A little less than a year ago we released our softshell.
It’s a piece that was very close to my heart: for the first time, I designed an entire garment from the BonneGueule line.
I wanted it to be as accomplished as possible, trying to think about all aspects of product development.
After the Stylish Man's Guide, here is Maslow's pyramid of the Stylish Man
So obviously, I am proud of all the collections we have released and, with Alexandre, we always want to surpass ourselves. I was telling myself that we could do even better and go further in product innovation …
How? By developing a piece that had never been done before, with an X factor . What the French mysteriously call "a je ne sais quoi" or even "the big cherry on the cake ", if you prefer.
You gave this softshell a great welcome, it quickly sold out! Many of you also gave us very relevant feedback to improve it further, especially from our biker friends.
So we decided to reissue it. A second version, revised and corrected, even better than the first.
To tell you the truth, we knew from the launch of the first version that this one would arrive in turn. Subtle detail: we lengthened it by 3 cm so that it better accompanies your silhouette.
An update of the softshell V2
Here's what's new:
- the hood is deeper and is now equipped with a tightening system,
- the collar has a better hold,
- the chest pockets are now fitted with hidden snap buttons,
- the end of the sleeves can be tightened with one hand via a strap with velcro,
- the softshell is a little longer,
- the lining is in mesh to increase breathability and that of the sleeves in viscose to facilitate the "slide" when you put it on.
Let’s see all these points in detail!
The starting point: how to manage temperature variations?
Mid-season complications
As is often the case, everything starts with my own needs. In this case, in this period called "mid-season", getting dressed is always complicated .
Did I already tell you that I often go back to Tours on weekends? Well, now it's done.
Often, it's a nice afternoon and I go out to the banks of the Loire, without the slightest idea of when I'll be back. . And this is where the problem comes in:
- If I leave with just a sweatshirt, I'll be cold in the evening , especially if I walk home. And if it rains, there's nothing to do...
- If I leave with a piece that is a bit too thick, I am too hot all afternoon and have to wait for the weather to cool down to finally be comfortable.
I remember thinking this very well at about 2am as I was walking home across Wilson Bridge . It had been a very warm day but by nightfall the temperatures had dropped below 14°C.
It is this large thermal amplitude that is complicated to manage. We also find it in the city with public transport, for example.
Wilson Bridge, a place conducive to reflection...
A reflection that matures...
In my head, my first requirements for this piece were taking shape:
- We needed something that could be worn at 12-15°C, as well as at 20°C…
- …rain or shine,
- can be carried in a way other than on the arm, to be comfortable all afternoon if it is hot.
In short, a piece capable of handling pronounced temperature amplitudes in mid-season , rain and wind, all with style and functionality .
Basically, I was looking for the five-legged sheep... At the time, I even said to myself "Benoît, you're going a bit far this time" .
So it's true, there is urban techwear, but Acronym and Arc'teryx Veilance may be very nice brands, but at €1,228 and €900 respectively for the jacket, it's... "a little" expensive.
So I went to see Alex to talk to him about my feelings. Here is a faithful summary of what we said:
- I answered him with determination.
Some brainstorming sessions Later, the idea of the softshell came to us.
Why a softshell?
This is a very common product among hikers.
So, they are quite wide, with zips and inserts everywhere, in colours and textures that are too sporty. And I don't want to look like a hiker when I sit on the terrace .
I wanted a cool softshell that you would want to wear every day. So I took out my best pencils and started drawing a prototype, like Alfred in Batman:
Yes, this is a real drawing. From the beginning, I wanted fairly light lines of force with a refined look, as I usually do. This softshell had to be treated like an urban jacket, not like a hiking garment.
I could see the design more clearly, a practical softshell with an urban look. However, the main thing was elsewhere: I had to find THE material.
Indeed, finding a technical and waterproof material is rather simple, but finding one that does not have a "hiking aspect", believe me, is another matter (and the prices are skyrocketing).
