The Glencoe mac, or how to tell the difference from a classic

Le mac Glencoe, ou comment faire la différence avec un classique
Our team tells you about the creation of a coat that resists trends, wind, rain and above all stylistic boredom. Available now for pre-order on our site.

1 - Safe value for 200 years

The story of this coat does not begin in the notebooks of our product team but in those of Charles Macintosh, who invented the raincoat of the same name in Glasgow in 1823. At the time of its marketing, the latter was made of rubber and could easily melt in the heat.

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Very quickly, we added a “k” to the usage to call it “Mackintosh”. Since then, its success has been such that we speak of "Mack" or "Mac" (nothing to do with the computer, which refers to a variety of apples) to designate any waterproof coat of the same shape, often beige.

This shape quickly established itself as a classic in the men's wardrobe. A shirt collar, a line of buttons and two slanted pockets. As simple and effective as a white t-shirt, raw jeans or denim jacket.

And like the latter, the pimp first became an icon in cinema. On the shoulders of elegant men such as a certain Steve Macqueen for example.

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Steve Macqueen in the 1968 film Bullit. Photo credit: Sunset Boulevard/Corbis via Getty Images.

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Jonathan Rhys Meyers in the film Match Point in 2005. Credit: BBC Films / The Montecito Picture Company /UK Film Council.

After breaking the screen, he takes to the streets. First worn by connoisseurs then taken up by luxury brands, it became popular on a large scale in the 90s following the purchase of the Mackintosh brand by Daniel Dunko. The latter then relaunched it commercially.

Since then, from the brand or not, the mac reigns without bending the knee to trends and becomes the timeless coat that we know today. Just look at the success of those found in thrift stores these days.

Like the trench coat, we wear it first over our suit to go to the office on rainy days. Then the creators diverted it from its “English gentleman” connotation, even as far as Japan. This is precisely where the fun starts.

2 - The quest for a cut that sets you apart, Japanese street style

Comments from Antoine, stylist and visual merchandiser at BonneGueule

"I love the way the Japanese play with fashion for two reasons:

  1. They know how to take a piece out of its style very well, mixing streetwear, tailoring, sportswear and sometimes even military clothing to create looks that you don't see elsewhere. As a result, their use of the mac is not limited to formal outfits, quite the contrary. They wear it over a suit as well as with jeans and sneakers to go shopping.
  2. They handle volumes like no one else. Playing on the scale and drape of materials thanks to the well-crafted designs of their creators. It makes an outfit stand out and exudes comfort.

Every month, I watch the creations of Japanese brands and I find it crazy. I also regularly receive streetstyle magazines. I found two examples for you that perfectly embody our inspiration for this mac. "

- Antoine, stylist, visual merchandiser and Japanese fashion enthusiast at BonneGueule

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japan style outfit

Comments from Julien, collection manager at BonneGueule

“We wanted a loose cut but with a purpose, a precise volume like Japanese designers. This is what makes the difference between a garment that gives style and a garment that is just too big.

At the same time, we didn't want this volume to be too imposing. This mac had to remain easy to wear and for that, it was not necessary to overdo it.

This cut should also allow the fall of the material to express itself, particularly on the shoulders and sleeves.

To find this balance, we designed a first prototype that we had several members of the team try in the office, to ensure that it would suit several body types. We asked for everyone's opinions and took steps to request adjustments to the workshop.

We repeated the exercise for 3 prototypes, just to be certain that the volumes would suit what we were looking for and that the material would hang well, without excess fabric.

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We ended up with this slightly flared cut, loose at the sleeves just right and whose length stops at mid-thighs, so that it has an assertive style while being suitable for as many people as possible.

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We find that this cut highlights the fall of the material, particularly on the shoulders where it draws a beautiful rounded line.

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Moreover, another touch of originality: the shoulder is classic at the front and raglan at the back, to mark a difference with ordinary macs.

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The quest for the perfect shoulder

“Obtaining this unique shoulder while having a nice rounded shape took a lot of work from us. Even more so with a material that has staying power like here.

