To avoid missteps, check the following points:
1
The seams end at the shoulder. And you can fit a finger between your neck and collar. No more, no less.
2
The shirt is fitted at the chest. Little to no tension on the buttons.
3
There is no excess fabric in the armpits and back. Be careful, perfection does not exist!
4
Your sleeves stop at the ulna (wrist bone).
ITALIAN COLLAR
Often wide, it will be very flared to leave room for a wide tie as well. A model that is perfectly suited to bureaucratic spheres. It is a very formal collar.
FRENCH COLLAR
Recognizable by its opening less than 90°, it is straight, short and very versatile. This collar is compatible with wearing a suit, but you can also wear it as is.
AMERICAN COLLAR
Other less frequent passes:
CUTAWAY COLLAR
More flared than its Italian counterpart, it highlights the tie or bow tie you wear.
OFFICER COLLAR
Often associated with the mandarin collar, it is intended to be casual and must remain free of any accessories.
CLUB COLLAR
It is the male equivalent of the Peter Pan collar: informal and dandy-inspired .
HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR MATERIAL?
For formal shirts:
POPLIN
A very tight and silky fabric, even shiny. It is the most formal of all.
THREAD BY THREAD
More casual than poplin, it's a good compromise.
TWILL
A smooth and consistent fabric. Very classic.
For more casual pieces:
OXFORD
It is a fabric with grain, often with a well-ventilated weave. Perfect for all-season shirts.
CHAMBRAY
Much more casual, chambray is woven with a colored thread and a white thread, for an interesting visual effect.
FLANNEL
It is a fabric that has been brushed to give it a light down, providing softness and warmth. It is casual.
THE SHIRT THROUGH THE ERA
Over the centuries, the shirt has undergone many transformations.
Used as men's underwear (and a means of social distinction) since Antiquity, it was transformed from the 16th century onwards, to become the iconic garment that we know today at the end of the 19th century.
Now democratized, it has many variations: on the cuffs (musketeer, simple, beveled), on the collar (French, English, American, button-down, Italian, cutaway, Mao, officer), etc.
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT COLLAR?
Nothing too complicated. For your information, there are 3 dominant passes: