How do you know if your blazer is formal or casual? – CDL#33

In this article, I invite you to participate in a little game that will allow you to determine the level of formality (or casualness) of your blazer .

We will review each component of the jacket, and assign points to them. Is the shoulder very structured? 5 points. On the contrary, is it completely flexible? 0 points.

If the result is high, your blazer is rather formal. In this case, it will naturally be worn with the associated pants in a suit. If you have the jacket alone, without pants, then I advise you to go for a “dressy mismatch” outfit. .

For example, look at Alex Ramius' Instagram account to see some great looks in this style.

On the contrary, the lower the result, the more easily your blazer will go with very casual clothing : t-shirts, uncreased chinos or sneakers.

The maximum score is 20 points. The minimum score is 0 points.

Grab your favorite blazer and let yourself be guided.

The test

Shoulder padding and rigidity

The more structured a jacket is at the top , the more formal it is.

On the contrary, a softer shoulder gives a more drooping, relaxed fit.

Concretely, take the shoulder of your jacket in your hand: what do you feel?

So, if the shoulder is:

• Very rigid, giving the jacket a "square" appearance = 4 points
• Rather rigid but not completely hard = 3 points
• Rather soft but you feel that there is a little padding still = 1 point
• If the shoulder contains no padding and is completely unstructured = 0 points

On the left, a J. Press jacket with a very structured, square shoulder. On the right, a soft De Bonne Facture jacket, with a dropped shoulder.

Length

The longer your jacket, the more formal it gives it a formal look . The shorter it is, the more it adapts to casual wear. If it arrives:

• Lower buttocks = 2 points
• Around mid-buttocks = 1 point
• higher = 0 points

A well-covered jacket from Thomas Farthing. Much shorter (almost too much) at Asos.

Front pockets

There are two types of pockets on the front of a jacket:

• If the front pockets are called "piped" flap pockets = 2 points.
• If the pockets are patched = 0 points.

On the left , a piped pocket and on the right , a patch pocket.

Matter

The nature of the material of your jacket can have an impact on its level of formality:

• 100% wool = 2 points
• Blend with wool and natural materials = 1 point
• Natural material without wool, only cotton, silk, linen, alpaca, cashmere, etc. = 0 points

Regardless of its color, the fluid appearance and wrinkle of linen, here on the right (source: Gentleman Gazette ) makes the material very relaxed on a jacket, unlike an entirely wool suit, which will remain smoother and more consistent when worn.

Color

The darker the jacket, the more sober it is , but also adaptable in a formal/classic dressy context. A light jacket becomes more casual.

If the color is:

• Very dark, almost black = 4 points
• Rather dark = 2 points
• In an intermediate tone = 1 point
• Clear or a very original color (burgundy, yellow, white, etc.) = 0 points

From left to right: an anthracite gray jacket, almost black (Mario Dessuti), a blue "dark but not too much" (House of Reza) and a very light one ( Suitsupply ).

The pattern, the texture

The more united and uniform a material, the more serious it has. The more textured, creative, with a marked and visible pattern, the more casual the jacket becomes. So, the patterns or texture are:

• Plain with completely smooth material = 4 points
• Fade, almost invisible = 2 points
• Slightly visible = 1 point
• Very visible, strong = 0 points

On the left, a completely smooth texture, without rough edges (Mario Dessuti). In the middle, a tile melted into the material, barely visible (BonneGueule). On the right, a very marked and visible pattern (Suitsupply).

Straight or double-breasted jacket?

• If your blazer is double-breasted, it's +2 points. A double-breasted jacket is always more formal than its equivalent, but straight.

Even if this Suitsupply jacket is rather casual (cotton, bright camel color), it would be even more so if it were not double-breasted.

• If your jacket is straight, it's 0 points.

The exceptions

For example, the so-called “chalk” stripe on a suit is not very casual.

On the contrary, it recalls something of the work costume of a banker or financier. Watch for example The Wolf of Wall Street with Leonardo DiCaprio:

Another example would be the Balenciaga blazers which are very square at the shoulders but which are obviously not formal blazers:

It is a certain style statement that is highlighted here.

So, how much is your blazer out of 20? :)

Hey, we also make blazers!