Curious, isn't it?
You're doing M.
You buy an M sweater on the internet.
He's coming, and he's too small.
It's annoying, but above all curious.
How does a brand decide that you are more of an L than an M? A 32 in pants rather than a 30?
And to know what measurements a 48 jacket should take, she asks the Oracle of sartorialism?
© Credit: SuitSupply
No, ladies and gentlemen. There are things going on behind all this.
And we're going to find out which ones.
What size am I in each country?
American, Italian, French, Japanese sizes... not always easy to navigate. But that's another subject.
If for a purchase on the web, you need to know what your measurements correspond to in France and elsewhere, it's here.
WHAT ARE BRANDS BASED ON?
In its size table, a brand establishes a correspondence to the nearest centimeter
© Credit: vetementpro.com
Where do they look for the information to construct these tables? How do they use them?
1 - STATISTICAL INFORMATION
This is a first source that a brand can turn to:
This data is made available through measurement campaigns. They respond to
The principle of these campaigns? An institution studies the measurements of a representative sample of the population in terms of age, sex, place of residence or even body type.
From these raw data, a set of averages is produced.
STANDARDIZATION OF MEASUREMENTS
In an attempt to have consistent data and sizing methods from one country to another, a set of standards has been established.
In Europe, the EN 13402 standard defines how body measurements must be taken, thus unifying uses between customers and brands at an international level.
An example of a standard pictogram, with primary and secondary measurements.
At the global level, many standards have now been canceled or are being revised. In the meantime, some of the ISO 8559 standards are taking over.
For a brand, respecting these standards allows it to:
- facilitate sales abroad
- limit the rate of returns
In France, the campaign whose data is most often used dates back to 1970.
From March 2003 to the end of 2004,
© Credit: dittoform.com
And as we never stop progress, 3D imaging cabins ensured the accuracy of the data collected.
Abroad, each country has its own anthropometric data from this type of survey. With its own level of completeness and “freshness” of information.
In the United States, for example, the first survey dates from 1921. It was carried out for the American army, among 100,000 men.
Here, once again, it is the utilitarian dimension of clothing in a military context which gives a boost to the evolution of the textile industry.
DEFINE AN EFFECTIVE SIZING SYSTEM
Knowing all the average measurements of a population is good. Knowing how to deduce a size chart that will satisfy as many people as possible is better.
Once we have all the measurements of a population by sample, the institutions determine a gradation, that is to say the variations of measurements from one size to another.
Let's take for example a measurement: waist circumference.
From the waist circumferences recorded on a sample, the statistician will define measurement ranges into which he can “fit” the maximum number of individuals.
Later, each of these ranges will correspond to a pant size. Whose waist measurement will coincide with the measurements of all people in this range.
In military clothing, NATO is for example known for having a very effective pant size system:
In this table :
- On the ordinate, leg length
- On the abscissa, the waistline
- In the boxes, the percentage of population with
the measurements correspond
With only six pant sizes, this system meets the measurements of 82.4% of the population concerned.
A reverse example: Royal Air Force winter suits have a significantly less efficient sizing system, with 72.7% coverage for 12 sizes used.
If a brand wants to define standard sizes on a national market to suit as many people as possible, tapping into this type of data is one of the most effective methods.
But in some countries, this data can be
Since then, water has flowed under the bridges and morphologies have evolved.
Fortunately, brands can count on other resources.
2 - SUPPLIERS
This is often a good solution for young brands: relying on the experience of your suppliers.
In fact, the workshops and factories that assemble the clothes are accustomed to sizing.
They can therefore sometimes provide a size chart to help their customers in their production choices.
A disadvantage: this information is sometimes old, and rarely corresponds to the specifics of a brand's customer base.
But where a workshop can contribute a lot is in gradation: once the brand has determined the perfect size M for its customers, it can easily offer variations in other sizes thanks to its expertise in pattern making.
This gradation often comes down to usage. For example, from one jacket size to another, we add two centimeters of shoulders.
It is therefore quite easy to establish,
© Photo credit: Textilemerchandising.com
A very illustrated example of a size set.
Before launching final production, a supplier can also send a copy of each size of the prototype in order to have them all validated.
WHEN THE SUPPLIER DOES TOO MUCH
Some large-scale brands are developing
© Credit: linternaute.com
Here, the cutting of several patterns of a garment from a piece of fabric
However, the latter sometimes have in-house experts who can take the liberty of simply adapting factory patronage.
This is how, for the same garment in the same size, several factories or workshops can produce completely different dimensions. Hence the importance of a clear and transparent relationship between a brand and its supplier.
3 - OTHER BRANDS
GET INSPIRED...
This is a less orthodox practice.
Not that it is illegal, but let's say that it is not viewed very favorably in the clothing sector.
This little tip simply consists of basing yourself on the measurements of similar clothing from a close competitor, whose offering will meet the same cutting standards and will probably appeal to the same clientele.
The supplier only has to report the measurements for production.
This is a trick that can easily be used by a young brand, allowing them to spend less time and money on this part of the design. But also to take less risks by ensuring you choose an efficient sizing system for your sales.
And when you are a small structure that mobilizes a cash flow that is fragile to say the least, avoiding risks is not trivial.
If this approach is much discussed, it is because it draws on expertise that some brands take years to develop, just by sending a few examples of shirts to a workshop.
...WHERE TO ADAPT
Another practice, less controversial and more widespread, consists of adjusting its size grids according to other brands in the surrounding market, those which will target the same customers.
For example, if a Parisian jeans brand notices that all the other brands in the capital offer a much larger thigh measurement, it may see a discrepancy between its sizing and the standard of its market.
