File: how to nourish, style and maintain your hair?

Hey team, will the hairstyle guide be ready soon? Readers are getting impatient!

I swear, you can't imagine how many times I've heard this phrase from Nicolò in recent weeks...

If you've been following BonneGueule for more than 48 hours, you'll definitely know Nicolò, our super community manager. From evening to morning and from morning to evening, only two things occupy his mind: the well-being of the BonneGueule community... and his hair!

To tell you the truth, he spends almost as much time answering your questions as he does (re)doing his hair...

Of course, he was waiting for this guide with undisguised impatience, both to satisfy your numerous requests and to perfect his hairdressing skills.

You know it: hair is not at the heart of the usual concerns at BonneGueule. We help men feel good in their clothes, but not really to take care of their mane...

Since the world of hairdressing is not quite our core business, we therefore relied on the expertise of a professional to write this guide.

One challenge remained: finding THE most competent hairdresser possible, who would share his knowledge in an educational way.

Remembering an old French proverb , I turned to the Artley salon and more particularly Christophe Adric, its artistic director .

The latter kindly agreed to answer my questions, and I thank him warmly. As you read on, I will share them with you at the most appropriate times.

Christophe Adric, hair expert

Hi Christophe. Can you introduce yourself to BonneGueule readers?

"Hello! I am an artistic director at Artley and an image coach for actors, models and public figures.

After multiple professional experiences and numerous trips around the world, I came to Paris, the “City of Lights”, where hairdressing very naturally presented itself to me as a passion.

From then on, I didn't have to look any further, everything was there: know-how and know-how. I had the privilege of working for twenty years for the biggest hair brands around the world, and of teaching my passion to hairdressers and intermittent show business workers in my Hairdressing Academy.

I also provided training to employees of the L'ORÉAL France - Clichy research laboratory. I regularly spoke for UNESCO as part of the "Women and Science" program.

Passionate about art and photography, I always work according to an art of living: cultivating the supreme sophistication, that is to say, keeping it simple and doing it right.

Clothing side , I have a rock style (and the attitude that goes with it), but not in a forced way. It's all about subtlety in order to remain consistent with oneself."

What does your daily work consist of?

Simply put: developing the Artley concept and motivate my staff of experts with all my energy and passion.

It's also about meeting people, revealing a story through their haircut... The most important thing for me is to create, whether through my work at the salon or in fashion.

What are the differences between a hairdresser and a make-up artist? Are these concepts complementary or inseparable?

The hairdresser makes a cut, while the make-up artist tries to adjust his creation to each face. One cannot really go without the other.

What is a good hairdresser? A good make-up artist?

In my opinion, a good hairdresser knows how to listen and look carefully. He gives good advice and displays a high level of professional expertise.

Conversely, I don't think there is a "good face designer" per se. Face design does not accommodate strict rules and you have to know how to go against the main principles if necessary. Indeed, a flaw can be an interesting trait to exploit in order to create character.

Does face design only take into account the face or style in general?

For me, hair is an integral part of the overall style! If your hairdresser hands you the robe without looking at you first, be wary...

(Re)know your hair type

Not all men are equal when it comes to their hair characteristics: it is often a mix between genetic heritage and lifestyle (hygiene, diet, etc.). - Christophe Adric

For men, the hair world is full of mysteries. While these gentlemen often take care of their skin, their figure and their appearance, they tend to neglect the hygiene of their hair, due to a lack of knowledge in this area.

For this reason, I believe it is essential to start at the beginning and review the basics.

Just as you need to know the nature of your skin to care for it, you cannot properly care for your hair without knowing its type .

Understanding your mane is essential to pamper it properly and prevent problems. .

A little anatomy lesson

First of all, we must agree on one point: hair is just like any other hair!

Like a flower, it is composed of three parts of which only one is visible on the surface:

• the shaft: this is the part of the hair that emerges. This is the part that you can style and sculpt on your scalp. This shaft contains a protein, keratin, which results from the accumulation of dead cells that harden Despite its thinness, the stem has 3 layers including the cuticle , the cortex and the marrow .

