Catwalk(s): trends spotted at London fashion week

Saturday, January 4, 10 a.m. Armed with Starbucks cups and iPhones 11, hidden under sunglasses masking their hangovers, fashionistas gather by the dozens in front of a hangar.

Some pose for photographers, desperately praying to end up on a street style blog, while others take care to display their geolocation on each selfie shared via Instagram. The Ubers follow one after the other, the flashes crackle (egos swell); fashion week begins...

The London edition differs from its Italian and French rivals. It is shorter and does not have a headliner. There are no big houses like Dior or Armani, nor any ultra-trendy labels like Off-White.

Without admitting defeat, the English scene gives pride of place to emerging talents . It establishes itself as an experimental laboratory oozing youth from every pore, where what it lacks in "heritage" is compensated in audacity.

So what does she have in store for us next winter?

What you need to remember: tips to steal...

The enfant terrible of fashion weeks, London is this time banking on a surprising pragmatism. Enough to pick up several ideas.

1. A not-so-formal suit

If you're already in the habit of swapping pants for jeans, there are other avenues to explore.

For example, jogging pants, which we will choose to be more or less “noble” to maintain balance.

Conversely, colorful prints and silky materials, complemented by more neutral pieces, will guarantee an original look. Even more so with an oversized blazer , or a safari jacket enhanced with details.

2. Streetwear 3.0

Back to basics: streetwear rehabilitates the tracksuit.

If you're going to try it, choose a simple outfit, or start with the bottom only, ideal with a denim jacket and a structured t-shirt.

Otherwise, you can still count on a hoodie and its all-terrain power.

3. Mountain fashion

Combine formal trousers with a down jacket or padded parka. Casual shirts and small knits will complete the look without overdoing it, for a comfortable and spontaneous result.

Similarly, we can consider fleece, worked in the form of a jacket or sweatshirt .

4. Dark, leather and poetry

Several interpretations of leather pants are possible, preferably a straight cut to move away from the biker effect.

A strong piece in itself, complete it with "docile" items: a casual shirt, an ecru sweater, a camel overcoat... As for shoes, sneakers will finish the outfit lightly , rather than boots.

Otherwise, there remains the figure of the tortured poet. More affordable, it relies on an elegance tinged with spleen, banking on rough wools, dark blazers and textured shirts.

5. Workwear under the banner

It's military time.

Camo gives way to classic khaki and beige, lending itself to almost any color. Wear it without asking questions.

Very present, the cargo will be associated with a casual shirt , a tee for an effective look, or a chunky knit for an underlined build.

6. Casual cocktail

Mix styles like a mosaic of your influences; contrast is key.

Don't hesitate to play with accessories — vintage bob, distressed bag, sports cap, etc. — to express your personality, and dare to use color.

The cuts tend to flare out overall, bringing a new dynamic to the silhouette.

The most interesting thing: start with pants — all types — before gradually moving on to full oversize if you feel like it...

Day #1 — Between classic English and rebellious streetwear

To give you an idea, eight of the eleven brands on show today did not exist three years ago.

Apart from a few exceptions sponsored by Cirque du Soleil, their visions remain generally wearable. On the program, costumes in all sauces, streetwear affirming its diversity, and a mountain air…

1. A Hooligan in Buckingham: The Revival of Elegance

After the 2010s, their streetwear and the camps in front of Supreme stores, this decade would be one of a new elegance...

Bulimic, she ingests the codes of a multitude of styles to produce XXL cuts, while she swaps formal trousers for leather and fishnet worthy of Berghain.

In short, this good old sarto is getting a facelift. So mix it with the influences that make you vibrate : abstract print sweater, oversized thrift store blazer, cargo pants and checked coat...

Just tell yourself that this field is not so serious, and that contrasts enrich it. Be spontaneous…

2. The street facing Brexit: streetwear in a thousand colors

Since its announcement, London streetwear has been fighting hard against Brexit. After calls for “no”, followed by resistance slogans, it shouts “ F*ck Boris” while celebrating multiculturalism.

Difficult to transcribe as it is so specific to the United Kingdom, this idea bears witness to the deep links between fashion and politics.

Otherwise, nothing is stopping you from buying a wax bomber jacket or a sweatshirt with ethnic patterns... provided you are interested in their origins.

