Note: Nicolas is a friend of ours and a big fan of Hedi Slimane . He spontaneously offered us to write his humble opinion (but full of little tips that will be useful to you when you see a brand for the first time) on the arrival of Slimane as director of Saint Laurent. I also stopped by the store to see what it was. Here are our two respective opinions.

Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent: Nicolas' verdict on what we can see in store

Note: in this article I give my opinion on the Spring/Summer 2013 collection currently in store. So I won't talk about the first Fall/Winter 2013 fashion show that we saw last January.

For the reader who has not followed the news and/or does not know Hedi Slimane, I invite him to refer to this article by Valéry.

Introduction

Five years after leaving Dior Homme, Hedi Slimane made his return to fashion at Yves Saint Laurent, which he renamed “Saint Laurent” (no, we don’t pronounce Paris).

SS 2013 Men's Campaign. The model, Saskia de Brauw, is... a woman!

It's been a few months since we were able to see the advertising campaign, the lookbook, and even the collection on the official online store or sites such as Luisaviaroma .

And of course, everyone moans:

“Yes yes, Slimane is doing Slimane! »

“Pfff, The Kooples does the same thing, thanks Hedi! »

“I thought I was watching an episode of The Walking Dead when I saw its models…”

But once in the store, what does it look like? Well I was pleasantly surprised. Of course, there is nothing very original: let's remember that this is the first collection, which must logically be content to lay the foundations (there was no fashion show). But I found it quite successful. Overview.

1. Style

“Slimane is Slimane and will always be Slimane. " A fan.

To be convinced, just look at the lookbook of the Spring/Summer collection as well as that of the “ Skinny Collection ” (a small collection that revolves around more casual clothing) (note from Benoit: I won't hide the fact that I have trouble with the model ).

No doubt, he's back.

People can say whatever they want, the “Slimane touch” is inimitable ( note from Benoit: I agree. Even if I have difficulty with the character behind it, as a designer he always aims very well . His vision of men's fashion is not high ). When I read on forums that The Kooples and company do the same thing, I laugh.

I find it hard to understand those who were expecting something new, especially from the beginning. There will certainly be more creation afterwards, and probably an evolution over the years to come, but it will always remain Slimane: hoping for something totally different makes no sense.

This is valid for any designer: if tomorrow Rick Owens stops creating clothes for 5 and then makes a comeback, we will certainly find the same characteristic style...

In short, Slimane's style is intact. That’s good, that’s what his fans were waiting for.

Haters gonna hate
(note from Benoit: the model is wearing the star shirt of the collection, costing over €400...)

2. Details and quality

- “Wesh hello did you see!

- Hello Sir, would you like some information?

- Go ahead, where are the t-shirts with the big YSL logo there?

- Ah we don't do that anymore, it was the old collection. Hedi Slimane, the new artistic director, has remodeled many things.

- Eh ? Wesh who is this bastard? Come on, come on, let's go back to D&G! »

(Almost authentic) dialogue between a (ex-) Saint Laurent customer and a saleswoman.

You may have noticed that many designers like to put a distinctive signature on their clothes: sign, stitching, logo, jewelry, etc.

At Dior Homme, a line that Slimane created in 2001, these are two seams called “scars” that we find on the back of clothes, on the back pockets of jeans and on certain pairs of sneakers as well. All Dior Homme clothing has these scars, except for some formal clothing such as jackets or pants.

At Saint Laurent, no distinctive sign of this kind on the outside of clothing, except on jeans (2 vertical seams at the back, below the waistband) as we can see here:

Note from Benoit: Saint Laurent jeans do have a chain stitch hem, but no selvedge ticket pocket and even fewer hidden rivets. However, we are on jeans for more than €350!

What about inside the clothes? Well we find a small silver-colored chain (gold for women) at the collar, just above the label. I find it very successful, it's the kind of detail that you expect to find on a garment in this range.

Note from Benoit: the chain is placed by hand,
which is supposed to guarantee solidity in the fixing...

In terms of buttons and zips , we are of good quality and everything is engraved “Saint Laurent Paris” (except when this is unwelcome, like for the jackets).