So with Alexandre, we did several Première Vision shows. After searching, we finally found a partner capable of providing us with this X Fabric : Sympatex. .
Sympatex is a company that we have been following for a long time. It specializes in the production of exceptional techwear , especially for people who want to climb Everest... but not only!
I was very reassured to see that they had already worked with Acronym, Nobis or Maharishi , the proof in pictures:
Finally, after several months of development with Sympatex and about ten round trips in production, we got there. As we will see, it was not an easy adventure!
A soft shell of 1,200 grams in perfect health. The parents are happy.
A beautiful material above all
As I mentioned, finding a nice technical material:
- which is neither black, nor blue, nor in bright colors,
- with a minimally urban aspect,
It's a real pain!
Imagine my joy at Sympatex when I came across:
- a mottled khaki material,
- which looks like gabardine ,
- waterproof AND breathable !
If you look at the material closely, you will see all its subtlety. This is exactly what I wanted.
You see the rather particular aspect of the material, I did not want a banal technical fabric. Note how it prevents drops from penetrating. 😉
A high-performance material
It is a so-called "two-ply" (or " two-ply laminated ") fabric.
- There is an outer layer of polyester, the one that is visible. It is this which gives the visual aspect of the piece and which is water-repellent .
- Below, there is the famous Sympatex membrane, breathable and waterproof .
In terms of waterproofing, the material resists a pressure of a water column of 45,000 mm , while most waterproofing tests stop at 20,000 mm. ! Basically, this means that you can fill a 45 meter tube with water, placed on our material, without the water passing through.
The Holy Grail of Breathability
In terms of breathability , it's a bit more technical. In fact, we measure the material's ability to let water vapor pass through, this is the RET index. For this, I refer you to Milone's definition in his introduction to techwear:
RET (Resistance Evaporative Transfer) is the index (which has become somewhat the standard) that measures the ability of a fabric to let water vapor generated by the body (perspiration) escape . The lower the index, the more it indicates that the garment is breathable.
- RET less than 6: very breathable,
- RET between 6 and 12: breathable,
- RET between 12 and 20: weakly breathable,
- RET above 20: not breathable.
Here the RET is 6, which makes it really breathable.
A little aside on breathable clothing
Let's be clear, clothing, no matter how breathable, is not the miracle solution to sweating. If you sweat in a t-shirt, it's not by adding an extra layer, no matter how airy, that you'll be less hot or sweat less. I prefer to be very clear about this.
On the other hand, if it's the act of adding a layer that usually makes you sweat, having a breathable material makes perfect sense here.
Here you will find an interactive animation , where you can click on each element to understand how it works.
A hydrophilic/phobic active membrane
A bit atypical, it is a membrane that does not have pores.
Most membranes assume that a raindrop is much larger than the sweat that escapes from the body. They are therefore covered with tiny pores that only allow the latter to pass through. The problem is that after a while, when there is a lot of sweating, the pores become clogged with water and breathability decreases .
On our Sympatex membrane, it is thanks to a clever combination of hydrophilic components on the inside (which attract water) and hydrophobic components on the outside that perspiration is evacuated.
Note that the higher the indoor humidity, the faster the transfer, that is to say it becomes more and more effective as you sweat.
A material with some technical constraints
A demanding confection
First of all, a beautiful technical material has a price (roughly that of a high-end wool flannel). But thanks to our tight margins, we can offer you this piece at a price lower than what it would cost elsewhere.
This material allows for a visual appearance far removed from “hiking wear”, but this comes at a price!
And then, above all, we need workshops specialized in this type of assembly.
For example, it was necessary to put in waterproof seams to ensure the waterproofing of the piece. It is a very technical process, which takes time , and is therefore doubly expensive. I quickly understood why the smallest piece with waterproof seams directly cost a few hundred euros.