For this design stage, taking steps to request adjustments was not enough. So I designed what we call a pattern: a shape in cotton canvas that the workshop reproduces to the nearest centimeter to make the final sleeve. We then applied it to our prototype during testing to see the difference it would make.

It’s a meticulous operation that takes time but the result speaks for itself, I’m very happy with it!”

- Landry, product technician and model maker

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To provide more comfort when seated, especially if you wear it on a bike or scooter, we have chosen to place the third button higher than on most Macs.

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The buttons are made of horn, naturally solid.

The shirt collar has generous dimensions: 7 cm wide, to add presence.

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And of course, no hood to stay true to the iconic mac aesthetic. In case of rain, you can complete it with a headgear, an umbrella or simply accept having your hair a little wet. Especially for simple urban rains.

Its waterproof material will take care of the rest."

- Julien, collection manager

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Under the collar, you will find a button placket that allows it to be closed all the way up.

3 - Timeless against bad weather

Comments from Benoît, co-founder of BonneGueule

"As you know, I am very sensitive to the issue of clothing that protects against the elements. And for me, mac is clothing that must be effective against:

  • the wind, which can easily make a mid-season day unpleasant
  • rain, which can quickly soak into the cotton clothing worn underneath

So I didn't want a simple, soft cotton fabric like you see on a lot of Macs. I wanted it to have a real hidden technicality that will allow you to fully enjoy your days.

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To do this, we selected a fabric from the Italian Olmetex. A technical combination of cotton and synthetic that I particularly liked with:

  • very good wind resistance due to its dense weave
  • An excellent impermeability thanks to its membrane, especially since its synthetic fibers will dry faster than cotton in the event of a heavy downpour
  • a beautiful natural appearance , thanks to the expertise of Olmetex which works very well with the texture and colors of its materials
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And above all: hold and support , which underlines the precision of its cut and its presence.

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In short, it's the kind of fabric that you see on very few macs, thanks to the know-how of a very experienced weaver who works in Italy.

This quality of manufacturing also makes it very durable. If you take care of it, you can keep it for decades and then pass it on, just like you should be able to do with a Mac.

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Another important point for me: breathability, guaranteed here by the size of the cut and the ventilation eyelets which let the air circulate without problem.

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It is also made possible by the absence of lining inside, which required careful and fully bound tailoring for a clean finish:

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We wanted to offer you this fabric in two colors:

  • the essential beige, for those who love the classics
  • a khaki that stands out by leaning towards sage, for those who prefer to play originality."

- Benoît, co-founder of BonneGueule

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Pimp Glencoe's ID card

Material: 62% polyester, 28% cotton and 10% polyurethane from Olmetex (Italy).

Weight: 309 gr/m2, moderate thickness and suitable for mid-season. You can also wear it on rainy summer evenings and in winter with a sweater.

Water-repellent treatment guaranteed without substances dangerous to health (PFC free).

Manufacturing: piece woven in Italy then assembled in western Ukraine by a workshop of the French manufacturer Lener Cordier.

4 - Practical, not to say magical

So that you can secure your belongings in a flash, we have hidden a zip in each front pocket. By passing your hand through this opening, you will easily access your pants pockets underneath.

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Practical for you when your Mac is closed, much less for pick pockets on the tram.

In the office we call them magic pockets . See our magic trick (guaranteed without trickery):

Inside, you will also find a zipped pocket for your wallet or glasses.

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5 - To wear while having fun

Words from Jordan, creative manager, brand content and stylist at BonneGueule

“I may not have put together these looks but no one is going to stop me from commenting on them.

(editor’s note: We owe them to Antoine Gautier. Thanks to him. And congratulations above all.)

When you think about it, a mac is a straight garment, with a shirt collar, single-breasted, that is to say not crossed, equipped with two pockets on the sides.

It's really not intimidating.

You already carry a lot more intimidating than that. And even if you've never worn one, the beauty of this piece is that it's so refined that it suits everyone, no matter your style.

The trench coat on the other hand… but that’s another story.