3. Gorpcore, the urban trapper’s wardrobe

Outdoor enthusiasts — and dieters — already know about gorp, a cocktail of dried fruits with super-vitamin virtues. The handful of cashew nuts gives its name to gorpcore , a trend inspired by mountain dressing.

Warm and comfortable , you may already be indulging in it, even if it's just by wearing a down jacket or a quilted vest. Another versatile option: hiking boots, which go well with raw jeans, military pants and patterned flannels.

Fleece is also having its moment of glory. More sophisticated, it even imitates shearling, for hybrid pieces that will easily find their place in casual looks.

Just try to avoid the balaclava, which is rather risky in these times...

Day #2 — Dark or workwear, why choose?

Busiest day on the calendar.

On the one hand, we continue to develop the ideas of the day before : the costume becomes shameless, the street recalls its cultural openness, and Bibendum goes to a rave party in Val d'Isère.

On the other hand, a heavy atmosphere envelops the collections. It's as if the concerns of British society, fueled by Valium as Brexit approaches, are crystallizing on the catwalks.

The designers then paint a dark picture, with a lot of military references...

1. Apocalypse Now: Between Dark Influences and Tortured Elegance

Techwear ninja- style cassock, slashed pants, vinyl jacket… The choices are clear-cut; the materials are often black.

Leather takes the lion's share. If we do without the full look, we can easily imagine it on a piece other than a jacket.

For example, a soft shirt over a turtleneck, or a suede t-shirt, tamed by neutral pants.

Otherwise, there is always that good old perfecto...

In another genre, some try the costume of the cursed poet, made of worn wool, vintage cuts and quotes from Nietzsche.

Look for intentionally dull shades and materials with grain . Same for shirts, typically linen models. Bourbon flask optional.

2. Workwear: a winter for urban soldiers

With World War III just a tweet away, khaki and beige are set to bloom next winter.

Cargo dominates , available in canvas, ripstop, or crossed with streetwear notes. Far from its origins, it brings a form of originality that is easy to master (special mention to the denim version).

Another possibility: the vest with pockets. Practical, it will lend itself especially to tees and hoodies. Since it is a strong piece, choose it sober , in black nylon in particular. Neat finishes are essential, to avoid the "hunting and fishing" look.

As for coats, we're going for long and nonchalant. A bit risky, they can give a new lease of life to a casual outfit by playing on the proportions . No miracle trick here: try it, you'll see.

While the military register seems obvious to us, London is not in the habit of being so interested in it. Proof that the classics always remain in tune with the times.

Day #3 — Hybrid casual and designer tracksuits

Last stop of our stay in the land of fish & chips. Only two parades and barely more presentations, for a rather sober conclusion.

Like yesterday, armed troops are breaking away from mood boards to invade our wardrobes. Between construction site and battlefield, cargo triumphs, while leather continues its advance.

As for new items, two dishes are on the menu: a cocktail of styles, and a sporty air without lifting an ounce of iron .

1. Mix of influences: a casual (chic) ​​at the crossroads of genres

The repertoires combine to produce a rich look. A mix of pieces with a plural style, leaning towards elegance or relaxation, which bring relief to our everyday outfits.

We thus find the combo of a high-neck sweater and formal pants. The latter is made wider: straight, carrot, flowing, structured by darts... We open ourselves (willingly) to looser cuts.

Requiring a minimum of mastery, a completely oversized look represents a breath of fresh air after the era of "all fitted". For those who will try, start by clearly distinguishing materials and/or colors, to avoid a mass effect.

Additionally, this season blurs the line between basic and statement piece.

Playing on volumes and materials, she cuts chinos in a technical canvas with eyelets — the simple version will suffice — then accentuates the build of a denim jacket with skillfully placed topstitching.

In short, you know the formula. Long live contrasts.

2. Get into sport (or not): the return of the tracksuit

Overdosing on the post-Soviet wave embodied by VETEMENTS, designers are turning to streetwear basics, resurrecting the tracksuit in the process.

Modernized, it relies on sought-after details , when it is not superimposed on a shirt. The track jacket is also undergoing a transformation, taking on more of a parka or a jacket .

Proposals that are difficult to find outside of premium labels, perhaps even more difficult to grasp, but which open up a whole new field of interpretation.

In the meantime, you can try out some unusual jogging pants — flannel, technical nylon, deep colors, sharp patterns, etc. — before adopting the matching jacket...