Catwalk(s): trends spotted at London fashion week

Saturday January 4, 10 a.m. Armed with Starbucks cups and iPhones 11, hidden under sunglasses masking their hangovers, fashionistas gather in dozens in front of a hangar.

Some pose in front of photographers, desperately praying to end up on a street style blog, while others take care to display their geolocation on each selfie shared via Instagram. The Ubers follow one another, the flashes crackle (egos inflate); fashion week begins...

The London edition differs from its Italian and French rivals. Shorter, it also does not have a headliner. No big houses like Dior or Armani, nor ultra-trendy labels like Off-White.

Without admitting defeat, the English scene gives pride of place to emerging talents . It establishes itself as a laboratory of experimentation oozing youth from every pore, where what it lacks in “heritage” is made up for in audacity.

So, what does she have in store for next winter?

What you need to remember: tips for stitching…

Enfant terrible of fashion weeks, London is banking this time on surprising pragmatism. Enough to pick up several ideas.

1. A not-so-formal suit

If you are already in the habit of replacing pants with jeans, there are other avenues to explore.

For example, jogging pants, which we will choose more or less “noble” to maintain balance.

Conversely, colorful prints and silky materials, complemented by more neutral pieces, will guarantee an original look. Even more so with an oversized blazer , or a safari jacket with details.

2. Streetwear 3.0

Back to basics: streetwear rehabilitates the tracksuit.

Even if it means trying it out, choose a sober ensemble, or start at the bottom only, ideal with a denim jacket and a structured t-shirt.

Otherwise, you can still count on a hoodie and its all-terrain power.

3. Mountain fashion

Combine formal pants and a down jacket, or padded parka. Casual shirts and small knits will finish the look without overdoing it, for a comfortable and spontaneous result.

Likewise, we can consider fleece, worked in the form of a jacket or sweatshirt .

4. Dark, leather and poetry

Several interpretations of leather pants possible, preferably a straight cut to move away from the biker effect.

A strong piece in itself, complete it with “docile” elements: a casual shirt, an ecru sweater, a camel overcoat... As for shoes, sneakers will finish the outfit with lightness , rather than boots.

Otherwise, there remains the figure of the tortured poet . More affordable, it relies on an elegance tinged with sadness, focusing on rough wools, dark blazers and textured shirts.

5. Workwear under the banner

It's time for the military.

Camo gives way to classic khaki and beige, lending itself to almost any color. To wear without asking questions.

Very present, the cargo will be combined with a casual shirt , a tee for an effective look, or a large stitch knit for an emphasized build.

6. Casual cocktail

Mix styles like a mosaic of your influences; contrast is key.

Don’t hesitate to play with accessories — vintage bucket hat, weathered bag, sports cap, etc. — to express your personality, and dare to use color.

The cuts generally tend to flare, bringing a new dynamic to the silhouette.

The most interesting: start with pants - all types -, before gradually moving on to full oversize if you feel like it...

Day #1 — Between classic English and rebellious streetwear

To give you an idea, eight of the eleven brands on show today did not exist even three years ago.

Apart from a few exceptions sponsored by Cirque du Soleil, their visions remain generally portable. On the program, costumes in all sauces, streetwear asserting its diversity, and a mountain air…

1. A hooligan in Buckingham: the revival of elegance

After the 2010s, their streetwear and the camps in front of Supreme stores, this decade would be that of a new elegance...

Bulimic, she ingests the codes of a multitude of styles to produce XXL cuts, while she swaps formal pants for leather and fishnet worthy of Berghain.

In short, this good old sarto is getting a facelift. So mix it with the influences that make you tick : abstract print sweater, oversized thrift store blazer, cargo pants and checked coat...

Just tell yourself that this field is not so serious, and that the contrasts enrich it. Be spontaneous…

2. The street facing Brexit: streetwear in a thousand colors

Since its announcement, London streetwear has been firmly fighting against Brexit. After calls for “no”, followed by resistance slogans, he shouts “ F*ck Boris” while celebrating multiculturalism.

Difficult to transcribe as it is specific to the United Kingdom, this idea demonstrates the deep links between fashion and politics.

Otherwise, nothing stops you from buying a wax bomber jacket or a sweatshirt with ethnic patterns... as long as you are interested in their origins.