She will therefore correct the discrepancy by adjusting this variable to better meet her demand.
4 - CUSTOMERS
The best size chart that a brand can establish is the one that will satisfy 100% of its customers.
To this end, certain brands are based on
Another considerable source of information: sales by piece size.
Statistically, the largest sales volumes of a brand are generally made in central sizes. Like the M in a t-shirt, the 40 in a shirt, the 48 in a jacket...
If it mainly sells small sizes, this can therefore be explained by too generous sizing. As the clothes are larger, they are ordered one size smaller.
A brand's interactions with its customers are therefore the best source at its disposal to define effective clothing sizes.
THE CURSE OF TOO-LONG TROUSERS
Since we're talking about clothing sizes and customers, I'm taking this opportunity to share with you a little observation from our friend David, community manager & editor at BonneGueule.
Some of you have already expressed your displeasure with the excessive length of pants from certain French brands.
If brands tend to opt for pants lengths that are too long rather than the opposite, it is for two main reasons:
- Trousers that are too long can be altered. Pants that are too short... will stay too short.
- When trying on as in an e-shop photo, pants that are too short will statistically be more of a deterrent to purchasing.
5 - THE CLOTHING ITSELF
THE TYPE OF CLOTHING...
For each clothing model, a brand often has to start from scratch to establish its size grid.
A new cut of pants, a new type of jacket... each item of clothing has its own particularities to consider when developing the size chart.
A coat with raglan sleeves will not leave the same room in the armpits as a blazer. (Aspesi Coat).
A shearling must necessarily be looser than its suede calfskin counterpart which will be finer.
So many differences which will make each shape and cut of part a new challenge, new internal fittings and adjustments, from prototype to prototype.
...AND ITS MATERIAL
Between two identical garments, the material used can generate a lot of differences in terms of fit and feeling when worn.
For example, if a brand that incorporates stretch into all its chinos decides to develop one in 100% cotton, the latter will be less comfortable. An addition of a few centimeters of ease for each size will therefore be required.
The stability of a material can also complicate the determination of a size grid. Some manufacturers take into account a margin of a few centimeters to anticipate shrinkage, and stabilize the fabrics as much as possible to limit gaps.
4 - THE EXPERTS
MODELS...
The pattern maker is a technician who will manage all the adjustments to a garment during its design.
A crotch of pants to place lower? He will see it.
Two extra centimeters at the leg opening? He will report it.
It is a profession and an expensive expertise to which not all brands can necessarily claim, but a real guarantee of coherence and constancy for the size grids of a collection.
The modeler will give all the information to the supplier, and will use his own experience to define the most effective sizing.
This is, for example, the job of our friend Paul, who poses here next to his faithful model on whom he works regularly.
...AND MODELS
The model is the person with perfect measurements. The mannequin whose every measurement will correspond perfectly to the size
His role ? Wear the brand's prototypes,
Unlike a simple bust like this, this solution allows the prototype to be studied in motion.
Disadvantage ? It will be expensive. Particularly because of the lifestyle constraints involved in constantly maintaining the same body shape.
5 - MARKETING
BRAND IDENTITY
A brand's clothing size measurements can also be influenced by the image it wants to convey.
Two examples:
1 - Certain workwear brands, which promote loose, straight clothing, necessarily run large.
2 - Some luxury brands, or those aspiring to the same codes, will tend to be extra-fitted and will thus claim to be.
The Kooples, known for its very slim fit cuts and tight sleeves.
These brands thus make their products more easily identifiable. Between that and a wooden button, everyone has their own choice.
THE LEGEND OF VANITY SIZING
Have you ever felt flattered by zipping up a pair of size 30 jeans when you're usually a size 33?
Have you ever wondered if this wasn't done on purpose? So that you feel slim, beautiful, and find yourself entering your CB code at the checkout, driven by this euphoria?
Well, this witchcraft exists: it’s vanity sizing.
© Photo credit: Sloweare.com
A common trick among women.
This technique relies on self-esteem to trigger purchases by establishing flattering size charts.
However, it is not without flaws: on the web, when you voluntarily deviate from standard sizes, you must expect a corresponding rate of returns.
But depending on their clientele and the effectiveness of the practice on the latter, certain brands benefit from it. Particularly in the United States.
AND AT BONNEGUEULE, HOW DO WE DO IT?
At home, our product team made up of Julien and Charlotte work on the measurement scales to standardize all of our parts.
Depending on the material used, there may be slight differences from one garment to another.
We receive several development prototypes. We have them tried by the members of the team to check the fit and accuracy of the measurements defined on several body types.
From these tests and
This step can be repeated until the final validation before launching into production.
This does not mean that the reality of production will be 100% identical, since it is human work which can sometimes reserve some surprises.
From year to year, we evolve our measurement scales to improve them based on your feedback, the distribution of sales by size, our findings after production, etc.
A fit will never suit 100% of customers but a majority. In the event of a generalized and objective finding, we adjust the measurements.
For other requests, we regularly work on proposing new cuts in parallel.
CONCLUSION: SO, WHY WAS IT TOO SMALL?
Well, there is no shortage of answers.
If national statistics, international standards and market sizing tend towards uniform sizes, each brand finds it in its interest to develop its own approach.
Whether to adapt to its target clientele, to the type of clothing it sells, or even to the identity it claims, a brand will build its own size grid over time.
By knowing its customers, its suppliers, and above all knowing itself, the more the brand advances, the more it will develop sizing methods that will be relevant to it. And so, if you know her well, for you.