• the bulb (or hair follicle): it represents the envelope of the root and is located in the dermis. It is within it that new cells are born, pushing the older ones upwards. The older cells die and then make up the stem. Yes, you heard correctly: the visible part of our hair is biologically dead...

• the root: it lives in the heart of the bulb. It is the living part of the hair: it is nourished by the blood capillaries to allow growth.

Concretely, the blood vessels supply the root with nutrients, which allow the hair to produce this famous keratin and grow properly.

Depending on where they are located on the scalp, they grow differently: forward at the forehead, more backward at the nape of the neck, and stiffly on the skull.

It is by following this process that the approximately 130,000 hairs (on average) that populate our heads were born. Even if we naturally lose about fifty each day, there are still enough left to test out ever more incredible hairstyles... provided you know which group you belong to.

These groups are divided into several more or less relevant classifications. There are several dozen of them depending on the country and organization, but I have chosen to present two of them to you because they are very complementary and rather coherent.

Classification by nature of the scalp

This is a fairly classic and very traditional classification, which often goes hand in hand with skin type. We therefore distinguish, without suspense:

• dry hair: the sebaceous gland, which we were talking about earlier, does not produce enough sebum in this case. Also, the scalp is not sufficiently hydrated and the hair is dry, brittle and relatively rough . It is fragile and quite difficult to detangle/style.

• normal hair: everything is fine in this case. The sebaceous gland has worked properly, "and it shows on the outside" as the other would say. As a result, the hair looks great, it is rich, strong and quite shiny (without being oozing). It is then easy to discipline it as you wish.

• oily hair: as you might expect, this is due to excess sebum... The results? Heavy, oily hair that can look quite unpleasant.

André Walker classification

This is a classification that is less well known in France, although it is more so on the other side of the Atlantic. And for good reason, André Walker is none other than the stylist of Oprah Winfrey, queen of US TV. .

In 1999, the latter wrote a book in which he introduced a revolutionary classification which immediately created a buzz among our American friends.

Although it is primarily intended for women, this guide can also be used by men since hair has no gender.

According to André Walker, there are two parameters to consider when categorizing your hair: texture and thickness .

• The texture is rated out of 4: 1 = straight, 2 = wavy, 3 = curly, 4 = frizzy.
• thickness is graded on an increasing scale from A to C.

By combining these two criteria, we obtain 12 possible combinations : 1A; 1B; 1C; 2A; 2B; 2C; 3A; 3B; 3C; 4A; 4B; 4C.

It sounds complicated when you say it like that, but you'll see that once illustrated, it's very clear. Take a look!

Obviously, the actors' hair changes from one film to another (or even from one scene to another) so don't be offended if you've already seen Matthew McConaughey with straight hair or Morgan Freeman with long straight hair...

This is a fairly incomplete comparison whose sole aim is to illustrate the model theorized by André Walker, so that you have a clearer and more faithful idea of ​​it.

"Ok Lucas, I'm 1A, 2B or 4C. Now what do I do?" Well, you move on to the next paragraph. That's it!

Why is it important to know your hair type?

Knowing your hair type may seem trivial, but it is nevertheless essential.

Can you imagine applying creams randomly to your skin, without first determining whether it is rather dry or rather oily? Of course not... and the reasoning should be the same in the case of your hair.

Determining your "hair identity", by crossing the two previous classifications, will allow you to make an appropriate choice:

• the care to adopt for your hair : depending on your type, you will have to deal differently with the products and other masks to eliminate excess sebum or restore softness and shine.

• the shampoos and conditioners best suited to your mane: never rely on the classic 5 in 1 hair and body soap... it saves you 5 minutes but does you more harm than good in the long term.

• the most consistent care for your scalp : it is essential to nourish it, rid it of impurities and relax it.

To illustrate my point, I will give you an example that I know quite well: mine!

First of all, I have normal hair. . As for André Walker, I am more on a 1C. , that is, straight, thick hair.

Knowing this, I opt for a classic, neutral shampoo, without a volumizing effect so as not to thicken my hair further, and I do not apply sebum-regulating products.

