Hi, it's Nicolo, and it's my turn to speak in our summer format "Fashion at the Beach"!
Today we are going to talk about CHEMISETTE, also called "short sleeve shirt".
Those who were already interested in sape in the 2000s-2010s will have noticed: this piece has been propelled over the last five years from the rank of "piece banned because of its tackiness" to "absolutely cool".
In fact, it has gained so much popularity that I don't even know if it is still rare enough to be considered a stylistic "risk-taking".
However, just because it has become common does not mean that one is safe from making a bad choice: in the past, this piece has had many failings that have ended up tarnishing its reputation...
So we're going to look together at each point that you need to check to make sure you have a really cool shirt, and one that will stay that way !
1. Materials
The material of a blouse is easy in general terms: it's pretty much the same as for a shirt. Cotton, linen, hemp, ramie, and obviously, any form of mixture of these.
The base, no risk with that.
For the most daring of style (and the biggest budgets, too), the lightweight silk shirt is the way to go.
The point where it gets complicated is when we come to synthetic or artificial materials, particularly when they want to imitate the shine of silk...
2. The cut: Loose or fitted?
In the past, the rare shirts that we saw worn by style lovers were often fitted, even very tight. No doubt this was to give something "young" to the piece and to get rid of its retro connotation.
Today, on the contrary, this is the effect that is most often desired, and shirts are often worn loose, even oversized.
Notice how more and more often shirts have this shoulder drop forming a sort of "triangle".
However, in my opinion it is still possible to wear them relatively tight, as long as you exercise moderation.
3. Pockets
A pocket on a shirt is not obligatory, but it often plays an important role.
It helps to clarify the casual style that goes with the piece.
Right away, the big pockets give a feeling that makes you think: "Come on, little shirt, you and I are going on an adventure... Aa ...
By the way, if you want to refine your view of shirt and overshirt pockets, I wrote an episode of "Compendium" here that analyzes in detail all the stylistic effects that different pocket shapes can provide.
4. The collar and its proportions
Today, the Cuban collar has become almost automatic on the shirt, whereas it was rightly feared for its 70's-80's connotation in the past.
A more generous collar is what I prefer. You still have to pay attention to the proportions with the face, though...
Even if it gives the shirt a strong identity that clearly distinguishes it from other shirts. By playing on its proportions of its points, we can obtain very different renderings, which will go from a more "street chic" vision of the piece, to a look more in line with classic elegance.
5. Choose the right patterns
If there is one element that represents "an art" rather than a science, it is the choice of a motif.
There are so many possibilities that it is impossible to foresee them all, and to propose exhaustive rules.
Very simple colors (white and blue), classic pattern of moderate size... "Easy" level. ( Officine Générale )
However, there are a number of questions to ask yourself when you are faced with a pattern:
- Size, scale : the smaller it is, the more the pattern "blends" like a texture. The bigger it is, the more it captures attention.
- The "abstract" or "figurative" nature : is the drawing abstract or does it represent an animal, a flower...? When it represents something, you also carry the connotations (very subjective by the way) that go with this drawing.
- Is it a "classic" pattern ? (Stripes, checks, etc.)
- The universes to which these drawings refer : a Hawaiian motif is relatively well identified and easy to "read", a "fire-breathing dragon" motif, probably a little less so.
- The level of contrast between colors : a shirt with white, sky blue, gray, beige and pale yellow will probably be easier to wear than a shirt with bright red and apple green. However, the first has five colors while the second has two...
Many colors, more daring prints... More "advanced" level. But it's impressive... (Kapital)
And if you pay attention to it while keeping a principle of moderation and balance in mind , you will be able to satisfy your desires for originality while respecting your own limits.
6. My vision of the ideal shirt
Over time, I find it increasingly difficult to believe that there is "ONE" piece that is ideal for me.
Instead, I imagine a "function" that the piece needs to fulfill in my style, and look at what would be ideal to do it.
So of course, I have at least two "ideal shirts in mind": one that should act as a strong piece , with patterns, and one that should be an elegant basic with character.
Whenever I see Cuccinelli, I always say to myself "Ah, it's simple, but exactly what I was looking for", then I understand that it comes from them, I look at the price. And I close the tab.
7. My brand recommendations
In roughly ascending order of price, here are some safe places to find shirts.
Faherty
Kestin Hare
Corridor
Scott Fraser Collection
Capital
In this video I am wearing...
- A Percival Menswear shirt.
- Oliver Peoples MP2 Sun "Vintage Edition" sunglasses (Made in Japan line). The lenses have been modified.
