I have always had the greatest difficulty choosing my shoes. Not my sneakers , nor my boots , all that has already been widely discussed on BonneGueule.
I'm talking to you about leather shoes. The one that is worn to go to a wedding, an event at Buckingham Palace, or even a wedding at Buckingham Palace. But also for those who are not invited to the wedding, to go to work. Finally, you understood me. 🙂
Lost between the monopolistic marketing of large luxury houses, the omnipresence of ready-to-wear brands and, among them, the more discreet offering of manufacturing workshops; it is not easy to navigate. When I manage to set a budget, my anxiety becomes “ Will I regret my money in 6 months?” In 1 year? »
So of course, you know English shoes with Church's, Crockett & Jones and many others. You also know Italian shoes well (not those from the St Ouen flea market). But what about Spanish shoes? Are the Spanish eternally condemned to be represented by Zara or… Desigual? Especially not.
Luckily for them , by the way.
Let's make presentations
Monge. No, not the Place Parisienne. This is the name of this Spanish brand (its creator is called Pedro Monge), which represents a solid alternative in the world of men's shoes .
Monge revisits classic models with a contemporary eye: the shapes are more elaborate and a bit less classic than those of institutional brands.
A welcome modern “twist” that refreshes the models
sometimes very ceremonial and dapper of men's shoes.
We feel that the designer has the motivation to create a design that he or his friends could wear: it is with this concern that the designer designs his collections, a philosophy which for us is essential. It is then easy to understand where the names of the shoes come from. Chuck, Antoine and Fernando, Mr. Monge's loyal friends, all had a shoe created in reference to their own tastes!
Add to that quality manufacturing, based on ancestral Spanish know-how, and you will quickly forget the rest.
After several years designing shoes, Mr. Monge decided to take up the challenge and produce his own shoes, creating his brand in 2012.
Based in Mallorca - where leatherworking has been a true tradition since the Middle Ages - this very local know-how, combined with contemporary design, gives Monge shoes a strong personality.
These manufacturing details that make the difference
I had a fascinating discussion with Mr. Monge about the selection of materials, which represent the essential criterion of quality of a shoe. By combining the best materials with an international vision of style, we give freedom of interpretation which does not confine the design to a representative style.
This is what I sometimes criticize about English shoes, which give a very… English style.
All production is handmade in Majorca , by several families who have passed the torch for generations. We are far from mass production machines, hundreds of square meters of workshop and the atmosphere of productivity at all costs.
It is the attention to detail, and the time spent on each shoe, which often makes the difference: by leaving, for example, the wooden mold placed inside the shoe for the time it takes for the leather takes its shape ( note from Geoffrey: this wooden piece is precisely called... the "form" ).
Simply taking the time brings a different experience, as the leather can slowly take its final shape. So, despite the constraints of everyday life, it will last longer. This is an example of what artisans sometimes call respect for leather.
Today, we use more synthetic materials which will stand on their own, at least on the store shelf, and do not need time to make. But after a few hours with your shoes on, many creases will appear.
There are more than 200 different operations in the construction of a pair of shoes like Monge's. It is not only the quality of the materials, nor the attention to detail, that allows Monge to differentiate itself from other manufacturers, it is also the craftsmen who are placed at the very heart of the manufacturing process. They are capable of carrying out very specific operations, where other more industrial workshops will not have the advantage of well-trained workers (a rare commodity).
And the price of these shoes?
The price range is around 300 - 400 euros, depending on the model. Rather common when you look at this quality range. But what difference? This brand is aimed at an audience that obviously wants a guarantee of quality. But to go further, I asked Mr. Monge the question: “ What justifies the price of your shoes? »
I transcribe his response here: “What determines the price of shoes is first and foremost the traditional and professional manufacturing process. But also certain details, like the use of the best leathers, and hidden things, like the pieces of leather between the sole and the upper, where other brands put cardboard. Or the heel, which is made here with real leather, unlike most shoe brands”
So, you will have understood, he attaches great importance to not taking his clients for pigeons. And then, putting pieces of cardboard in shoes of this price, or even more expensive, is downright theft. However, this is a little-reported reality, since it is a process used by brands that belong to large luxury groups, and which continue to tout the authenticity of products by increasing their margin on hidden details.
Very often, the customer who takes out his wallet to treat himself will buy a pair which will have been made with the imperative of saving on manufacturing costs . The price is only a positioning of the brand in the high-end niche, so it is with pieces of cardboard and leather which is nothing exceptional that the customer will walk. Immediate impact: shoe longevity and comfort. The heel will sag from the inside and all the cushioning will be lost within a few months. Nice investment, right?
Brogu shoes in Cognac leather - Ernesto model - 380 euros.
I have already observed a very interesting practice on an enthusiast forum. This involves purchasing, together, a pair of shoes by one of their members who works in a shoe manufacturing workshop. This member will receive the pair, and disassemble the shoe piece by piece, to expose the “ingredients” that make it up. He then posts all the photos on the forum.
Note from Benoit: in France, it is the De Pied en Cap and En Grande Pompe forums that dismantle shoes.