I also don't use conditioner since its use is more intended to repair dry and damaged hair or hair lacking volume.

In addition, my hairdresser applies a scrub and scalp mask every three to four weeks, which helps to eliminate dead skin, promote blood circulation and... relax!

Taking care of your hair

As we have just seen, knowing your hair type is essential to take care of it . But in concrete terms, how do you do it on a daily basis? That's what I'll explain to you right away...

Christophe's analysis

We know that those with thick hair would like it to be thin, that curly hair would like it not to be curly, that blondes would like to be brown and vice versa... In short, can we fight against the nature of our hair?

Yes and no. It all depends on the priority and the effort (in time and money) that one wishes to provide. In cinema: everything is possible! In everyday life, it is not always so simple. The question would be: should one fight against one's nature or make it an asset?

When it comes to clothing, a good wardrobe is based on good basics. What about the “ideal toiletry bag”? What are the essential products for taking care of your hair?

Like a wardrobe, each kit should be different. However, there are a few invariants including: a good shampoo, a TIGI flat brush, a 3-row boar bristle brush, a comb, salt water spray, non-greasy flexible modeling paste, a hair dryer, a pocket mirror (for the side and back) and possibly a mini clipper…

The Internet is full of "grandmother's tips" for caring for your hair and giving it volume, shine, softness... Avocados, eggs, honey, clay, everything goes. What do you think?

It's like looking for a cure on the Internet: it's very risky. You absolutely have to check the origin of the text, the credibility of this person and see if it really suits you. The diagnosis is very important, it's 50% of the success.

How to wash them?

Here again, I asked Christophe for his (informed) opinion...

We hear all sorts of conflicts about how often and how to wash our hair. Can you close this debate and tell us when to shampoo?

It's like the body, the scalp must be clean so as not to clog the pores of the skin. We should wash our hair at least every two days in big cities because pollution and odors are largely captured in our hair and skin.

You should not wash or strip your hair, just gently clean it to leave the natural lipid film that protects us.

Now that we have a general idea of ​​the frequency, we need to know how to wash our "hair"! The ideal would be to rely on cold water. That said, I'm like you: taking a cold shower every morning (especially in winter) does not particularly excite me...

If you can't opt ​​for icy water, make sure you don't subject your hair to a boiling bath and, if possible, opt for a lukewarm temperature so as not to damage it.

Next, you need to move on to shampooing. Here, don't hesitate to massage your scalp using small circular movements. This way, you combine business with pleasure, since in addition to being enjoyable, this technique improves blood circulation and cleans your scalp thoroughly.

Rinsing is the next step, and it is not the least important. Indeed, it allows you to evacuate the dead skin from the massage as well as the "debris" accumulated during the night and/or the day.

How to feed them?

Washing your hair is good, but nourishing it is even better. Once or twice a month, allow yourself a little hair mask, beneficial for your scalp as well as your hair... and your morale.

As I said above, hair is on the front line and is subject to numerous attacks over the days. Scorching heat, pouring rain, various styling products, pollution... so many parameters that can damage their appearance.

Therefore, feeding them is extremely important to revitalize them and give them a better appearance .

How to care for your hair?

If you follow the steps we have just seen carefully, you will normally not need to treat your hair since it will be in perfect health. However, if your routine was not yet up to scratch or, for one reason or another, , your mane is not at its best, so you need to take care of it.

Dandruff, impromptu discolorations... all these defects are not necessarily fatal or irreversible. Preventing these risks is essential and most often quite simple: you must adopt rigorous and regular care and, if necessary, treat them specifically.

How to feed yourself?

No, there is no typo. What we eat can affect our hair.

“We are what we eat,” Christophe tells us.

You've probably noticed: you often have oily skin when you eat a double meat kebab with ketchup and mayo or a Maxi Best-Of menu. Logically, the scalp reacts more or less the same way...

Hair, no more than your beach body , therefore does not like tacos or pizzas. Conversely, vegetables and other sources of vitamins B/C will be your best allies for strong and shiny hair.

