Advice: the men's blazer guide, how to wear it + selection #2

HOW TO WEAR A MEN’S BLAZER

1. WHAT TO WEAR A MEN’S BLAZER WITH?

The jacket is one of the easiest pieces to wear . It does not require any particular skills, and works very well with solid, inexpensive basics .

Here are some clothing combinations that have proven themselves:

• simple t-shirt (with possible print) + jacket
• shirt (with twisted collar possibly) + jacket
• checked shirt + jacket
• cardigan + shirt + jacket
• round neck t-shirt + V-neck sweater + jacket
• hoodie in a sober color + jacket

Subsequently, we will take the time to illustrate this list with numerous look photos.

2. THE T-SHIRT AND THE BLAZER

BLAZER AND V-Neck T-SHIRT

In summer weather, a simple blazer with lapels goes very well with a V-neck t-shirt because the geometric lines of the collar and lapels are harmonious .

By combining t-shirts with complementary collars, layering (= stacking layers) can provide contrasts and reminders of colors.

If the temperatures are not too high, you can apply a layering principle by wearing a cotton cardigan but then a round neck will be essential.

MEN’S BLAZER AND ROUND-NECK T-SHIRT

Aesthetically, the round neck is more relevant under a blazer because the geometric lines are more coherent.

Once you have mastered the basics of the look based on cut and solid colors , it is time to play with colors without looking for overly sophisticated ideas ( synonymous with headaches ).

3. THE SHIRT AND THE BLAZER: A SAFE VALUE TO START

The shirt is the ideal companion for the blazer given that it is a piece whose structure adapts perfectly to the latter: the collar of the shirt and the lapels of the blazer form a geometrically very harmonious whole.

As soon as you are comfortable with your blazer and your favorite shirts, you can start to find original details - called twists - like the collar of this shirt for example:

4. THE MEN’S SHIRT AND BLAZER: TOWARDS A MORE ADVANCED STYLE

Combinations of twists can sometimes present geometric contrasts, such as the coexistence of pointed lapels on a round-neck shirt.

In all circumstances, an advanced vision of style allows you to enhance these kinds of details and develop looks that have character.

When it comes to matching colors , don't forget to consider the color of the buttons on the shirt or, more generally, the part covered by the blazer.

Above, the contrasts of materials and colors are clever... therefore happy.

It is possible to wear a t-shirt under a shirt: for example a gray or white t-shirt under a chambray shirt.

5. BE CAREFUL OF OVERTHINK

We must always keep in mind not to fall into the multiplication of colors on the one hand, and not to try to make too many obvious reminders on the other hand.

Being preoccupied with a perfect match reveals a mechanical sensitivity. This is not where the true aesthetic sense lies.

Here as always, it's about aiming correctly but doing so with obvious nonchalance and detachment .

Feel free to re-read the articles on howto match colors .

6. ABOUT POLO UNDER A BLAZER

Be open to all pieces of the wardrobe as long as style and elegance prevail over preconceived ideas: including the polo shirt.

Simple like L. Prigent or sophisticated like Dior, the polo/blazer combo (almost) always works.

7. ROLL UP THE BLAZER SLEEVES AND PLAY WITH COLORS

Assembling a beautiful jacket is long and tedious and its use is rather reserved for constructing elegant outfits. Also, we do not recommend rolling up the sleeves to avoid 1) damaging it 2) creating an inconsistency in style between a dressy piece and one that is too casual or even neglected.

OUR SELECTION OF MEN’S BLAZERS

Foreword: all the models presented below are part of the collection available at the time of writing this article (spring-summer 2014). No need to look for the exact same one 6 months later (but you will find excellent equivalents from these same brands).

1. ENTRY-LEVEL BLAZERS

This is necessarily a price range where you can't find anything durable , but you sometimes have to go through that to gain your strengths. The first prices at Zara and H&M start at €50, where you can only find synthetic (or very, very standard cotton). If you aim for the first day of sales, you can get some very good deals there.

As you get closer to €100, you can start to find linen, especially at Zara.

If you want to find noble materials (wool, cotton, etc.), you have to spend more than €100 in these stores.

