizzy.
• the thickness is noted on an increasing scale from A to C.

By combining these two criteria, we obtain 12 possible combinations : 1A; 1B; 1 C ; 2A; 2B; 2C; 3A; 3B; 3C; 4A; 4B; 4C.

It seems complicated said like that but you will see that once illustrated, it is very clear. Just look!

Obviously, actors' hair changes from one film to another (or even from one scene to another) so don't be offended if you've already seen Matthew McConaughey with straight hair or Morgan Freeman with long, straight hair ...

This is a fairly non-exhaustive comparison whose sole aim is to illustrate the model theorized by André Walker, so that you have a clearer and more faithful idea of ​​it.

"Okay Lucas, I'm 1A, 2B or 4C. And now what do I do?" . Well, you move on to the next paragraph. Quite simply !

Why is it important to know your hair type?

Knowing your hair type may seem trivial, but it is nevertheless a necessary step.

Could you imagine applying creams at random to your skin, without first determining whether it is rather dry or rather oily? Of course not... and the reasoning should be the same in the case of your hair.

Determining your “hair identity”, by combining the two previous classifications, will allow you to choose wisely:

• the care to adopt for your hair : depending on your type, you will have to deal differently with the products and other masks to eliminate excess sebum or restore softness and shine.

• the shampoos and conditioners best suited to your mane: never rely on the classic 5 in 1 hair and body soap... it saves you 5 minutes but does you more harm than good in the long term.

• the most consistent care for your scalp : it is essential to nourish it, rid it of impurities and relax it.

To illustrate my points, I will give you an example that I know quite well: mine!

First of all, I have normal hair. . Regarding André Walker's, I'm more on a 1C , that is to say straight and thick hair.

Knowing this, I opt for a classic, neutral shampoo, without a volumizing effect so as not to thicken my hair further, and I do not apply sebum-regulating products.

I also don't use conditioner since its use is more intended to repair dry and damaged hair or hair lacking volume.

In addition, my hairdresser applies a scrub and a scalp mask every three to four weeks, which helps eliminate dead skin, promote blood circulation and... relax!

Taking care of your hair

As we have just seen, knowing your hair type is essential to taking care of it . But concretely, how do we do it on a daily basis? This is what I will explain to you right away...

Christophe's analysis

We know that those with thick hair would like it to be thin, that those with curly hair would like not to be thin, that blondes would like to be brown and vice versa... In short, can we fight against the nature of our hair?

Yes and no. It all depends on the priority and the effort (in time and money) that we wish to provide. In cinema: everything is possible! In everyday life, it's not always that simple. The question would be: should we fight against our nature or turn it into an asset?

When it comes to clothing, a good wardrobe is based on good basics. What about the “ideal toiletry bag”? What are the essential products to take care of your hair?

Like a locker room, each kit should be different. However, there are a few invariants including: a good shampoo, a TIGI flat brush, a 3-row boar bristle brush, a comb, salt water spray, non-greasy flexible modeling paste, a dryer, a pocket mirror (for the profile and the back) and possibly a mini trimmer…

The Internet is full of “grandmothers' tips” for taking care of your hair and giving it volume, shine, softness... Avocados, eggs, honey, clay, everything goes there. What do you think ?

It's like looking for a treatment solution on the Internet: it's very risky. You absolutely must check the origin of the text, the credibility of this person and see if it really suits you. The diagnosis is very important, it is 50% of the success.

How to wash them?

Here again, I asked Christophe for his (informed) opinion...

We hear everything and its opposite about how often and how to wash your hair. Can you close this debate and tell us when to shampoo?

It's like the body, the scalp must be clean so as not to suffocate the pores of the skin. We should wash our hair at least every two days in big cities because most of the pollution and odors are captured in our hair and skin.

You should not wash or strip your hair but just clean it gently, in order to leave the natural lipid film that protects us.

Now that we have a general idea of ​​frequency, we need to know how to wash our hair! The ideal would be to rely on cold water. That said, I'm like you: taking a cold shower every morning (especially in winter) doesn't particularly thrill me...

If you don't opt ​​for freezing water, make sure you don't subject your hair to a boiling bath and prefer a lukewarm temperature as much as possible so as not to damage it.

Then you have to shampoo. Here, do not hesitate to massage your scalp using small circular movements. You thus combine business with pleasure since in addition to being pleasant, this technique helps improve blood circulation and cleans your scalp in depth.

Rinsing is the next step, and it is not the least important. In fact, it helps remove dead skin from the massage as well as “debris” accumulated during the night and/or day.

How to feed them?