The advantage of this technique is that it is possible to know when these hidden details are present, and tells members about the credibility of the brand. Each member will have invested around thirty euros, to avoid the risk of investing more in a poorly manufactured pair. And believe me (and you can check), these are brands that sell their models for 300 euros minimum. It makes you think.
We are faced with an honest quality/price ratio from Monge, even if I did not have the heart to take apart my pair of shoes to verify the words of the gentleman…
Test of Monge grained leather derbies
This is the Scott derby model (yes, derby does not take S in the plural).
Barely unpacked, I notice that the reflections of the light embrace the leather and reveal its full quality.
When Pedro contacted me, he warned me of a certain delay in getting my shoes. I received my pair after 2 months. In our era of 24-hour delivery, it was a pleasure to rediscover waiting for a product. A bit like waiting for Christmas!
Of course, you shouldn't be in a hurry when this happens, but we are dealing with a " made to order " service: each pair will be created only to the customer's order. This has the advantage of reducing the risk of unsold items, and also allows some adaptations to be made following the customer's request 😉
For the choice of size, I chose a pair in 10 1/2, I am 45-46 on average. I definitely should have gone half a size smaller, but I'll solve the problem with an extra insole. Why did I choose this model? Grained leather . I didn't want to maintain the shoes too often, and this is a little less noticeable when the leather is not smooth but grained ;). The pair is also less precious this way, making it more versatile.
Color: brown. The leather takes on different shades depending on the lighting: it is the same color as in the photos on the site. There are other colors but black brings too much formality and brown is more versatile. Combine brown leather shoes with more casual outfits, but be careful, black remains essential for more formal occasions.
The curve respects the harmony and balance of the shoe.
Once my package arrived, I opened the box immediately. The first thing I noticed was the quality of the leather. He is “ above the sun ” as Gill would say. I already have a few pairs of quality brands sold for over 400 euros per pair: Dries Van Noten, Common Projects, Heschung, etc., and for comparison, we are on the same range of leather . This is how we recognize the seriousness of the brand. Grained leather is so soft and rich, it's a pleasure to touch.
When faced with a leather product, use your senses .
Trust your sense of smell, touch and sight to tell you the truth about leather. With practice, a quick glance will immediately make you recognize quality leather from cheap leather, or fake leather.
It's easy: open the doors of designers, luxury houses or a workshop to familiarize yourself with this material. We still see far too many shoes that are visually too cheap even though their price is in 3 figures, with stores on every street corner that are always full. Like Hugo B. or Paul S. not to mention them. Certainly familiar with pieces of cardboard.
The refinement of leather, manual production,
the reassuring thickness of the heel.
The inside of the shoe is hand signed with the size, model name and serial number. Special attention, which anchors the service in artisanal and quality production.
You will observe the heel which is firmly fixed and composed of several compact layers of leather.
The edges of the shoe are not sharp and conform to the shape of the foot, without pressing against the skin.
The shoe weighs a certain amount, it's true. It's even reassuring in fact, it's not a light and fragile split leather, with a composite sole.
A solidly sealed sole. We can see the nails in the heel,
itself composed of several layers .
Note from Benoit: the photo is not great in terms of lighting,
but we can clearly see the very clean finishes.
The heel is nailed on, the sole securely attached to the rest of the shoe, and we're done! The shoes are very elegant and balanced. The model has been worked in this direction, in order to be the final touch of the look in which they are integrated. Because, as you already know, shoes are not an accessory but the keystone of your outfit.
To convince yourself, imagine a pair of brogues in pleated and shiny leather which completes a formal outfit, composed of a quality and very beautifully made blazer. The result would be painful for the eyes, wouldn't it? So if you're not ready to spend 300 euros, jump on the "classified ads" on forums, private sales, or brands that are cheaper but offer honest quality. We offer many alternatives for limited budgets at BonneGueule, but remember that miracles do not exist, and that you will have to invest once and for all when you can afford it.
Furthermore, do not hesitate to contact Pedro by email. He will be able to advise you or, why not, suggest adaptations to his models, which are not necessarily available online 😉
By my own admission, I am less sensitive to moccasins, but I must admit that I have never (never, ever) seen a moccasin like that. A brand that manages to make me love moccasins is a brand that deserves my attention.
Likewise, the high-top boot models (for the Fall/Winter season) are stylish and have a truly characteristic design, which gives character to the shoes and is not found in a copied/butchered model at the local Zara. This is definitely my next purchase from Monge!
A bold and easily wearable mix of materials, no matter the shade . The Chuck model is available with many variations every fall! Note from Benoit: the reflections of the leather are very beautiful.
Finally, Monge has a rather small range, on which it has chosen to concentrate to offer studied and mastered models.
Thus, it avoids multiplying tasks and dispersing costly investments. If you are looking for a reliable pair of shoes with character, you will find good choices at Monge, as long as you like the creative touch when you go beyond the few sober models.
Pedro told me about the arrival of a pair of absolutely sublime boots (the Robert) for next winter. If you're planning on purchasing some fancy combat boots this Fall (on a budget), maybe you'd like to see what's coming.
You can ask Pedro for the lookbook if the suspense is killing you, the contacts are on his site.
SO ? Are you sure it's still worth buying a pair from a brand that has 500 stores in France and that cuts corners on quality? We have proven it to you with Monge : long live the real manufacturing workshops!
