Point de Paris or the birth of a shoe brand

It is with particular joy that we, the Point de Paris team, present our project to you today and tell our adventure... Because when four shoe enthusiasts decide to launch their own brand, there are many adventures and anecdotes.

Before going any further, let me introduce you:

• Jonathan, President and Product Expert.
  He is certainly the most snobbish and ayatollah-like of the group. According to him, we should all wear brown square-toed oxfords. We try to make him wear other pairs but it's complicated...
  A long-time enthusiast, he went so far as to take a sabbatical year to train with a shoemaker and make his own pairs. This gave him an encyclopedic knowledge of the product on which we base our project.
• Raphaël, in charge of the administrative department.
  The expression "the devil is in the details" is what best describes him. He is indeed known for asking the impossible on the part of craftsmen.
  Raphael takes care of quality control and I can assure you that he is uncompromising. A lawyer by training, he will be of very good advice to all those who want to develop a formal and distinguished look.
• Guillaume, the web manager.
  The most gentleman farmer , without a doubt. I have never met anyone who wears a tweed suit so well, even in summer! Guillaume knows how to stay elegant in all circumstances, even on his Triumph.
  A slightly old-fashioned Epicurean, he is our provincial touch. A general engineer by training, he takes care of our website, planning management and our logistics solutions.
• Charlie, in charge of sales and marketing (writer of this article).
  My associates consider me a bourgeois bohemian because I always stop at the bar to sip a Monaco on my way back from the market and I play Molkky at the first ray of sunshine… Just like you, I like to know what I'm buying and can spend hours scouring forums to find the rare gem. I consider shoes to be the centerpiece of an outfit, the one that gives the most style.

The birth of a group of enthusiasts

The Internet keeps everything and on the occasion of this article I found traces of our first exchanges on the famous forum En Grande Pompe in 2013. We did not know each other yet but shared the desire to understand the characteristics of a beautiful garment, of a beautiful pair of shoes, to buy better This thirst for learning brought us closer together and still drives us today.

Following a passionate discussion about the manufacturing methods of the Vass brand, I proposed to organize a trip to Budapest in June 2015, open to all. The objectives were to visit their workshop and to meet David Balazic, a French shoemaker who settled in Hungary following his journeymanship.

Barely knowing each other, the four of us - accompanied by a stranger who will become a great friend - find ourselves in Budapest to discover the Austro-Hungarian manufacturing processes and to add a few (many) nuggets to our wardrobes.
We didn't know it yet, but this stay was the first in a series. with the desire to meet the best makers, visit their factories and expand our shoe collections.

The creation of the project

Back in Paris, we continue to see each other very frequently to share our passion. Shoes remain our favorite subject and we are more than ever in search of the ideal pair: the one with uncompromising specifications and an affordable price. Sweet dream!

At that time, Jonathan took advantage of a sabbatical semester to learn the basics of shoemaking from a former Berluti workshop manager. Over the months, last work, pattern making and assembly no longer held any secrets for him.

Thanks to his new contacts in this field and seduced by his exciting stories, we took the plunge and had our first pair of custom-made shoes made. A unique experience, from taking measurements to final reception. The feeling of support and the level of finishing are incredible.

The world of classic footwear is made up of artisan shoemakers and ready-to-shoe brands. Industrialization imposes many compromises in terms of manufacturing techniques, regardless of the price range.

For example, almost no brand offers long counters and very few use leather counters. However, these elements considerably improve the longevity and comfort of shoes. Although the ready-to-shoe offer is wide, the finish, materials and durability are generally far from the standards of shoemaking.

From the excitement of our custom-made pairs to the project of creating our own brand, there is only one step. Or rather one drink! During a well-watered evening in October 2015, I ask Jonathan what he is waiting for to get started: he has the desire, the skills and the contacts. His snobbery is not only a fault, it makes him someone uncompromising on quality and style.

Glass after glass, we finally lifted the taboo on our desire to create the shoe brand of our dreams. If this project was in our heads, we never mentioned it for fear of diving in... It was a certainty, for us as for Guillaume and Raphaël. We always need a computer scientist and a lawyer - a lawyer, my apologies Master! - in a team, especially when they are also passionate about beautiful shoes.