If your heart swings between green and beige and you don't have either, start with beige. You will buy a green one later. For my part, it will be khaki, because I already have a beige.

See how straight I am in my boots.

Look n°1 - You're so French

Perfect for:

  • Stroll the streets
  • Ending up on the cover of a Japanese streetstyle magazine
  • Go for a drink after work
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A pimp is not only worn when it rains. It can be worn when it's windy too or when the wool coat would be too hot or even when you just want it.

So, white pants are not incompatible. And you will also notice that it goes perfectly with beige. Besides, white pants go with everything and that's why we love them.

As it is spring and sometimes the sun hides, an intermediate jacket is essential. The mac, as beautiful as it is, has a discreet texture so don't hesitate: take out your most weathered denim jacket or simply the most beautiful and throw a t-shirt or shirt underneath.

Here a colorful t-shirt just to spice up this dish that we serve in the street. Streetstyle salad.

And then you might think that Marin bought those pink tulips just to match her burgundy loafers. You can think so and frankly… it would be a bit too much, wouldn’t it?

Still, it all works.

Look 2 - Find colors that love each other

Perfect for:

  • On windy days (mac + hoodie = heart)
  • Aperitifs with friends
  • Any occasion not too formal
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Who's afraid of green? Not us in any case. Because green is much friendlier than we think with other colors. If you go to the Basque Country it rubs shoulders with red. In many flags around the world, it is associated with yellow.

In this look, Antoine (the stylist) combined it with pink. And it's a little wonder for the eyes. Not just any pink of course. A soft pink, washed, faded even, which nicely tickles the military green of this mac.

It's no coincidence that they go well together: they are complementary colors. On the color wheel they face each other. And so they oppose each other as much as they attract to form a striking and sufficient contrast that the eye will read well. In short, they love each other.

The rest is filler: cream-colored pants to offer the same intensity as the sweater without interfering with the beautiful love story of the two pieces above, brown shoes to make a nice bridge to this green which browns and the blue scarf is the little touch that creates the necessary imbalance.

Look 3 - 1950s advert

Perfect for:

  • To go to the office
  • One evening at the opera
  • A rainy wedding
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Mac + tailoring = heart. Obviously. And if you need a lightweight all-purpose jacket as we enter the mid-season, this is the perfect garment to go with anything formal.

Putting together a timeless outfit for yourself is simple: your best blue suit, a white (or sky) oxford shirt (cooler than poplin; this is an opinion that is solely mine... and all of America's ) and moccasins (cooler than derbies; this is an opinion that only concerns me… and America once again) and nothing can happen to you.

Maybe except someone stops you in the street and asks if it's you, Don Draper. In which case, say “yes” and trace your route proudly.

The bob? What’s a rain bucket hat? Have you ever seen one? Our grandparents wore them and they weren't wrong. We are campaigning for its return and not just in casual outfits.

Come on, you're going to be late for the office.

Look 4 – Make the ordinary extraordinary

Perfect for:

  • Go to the market
  • Meet your soul mate
  • Come see the family
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It starts by consolidating the basics: green mac, beige chinos, dark brown shoes and white t-shirt.

So far nothing extravagant. Yes they are moccasins but they have been making a comeback for years now and at this point I don't think you'd call it a trend but rather a return to sanity if you ask me.

But as it's still a little chilly, you have to count on layering upstairs so you don't spend your day shivering.

Our layering somelier offers you today: a pink cotton gauze shirt and a bleach denim work jacket. Frankly, on paper, one might have doubts about this association and yet in reality, it works. So sometimes you just have to go against your intuitions a little and try something new.

Oh and the sunglasses? It’s for show off, don’t you have anything against it?”

- Jordan, creative manager, brand content and stylist at BonneGueule

Bonus: our team’s looks

Antoine, Jordan and Romain take orders.

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Michel Bojarun Michel Bojarun
Michel Bojarun,

Full-time clothing geek at BonneGueule and temporary turntable geek at Berghain (one day). Lover of straight pants, tank tops, gold chains, western belts (2cm wide max, obviously) and *insert any retro-kitsch clothing*.

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