Point de Paris or the birth of a shoe brand

It is with particular joy that we, the Point de Paris team, present our project to you today and tell you about our adventure... Because when four shoe enthusiasts decide to launch their own brand, there are many adventures and anecdotes.

Before going any further, let me make the introductions:

• Jonathan, President and Product Expert.
  He is certainly the most snobbish and Ayatollesque of the group. According to him, we should all wear brown square-toed brogues. We're trying to get him to wear other pairs but it's complicated...
  A long-time enthusiast, he pushed his vice to the point of taking a year off to train with a bootmaker and make his own pairs. This gave him an encyclopedic knowledge of the product on which we base our project.
• Raphaël, in charge of the administrative center.
  The expression “the devil is in the details” describes it best. He is indeed known to ask the impossible on the part of the craftsmen.
  Raphaël takes care of quality control and I can guarantee you that he is uncompromising. A lawyer by training, he will provide very good advice for anyone who wants to develop a formal and distinguished look.
• Guillaume, the web manager.
  The most gentleman farmer , without a doubt. I've never met anyone who wears a tweed suit so well, even in summer! Guillaume knows how to remain elegant in all circumstances, even when riding his Triumph.
  A slightly outdated epicurean, it is our provincial touch. A general engineer by training, he takes care of our website, planning management and our logistics solutions.
• Charlie, in charge of sales and marketing (writer of this article).
  My associates consider me a bohemian because I always stop at the bar to sip a Monaco on my way home from the market and play Molkky at the slightest ray of sunshine... Just like you, I like to know what I'm buying and can spend hours scouring the forums to find the rare gem. I consider shoes to be the centerpiece of an outfit, the one that gives the most style.

The birth of a group of enthusiasts

The Internet preserves everything and on the occasion of this article I found traces of our first exchanges on the famous En Grande Pompe forum from 2013. We did not yet know each other but shared the desire to understand the characteristics of a beautiful garment, a nice pair of shoes, to buy better . This thirst for learning brought us together and still drives us today.

Following a passionate discussion about the manufacturing methods of the Vass brand, I offered to organize a trip to Budapest in June 2015, open to all. The objectives were to visit their workshop and meet David Balazic, a French bootmaker who settled in Hungary following his apprenticeship.

Barely knowing each other, the four of us - accompanied by a stranger who will become a great friend - found ourselves in Budapest to discover Austro-Hungarian manufacturing processes and add a few (many) gems to our wardrobes.
We didn't know it yet but this trip was the first in a series with the desire to meet the best makers, visit their factories and expand our shoe collections.

The creation of the project

Back in Paris, we continue to see each other very frequently to share our passion. Shoes remain our favorite subject and we are more than ever in search of the ideal pair: the one with uncompromising specifications and an affordable price. Sweet dream !

At this time, Jonathan took advantage of a sabbatical semester to learn the basics of bootmaking from a former Berluti workshop manager. Over the months, formal work, patronage and assembly no longer hold any secrets for him.

Thanks to his new contacts in this environment and seduced by his exciting stories, we took the plunge and had our first pair of custom-made shoes made. A unique experience, from taking measurements to final reception. The feeling of support and the level of finishing are incredible.

The world of classic shoes is made up of artisan shoemakers and ready-to-wear brands. Industrialization imposes numerous compromises in manufacturing techniques, regardless of the price range.

For example, almost no brands offer long heel counters and very few use leather heel counters. However, these elements considerably improve the longevity and comfort of the shoes. Although the ready-to-wear offering is wide, the finish, materials and durability are generally far from bootmaking standards.

From the excitement of our custom-made pairs to the project of creating our own brand, there is only one step. Or rather a drink! During a drunken evening in October 2015, I asked Jonathan what he was waiting for to get started: he had the desire, the skills and the contacts. His snobbery is not only flawed, it makes him someone who is uncompromising when it comes to quality and style.

Glass after glass, we end up lifting the taboo on our desire to create the shoe brand of our dreams. If this project was in our heads, we never mentioned it for fear of diving in… It was a certainty, for us as for Guillaume and Raphaël. We still need a computer scientist and a lawyer - lawyer, my apologies Master! - in a team, especially when they are also passionate about beautiful shoes.

