A while ago, while I was wandering around my parents' attic, I came across an unusual item. There, between the trinkets and odds and ends, stood a pretty little leather bag, weathered by time.
If I'm telling you this, it's not out of nostalgia, even if it made me smile to imagine my father slipping 100 franc notes, Polaroids, and the keys to his 2-deuch' in there.
But above all, I asked myself a question as I observed the sturdy construction and thick leather of this 40-year-old bag: today, does anyone still produce bags designed to last as long as possible?
Bleu de Chauffe: contemporary bags inspired by old craft bags
So I surveyed the web, and I found what I was looking for at Bleu de Chauffe , a company which takes its name from the blue jacket worn by steam locomotive drivers. The guys at Bleu de Chauffe design products that follow three principles:
- the inspiration for professional bags , in other words “workwear”,
- the use of vegetable tanned leather ,
- 100% French production and know-how.
I tested the "Eclair" postman bag for you in order to get the clean leather .
The bag, freshly unwrapped from its package, gives off a powerful smell of leather.
Next to it, it's my father's famous bag!
Test of the Bleu de Chauffe Eclair bag
Choice of Eclair postal bag
It's important to choose a men's bag based on your clothes and your figure, but use and functionality are other equally important factors.
For the color, I wanted an appearance that was natural, warm and bright. So I chose the “burnt bread” color.
Here, the bag goes perfectly with my shoes,
Richelieus that I bought in Florence
from an Italian bootmaker (unbeatable value for money).
Since I have a 13-inch laptop, I chose the mid-size (not too big, not too small). This model, called "24 hours", is perfect for urban use.
The bag stands out as much on an urban outfit as on a casual "feet in the water" outfit.
Interior fittings
This is the subject on which men are particularly vigilant: what are the interior arrangements? How can you easily access your wallet? Or on his phone? Imagine that on this point, the postman bag is a concentration of well thought-out details.
My first observation was on my computer. I wanted a location reserved for it, which would protect it from scratches and shocks.
This 3mm wool felt is so
dense that I decided to slide my bare computer there
(I am a dangerous madman).
The large white sewing stitch (visible at the top right of the photo), which is also very solid, is only made over about ten centimeters. This tip has two consequences:
- the bottom of the felt cover (where the computer rests) does not touch the bottom of the bag; this tends to protect the computer if the bag is placed roughly on a table or on the floor,
- the felt-computer assembly is relatively mobile in the bag, which allows it to adapt to the contents .
Due to the navy blue felt, the large pocket of the bag
splits into two locations which communicate at the bottom.
Above is the upper part.
The patch pocket against the front is perfect
to accommodate the elements that must be
quickly accessible (wallet, phone).
This is the lower part, where is located
a small case that can be detached.
Hey, I learned it’s Zoé
who made my bag, October 10, 2013
(I'm not used to knowing this sort of thing).
Note from Geoffrey: I inspected the bag carefully, Zoé however did not leave her 06 .
This kit, which can be clipped or detached using press studs, is part of the "Snap" system. It's a concept imagined by Bleu de Chauffe, which allows you to adapt the layout of your bag according to your needs (you can purchase other clip-on covers later).
The material of the Eclair postal bag
Bleu de Chauffe products are only made of premium leather. To be precise, it is full-grain, full-thickness leather .
This is what is best: the skin is not sanded to homogenize the grain, this forces the brand to only choose top quality skins. In addition, the leather is not split to remove thickness. We are dealing with a real, raw product, which exudes authenticity in its production.
By the irregularity of the grain, we immediately see that it is full grain leather.
What makes the quality of the leather is also the work of the tanner .
In classic ready-to-wear, we almost only find chrome-tanned leather, that is to say leather treated and waterproofed with chemical substances. It is very polluting for the environment, and it exposes workers to dangerous products when it is done incorrectly.
Such low prices attest to split and split leather
which will not last a season, but also a tanning
destructive of the environment, harmful to the worker,
or even allergenic for the customer (déjà vu).
On the other hand, in the case of Bleu de Chauffe bags, the leathers are subjected to vegetable tanning .
Vegetable tanning of leather
This technique, long and tedious, consists of bathing the leather in a large barrel filled with oils of vegetable origin: mimosa, acacia, chestnut, etc.
It is the combination of these natural substances with each other that determines the properties of the leather (elasticity, rigidity), as well as the final color.
In addition to the environmental aspect, vegetable tanning has two advantages:
1 - leather develops a patina over time (it becomes more beautiful), because there is no film to cover the leather,
2 - this allows you to use, on the same item, leathers which have complementary properties and different colors .
For example, the straps of the Eclair bag are specially treated
to be rigid, patinated for a shiny appearance,
and tanned to obtain a “pull-up” effect.
The "pull-up" effect, which is only found on luxury leather goods, reveals the transparent side of the leather when you apply a twist to the strap: the fat of the leather rises to its surface and gives a more clear to the twisted area.
Thus, the more the bag is handled, the more these details are revealed and enhance the overall appearance . It's the kind of little extra thing that guarantees the bag will become more beautiful over time with its patina, whereas industrial products simply tend to... wear out.
Note on the care of vegetable tanned leather
Non-pigmented vegetable tanned leather is leather that has been bathed in natural products so much during its tanning that it retains fat inside.