Washing your hair is good, but nourishing it is even better. Once or twice a month, treat yourself to a little hair mask, which is beneficial for both your scalp and your hair... and your morale.

As I said above, hair is on the front line and victims of numerous attacks over the days. Scorching heat, pouring rain, various styling products, pollution... so many parameters that can damage their appearance.

Therefore, nourishing them is extremely important to revitalize them and make them look better .

How to take care of your hair?

If you scrupulously follow the steps we have just seen, you will normally not need to treat your hair since it will be in perfect health. However, if your routine was not yet perfect or, for one reason or another , your mane is not in the best condition, so you need to take care of it.

Dandruff, impromptu discoloration... all these defects are not necessarily fatal or irreversible. Preventing these risks is essential and most often quite simple: you must adopt rigorous and regular care and, if necessary, treat them specifically.

How to feed yourself?

No, there are no typos. What we eat can affect our hair.

“We are what we eat,” Christophe tells us.

You've probably noticed: you often have oily skin when you eat a double-meat kebab with ketchup and mayo or a Maxi Best-Of menu. Logically, the scalp reacts more or less in the same way...

Hair, no more than your beach body , therefore doesn't like tacos or pizza. Conversely, vegetables and other sources of vitamins B/C will be your best allies for strong and shiny hair.

Foods rich in zinc and iron are also essential.

For what ? Simply because keratin needs these elements to fully assume its role.

So it's not just alcohol that hurts your hair...

Mistakes not to make

Even if you follow the previous recommendations to the letter, certain trivial details can undermine your rigor and damage your hair. I am giving you a small, fairly exhaustive list of the most common mistakes to avoid as much as possible:

• do not wash your hair more than necessary : ​​it is useless or even dangerous to shampoo your hair every day. In fact, washing too frequently can be counterproductive and dry out the hair or, on the contrary, promote oiling of the scalp. For normal hair, two shampoos per week are more than enough. If you have dry hair, one or two weekly washes can be a consistent schedule, accompanied by special care. Oily hair needs more frequent care and requires daily shampooing to reduce over-production of sebum.

A little additional clarification: for frizzy, naturally dry hair, opt for washing every 2/3 days, coupled with moisturizing and nourishing masks and/or conditioners.

• be careful with the hair dryer : it's more practical than a towel, faster than manual drying, rather pleasant in winter... but it's not necessarily a technique to adopt. Indeed, the heat emanating from this tool attacks the scalp, which produces sebum to defend itself. Greasy hair guaranteed, therefore, not to mention the potential burns. If you are a fan of this weapon, keep it away from your skull and keep the temperature as low as possible.

• be reasonable with styling products : the gel suffocates the hair and clogs the pores of the skin on the scalp, which is harmful to your scalp. A dab of matte wax should be enough to model your cut: stick with it... or change the product.

• don't go to bed with sticky hair : if you don't take a shower before going to bed, at least brush/comb a few times to air out your hair.

• be careful with your headgear : you have to let your mane breathe! Therefore, try not to overuse caps, bucket hats and other hats so as not to hinder the oxygenation of your scalp or your blood circulation.

• flee dyes : I know, brown people would like to be blonde and vice versa, but Mother Nature is stronger than our stylistic ambitions. So, create a hair style that matches the nature of your hair... and in accordance with its color. Dyes contain chemicals that are devastating to your hair and, believe me, it's not worth the effort.

With Luca, we wanted to try gray coloring recently, but our hairdressers strongly recommended against it. Christophe explained to me why: " To make a gray, you have to remove all the natural pigments to obtain a platinum before making a lasting color, which degrades the hair. Concretely, it's a bit like if you wanted to tan a skin from white to chocolate in one day: it's possible but very dangerous."

So, we abandoned the idea and settled for our thick brown hair... Italian style.

Improve your hair style...

You have recognized your hair type, you are knowledgeable about the care you need to give it, and you now have a beautiful and silky mane in full health... but have we covered it?

Obviously no, the question remains how to improve what our English-speaking friends call “hairstyle”.

The right questions to ask yourself

Before opting for this or that hairstyle, you need to ask yourself a series of simple questions that will help you determine which one suits you best:

• How much time are you willing to spend on your daily haircut? Whether you're the type to use two combs after getting out of the shower or you prefer to arrange your hair down to the last detail for 20 minutes, this is a parameter to take into account before choosing your hairstyle.

• How often do you want to go to the hairdresser? Whether you love being shampooed or the scissor ordeal is a real anxiety, you need to adapt your hair according to this thought.

• What budget are you ready to commit to your haircut? Equipment, masks, dyes, size, scissors or clippers, massages... not all cuts are equal and do not require the same maintenance: so many elements to consider depending on your wallet.