The first months of the company

After regaining our senses and confirming that we all wanted to embark on the adventure, the time to get to work quickly came. Believe me, creating a brand requires a huge investment, both in time and money. Especially when creating shoes, as the multiplicity of sizes generates very high costs.

We chose to keep our respective jobs because we wanted above all to have fun and avoid financial constraints forcing compromises on the final product. So the meetings took up our evenings and weekends. I remember them with nostalgia.... They lasted until the end of the night because there were so many things to think about.

We have imagined everything: different ranges, hand-soled, customizable stop points, sales only by pre-order and even opening a physical store. Our team has a big advantage: we have complementary skills and our friendship allows us to get through difficult times and disagreements. On the other hand, since we are all big shoe freaks, every decision is important to us and there are a lot of details to discuss.

This initial extravagance allowed us to define the guiding principle from which we will never deviate: charismatic shapes, a construction as close as possible to the shoemaking tradition for a very French style. We quickly built our range around two shapes and seven models with the aim of offering the ideal weekly bag, made up of timeless and elegant patterns in all circumstances.

In the industry, it is common to reuse shapes already developed by manufacturers. This was not our wish, we wanted our shape: a plunging square tip called “eagle claw”! We wanted to define the style precisely and comfort . Jonathan had already selected the suppliers and we were quickly able to initiate the first prototype of our shape.

At the same time, we had to define everything that makes up the brand identity: name, motto, logo, typography, etc. This subject was within my remit so I pulled out all the stops: presentation of the name with associated word banking, engagement levers, logo creation and color code. I can still see the distress in my associates' eyes when I asked them to present at least three ideas each according to this template.

We had some great moments of “brainstorming” that would make the best advertising agencies jealous. I thank my friends for playing the game, although I am jealous that it was Raphaël’s proposal that was accepted…

Several names were considered and one quickly gained unanimous support: Point de Paris.
The four white dots on the logo refer to the four people involved in this project.

The Point de Paris is the unit of measurement historically used by French shoemakers. It allows for a close fit to the foot for maximum comfort. This choice also corresponds to our ambition: to offer quality shoes with character to enlightened amateurs as well as to the most demanding calceophiles. Our experience in measurement has made us meticulous and it is essential that our shoes are manufactured with the same level of detail and noble materials as in shoemaking.

So proud to have a name, a motto and a colour code, I made the best decision of my life: order 1,000 pouches with all the options. Brushed cotton, double thickness, navy blue waxed laces, premium screen printing… You can’t change your ways. We had no idea then that we would only validate our first prototype three years later. This story is a running gag at Point de Paris, and Raphaël has had a whole palette of pouches in his cellar for three years.

The creation of the form

We had determined our ambition as a company, defined our specifications, created our brand and visual identity. The time had come to meet the person who would develop our shoes. Jonathan knew him and was very satisfied with the quality of the products and his know-how. I insisted on supporting him, armed with a confidentiality agreement prepared by Raphaël and a polished presentation of our business plan. We were not yet customers and wanted to keep the project secret...

First observation on arrival, I am totally “overdressed”. Faced with someone who is in overalls , my tie is too much. Second observation, we should have warned him in advance that we wanted him to sign a confidentiality agreement. After 20 minutes of debate on the usefulness of the document, we decided to put it at the bottom of our briefcase.
As for the presentation, we didn't even get past the fourth slide. Our interlocutor had seen a lot of projects and was trying to find out what really motivated us.

Despite this more complicated than expected introduction, we share the same vision of a beautiful product and validate our specifications. This was the objective of this meeting.

1. First prototype: a promising start

A few weeks later, in March 2016, we received our first prototype. The excitement was at its peak, the project was finally taking shape. It is customary to use low-quality leathers at this stage, making projection difficult for novices like us. The goal is only to ensure that the shape matches our expectations from a stylistic point of view and those of the manufacturer from a technical point of view. It is a three-way job between the last maker, the workshop manager and us.