To prolong its suppleness and pleasant touch, it is recommended to maintain it with creams. Be careful, however, to use products of natural origin, without coloring or dyeing. Like the big can of Famaco moisturizing milk, which does the job very well and lasts a while.
Finally, I strongly recommend that you do not use waterproofing, because it is a product that covers the leather and changes its appearance.
The Eclair Bleu de Chauffe postal bag in practice
Now, let's talk about the capacity of the bag. Given that it is a 24-hour bag, I wanted to fill it with all the elements that allow you to carry out the famous " evening at the girlfriend's " test.
Below is my necessary urban survival kit:
Note how I used the small display bag
of the wallet (product presented later)
as a mini toiletry bag, containing the deodorant,
toothbrush, toothpaste, electric razor, etc.
The result is convincing: everything is back.
On the other hand, I had to put the bellows on the side
and the front straps in the “maxi” position.
The bag is well filled, but not overloaded either, since it retains its original shape.
Details of the Eclair postal bag
Because the details often make the difference, here are some elements that caught my attention:
The strap hangs not on the sides, but on the back of the bag.
This originality makes the strap fit close to the body when wearing the bag...
...on the other hand, it tends to open when unfolding when the flanges on the front face are not hooked.
You have to take the hand to close the straps,
because the punch is a bit narrow. This is, however, a necessary difficulty, because the leather
tends to soften from the first days.
In addition to the very successful aesthetic rendering,
passing the straps under the bag gives
of the hold, and prevents the bottom from loosening.
We therefore have an excellent opinion on Bleu de Chauffe. Of course, this type of product has a certain price: €425. But it is really low considering the quality of leather and manufacturing: you are not paying for a Made in France label, but rather for the product itself. The bag is available here .
Bonus: test of the Bleu de Chauffe wallet
When it comes to small leather goods, I have always faced the same problems:
- the wallets are too big: they deform the pockets,
- and the card holders are too small: they cannot accommodate change.
The "As" zipped wallet is an excellent compromise : it fits perfectly in the hand, fits discreetly in a pocket without distorting it, and can accommodate cards, notes and small change.
The two leather inserts compartmentalize
inside the wallet: cards and notes
can be protected from parts, which do not fall thanks to the zip.
The finish is impeccable, the seams are clean,
the zipper is well placed
(it's not an easy task, and I know what I'm talking about).
Last little detail: one corner of the wallet is rounded, to make it easier to slip into jeans pockets, which have this shape.
It’s a product with a great price: €59. It is also available on the Bleu de Chauffe website .
Interview with Alexandre Rousseau of Bleu de Chauffe (co-creator and designer)
- Hello Alexandre, can you tell us about yourself and Bleu de Chauffe?
I am a luxury leather goods designer, and I collect old craft bags. In 2009, I created Bleu de Chauffe with Thierry Batteux, my partner. Our concept: rehabilitate old craft bags.
Bleu de Chauffe now has 13 people, including 10 who work full time in the product manufacturing workshop in Aveyron. For everything that concerns design, commercial development, logistics and administration, there are 3 of us who devote ourselves entirely to it.
- Why do you have everything made in France?
It's more out of pragmatism than anything else. Doing everything in France ultimately has many advantages: being able to constantly control quality, communicate in real time with the teams, and develop new products directly with the craftsmen.
Today, we have a large number of subcontractors and suppliers: we work with three French tanneries, two canvas suppliers, and a felt supplier.
- What is the point of putting the price in a bag like those offered by Bleu de Chauffe?
We are aware that not everyone can buy one of our bags, but they are aimed at people who want to consume differently.
Whether in clothing or accessories, these people prefer to buy less, but buy stylish products that last. The price also allows them to know under what conditions it was made, with what material.
We are really proud to see customers tell us how satisfied they are, three or four years after purchasing one of our bags that they are still wearing.
- Do you have sales?
We are not interested in the process of offering a price to the customer at a given moment, then lowering it some time later.
In fact, we don't have sales, because we consider that that would devalue our products and the work of the artisans. On the other hand, we try to be as reasonable as possible on our margins, and therefore on the final price.
For the customer, this amounts to quality equivalent to that of the luxury industry for (at least) two to three times less expensive.
- How do you work to create the models?
You should know that the design of a leather piece is not done in the same way as textiles in general. Initially, there is an idea in the form of a sketch that I do by hand, then on the computer.
But then, you have to work directly with the material, because leather has its own way of shaping itself. At that point, it almost becomes live sculpture, and it necessarily happens in the workshop.
This is another advantage of having all the production tools on the territory: we can work directly with the people who make the bag, taking into account questions of durability, points of weakness, volume adjustments and of uses.
- What are the medium-term projects?
At the moment, we have a project on the world of motorcycles which will arrive soon.
Otherwise, we will add new models based on trends, uses, and our desires - it's exciting to create bags. We started with 3 bags, now we have 60.
We will continue to do collaborations with other brands, this allows us to work on the use, the spirit, by playing on colors and materials.
We are increasingly developing small leather goods, of which you presented the As model. These are products that seem simple to make, but they are not at all!
In fact, this is the paradox of quality small leather goods: it is all the more difficult to create as they are small objects. At this dimension, the behavior of matter is unpredictable. The creation of such a product therefore requires long hours of work and numerous prototypes.
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Thanks to the Bleu de Chauffe team and Tommy, their communications manager, for allowing us to do this test when we turned to them.