Although they neglect the finishes and the quality of the materials , these major brands sometimes offer excellent cuts . It becomes relevant to have these blazers retouched to adapt them perfectly to your body shape (curtain, fuselage and bottom sleeves).

David Beckham's range, for example, is correct for a first costume.

It should be noted that a blazer from Zara or H&M hardly lasts more than one season. After this time, the padding becomes deformed (fabric padding at shoulder level), the fabric shows numerous signs of wear and, if you have had the misfortune of taking it to the dry cleaner, the fabric has small unsightly blisters ( because of the iron-on inside the garment)

Finally, we must at all costs specify one last essential thing when browsing these stores looking for a blazer: pay attention to the cut , especially at the back .

At the very top of the entry level, you can fall back on the selection of COS blazers (€190). For slender silhouettes, the sobriety of Swedish fashion is always a safe bet.

2. MID-RANGE BLAZERS

To be preferred over the entry level, it will always be much more durable , and therefore more profitable in the medium term.

Suitsupply is a Dutch brand that we no longer need to introduce and which offers suits with impeccable cuts , quality materials (English tweed, Italian wool, etc.), and with more than respectable fittings (real sleeve openings, semi traditional covering or even full covering, etc.).

Like many other brands we like, this brand's strategic model is one of vertical integration (like Frank & Oak, which we have already discussed ). So, the quality/price ratio is excellent .

Finally, the Suitsupply shop is a great source of inspiration to start putting together advanced looks.

From a casual chic suit to a formal tuxedo, there will be something for everyone.

You can also take a look at Gant Rugger , which offers a very fair compromise between elegance and relaxation in its collections.

Beware of big brands that offer attractive cuts and details at exorbitant prices like The Kooples, Sandro and others. Their communication and distribution structure does not allow them to offer you quality at a competitive price (they make gross margins that are far too high, see our article on the ready-to-wear circuit ).

These brands should only be approached during (so-called) clearance sales and other private sales. This is where the prices of clothing begin to approach a reasonable value considering the quality (a blazer for a little over €200 in general).

We make the same observation as entry-level blazers regarding premature aging: watch out for padding, often synthetic or low-end materials, premature wear, and heat-sealed fabric that creates bubbles.

3. HIGH-END BLAZERS

If you want to focus on quality and durability , you can turn to Filippa K (€300), Acne (€500) or De Fursac (€500) which are safe values.

After the next stage, more elaborate blazers , with cuts presenting stylistic twists , become strong pieces with a lot of character.

This is happening with eclectic and its technical jackets (€700), Ozwald Boateng (€600), WooYoungMi (between €500 and €650) or Dior Homme (€1400).

These dream-inspiring pieces seem inaccessible. However, you should not hesitate to enter luxury stores to try them on, discover what they inspire, observe the details, the finishes and touch the fabrics. This is a necessary step if you want to seize opportunities when they arise (during sales, or from brands with more reasonable prices, although eclectic already offers excellent value for money).

This approach allows you to follow a principle that you should never circumvent: take the time to try and observe . This is a necessary condition for your style to flourish.

BONUS: MAKING MY OWN BLAZER

In the first article , I told you about the method of constructing the fully canvassed jacket that I made this year. Let's leave aside the technical aspect of assembling the garment. It would be too long and off-topic to go into detail. Let's focus instead on the finishes.

The advantage of making your own garment lies in the opportunity to choose your material, lining and buttons.

In this case, I chose a matching liner whose original coupon comes from a luxury house.

Second thing: I made sure to have fun when it was time to choose my buttons. I went to a specialized store in the Marais in order to have a catalog worthy of the name.

For my part, I chose real horn buttons. This material, which is only found on medium and high-end ready-to-wear, is synonymous with elegance and discretion.

At the end of an impromptu photo session, I brought you some photos of this freshly finished Vitale Barberis flannel jacket.

WITHOUT FORGETTING OUR OWN JACKETS AND BLAZERS...

A whole collection of jackets cut from the fabrics of the most beautiful Italian Houses: Ferla, Loro Piana, Botto, Maggia, or even Vitale Barberis Canonico.