Tip : I advise the reader to systematically look at details such as zips, buttons, rivets . This can give an indication of the quality or more generally an idea of ​​the care given to the garment. For example, brands such as Dior or Lanvin use zippers from the Italian brand Lampo, which are qualitatively superior to the common YKK. Be careful not to become too categorical either: there are several ranges of zips for the same brand: for example Wooyoungmi or Julius use YKK zips, but they are not the same as the low cost PAP brands of course.

Beyond the brand, also focus on the quality of the zip/button: material, color, size, etc. Has the brand taken care to personalize it (by engraving its name for example)? Is it consistent with the rest of the piece?

We are sometimes very disappointed! A few minutes before going to Saint Laurent, I was at Givenchy and I noticed that the non-catwalk pieces (outside the show) had common, basic and ugly YKK zips: on leather for 1500 euros, that doesn't look good...

Concerning the quality of the materials : I am not an expert, but I would say that we are, unsurprisingly, of a quality equivalent to other competing luxury brands.

Note that the linings are satin or silk, but once again my knowledge does not allow me to say that it is necessarily superior to cupro for example.

Tip : take the time to look at the composition of the materials! I'm always amazed at how many people don't take this into account... It doesn't cost anything and you'll learn a lot over time. This can also help you distinguish the quality of a garment. Take it as a game: look at the garment without touching it and try to guess what materials it is made of. Then do the same thing this time by touching it. You can then check if you were right!

Place of manufacture: unsurprisingly, everything is “ Made in Italy ” (or “ Made in Japan ” for most denim items).

3. Clothes

Now let's look at clothing. I didn't look at everything, quite simply because I'm not interested in everything: so I focused on the big pieces such as leathers, jackets, jackets, as well as jeans and sneakers. So I didn't, or almost didn't, look at the shirts, knits, shoes, pants.

Large pieces

I was able to see a lot of beautiful pieces, certainly not the most original but not basic either, and everything seemed very well executed.

The leathers are magnificent, we are using very good lambskin:

Generally speaking, leather can be worn with just about everything: simple t-shirt, casual shirt, tie shirt... Of course it all depends on the cut and treatment of the leather: it's up to you to judge if the outfit is coherent.

In the following examples, we can see Hedi Slimane wearing leather in different ways, but always with this little neglected side:

Here with a simple t-shirt and jeans, for a bit of a “what the fuck” look

The same leather this time with shirt and tie, and we can very well imagine pants and shoes just like jeans/sneakers for the bottom.

With a very casual shirt

Ripped shirt/t-shirt, slim jeans and boots.

Here is a pea coat with pretty buttons, here worn simply with a sailor top:

An original jacket with 2 vertical zips:

This is an atypical, slightly sophisticated and more risky piece to integrate into an outfit: preferably worn with a shirt and pants as in the photo.

The safari jacket is successful, as is its shorter version which becomes a jacket:

The denim jackets are basic but one caught my attention with its black/blue treatment, which you can't see in the photo:

I would like to take this opportunity to make a few comments on how to wear a faded denim jacket:

A simple and effective casual outfit.

Here with t-shirt, jeans and sneakers. Why is this going so well? Simply the choice of colors.

We can then take the opportunity to observe the following rule: with a faded denim jacket, you should not wear denim in the same tone!

It is in fact necessary to have a strong contrast between the jeans and the jacket otherwise it will look “too much”. It's not at all insignificant that Hedi chose plain black jeans for the photo.

Example of a “ full denim ” outfit to avoid at all costs:

Daniel, what is this? :-/

In addition, a faded denim jacket is not necessarily worn with a t-shirt or clothing in the same spirit (dirty/faded/casual). Just like a pair of faded jeans can fit into a “clean” shoes/pants/jacket type outfit, so can the denim jacket.

Fans of the Misfits series will have noticed that the character Simon, often very well dressed, systematically wears his denim jacket with shirt/pants/shoes:

Simon (left) in the series Misfits, wears a Levis jean jacket.

Quite a few sweatshirts/hoodies with zips placed in unexpected places:

Several jackets, including the 3 buttons that Hedi likes:

Military jacket :

In short, many pieces offer too little risk-taking, but still maintain a solid style! Quite logical for a first collection.

The jeans

There are 3 cuts:

• “Skinny”: very close to the body, bottom opening 16cm.