Foods rich in zinc and iron are also essential.

Why? Simply because keratin needs these elements to fully assume its role.

Which proves that it's not just alcohol that hurts your hair...

Mistakes to avoid

Even if you follow the above recommendations to the letter, some trivial details can undermine your rigor and damage your hair. Here is a short, fairly exhaustive list of the most common mistakes to avoid as much as possible:

• Do not wash your hair more than necessary : ​​it is useless and even dangerous to shampoo every day. In fact, washing too frequently can be counterproductive and dry out the hair or, on the contrary, promote oiliness of the scalp. For normal hair, two shampoos per week are more than enough. If you have dry hair, one to two weekly washes can be a consistent rhythm, accompanied by special care. Oily hair needs more frequent care and requires daily shampooing to reduce the overproduction of sebum.

Small additional clarification: for frizzy, naturally dry hair, opt for washing every 2/3 days, combined with hydrating and nourishing masks and/or conditioners.

• Be careful with the hair dryer : it's more practical than a towel, faster than manual drying, rather pleasant in winter... but it's not a technique to adopt. Indeed, the heat emanating from this tool attacks the scalp, which produces sebum to defend itself. Greasy hair is guaranteed, therefore, not to mention potential burns. If you are a fan of this weapon, keep it away from your scalp and favor a temperature as low as possible.

• Be reasonable with styling products : gel suffocates the hair and clogs the pores of the scalp, which is bad for your scalp. A dab of matte wax should be enough to shape your cut: stick with it... or change products.

• Don't go to bed with your hair caked on : If you don't take a shower before going to bed, at least give it a few brush/comb strokes to air out your hair.

• Be careful with headwear : you have to let your mane breathe! So, try not to overuse caps, bobs and other hats so as not to hinder the oxygenation of your scalp or your blood circulation.

• Avoid dyes : I know, brunettes would like to be blonde and vice versa, but Mother Nature is stronger than our stylistic ambitions. So, create a hair style that is in keeping with the nature of your hair... and in harmony with its color. Dyes contain chemicals that are devastating for your hair and, believe me, it's not worth the effort.

Luca and I wanted to try gray coloring recently, but our hairdressers strongly advised us against it. Christophe explained to me why: " To make gray, you have to remove all the natural pigments to obtain a platinum before creating a lasting color, which damages the hair. In concrete terms, it's a bit like trying to tan skin from white to chocolate in one day: it's possible but very dangerous."

So we gave up on the idea and settled for our thick brown hair... Italian style.

Improve your hair style...

You've identified your hair type, you know all about the care you need to give it, and now you have a beautiful, silky, healthy mane... but have we covered everything?

Obviously not, the question remains how to improve what our English-speaking friends call "hairstyle".

The right questions to ask yourself

Before opting for a particular hairstyle, you need to ask yourself a series of simple questions that will help you determine which one suits you best:

• How much time are you willing to dedicate to your haircut on a daily basis? Whether you're the type to comb your hair twice after getting out of the shower or you prefer to spend 20 minutes styling your hair down to the last detail, this is something to consider before choosing your hairstyle.

• How often do you like to go to the hairdresser? Whether you love getting your hair washed or the ordeal of scissors is a real pain, you need to adapt your hair according to this reflection.

• What budget are you willing to commit to your "haircut"? Equipment, masks, dyes, trimming, scissors or clippers, massages... not all cuts are equal and do not require the same maintenance: so many elements to consider depending on your wallet.

• Which hairstyle is best suited to your clothing style?

• Finally (and most importantly), what is the hair style that you like?

By answering these questions, you will have a relatively accurate overview of the hairstyle to adopt, consistent with your tastes and your means.

The second step, probably the most complicated, is to know if the hairstyle of your dreams can match the shape of your face.

Choosing the right hairstyle

Choosing your clothes can be tricky, but choosing a hairstyle is a different matter. Depending on your hair type, you are not completely free to choose one or the other.