The first months of the business

After regaining our senses and confirming that we all wanted to embark on the adventure, the time to get to work quickly came. Believe me, creating a brand requires a huge investment, both temporal and financial. Particularly when creating shoes, the multiplicity of sizes generates very significant costs.

We chose to keep our respective jobs because above all we wanted to have fun and avoid financial constraints imposing compromises on the final product. The meetings therefore occupied our evenings and weekends. I remember them with nostalgia.... They lasted until the end of the night because there were so many things to think about.

We imagined everything: different ranges, hand soles, customizable stopping points, sales only by pre-order and even opening a physical store. Our team has a big advantage: we have complementary skills and our friendship allows us to get through difficult times and disagreements. On the other hand, as we are all big shoe nerds, every decision is close to our hearts and there are a lot of details to discuss.

This initial extravagance allowed us to define the guideline from which we will no longer deviate: charismatic shapes, a construction as close as possible to the bootmaking tradition for a very French style. We quickly built our range around two shapes and seven models with the aim of offering the ideal weekly planner, made up of timeless and elegant patterns in all circumstances.

In industry, it is common to reuse shapes already developed by manufacturers. This was not our wish, we wanted our shape: a plunging square end called “eagle’s claw”! We wanted to precisely define the style and comfort . Jonathan had already selected the suppliers and we were quickly able to initiate the first prototype of our shape.

At the same time, we had to define everything that makes up the brand identity: name, motto, logo, typography, etc. This subject was within my remit so I pulled out all the stops: presentation of the name with associated word banking, engagement levers, logo creation and color coding. I can still see the distress in my associates' eyes when I asked them to present at least three ideas each according to this template.

We experienced great moments of “brain storm” that would make the best advertising agencies jealous. I thank my friends for playing the game, although jealous that it was Raphaël's proposal that was accepted...

Several names were considered and one quickly gained unanimous support: Point de Paris.
The four white dots in the logo refer to the four people involved in this project.

The Paris Point is the unit of measurement historically used by French bootmakers. It allows an adjustment as close as possible to the foot for maximum comfort. This choice also corresponds to our ambition: to offer quality shoes with character to enlightened enthusiasts and the most demanding calceophiles. Our experience in measurement has made us picky and it is essential that our shoes are manufactured with the same level of detail and noble materials as in bootmaking.

Too proud to have a name, a motto and a color code, I made the best decision of my life: ordering 1,000 pouches with all options. Brushed cotton, double thickness, navy blue waxed laces, premium screen printing... We won't do it again. We had no idea then that we would only validate our first prototype three years later. This story is a running gag at Point de Paris, and Raphaël has had a whole palette of pouches in his cellar for three years.

The creation of form

We had determined our ambition as a company, defined our specifications, created our brand and visual identity. The time had come to meet the person who would develop our shoes. Jonathan knew him and was very satisfied with the quality of the products and his know-how. I wanted to accompany him, armed with a confidentiality agreement prepared by Raphaël and a detailed presentation of our business plan. We were not yet clients and wanted to keep the project secret...

First observation upon arrival, I am totally “overdressed”. Facing someone who is in overalls , my tie is too much. Second observation, we should have warned him in advance that we wanted him to sign a confidentiality agreement. After 20 minutes of debate on the usefulness of the document, we decided to put it at the bottom of our briefcase.
As for the presentation, we haven't even gotten past the fourth slide. Our interlocutor had seen projects go by and was trying to find out what really motivated us.

Despite this more complicated entry than expected, we share the same vision of a beautiful product and validate our specifications. This was the objective of this meeting.

1. First prototype: a promising start

A few weeks later, in March 2016, we received our first prototype. The excitement is maximum, the project is finally materializing. It is customary to use low quality skins at this stage, making projection difficult for neophytes like us. The goal is only to ensure that the shape corresponds to our expectations from a stylistic point of view and those of the manufacture from a technical point of view. It's a three-way job between the formworker, the workshop manager and us.

