Choosing a good DENIM fabric – (Very) Well Dressed #2

Dear friends, here we go again for a new episode of (Very) Well Dressed!

Today, we're going to do a little (over)refresher on the basics : we're going to talk about jeans.

Not their cut, their manufacture or their style but only their fabric, and how to choose it well.

Because this is probably the most important thing in a pair of jeans: a good fabric, it's the central element that distinguishes the good from the mediocre. We'll obviously start by talking about raw indigo fabrics, which are a bit of a basic piece to have, but faded, black, gray and even white or ecru jeans won't be left out!

Each of these types of denim has its own specificities, and little tips to know to choose them well.

1. The right canvas

We start with the basics to recognize a good canvas: the visual aspect. And of course, we must talk about the indigo raw first, since it will serve as a starting point to learn to recognize other beautiful canvases.

A beautiful raw denim canvas is at the same time "deep" (that is to say that its color is intense), "luminous" (exposed to direct light, the canvas reflects) and "nuanced" (its blue is composed of various shades.)

2. Weight and rigidity

Raw denim is known for its stiff, cardboard-like appearance when new (which always surprises newbies).

The weight of the fabric is also an important factor: not only because it allows you to estimate what season a pair of jeans is intended for , but also to assess its robustness, and, in a certain way, its quality.

Heavier jeans are not necessarily better quality, and there are some very nice "summer" fabrics that are deliberately designed to be lighter.

However, lower-end brands prefer lighter fabrics mainly because they are less expensive.

And brands that do not provide weight information tend to design their products for a less demanding clientele (at least, less demanding than you after this video 😏).

For the joke: the famous Naked & Famous raw jeans that broke thickness records, so much so that they stood up on their own. (Rest assured, this is a special case)

3. Selvedge or not?

How can we talk about denim without addressing the issue of “selvedge”?

This word, which was completely unknown to the general public 20 years ago, is now on the tip of every pen in the specialist media, and can be seen attached to jeans of all price ranges.

We will also talk about the most recognized countries of origin for denim.

Selvedge edging... Do these simple little white strips at the edge of the canvases guarantee quality?

4. The case of the washed out

We will see the three most common types of washed blues: "rinse", "stone" and "bleach".

And why there is one of the three that I recommend less than the others.

Obviously, at the risk of stating the obvious, we will point out that when it comes to fading, a certain sobriety remains necessary to avoid falling into the nightmare zone of the worst trends of the late 90s...

Bleached jeans are a piece with great potential, as long as you avoid very rough washes (which have tarnished their reputation in the past, including in our columns).

4. The case of white jeans , light blue jeans, black jeans , and gray jeans...

Did you think we would only talk about blue? No, don't worry, the other colors are also covered.

For example, I'll explain why most gray jeans aren't worth the detour in my opinion... And how to find gray jeans that are an exception to the rule! (tip: it's linked to the industrial technique that makes gray denim possible).

I will tell you what advantages and disadvantages raw black canvases have compared to indigo canvases.

And how do you recognize a good white canvas when, in reality... At first glance, you don't notice any difference from one canvas to another. (Well yes, it's all white).

Enjoy watching!

PS: In this video I am wearing...

• A BonneGueule cotton & camel tee .
• A Momotaro denim jacket.