Editorial nuggets #28 – Jordan

I dream of the blessed day when, in a shy and singing May morning, I would tread barefoot on the cool tiles of my house on the coast and, with a moving gesture, I would open the doors of my summer dressing room. It would be like a secret sanctuary, a cove hidden from everyone's eyes except mine, forever delighted by this spectacle. There, clothes still warm and vibrant with the sun would flourish in the shadows, buzzing with that aesthetic accuracy which surrounds the old gentlemen of the seaside with an unstoppable aura.
Good. It's all well and good to dream, but I don't have a second home or a summer dressing room worthy of these old gentlemen.
I start with the second. For the residence, it will be complicated this month. Blame it on a few drinks on the terrace but I'm not losing hope.

A Swann & Oscar short-sleeved shirt

In my dream summer wardrobe, there are shirts. First of all. Beautiful and voluptuous shirts. Pretentious ones too with bold patterns that jump out at your throat and collars that go for miles. But they will always be light and loose too. The kind Gatsby throws to Daisy.
So I already have a few that can qualify for this wardrobe:
- An Officine Générale with an officer collar in a light olive green cotton poplin
- A Hartford then in blue seersucker with white stripes that looks like a popover
- Another AMI in chambray Cuban collar with short sleeves
That's about it.
And since I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for in the existing offer, I created a shirt brand I turned to tailor-made with Swann&Oscar to create a shirt as I wanted, that is to say in 100% linen, striped, short sleeves, fullness, a Cuban collar and a straight cut.
short-sleeved rust-colored shirt with white stripes
I went there because I wanted to be sure to have a large choice of fabrics (they have more than 3000 references I was told) and tailoring in France, even if I can't find it absolutely necessary in general, has several virtues in my eyes: firstly, the fact of wearing "made in France" has a certain charm to which I am sensitive and secondly, it reassures me that, for a tailor-made shirt, the brand is so close to its manufacturing workshop. To develop a particular model for a person, it always makes things much easier when the orderer and the maker understand each other effortlessly.
And besides, I add that S&O also stuck in my head thanks to its lookbooks: notably the excellent spring/summer 2018 and the most recent spring/summer 2019 .

And, with the help of Atithane , I just found the perfect fabric at Thomas Mason in a golden linen of very good quality.

striped gold white linen fabric
The fabric is woven from Normandy linen. It is quite fluid, "with, in the weft, a density of threads higher than that generally found on linen shirts" explains Vincent, co-founder of the brand.
Above all, I see that it reflects the light extremely well and I can see it well on my shoulders with white jeans for the evening for example. The dressing room in my house on the coast is progressing a little.
When I explain to Atithane the shape of shirt I want, he barely understands I have said a word. And even!, he takes out a back door a navy seersucker shirt that he has just received for himself and which corresponds in every way to the nugget that I am looking for. Unless of course you consider the fabric.

I had already taken the measurements of a shirt that fit me perfectly. He simply carried over these measurements while adjusting them all the same because a fabric of this density in 100% linen does not behave in the same way as another weave, that is understood.

rust-colored short-sleeved shirt blue shorts

An Orlebar Brown short-sleeved shirt

I had been zealously and enviously looking at everything made from terry cloth for a long time. T-shirt, shirt, sweatshirt mainly. Top pieces therefore, to believe that the legs are ineligible for terry cloth.

But, now that I think about it, terry cloth pants might actually look bad. Although I imagine a cool pair of shorts could benefit from some extra soul with this material. Well, I don't really know.

men's short-sleeved navy blue striped shirt standing

Orlebar Brown shirt (photo from Mr Porter)

Terry cloth is the same as that used for bath towels. It is also called "Terry" and is generally made of cotton, although some brands add synthetic fibers to give textural effects or, more simply, to lower the cost of production.

But I recommend 100% cotton. Like always. And forever. To life, to death.

And here is the beast up close. Very close. You can see his veins, feel his slow breathing. What excitement.

I believe that it is no longer available, that everything has been sold or even that it must have been a product of season 18, but we find it every season at Orlebar Brown .

striped terry cloth towel

Do you see them, these little loops, these "loops" the same ones found inside sweatshirts and typical of bath towels?

Of course, this is vacation clothing. I wear this shirt to the office, but ultimately very little. Because it goes better with the seaside, the messy sand and the saving sea spray from the end of the world.