• “Slim”: fitted, bottom opening 17.5 cm.

• “Straight”: a straight cut that still remains well adjusted, bottom opening 19cm.

In terms of raw jeans, we find “ Made in Japan ” selvedge jeans, very loose, and other non-selvedge jeans, made in Japan or Italy (on the latter the fabric is finer).

On these jeans, even the “decoration” seams are selvedge!
A sign for purists .

Concerning the washes, they are very classic (used, bleached…: see Luisaviaroma). Let's assume that these are the basics and that the original things will arrive for the next collection (this is even certain when we look at the FW13 fashion show, to be seen in stores in a few months).

The “Skinny” cut.

Tip : beyond choosing jeans adapted to your body type, I recommend to take jeans with a lot of length in order to create a so-called “stacking” effect (the folds that will form at the bottom). For what ? Because it's more beautiful and even essential if you wear high-top sneakers. Compare for yourself to convince yourself. By the way, when you try on jeans in the store, put on your shoes/sneakers at the same time to see how they look! Too many customers just try on jeans while wearing socks, and then have no idea of ​​the result with shoes...

Note from Geoffrey: this is true for very tight jeans, but I recommend that an uninformed public follow Nicolas's (otherwise fair) advice.

Saint Laurent jeans, like Dior Homme, have a single length which must correspond to a 36 if I'm not mistaken, therefore very long: this is a desire of the designer. Don't panic, the jeans won't give the impression of being too long because whatever the opening at the bottom, they will be sufficiently tight at the ankle. However, if you find the stacking (= the "accordion" folds) too pronounced, there is nothing stopping you from doing a touch-up.

Dior Homme SS 2004: stacking as we like it!

Sneakers

It is very easy to navigate since there are currently 2 models: low and high. Two colors: white and black.

Each model also exists with an additional studded strip.

I find the risers very successful:

Code name: SL01H. Definitely the new basic of the brand.

For what ? Because for me it is a perfect mix:

• neither too thick nor too thin,

• neither too refined nor too busy,

• beautiful cut with a minimum of structure, getting to the point.

Pretty cool.

Purists will surely have noticed a slight resemblance with the Dior Homme sneakers from the “Strip” collection 😉

Dior Homme sneakers, SS 2004 collection (note the stacking of the jeans)

You will have noticed that sufficiently long jeans are necessary if you want to wear this type of sneakers, whether by tucking in the jeans or putting them down: you need stacking! Of course, the jeans must be tight enough at the ankle so as not to give the impression of swallowing up the sneakers.

7. Prices

Luxury brand obliges, it's very expensive. We are generally at the same prices as other competing brands:

- From 2700 to 3500 euros for leathers

- From 1400 to 1700 euros for jackets/blazers

- Around 1000 euros for jackets, peacoats

- Between 300 and 400 euros for a shirt

- Around 500 euros for mesh

- Between 300 and 500 euros for jeans/trousers

- From 390 to 480 euros for sneakers, and often more expensive for shoes

In short: regulars of hdg brands will not be surprised, the others will run away.

Are they worth it? What's the point of putting so much money into clothes?

As you know, it's not the type of BonneGueule to recommend brands in this price range, because being a bit of a connoisseur there's no point spending so much to be well dressed, with well-cut and good quality clothes. (we think of Melinda Gloss, eclectic, Renhsen, etc.).

For me, the interest in purchasing a high-end piece is justified if:

• the piece has real added value and if you have a real crush,

• you know what you are doing (what to wear it with, how to adjust it),

• you don't deprive yourself of things that would be a priority (if you have a budget of €500 for the season and you don't have a winter coat, you might as well invest in that rather than in the latest pair of Lanvin sneakers, too beautiful as they are).

If these conditions are not met, I recommend that you save your money ( note from Geoffrey: or go on vacation! ).

And if you really want to invest in Saint Laurent or other similar brands without breaking the bank, there are always ways to get good deals in the classified ads section of the forum. By being patient, you can really find everything for a price much lower than the store and in generally very good condition.

Conclusion

In the end, this first collection left me with a good overall impression.

Is it revolutionary? Of course not.

But it is a good start, clean, coherent, which simply lays the foundations well and which allows us to hope for great things later.