As it stands, we are not satisfied and are requesting several modifications for the following prototype:

• Toe: accentuation of the square and the plunging as well as more marked edges in order to gain character.
• Fit: increased instep, reduced height of the upper and deepening of the arch to get closer to the shoemaker's spirit while improving foot support.

2. Second prototype: it's better, but not perfect

Receipt of the second prototype brings us great satisfaction.

The shape looks good and the result is what we want. However, after dyeing the shoe, it seemed to us that the edges could be even more marked. We are then faced with a dilemma that we will often encounter later: settle for a satisfactory result and move forward, or seek even better even if it means falling behind schedule.

We knew that a new test would postpone the project by several additional months, which generated a lot of discussion between us. The French workshop with which we work operates in a tense economic environment and faces competition from mainly foreign groups with more industrialized products. Our project interests him because it is the opportunity for him to develop advanced know-how, but the larger orders from his other clients are logically a priority. The development of prototypes can therefore only be done during certain quieter periods of the year.

Ultimately, the decision was easy to make. It is our passion for shoes which is at the origin of the project, there was no longer any question of conceding the slightest compromise.

3. Third prototype: beyond our expectations

To have the charismatic lines we dreamed of, we had to accentuate the side drop of the shape. It was risky because we also increased the difficulty of fitting the Goodyear sole.
In agreement with the form maker and the manufacturer, the decision was made to simultaneously launch two shape prototypes with different improvements. We also decide to change the leather lining for a more supple one, allowing for greater comfort and finesse.

These two prototypes were a relief for the team and allowed the decisions made to be validated. We wanted a bold shape, with taut lines and marked edges. It's the case ! We decide to call it Audace. It's a shame not yet to have leather that fully highlights it, but the shoemaker's spirit is perfectly respected.

After careful study of the two pairs, we chose the second version (far left above). It allows you to have a finer overflow and a sleek style that meets our expectations. Jonathan then confirmed our choice by wearing this pair for several weeks. The prototypes are generally made in 42 which luckily is its size.

While we had planned the delivery of our first pairs for the 2016 end-of-year holidays, we are only validating the shape. We quickly forget this delay as we are happy and proud of the result. We can very well imagine our different patterns on this form. Morale is therefore high and we look forward to the next steps.

The design of the brogue

Building on the latest prototype, we place an order for our fleet of shapes to be assembled from the form maker. We decide to offer pairs from 40 to 45.5, a total of 12 shapes with half sizes.

A few days before our order was processed, we learned that the company had been declared in receivership! Luckily we hadn't made a deposit yet, but it was a big blow. We thought the project was launched but here we are finally looking for a new supplier of shapes... It's all the more frustrating since our workshop had its habits with this shaper and there were few others that met our needs. quality requirements.

Our research led us to two companies, one in England, the other in Italy. Our choice very quickly fell on the English company whose reputation was reassuring and with which communication was simpler. The numerous exchanges and studies on our form were then costly and time-consuming despite the responsiveness of the supplier.

This setback linked to the change of supplier gives us time to refine our patterns. Our goal for the launch was to offer one shape and two models. The second form as well as the five other patronages have been decided and will be revealed later.

1. First prototype: a little short

Our first model is a cap-toe brogue, a great classic of the men's wardrobe. It is not easy to revisit a pattern as standardized as this one. We therefore sought to make it “perfect” thanks to timeless proportions and numerous details evoking boot making.

The discussions were numerous and passionate. It's crazy how long we can debate the right location of a stretch! We order a prototype from the workshop to ensure our choices.

This first attempt is promising! However, modifications are quickly requested:

• The straight toe is a little too short, i.e. too close to the toes
• The straight end seam between the edge and the welt is not vertical enough
• The two lines of eyelets are parallel whereas we want an arc.

2. Second prototype: the tip is perfectly placed

We are amazed by discovering this pair because the modifications requested at the right end are very satisfactory. The proportions are right, the whole is balanced. There are still a few small details missing - the arc eyelets for example - which do not require additional prototyping. We therefore validate our first pair, soberly named Le Richelieu.