3. Gorpcore, the urban trapper’s wardrobe

Outdoor enthusiasts – and diet enthusiasts – already know gorp, a cocktail of dried fruits with super-vitamin properties. The handful of cashew nuts gives its name to gorpcore , a trend inspired by mountain dressing.

Warm and comfortable , you may already indulge in it, if only by wearing a down jacket or a quilted vest. Another versatile option: hiking boots, which go well with raw jeans, military pants and patterned flannels.

Fleece is also having its moment of glory. More sophisticated, it even imitates shearling, for hybrid pieces that will easily find their place in casual looks.

Just try to avoid wearing a hood, which is rather risky these days...

Day #2 — Dark or workwear, why choose?

Busiest day on the calendar.

On the one hand, we continue to develop the ideas of the day before : the costume goes wild, the street recalls its cultural openness, and Bibendum goes to a rave party in Val d'Isère.

On the other, a heavy atmosphere envelops the collections. It seems that the concerns of British society, fueled by Valium as Brexit approaches, are crystallizing on the podiums.

The designers then paint a dark picture, with a lot of military references...

1. Apocalypse now: between dark influences and tortured elegance

Ninja techwear cassock, ripped pants, vinyl jacket... The biases are clear; materials often black in color.

Leather takes the lion's share. If we do without the full look, we can easily imagine it on a piece other than a jacket.

For example, a soft shirt over a turtleneck, or a suede calfskin T-shirt, tamed by neutral pants.

Otherwise, there is always that good old perfecto...

In another genre, some try the cursed poet costume, made of worn wool, vintage cuts and quotes from Nietzsche.

Look for intentionally dull shades and materials with grain . The same goes for shirts, typically linen models. Flask of bourbon optional.

2. Workwear: a winter for urban soldiers

With World War III just a tweet away, khaki and beige are set to bloom next winter.

Cargo dominates , available in canvas, ripstop, or combined with streetwear notes. Far removed from its origins, it brings a form of originality that is easy to master (special mention to the denim version).

Another possibility: the vest with pockets. Practical, it is especially suitable for tees and hooded sweatshirts. As it is a strong piece, choose it sober , in black nylon in particular. Neat finishes essential, to avoid the “hunting and fishing” appearance.

When it comes to coats, we take it long and nonchalant. A bit of a surprise, they can add new impetus to a casual outfit by playing on proportions . No miracle tip here: try it, you'll see.

If the military register seems obvious to us, London does not usually take such an interest in it. Proof that the classics always remain current.

Day #3 — Hybrid casual and designer tracksuits

Last stop of our stay in the land of fish & chips. Only two fashion shows and barely more presentations, for a rather wise conclusion.

Like yesterday, armed troops are breaking away from mood boards to invade our dressing room. Between construction site and battlefield, the cargo ship triumphs, while the leather continues its advance.

In terms of novelties, two dishes appear on the menu: a cocktail of styles, and sporty airs without lifting a single gram of cast iron .

1. Mixture of influences: casual (chic) ​​at the crossroads of genres

The repertoires combine to produce a rich look. A mix of pieces with a plural style, leaning towards elegance or relaxation, which bring depth to our everyday outfits.

We thus find the combo of a high-necked sweater and formal pants. The latter is wider: straight, carrot, fluid, structured by darts... We (readily) open ourselves to looser cuts.

Requiring a minimum of control, a completely oversized look represents a breath of fresh air after the era of “all fitted”. For those who try, first start by clearly distinguishing materials and/or colors, to avoid a mass effect.

Additionally, this season blurs the line between basic and statement piece.

Playing on volumes and materials, she cuts a chino in a technical canvas with eyelets – the simple version will suffice – then accentuates the build of a denim jacket with skillfully placed topstitching.

In short, you know the formula. Long live the contrasts.

2. Take up sport (or not): the return of the tracksuit

In an overdose of the post-Soviet wave embodied by VETEMENTS, designers are turning to streetwear basics, resurrecting the tracksuit in the process.

Modernized, it is based on sophisticated details , when it is not superimposed on a shirt. The track jacket is also changing, looking more like a parka or jacket .

Offerings that are difficult to find outside premium labels, perhaps even more difficult to understand, but which open up a whole new area of ​​interpretation.

In the meantime, you can get your hands on some unusual joggers — flannel, technical nylon, deep colors, sharp patterns, etc. —, before adopting the matching jacket...