I don't understand those who expected an upheaval from the start: it was obvious that this was not going to be the case.

To make a video game comparison, some were expecting a God of War with the apocalypse on the screen from the first minutes of play. In fact, we are more facing a Metal Gear Solid: it starts slowly but every detail is there, we know that it will take off but not when exactly. Of course we are always afraid of being disappointed, but whatever happens we remain confident because we know that the creator knows what he is doing, even if it sometimes goes a little wrong when he has taken too much coke .

So I think we can trust Hedi Slimane and be reassured for the future. Call me a fanboy all you want but Dior Homme (like Metal Gear Solid) has been copied many times and yet never equaled.

Remember the good old days... (note from Benoit: this video should be seen by everyone, as it summarizes Slimane's influence in a simple way)

Nicholas

Benoit's opinion

The first thing that strikes me upon entering the store is this omnipresence of white and black. Perlin, the store manager, warned me: given that the rue de Grenelle store is a flagship, there is a lot of work to be done on the overall visual of the point of sale, but he assured me that other colored pieces existed. And then for a first collection, he obviously had to impose his mark, even if I found that his use of black was a little too easy .

I'm approaching the jeans, we're looking at a fairly standard quality, a decent, quality selvedge canvas, but which isn't impressive either. There is a chain stitch on the bottom hem, but no selvedge ticket pocket ...

But I recognize Slimane's talent for branding his jeans in a very fair , discreet, but at the same time very recognizable way: these are the two seams above the back pockets that Nicolas presented to you. But the prices remain crazy , they should not exceed €200! It's typically a star product that all fans will rave about and on which Slimane plans to make a big profit, in my opinion.

I move on to the jackets, and surprise, they are completely canvassed! Which is very rare in PAP, even at these prices. Perlin made me try on a 48 jacket, and I was impressed by the quality of the cut .

It's very, very, very well cut . Slimane didn't cut his jackets for weaklings, far from it. The 48 is a real 48.
The shoulder line is impeccable, the armhole is high without being too much , and the bend is very well balanced. It's been a long time since I tried such a well-cut jacket, that's saying something! I clearly recognize Slimane's obsession with tailoring pieces and their cut studied to the millimeter. So much so that I predict the Saint Laurent suit will be the next iconic “high end mainstream” piece for men.

A look at the shirts, and the same observation is clear, it's way too expensive for what it is ! The quality of the mother-of-pearl on the buttons isn't great, which annoys me a little on a shirt costing over €300. At this price, we're starting to get some very interesting tailor-made things... And above all, I was expecting denser stitching, especially on the collar, but the quality is top-of-the-range, nothing more. The Comédie Humaine shirts are better finished as an example. But I think this is clearly the kind of piece where Saint Laurent has to lean the most...

The leathers are magnificent , the lambskin is one of the most beautiful I have seen in a long time, and the design is very, very fair. Slimane had already made the leather jacket a classic at Dior Homme, he will undoubtedly do the same thing at Saint Laurent. Indisputably. We are on classic prices for such a brand in the sector.

I take a look at the sneakers, which are nice, but still very expensive, although the leather has a very fine grain. Having discussed it with a designer who also produces high-end sneakers and who had bought a pair to dissect (no, they are not the creators of National Standard ), the assembly and materials are really nothing to write home about. exceptional. Another high margin play. But here too, I recognize Slimane's talent for producing universal and timeless designs.

The rest of the shoes also leave me with this impression, they're pretty, well-made, but I've seen brands with equivalent quality for much less money.

I end up with leather goods, knowing that big brands of this type make a lot of money on accessories. Everything is very simple, but compared to a Bleu de Chaude, Heschung, ndc or even Filson bag, there is nothing impressive.

Conclusion

This collection fulfills its role perfectly: to impose and be a showcase of Slimane's know-how while being a powerful marketing lever for Saint Laurent , with pieces destined to become cult (the sneakers have already appeared in a music video by rapper Kenrick Lamar and the Saint Laurent tuxedo was worn several times during the Oscars).

But the fact remains that after having worked with a number of talented and high-quality designers, I have this unpleasant feeling of paying for a marketing campaign and a beautiful flagship store rather than the true quality of the product by purchasing a Saint Laurent shirt.