As it stands, we are not satisfied and request several modifications for the following prototype:

• Tip: accentuation of the square and the dip as well as more pronounced edges in order to gain character.
• Fit: increased instep, reduced upper height and deeper arch to approximate the bootie style while improving foot support.

2. Second prototype: it's better, but not perfect

The reception of the second prototype brings us great satisfaction.

The shape looks good and the result is what we want. However, after dyeing the shoe, it seemed to us that the edges could be even more pronounced. We are then faced with a dilemma that we will often encounter later: be satisfied with a satisfactory result and move on, or look for even better even if it means falling behind schedule.

We knew that a new test would delay the project by several additional months, which generated a lot of discussion between us. The French workshop we work with operates in a tense economic environment and is subject to competition from mainly foreign groups with more industrialized products. Our project interests them because it is an opportunity for them to develop advanced know-how, but the larger orders from their other customers logically take priority. The development of prototypes can therefore only be done at certain quieter times of the year.

In the end, the decision was easy to make. It was our passion for shoes that was at the origin of the project, so there was no question of making any compromises.

3. Third prototype: beyond our expectations

To achieve the charismatic lines we dreamed of, we had to accentuate the lateral drop of the shape. This was risky because we also increased the difficulty of assembling the Goodyear sole.
In agreement with the last maker and the manufacturer, the decision was made to launch two last prototypes simultaneously with different improvements. We also decided to change the lining leather for a more flexible one, allowing for greater comfort and finesse.

These two prototypes were a relief for the team and allowed us to validate the decisions made. We wanted a bold shape, with taut lines and marked edges. That's the case! We decided to call it Audace. It's a shame not to have a leather that fully enhances it yet, but the bootmaking spirit is perfectly respected.

After careful study of the two pairs, we chose the second version (on the far left above). It allows for a finer overflow and a racy style that corresponds to our expectations. Jonathan then confirmed our choice by wearing this pair for several weeks. The prototypes are generally made in 42, which luckily is his size.

While we had planned the delivery of our first pairs for the end of year 2016 holidays, we are only validating the shape. We quickly forget this delay as we are so happy and proud of the result. We can easily imagine our different patterns on this shape. Our morale is therefore high and we are eagerly looking forward to the next steps.

The design of the Richelieu

With the latest prototype, we place an order for our fleet of lasts to be assembled from the last maker. We decide to offer pairs from 40 to 45.5, a total of 12 lasts with half sizes.

A few days before our order was processed, we learned that the company had been declared in receivership! Fortunately, we had not yet paid a deposit, but it was a hard blow. We thought the project had been launched, but here we are in the end looking for a new supplier of lasts... It is all the more frustrating since our workshop was used to this last maker and there were few others that met our quality requirements.

Our research led us to two companies, one in England, the other in Italy. We quickly chose the English company, whose reputation was reassuring and with whom communication was easier. The numerous exchanges and studies on our form were then costly and time-consuming despite the responsiveness of the supplier.

This setback linked to the change of supplier gives us time to refine our patterns. Our goal for the launch was to offer one shape and two models. The second shape as well as the other five patterns have been decided and will be revealed later.

1. First prototype: a little short

Our first model is a straight-toe Oxford shoe, a great classic of the men's wardrobe. It is not easy to revisit a pattern as standardized as this one. We therefore sought to make it "perfect" thanks to timeless proportions and many details evoking bootmaking.

The discussions were numerous and passionate. It's crazy how long we can debate the right location of a straight end! We order a prototype from the workshop to make sure of our choices.

This first test is promising! However, modifications are quickly requested:

• The toe is a little too short, i.e. too close to the toes
• The straight end seam between the edge and the welt is not vertical enough
• The two eyelet lines are parallel when we want an arc.

2. Second prototype: the tip is perfectly placed

We are happy to see this pair because the modifications requested at the right end are very satisfactory. The proportions are right, the whole is balanced. There are still a few small details missing - the arched eyelets for example - which do not require additional prototyping. We therefore validate our first pair, soberly named Le Richelieu.