In addition to your hair profile, you should also consider your face shape before making a decision. In the same way that you choose a T-shirt based on your build and a pair of glasses based on your face, you necessarily determine a haircut by asking yourself if it will enhance your face.

Come on, I'll explain it to you right away.

Glory to the oval ball

Having an oval face is a bit like having normal hair or an ordinary body shape: you can get away with anything and (almost) nothing without taking too many risks.

In fact, it is the versatile shape par excellence , which allows for a very large number of hairstyles.

You will recognize an oval face by its broad forehead and rounded chin. It is a well-proportioned and perfectly balanced shape.

For a bob cut

If your head looks more like a little Lego man, your options are a little more limited, but not too limited.

Rough temples? Massive jawline? Sharp, clean lines? This applies to you!

In this case, we advise you to adopt a relatively short and very precise cut to claim the raw aspect of your face. You can also visually stretch it by raising your hair against gravity.

Avoid going around in circles

A rather narrow forehead and fairly wide jaws are often the main attributes of a round face. If yours meets these criteria, then you will need to opt for a hairstyle that stretches your head in the length direction.

To add volume, opt for airy cuts that will lengthen the silhouette of your face: arm yourself with wax and send yourself into the air (your hair, at least).

What about the oblong face?

As its name suggests, the oblong face resembles an elongated oval. It is a slender, filiform face , easily recognizable by its long chin and narrowness.

As you might expect, airy hairstyles, which were recommended for round faces, are banned here. Your head is already long enough without stretching it out any further with a high cut.

Furthermore, you should avoid cutting your hair short at the temples, which will severely accentuate the "eggplant face" phenomenon. .

A face as big as the Ritz...

The so-called "diamond" face is a very particular and quite rare design. It characterizes a very special arrangement, featuring a narrow forehead and chin as well as wide cheekbones .

Not 36,000 solutions with this type of structure: you have to add volume to the top of the figure.

Massive blow-dry on long hair, spiky hairstyle, in short: vol-ume!

Geometriks

I won't draw you a picture: the triangular face is illustrated by its wide chin and jaw, as well as its narrow forehead.

How to deal with it? Here again, you need to add volume to the top of the skull to calm the "pointed" effect of the upper face.

Favorite

The last face shape, called "heart", has particular characteristics: wide forehead and narrow chin . In theory, we could almost compare it to an inverted triangle.

This is an unusual format that works well with long hair, which generally compensates for the size of the forehead. That said, other hairstyles can suit this type of face: combed to the side or even pulled back.

Today's and tomorrow's trends

Now that you have an idea of ​​the hairstyles you can adopt depending on the shape of your face, the question remains whether the one you have your heart set on will be in fashion in the months to come.

So, I asked Christophe what the fashionable haircuts would be by 2018. His answer? Here it is!

For 2017, several trends will dominate: that of large sizes with curly hair and retro style; that of the "animal" - that is to say mid-length cuts, both chic and rebellious - and that of sport mixed with urban, undercut style .

For 2018, I think the shaved head and bleached hair will make a comeback .

Warning: if these trends are in vogue, they are not to be adopted at all costs! I asked Christophe for his opinion on this subject:

In the world of hairdressing as in that of fashion, are all trends good to follow?

No, of course not! Everyone has to embrace their own style. Fashion goes out of fashion way too quickly... but style doesn't!

Where do these trends come from?

They come mainly from fashion but also from all the media/digital supports that surround us: Internet, TV... It works in cycles but these are evolving. These trends are sometimes misleading because hairstyle should be part of a style: it brings an identity and values ​​each person in theory.

The final word

If I had to summarize these 6,000 words in one sentence, I would say that the most important thing is to determine your hair type . This is really the preliminary step, absolutely crucial. This will allow you to learn how to maintain and care for them properly, in order to have hair in great shape. Finally, style it as you wish, according to your personal inspirations and your wardrobe.

In any case, I hope that you enjoyed reading this article as much as I enjoyed writing it, particularly thanks to the kind and expert participation of Christophe Adric , whom I warmly thank on behalf of the entire team.

PS: If you have any questions, don't worry... we'll answer them just below in the comments! 😉