We were therefore ready to place a first order for ourselves and our loved ones in order to test our shoes further and take some photos. The launch was getting closer!

Well, that's what we thought.

When we received our pairs, it was a cold shower. Some shapes from our English supplier have a slight defect which causes play in the hinge. This gap makes assembly very difficult and does not allow the workshop to work with precision.

Three problems are identified:

1. Pleats on the upper at the right end
2. An uneven seam along the welt
3. Marks and tears caused by tooling on the leather

The forms are sent back to England for correction. The supplier was responsive and the relationship remained good despite this new setback. We also took the opportunity to order a second fitness park. The investment is substantial but will allow us to cope with any unforeseen events in the future.

As for the marks on the leather, they were due to the part in which the shoe is housed during the Goodyear sewing. It is necessary to apply strong pressure so that the shoe does not move during this delicate operation.

After three other tests with different settings, the result still does not meet our requirements. We therefore decided to develop our own part and had a machine in the workshop adjusted specifically for us.

All these operations lasted almost a year, from April 2017 to March 2018, and required a lot of energy and financial resources. We were already planning for the launch and yet we had to rework shapes and tools. Fortunately we are very close friends and united because these difficult times require great motivation to continue. We are pugnacious at Point de Paris.

The design of the pump

Our first series had to be started again by the workshop with the modified shapes. We took advantage of this time to refine pattern and assembly details. During these tests, we are beginning the prototyping of our second model, a very refined “one-piece” brogue, in the purest French style.

1. First prototype: a shot in the dark

We didn't want to do a traditional One Cut . The task was complicated as the possibilities for modification are limited with a model that only has one seam. So we tried to move it by positioning it in a less visible place, from the back to the inside of the foot. The goal was to provide a completely smooth view of the heel.

The attempt was not unpleasant, but we were not completely convinced. In addition, the workshop had difficulty assembling the two shoes symmetrically. We abandoned this idea to concentrate our efforts on other parts of the shoe.

2. Second prototype: the gates of paradise

The beauty of an oxford lies in the purity of its lines. In order to magnify it, we wanted to offer it with three eyelets. The instep is refined and the lines are taut. We call it L'Escarpin, in a nod to the refined feminine classic, although this pattern is not technically one.

We met up with the workshop manager in October 2018 at Jonathan's to discover this second attempt together. Some modifications were requested:

• Move the location of the first eyelet up by three millimeters in order to have more consistent lacing and visually lengthen the foot
• Pinch the sole further to thin the profile of the shoe and reinforce support
• Mill the sole to obtain a more “square” end.

All our pairs are made with top-grade full-grain calfskin from Tanneries du Puy. We are very satisfied with these leather goods but the supply is irregular because luxury leather goods are very expensive.

To overcome any breakage, we carried out a test with leather from Tannerie Degermann. The leather had a nice hand but we noticed a slight grain which does not provide a completely smooth finish. We decided to keep Puy leather in order to always offer the best leathers.

At the same time, we are thinking about what shades to offer. We asked the workshop to produce shoes with patina leather, for two reasons:

1. Each hand-made shade is unique and allows you to highlight the line with subtle nuances.
2. Preparing pairs on demand limits stocks and guarantees a constant supply of exceptional leathers.

After several tests and training with Romain Carré of Cireurs Parisiens (dyeing professionals), we decided to offer our models in black, navy blue and three variations of brown.

Each Point de Paris pair will be dyed and pampered before delivery. It will also receive a series of hand finishes, including the embroidery of a stopping point, a bootie delicacy that is dear to us.

We also want our pairs to stay beautiful for as long as possible.

For this, it is essential to use quality shoe trees, adapted to the fit. Moisture is thus ideally absorbed and the shoe regains its shape between two ports. We have therefore decided to include in the price shoe trees made on our last. This point is non-negotiable!

We tried many models during our adventure, from many manufacturers in Europe. Finally, it is a shoe tree with a very elaborate shape, in a beautiful blue varnished wood that we choose. This choice was simple since we all fell in love the first time when we saw it, and the second when we used it.

