The jacket is THE piece that every man should have in his wardrobe (I know, we also said the same thing about choosing your jeans ...). Elegant, masculine, virile, flattering, the advantages of a good blazer are endless, as this piece is so versatile.
Whether it's with a slightly elaborate t-shirt or a nice shirt, you should wear it often . A well-chosen jacket is a faithful basic, with an excellent lifespan. It therefore deserves a minimum of investment. Yes, it's sad to say, but a jacket from Zara or H&M won't last you more than a year. Because afterwards she will suffer the blow: shoulder padding which will deform like an old man's, blisters from bad ironing worthy of a 3rd degree burn, fabric which will wear out like an old carpet...
Be careful, a jacket is definitely not a mismatched suit jacket . The length and details are not the same. It's a VERY bad clothing habit to take your 3-button Celio suit jacket and use it as a casual jacket.
Because let me remind you of this essential truth: a cheap black suit jacket (often too big) as a blazer: it looks like a guy who wants to be falsely classy but who does it like a fool.
I'm being deliberately incisive here, but buy yourself a jacket worthy of the name . It will last you several years and if you come back to post on this article, we will be even 😉
How to choose a jacket?
A jacket that is too big is immediately visible . The shoulder bulges and sags unnecessarily and numerous marked folds are visible from behind, in the armpits. However, reaching 0% folds in the back is unrealistic , there will always be a little bit.
It can happen that the shoulders are good, but the jacket is still too small. We recognize it by the large star-shaped pleats starting from the button which cross the bust and the ribs. Lapels that start to bulge are also a site of poor size (or poor fit).
In the case of a jacket in your size, there are very few creases, and you feel the jacket simply adjusted to your sides , a very light and subtle tension, very characteristic of a garment perfectly cut for your bust .
It may happen that the sleeves are too long. In this case, I beg you, go to a retoucher and have them shortened. A man with a jacket with sleeves that are too long inevitably makes me think of a child who wanted to take dad's jacket to act big.
One last tip for choosing the perfect jacket: get used to trying on high-end jackets, so you can discern a tailored, precise fit . The goal of the exercise is to give you solid standards against which you can compare the blazer you have your eye on.
How to wear your jacket?
You can wear it in 2 ways:
- or as formal clothing (a suit for example) where your jacket will completely cover your buttocks.
- or as a separate piece (for a casual outfit) where your jacket will stop mid-buttock, or even at hip level.
The differences ? A shorter jacket is above all a jacket less subject to codes and conventions. The connotation becomes more free, sporty and personal. And can be worn with jeans, accentuating a "young" side while playing on this aspect of proportions.
What color jacket should I take?
First thing: I advise you to avoid black , unless there is a lot of work on the material and the details. A simple black jacket ages a man a lot and is frankly boring (except for certain designers who can afford some nice fantasies).
As a result, I keep repeating that you need a gray jacket: that's the basics. Yes, gray really goes with everything, even with the brightest colors (and I would even say, especially with the brightest colors). Afterwards, you can explore other colors, like anthracite, sand, taupe , etc.
Several materials are also interesting: raw wool, or perfectly smooth, unless you opt for very light cotton? Or maybe you prefer a blend of wool and cashmere, or cotton and linen? Here too the possibilities are endless and contribute to the richness of this garment.
That said, in the low cost PAP, you will find nothing other than good old polyester, painful to wear and not very durable . There is an exception at Zara which likes to regularly release cotton jersey jackets.
As for the caliber of the wool (super 120's, super 130's, etc.), forget it, it doesn't mean much and you really have to be a specialist to discern it. Besides, I highly recommend reading the article on Parisian Gentleman where you will know everything there is to know on the subject.
How to judge the quality of a jacket?
The cut is obviously the number one indicator of the quality of a jacket: a fit with as few creases as possible (but which does not tighten) is essential. The ultimate being when the jacket keeps its shape when it is open . This is extremely rare in PAP, and I know of few brands that can boast of offering such models. Then look at the quality of the buttonholes on the sleeves (if there are real buttonholes, that's a very good sign). The material of the buttons also says a lot (mother-of-pearl? horn? well imitated horn?).
In terms of material, if there is synthetic, be wary, even if it is possible to find cut pieces. As for the interlining of the jacket (iron-on or semi-traditional interlining), honestly, don't worry too much about it. Because for a complete beginner, it is quite difficult to discern (especially since there is very good quality iron-on).
What to wear a jacket with?
You can wear a jacket with everything . Literally.
- cardigan + shirt + jacket = no problem
- scoop neck t-shirt (with a deep round neckline) + shirt + jacket = no problem
- simple t-shirt with a possible nice print + jacket = no problem
- very nice shirt with collar details + jacket = no problem
- checked shirt + jacket = no problem
- V-neck sweater + jacket (for a truly hassle-free, quick and easy outfit) = no problem
- hoodie in a sober color + shirt + jacket = no problem
- NO PROBLEM !
The list could go on for a very long time, but you have to understand that it is one of the easiest pieces to match , as long as it is chosen well... obviously!
Low cost jackets: good for students
This is frankly a price bracket where you won't find anything durable . But maybe you don't have the Pentagon's budget and you want a part that will stand the test of time. Let's be clear, you must at least have a budget of €100. Yes, below, it will be very difficult to find that rare gem (unless you prepare well for the sales ).
Zara
We all at least bought a jacket there.
And for good reason, the cuts aren't too bad and the design holds up. Be careful, some have really cheap materials... and others have completely bad cuts at the back. Besides, I advise you to take a look at the online store, the assortments between jackets and t-shirts/sweaters are often very successful: they are a good source of inspiration.
COS
It's clean, it's neat, it's beautiful, it's sober: it's COS .
Lots of inspiration in Swedish fashion. The cuts are well suited to slender body types, and there is often a slightly raw side to the material which completely disrupts the precious side of the jacket. Here too, go for it during the sales. It has nothing to do with it, but the gloves in the look above are really great.
Uniqlo + J
Our opinion on Uniqlo : it's reliable stuff.
It's the only brand that regularly releases jackets with sharp notch lapels, a detail that I particularly like. These are solid, well-cut basic garments . And which are definitely worth it... even if the press photos don't really highlight the pieces much.
Quality jackets that you can wear all the time
For a budget of around €450, you will inevitably find what you are looking for, as there is so much on offer in this price range.