On this subject, let's be clear: a jacket with a beautiful high-performance material , assembled with waterproof seams, costs at least 400 euros. If it's cheaper, it's because we've made savings either on the material or on the assembly.
An ecological approach
The most amazing thing about Sympatex is that they have managed to make very high-performance membranes , while making them environmentally friendly . Yes, the membrane is 100% recyclable, like a simple plastic bottle. And they are the only ones to do this.
Also important: the membrane does not contain PFC (=perfluorinated compounds), an endocrine disruptor often present in sports clothing .
Finally, Sympatex works hard to reuse membrane production waste, up to 15%, something rare enough to be worth mentioning.
An urban and technical softshell
The hood
This time, it was necessary to find the right size of the collar stand to be able to pass the chin, while giving a little character to the piece.
Thanks to your feedback, we have improved it compared to the previous version. Deeper , it also has a tightening tab at the back. You can thus adjust it according to the size of your head .
Thanks to this tightening tab, the hood will hold perfectly: you can adjust it according to the size of your head.
It is obviously removable : when the weather is nice, perhaps you want a less "sportswear" look, without a hood.
It is therefore held in place by a system of zips and snaps which, without anyone noticing, cover the collar with the seams. And we managed to make everything invisible once the hood is removed: no zips or snaps exposed.
Once the hood is removed, a flap covers the fastening system for a finer finish. It also dresses the collar, bringing an interesting little twist.
At the same time, we reinforced the heat-sealing for a better hold of the collar .
Functional and discreet pockets
You will see two very sleek patch pockets on the chest, which you can now keep securely closed with snap buttons.
The chest pockets now have a hidden snap on the V2.
You will also find a small invisible pocket on the heart side, zipped, with a slight offset of the seam which gives an asymmetrical touch that I liked.
And the famous invisible pocket on the heart side! The little card holder that Jason slips into his pocket is a Bellroy model, a young brand of affordable small leather goods that we discovered recently. I had a little crush on it: the design is cute and without any superfluous, while being very practical.
As for the two hand pockets , they have some special features:
- They are zipped, so as not to lose their contents,
You will no longer lose your personal belongings...
- The right pocket contains an internal pocket specifically for your phone , so that it is well maintained during transport and, above all, completely removes the risk of falling,
...Even less your cell phone, protected by the pocket in the pocket.
- The left pocket contains a small internal carabiner for your keys . Here too, I have sometimes seen them fall out of my friends' side pockets. Here, no more risks: they are well held and will not come loose, even when the pocket is open!
You can finally hang your keys on a carabiner, no risk of them disappearing.
A redesigned central throat
You know me, I love textured fabrics.
This is why the snap fasteners in the central throat are placed on a large grain which gives the piece its identity .
The grosgrain brings a "raw" touch that lends itself well to the spirit of the piece, giving it more character. Important point: the snaps are raised so you can slide your thumb underneath and snap them more easily .
As for the central zip, it is a silver YKK, because it is a zip color that I really like.
A soft lining
Here too, your recommendations have been there .
Initially, we opted for a blend of viscose and cotton.
Finally, we swapped it for a mesh lining to increase the breathability of the softshell.
With a mesh lining, the softshell gains even more breathability.
For the inside of the sleeves, we chose viscose. As breathable as cotton , it "slips" for easy donning.
A special strap
This is certainly the point on which I most annoyed Alexandre. It is a slightly unexpected but terribly practical element, so much so that even Zegna Sport is getting involved!
The observation is simple: it is a garment to wear in mid-season but, while waiting for the cool of the evening or if it is really hot in full sun, carrying your jacket by hand becomes painful .
That's when I remembered seeing, in winter, some Montreal women carrying their Canada Goose on their backs in the overheated metro, while it was -15°C outside. . Then I remembered Rick Owens' early collections, which also featured straps for carrying.
Before human backpacks, you could wear your Rick Owens jacket across your shoulder.