Our desire to produce pairs whose characteristics are as close as possible to those of the boot requires time and significant investments.

The whole strength of the project lies in the uncompromising specifications that we have put in place. We therefore need to test new solutions and produce specific parts to achieve our goal. We want to produce an exclusive pair, without compromise and we will do everything to achieve this.

All these adventures inevitably generate questions from friends and family. Over the past three years, we have lost count of the number of times we have been asked: “where are you?”

In their defense, after the announcement of a launch at the end of 2016, series technical adventures and the validation of the two prototypes only at the end of 2018, we can understand the curiosity and impatience.

A lot of time and effort but the result is worthy. This beauty is one of the latest prototypes of L'Escarpin!

To ensure that this project remains a pleasure and that we maintain friendly relations, we regularly organize “work and relaxation” weekends. These moments were fundamental in making important decisions and in building a true team spirit.

In times of tension, I just need to see Jonathan try his hand at ax throwing again to find a smile and motivation.

Ready for the big jump

The reception of the latest prototype took place at the beginning of 2019, in a café in a Parisian station. In fact, the head of the workshop was keen to make the trip to present his latest production to us in person.

This is a pivotal moment in the project because for the first time we had a pair corresponding to the shape and specifications that we had defined three years earlier. What a relief and what a victory! We could finally launch the production of our fitting set and especially the pairs needed for the photo shoot.

We tried to take the photos on the website ourselves, which turned out to be more complex than we imagined. After several attempts, we were not happy with the result. Beyond the material, it is above all the way of adjusting the device and the lights that is crucial.

Fortunately, one of our friends - Florent not to mention him - is an outstanding photographer and an enlightened shoe lover. He very kindly agreed to help us in exchange for a few Gin-Tos and thanks to him, we have high quality photos. Our tests were not in vain since they allowed us to define the decor and the position of the shoes.

The “pack shot” photos were taken in a professional studio, rented for the occasion. It took us a week of preparation, in particular to receive and take care of the pairs, to have all the elements available…

It's often at these times that you notice that a pair is missing a lace.

As for the group photos, they were taken in different Parisian locations, always under the astonished gaze of onlookers. The photo which is currently on the site will have required a lot of patience because it is not easy to find yourself alone on the steps of a staircase in Montmartre on a Saturday in July!

The final stretch of the project was internal, with the finalization of the third version of our website, the first dating from 2016. With the evolution of the project, we reviewed our ambitions, evolved and the trends and technologies of the web with us .

At this stage, we are still hesitating between a traditional launch or through a crowdfunding platform. This last option is attractive because in addition to the strong web visibility, it makes it possible to produce pairs which are already sold, which is financially very interesting (no stock to manage).

We quickly rule it out because it generates very significant costs (professional video, sales fees, etc.) and requires offering a reduced price offer. However, our economic model does not allow us any discounts. We want to offer our models at the fairest price, all year round. We prefer to focus our efforts on producing the best possible shoes than on making promotional videos.

Each pair is delivered with its shaped shoe trees, accompanied by two pairs of laces (round and flat), shoe polish cream and paste in the right shade as well as protective bags. All in a wooden case to ensure the best possible lifespan.

The final word

This project, after four years of hard work, is reaching maturity. We wanted to keep it secret as long as possible in order to surprise even our closest friends. We wanted to create the “wow” effect among the calceophiles who knew us through forums and other sartorial meetings.

In retrospect, we should have communicated earlier, to get more feedback on our work and get tips from industry professionals. The important thing is that today we are still friends and above all very proud of what we produced.

To find out more, see you on January 25th during our big launch at Gentlemen 1919! You will be able to meet us, try our models and buy a pair of shoes that will accompany you for the next twenty years.

In the meantime to follow us, our website and our Instagram account.

We would like to warmly thank Joseph and his team for the production of our exceptional pairs, Florent for the superb photos as well as Benoît for all his good advice. It is an honor to have been able to present our company on BonneGueule and we hope that you will have enjoyed reading these (a few!) lines.

See you soon.