So we were ready to place a first order for ourselves and our loved ones in order to test our shoes for longer and take some photos. The launch was getting closer!

At least, that's what we thought.

When we received our pairs, it was a cold shower. Some of the shapes from our English supplier had a slight defect that caused play in the hinge. This gaping made assembly very difficult and prevented the workshop from working with precision.

Three problems are identified:

1. Creases on the upper at the right end
2. Uneven stitching along the welt
3. Marks and tears caused by tools on the leather

The forms are sent back to England to be corrected. The supplier was responsive and the relationship remained good despite this new setback. We are also taking the opportunity to order a second set of forms. The investment is substantial but will allow us to deal with any unforeseen events in the future.

As for the marks on the leather, they were due to the part in which the shoe is housed during the Goodyear stitching. It is indeed necessary to apply strong pressure so that the shoe does not move during this delicate operation.

After three more attempts with different settings, the result still did not meet our requirements. So we decided to develop our own part and had a machine in the workshop set up specifically for us.

All these operations lasted almost a year, from April 2017 to March 2018, and required a lot of energy and financial resources. We were already planning for the launch and yet we had to rework the shapes and tools. Fortunately, we are very close friends because these difficult times require great motivation to continue. We are tenacious at Point de Paris.

The design of the pump

Our first series had to be restarted by the workshop with the modified lasts. We took advantage of this delay to refine details of pattern making and assembly. On the occasion of these tests, we began prototyping our second model, a very refined “one-piece” Oxford shoe, in the purest French style.

1. First prototype: a sword in the water

We didn't want to make a traditional One Cut . The task was complicated because the possibilities for modification are limited with a model that only has one seam. So we tried to move it by positioning it in a less visible place, from the back to the inside of the foot. The goal was to offer a totally smooth view of the heel.

The attempt was not unpleasant, but we were not completely convinced. In addition, the workshop had difficulty in mounting the two shoes symmetrically. We abandoned this idea to concentrate our efforts on other parts of the shoe.

2. Second prototype: the gates of paradise

The beauty of a Richelieu lies in the purity of its lines. In order to magnify it, we wanted to offer it with three eyelets. The instep is refined and the lines taut. We call it L'Escarpin, a nod to the so refined feminine classic, although this pattern is not technically one.

We met the workshop manager in October 2018 at Jonathan's to discover this second attempt together. A few modifications were requested:

• Raise the location of the first eyelet by three millimeters in order to have a more consistent lacing and visually lengthen the foot.
• Pinch the sole further to thin the profile of the shoe and strengthen the support
• Mill the sole to obtain a more “square” end.

All our pairs are manufactured with top-grade full-grain calfskin from Tanneries du Puy. We are very satisfied with these leathers but the supply is irregular because luxury leather goods are very consumer-intensive.

To compensate for any breakage, we carried out a test with a leather from Tannerie Degermann. The leather had a beautiful hand but we noticed a slight grain which does not offer a completely smooth finish. We decided to keep the leather from Puy in order to always offer the best leather.

At the same time, we are thinking about the shades to offer. We asked the workshop to produce shoes with patina leather, for two reasons:

1. Each hand-made shade is unique and allows the line to be highlighted with subtle nuances.
2. Preparing pairs on demand limits stocks and guarantees a constant supply of exceptional leathers.

After several tests and training with Romain Carré from Cireurs Parisiens (dyeing professionals), we decided to offer our models in black, navy blue and three variations of brown.

Each Point de Paris pair will be dyed and pampered before delivery. It will also receive a series of hand finishes, including the embroidery of a stop stitch, a bootmaking delicacy that is dear to us.

We also want our pairs to stay beautiful for as long as possible.

For this, it is essential to use quality shoe trees, adapted to the shoe. The humidity is thus ideally absorbed and the shoe regains its shape between two wearings. We have therefore decided to include in the price shoe trees made on our last. This point is non-negotiable!

We tried many models during our adventure, from many makers in Europe. Finally, it is a shoe tree with a very worked shape, in a beautiful blue varnished wood that we choose. This choice was easy since we all fell in love a first time when seeing it, a second time when using it.