And then, it’s a fabric that invites you to sweat. It has to be said. I took it just for vacation times when you want to sweat in peace. Where the sun beats like a deaf man on your shoulders and your body reacts like any normal body and the fabric is there so that it doesn't show too much and at the same time allows you with one gesture to stop the painful course of this drop that rolls down the stomach. And I'm not talking about the armpits.

man sitting striped short-sleeved shirt sky blue pants

Rare photo of a man, seemingly nothing, sitting comfortably in a stairwell. He could sweat, it wouldn't show.

The shirt is therefore 100% cotton and made in Portugal. I bought it on sale for €70 on Yoox. I took medium, my usual size. Orlebar Brown is easily found on e-shops like Mr Porter or their own site for that matter.

Every season, the brand creates clothes in this fabric, especially polo shirts which they sell at the full price of €135 for the simplest ones.

I think of Orlebar Brown as soon as I have a desire for summer adventures in my heart , as soon as vacation time has come. On the other hand, this is the first time I've taken the step of purchasing it and I'm happy about it because I can't wait to abuse this shirt, not take too much care with it, drag it to all the beaches, expose it to violent sun and winds alike.

And one day when I fall on a hard rock, her back will be split and I will cry for her, drowning in a bath of sea water, blood and tears.

Am I doing too much? I see what you mean.

shoulder striped terry cloth shirt

I didn't mention the collar of this shirt. Camp collar or Cuban collar. But for me it becomes the synonymous pass of the holidays. With the officer collar which is worn with ease and without wondering how it constantly falls. We let the pass live at the same time and we will see, at the end of the day, what face we have in the photos.

Meermin unlined moccasins

green leather moccasins

I am writing these few lines the day after the heatwave which swept across France and where, on July 25, 2019 in Paris, it reached up to 42°C. Not even hurt.

So perhaps for you who are reading these lines in the future of this overheating world, a summer at 42°C seems ordinary to you, or even seems rather mild to you. And perhaps your bodies have even gotten used to it, that the skin has become thinner over time, that the clothes are now a kind of ultra-light jumpsuits like a veil of nothing at all, opaque and seamless and that babies are now born with their eyes covered with a thin anti-UV film and what not!

Good. I am dizzy. I admit to having lost myself in these fantasies of the future which make me a little dizzy but I have not forgotten the crucial thing I wanted to say: it is that this episode during which the Earth had a fever , I had unlined moccasins on my feet. Seventh Widths , to be exact.

The tone is a little solemn when talking about moccasins, I grant you that. But one thing is certain: for me it is the best way to stay elegant without being too hot . Already thanks to the shape of the moccasin which means that part of the foot is not covered in leather.

And yes!, I plead guilty, I am not wearing invisible socks in these moccasins and, leather being a wonderful material, I noticed that no smell came to spoil the party. Don't ask me how, why, I don't know. And the feeling of having soft leather against the skin is quite sensual, it must be said. And we are beings of sensitivity so I encourage you to try the experience.

The unlined moccasin, therefore, is the equivalent for the feet of the unstructured jacket , which leaves the shoulders free to rise, the back held by nothing to become round, the arms to swing. It's also the equivalent of the real Oxford shirt, the one that has no iron-on, nothing and that we wore in the 1930s in America like we wear t-shirts today.

Well, not exactly.

green shoes moccasins

I do not recommend putting a skate under the sole, since the extra thickness of the rubber makes it hot.

Since if the collar of the shirt is made of two layers of fabric , this is a single wall of leather. It is therefore twice as thin as traditional shoes .

It speaks volumes like that, right? It speaks to me.

In addition, for this model, the brand made sure to build the shoe with thinner soles. It's more of a shoe, it's a cloud inflated with helium and I would like, oh mustachioed Cinderella that I am, to step into this shoe that is promised to me.

It's still made of Goodyear, with French leather from Tannerie d'Annonay . Which does not mean that it is premium quality leather but, at least, they source it from people who work leather well, and in good conditions for the hands that handle it.

Meermin offers them in several colors and also in suede leather.

I would opt for the green ones because I have in mind an outfit including my faded vintage 501, a white t-shirt and blazer and this green would bring just the little touch of sophistication allowing me to take this combination a little more far.

I'm taking advantage of it, as long as the suits of the future have not yet been invented.

Jordan Maurin Jordan Maurin
Jordan Maurin, Mr. Panache

“Clothes are there to have fun, so have fun” is the phrase I say the most in my videos. Style is not a set of rules, it is a field of possibilities. You can wear anything, you just have to find your way!

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