So we needed one on our softshell! It's the kind of detail that we're not used to at first and that we ultimately regret not seeing more often! In case of heat, just take off the jacket and wear it over your shoulder.
This is a detail that, in my eyes, is ultimately not one. We see it far too rarely and I am very happy to offer it to you!
As I was about to choose a simple strap, Alexandre stopped me:
Benoît, we worked a lot on the material and the lining. It would be silly to choose a strap that you see everywhere, right?
He was right, so we had a little fun with the choice of straps by choosing a mottled gray reference from an Italian supplier.
You will finally be able to walk around hands-free.
That being said, its installation was complicated because it was necessary to find the right way to stitch the strap into the material and not only into the lining, so that it would be resistant. But if you don't want this strap, don't worry! It is completely removable thanks to a velcro closure.
Thoughtful clamping legs
On the first version, we opted for a tab with snap buttons.
At the request of our motorcycle readers, we have redesigned the system. It now relies on Velcro, so you can choose a tighter or looser fit depending on your preference .
One hand is enough for this operation!
A strip of velcro passed through a strap...
...which you can tighten until you get the desired result.
It's up to you!
How to maintain softshell?
To activate the water repellency of your softshell , iron it in a "flat linen" (with a handkerchief or cloth between the iron and the fabric) for 5 minutes at thermostat 2 - or 150° - when you receive it.
This is one piece that doesn't need to be washed often, unless you've had a huge disaster with it.
Machine washing at 30°C once a year with a minimum spin cycle is sufficient. Complete this step by ironing at thermostat 1 (110°) directly on the material and presto, you will reactivate the water repellency.
On the other hand, no dry cleaning!
How to wear a softshell?
Taking the casual influences of the softshell, Jason completes it with a sweatshirt and chinos. We really wanted to make it a piece without any hassle! Otherwise, a beige chino will go with almost everything and is a good way to bring light to your looks. The mottled burgundy of the sweatshirt brings relief in the middle of the other textures, relatively smooth, and the sneakers take up the sand / earth tones of the outfit to finish it harmoniously. (Benjamin Jézéquel sweatshirt, Cuisse de Grenouille chinos, Nike Air Max sneakers)
Khaki is a color that refers to a very masculine aesthetic, thanks to its use in the military world in particular. Luca, a young badass in the making, relies on materials with raw DNA to reinforce this dimension: raw jeans in very thick canvas, two-material workboots and henleys in very thick cotton. Ready for adventure? ( Merz B. Schwanen T-shirt , BonneGueule jeans , Heschung boots)
Another look with a T-shirt, with very different influences: it is proof of the role that such a "simple" item can play in an outfit! The very worked cut of the pants brings research to the whole, where the colors remain sufficiently sober to slip in python sneakers that add a "designer" dimension. (Norse Projects T-shirt, Maharishi pants, Lanvin sneakers)
A softshell can also be worn with a shirt. Here, Jason sticks to simple tones: gray, blue, khaki; you can't go wrong. As is often the case in an outfit made up of several colors, white sneakers are an excellent option. This is the kind of easy outfit that you can already reproduce very well! (Office Artist shirt, BonneGeule jeans , Mango Homme sneakers)
Khaki is a color that always goes well with blue and gray, which are the dominant shades in your wardrobe. Don't hesitate to rely on it!
You can modulate the casualness of your softshell by playing with the hood: once it is removed, the jacket takes on the proportions of a safari jacket. It then becomes easier to wear it with a dress shirt, as Luca does here with a white model left intentionally out. To avoid too marked contrasts, forget the tie and overly formal shoes. It is in this spirit that raw denim and desert boots find their perfect place. ( BonneGueule shirt , New Standard Edition jeans, Bobbies desert boots)
How to choose your size?
The sizing is very classic, just take your usual size! I know I say this every time I launch, but it's that simple!
How to get the BonneGueule softshell?
The softshell is now available in our shop and in our boutiques .
