For this guide to men's coats, I have chosen to offer you different styles, in various budgets . It's not a traditional guide that starts with basic, cheap and tasteless coats... you might as well focus on beautiful pieces from the start.
Thus, the quality of materials, assembly and finishes, as well as the design of the room , are the criteria that we took into account in order to make our selection.
The coat is the centerpiece of your wardrobe in winter. And contrary to what one might believe, it can be very versatile, without there being too many questions to ask.
The long double-breasted coat for men: a sure value
For me, the staple piece is the long double-breasted coat.
For what ? Because it is a piece with masculine DNA, allowing a wide range of associations , worn by the military as well as the aristocrats of Victorian London. This makes it an easy piece, from which you can try out different styles: worn in a sartorial-style outfit, a long double-breasted coat and a suit will complement each other elegantly.
Conversely, the elegance of the double-breasted coat will contrast nicely with the relaxation of a casual piece, such as a denim shirt: the style contrasts bring body to the outfit.
Our attention was also focused on this model from Paul & Joe:
Paul & Joe long double-breasted coat, Jeanguy model (€585)
The cut of this coat is very well executed: the shoulders are impeccably cut, and the waist is precisely emphasized, without being too marked. You have to think about it, so as not to be uncomfortable if you wear a suit jacket with it.
One of its greatest assets is undoubtedly its color, imbued with reflections thanks to its speckled appearance. The latter therefore energizes a piece that seems classic at first glance , while making it easier for you to bring contrast to your looks.
There are also several details, such as the tightening tabs on the sleeves - among others - which complete the design of the garment.
On another note, we spotted this model from Carven:
Carven long double-breasted coat (€589)
This coat is aimed more at men whose style is already established, for two reasons:
- Wearing black in men's fashion can sometimes be difficult, because it is a less versatile color than it seems (not to mention that black is a shade that highlights the flaws of a material),
- Its straight cut requires a certain control of volume.
In terms of composition, the woolen cloth used has a beautiful hand: the fabric is soft, with a pleasant finish. This is notably due to the addition of polyamide in the wool.
It will give you a stylish look, but requires the wearing of fitted pants, in order to balance and respect the proportions of the silhouette.
It will also go well with a suit (avoid navy blue models, the whole thing would be too dark), but its "couture" side is all the more interesting if you complement it with pieces with a more casual character, like sneakers.
The designer men's coat: the original
Many claim to have a designer style today, so much so that we don't always know where to go.
In recent years, and with the arrival of a new artistic duo at the head of the house, Kenzo has carried out a stylistic renewal. Although the brand is now part of a trend approach, we still find some very beautiful pieces there, on the fringes of the hype spirit. This coat, for example:
Kenzo designer coat (€765)
The tone is quite futuristic, and the cut really clean, ideal if you are tall and skinny. This kind of style, a bit experimental, doesn't suit everyone; it requires having a minimally slender silhouette for greater harmony, or perfectly mastering your way of dressing ...
The beauty of this coat lies first of all in its color, since we are facing a particularly deep and nuanced blue. It is then its original buttoning which gives the piece all its creative dimension, without making it wearable. It is finally supported by certain finishes, such as the sky blue edging which runs along the collar, contrasting with the darker tones of the body of the piece.
After that, you can legitimately ask yourself: "What? Do I have to empty my A booklet to buy a coat?". Generally speaking, a designer piece will cost more, because it is also a stylistic approach that you are purchasing . On the other hand, for such a price, you obviously have the right to demand an absolutely impeccable cut and materials. A coat bought for €800 should last!
The short coat for men: the peacoat
The peacoat is a coat traditionally worn by sailors, popularized among the "general public" in the last century. With a relatively short length, it constitutes a good alternative for short men , who would fear reducing it further with a coat too long for them.
Chosen without embellishment, it will be a very easy piece to wear , like this Surface to Air model:
Surface to Air Peacoat (€450)
The version offered by the brand is timeless, as it is simple. However, simplicity must be accompanied by precision in execution , as well as a meticulous sense of detail . As a result, the cut is fitted, but not too fitted: you can therefore easily layer the layers underneath.
Such a design also allows you a number of assemblies. It will obviously find its place in a formal outfit, and will underline the elegance of a suit. Closed, peacoats draw the eye to the collar : ties, scarves and other “neck” accessories will be highlighted.
But let's not forget that it is above all a sailor's coat, and therefore a work coat. In fact, pieces with a workwear spirit would perfectly echo that of the coat , while modernizing the wearing of this other classic of the men's wardrobe.
The virile coat for men: the woolen jacket
Let's now move on to different pieces, with a more raw and marked DNA: woolen jackets.
Paul & Joe coat, Bulldog model (€520)
The detail that catches the eye, unsurprisingly, is the woolen collar. It is therefore necessary to take a good look at the quality of these inserts when you want to choose a coat of this type. Note that this collar is removable, for more versatility, and a less distinctive winter feel.
Wool - worked in a herringbone pattern - brings texture, but also a more sophisticated appearance: a casual design, with a more elegant material, makes a piece easier to wear .
In terms of colors, subtle contrasts within the coat are to be favored. Here, the marriage of gray and beige is very natural, and is supported by the buttons in an intermediate shade.
This doesn't stop you from opting for a colored woolen jacket , quite the contrary! Let’s take the example of this Kitsuné model:
Maison Kitsuné jacket, Trucker model, also available in petrol blue (€320)
Camel is a color that we don't think about enough when dressing. However, it constitutes a relevant alternative to more “classic” shades, particularly when choosing a woolen jacket.
Indeed, camel recalls the “adventurer” character of this type of piece, also highlighted by the white wool collar and edging. Using corduroy will add diversity to your wardrobe, you can vary the contrasts and play with materials .
Featuring a resolutely workwear design, it will be difficult for you to wear it in a dressy look. However, it will be very appropriate in a casual outfit, to which it will add a masculine and slightly casual dimension .
Don't spend 1/4 of your salary on a bad purchase
Certainly, it can be interesting to spend on a beautiful, durable, and quality piece. But there is coat and coat...:
- if you don't know how to tell good wool from bad,
- nor find the piece adapted to your size ,
- nor find the winter coat that is ( soberly ) out of the ordinary,
So (given the budget), you can invest 5% of the price of a coat in the BonneGueule Guide ...