• What hairstyle is best suited to your clothing style?

• Finally (and most importantly), what hair style do you like?

By answering these questions, you will have a relatively accurate overview of the hairstyle to adopt, consistent with your tastes and your means.

The second step, and arguably the most complicated, is to know if your dream hairstyle can match your face shape.

Choose your hairstyle wisely

Choosing your clothes can be a tricky business, but choosing a hairstyle is another story. Depending on your hair type, you are not completely free to opt for one or the other.

In addition to your hair profile, you should also consider the shape of your face before making a decision. In the same way that you choose a t-shirt based on your build and a pair of glasses based on your facial features, you necessarily determine a haircut by wondering if it will highlight your face.

Come on, I'll explain it to you right away.

Glory to the oval

Having an oval face is a bit like having normal hair or an ordinary body shape: you can afford anything and (almost) anything without taking too many risks.

Indeed, it is the versatile form par excellence , which allows a very large number of hairstyles.

You will recognize an oval face by its broad forehead and rounded chin. It is a well-proportioned and perfectly balanced shape.

For a square cut

If your head looks more like that of a little Lego man, your options are a little more limited, without being too restricted.

Raw temples? Massive jaw? Clean, clean lines? You are concerned!

In this case, we advise you to adopt a relatively short and very precise cut to highlight the raw appearance of your face. You can also stretch it visually by raising your hair against gravity.

Avoid going in circles

A rather narrow forehead and fairly wide jaws are often the main attributes of a round face. If yours meets these criteria, then you will need to opt for a hairstyle that stretches your head lengthwise.

To add volume, opt for aerial cuts that will lengthen the silhouette of your face: arm yourself with wax and send yourself into the air (your hair, at least).

What about the oblong face?

As the name suggests, the oblong face resembles an elongated oval. It is a slender, filiform face , which is easily recognized by its long chin and its narrowness.

As you can imagine, airy hairstyles, which were recommended for round faces, are prohibited here. Your head is already long enough to not stretch it further with a high cut.

Even more, you should avoid cutting the temples short, which will severely accentuate the “eggplant face” phenomenon. .

A face as big as the Ritz...

The so-called “diamond” face is a very particular design and overall quite rare. It characterizes a very special arrangement, featuring a narrow forehead and chin as well as wide cheekbones .

Not 36,000 solutions with this type of structure: you have to add volume to the top of the figure.

Massive blow-drying on long hair, spiky hairstyle, in short: volume!

Geometrics

I'm not drawing you a picture: the triangular face is illustrated by its chin and its wide jaws, as well as its narrow forehead.

How to deal with it? Here again, it is necessary to add volume to the top of the head to calm the “pointed” effect of the top of the face.

Heartbeat

The last face shape, called "heart", has particular characteristics: broad forehead and narrow chin . In idea, we could almost compare it to an inverted triangle.

It is an unusual format that goes well with long hair, which generally compensates for the size of the forehead. That said, other hairstyles can suit this type of face: combed to the side or even pulled back.

Trends of today and tomorrow

Now that you have an idea of ​​the style of hairstyles that you can adopt according to the shape of your face, it remains to be seen whether the one you love will be in vogue in the months to come.

So, I asked Christophe what the fashionable cuts would be by 2018. His answer? There she is !

For 2017, several trends will dominate: that of plus sizes with curly hair and retro style; that of the "animal" - that is to say mid-length cuts, both chic and rebellious - and that of sport mixed with urban, undercut style .

For 2018, I think the shaved head and bleached hair will make a comeback .

Warning: although these trends are in vogue, they should not be adopted at all costs! I also asked Christophe for his opinion on this subject:

In the world of hairdressing as in that of fashion, are all trends worth following?

No, obviously! Everyone must own their own style. Fashion goes out of style too quickly... not style!

Where do these trends come from?

They come mainly from fashion but also from all the media/digital supports that surround us: Internet, TV... It works in cycles but these are evolving. These trends are sometimes misleading because hairstyle should be part of a style: it provides identity and enhances each person in theory.

The final word

If I had to summarize these 6,000 words in one sentence, I would tell you that the most important thing is to determine your hair type . This is really the preliminary step, absolutely crucial. This will allow you to learn how to maintain and care for them properly, in order to have hair in great shape. Finally, style as you wish, according to your personal inspirations and your wardrobe.

In any case, I hope that you took as much pleasure in reading this article as I took in writing it, in particular thanks to the kind and expert participation of Christophe Adric , whom I warmly thank on behalf of all the team.

PS: If you have any questions, don't worry... we'll answer them just below in the comments! 😉