Our desire to produce pairs whose characteristics are as close as possible to those of shoemaking requires time and significant investment.

The strength of the project lies in the uncompromising specifications that we have put in place. We therefore need to test new solutions and produce specific pieces to achieve our goal. We want to produce an exclusive pair, without compromise, and we will do everything to achieve this.

All these adventures inevitably generate questions from friends and family. Over the past three years, we have lost count of the number of times we have been asked: “Where are you at?”

In their defense, after the announcement of a launch at the end of 2016, technical setbacks in series and the validation of the two prototypes only at the end of 2018, we can understand the curiosity and impatience.

A lot of time and effort but the result is worth it. This beauty is one of the last prototypes of L'Escarpin!

In order for this project to remain a pleasure and to maintain friendly relations, we regularly organize “work and relaxation” weekends. These moments have been fundamental in making important decisions and in building a real team spirit.

In times of tension, I just need to see Jonathan try his hand at axe throwing again to find my smile and motivation again.

Ready for the big jump

The reception of the last prototype took place at the beginning of 2019, in a café in a Parisian train station. Indeed, the workshop manager insisted on making the trip to present his latest production to us in person.

This is a pivotal moment in the project because for the first time we had a pair that matched the shape and specifications we had defined three years earlier. What a relief and what a victory! We could finally start producing our fitting set and especially the pairs needed for the photo shoot.

We tried to take the photos on the website ourselves, which turned out to be more complex than we imagined. After several attempts, we were not happy with the result. Beyond the equipment, it is above all the way to adjust the camera and the lights that is crucial.

Fortunately, one of our friends - Florent, not to mention him - is an outstanding photographer and an enlightened shoe enthusiast. He very kindly agreed to help us in exchange for a few Gin-Tos and thanks to him, we have high-quality photos. Our tests were not in vain since they allowed us to define the decor and the position of the shoes.

The “pack shot” photos were taken in a professional studio, rented for the occasion. It took us a week of preparation, especially to receive and pamper the pairs, to have all the elements available…

It's often at times like these that you notice that a pair is missing a lace.

As for the group photos, they were taken in different Parisian locations, always under the astonished gaze of onlookers. The photo that is currently on the site will have required a lot of patience because it is not easy to find yourself alone on the steps of a staircase in Montmartre on a Saturday in July!

The final stretch of the project was internal, with the finalization of the third version of our website, the first dating from 2016. With the evolution of the project, we reviewed our ambitions, evolved and the trends and technologies of the web with us.

At this stage, we are still hesitating between a traditional launch or through a crowdfunding platform. This last option is attractive because in addition to the strong web visibility, it allows us to produce pairs that are already sold, which is financially very interesting (no stock to manage).

We quickly dismiss it because it generates very high costs (professional video, sales fees, etc.) and requires offering a discounted offer. However, our business model does not allow us any discounts. We want to offer our models at the fairest price, all year round. We prefer to focus our efforts on producing the best possible shoes than on making promotional videos.

Each pair comes with its shoe trees, accompanied by two pairs of laces (round and flat), cream and shoe polish paste in the right shade as well as protective pouches. All in a wooden case to ensure the best possible lifespan.

The final word

This project, after four years of hard work, is coming to fruition. We wanted to keep it secret as long as possible in order to surprise even our closest friends. We wanted to create the “wow” effect among the calceophiles who knew us through forums and other sartorial meetings.

In retrospect, we should have communicated earlier, in order to get more feedback on our work and get tips from industry professionals. The important thing is that today we are still friends and above all very proud of what we have produced.

To find out more, come and join us on January 25th for our grand launch at Gentlemen 1919! You will be able to meet us, try on our models and buy a pair of shoes that will accompany you for the next twenty years.

In the meantime, follow us on our website and our Instagram account.

We would like to warmly thank Joseph and his team for the production of our exceptional pairs, Florent for the superb photos as well as Benoît for all his good advice. It is an honor to have been able to present our company on BonneGueule and we hope that you have enjoyed reading these (few!) lines.

See you soon.