I confess to you, I never thought I would write a file concerning Viscount A. on BonneGueule .
And even less interview its leader Arthur de Soultrait (besides, read the list of his ancestor's publications , it's worth the detour. Georges de Soultrait was definitely someone who liked to write cutting-edge and unique content)!
Portrait of Arthur de Soultrait, in his favorite dandy style and with his faithful companion with his enamored gaze.
My meeting with Arthur de Soultrait
My meeting with Arthur therefore goes back to Marchand Drapier ; in a small Florentine restaurant.
I was surprised by Arthur, because he has a real taste for small brands and likes meeting young creators. Moreover, it is amusing to note that most of the creators we talk about on BonneGueule have already spoken several times with him, the latter being visibly very curious and attentive to their work (beyond his media image, it is someone with a lot of listening and kindness).
He asked me very frankly what I thought of his brand that evening , being very attentive to the feedback he can get from people “in the industry”.
For me, the answer was clear: I didn't recognize myself at all in this brand, both in its values (which I thought I knew), and in its products (which I thought I knew again). My arguments were simple: the very colorful preppy/preppy side, the name of the brand, its communication campaigns focused on rallies or polo tournaments; In short, nothing spoke to me.
Interior of a Vicomte Arthur boutique: an omnipresent color, highlighted with the white walls and a slightly offbeat universe with its stuffed animals.
Except that when you make a mistake, you have to know how to recognize it. And I admit, I was a little easy to prejudge regarding Viscount A .. But before explaining to you, we're going to start everything from scratch...
I'll let you first watch this interview where Arthur talks about his journey, before tackling the product testing part.
You will learn that the start was not easy, that he is lucid about his mistakes and that he is still very aware of areas for improvement.
Who is Arthur de Soultrait, founder of Vicomte A.?
The fact remains that entrepreneurial success is undeniable , because it is proof that a clothing brand in France can develop over several years while remaining independent. We must then give back to Caesar what is Caesar's: who, among us, can boast of having wanted to set up a company at the age of 21 , and of having cut his teeth going door to door? We can't blame him for his entrepreneurial energy.
For him, it all started around ten years ago, in the United States, more precisely in North Carolina. At the time, he was an intern as part of his higher studies, within a company which, unfortunately, went bankrupt. From then on, his parents encouraged him to strike out on his own: he then decided to go door to door, in order to sell his own ties (I was surprised to discover that Gilles Masson gave him a little trick hand at the very beginning of the beginning).
His will and his French style immediately seduce his interlocutors, and he is quickly encouraged to launch his own business. Finally, following a large order, Arthur builds up capital that will allow him to create his company for good.
The history of the brand name is a bit unusual. It was one of his American friends who pushed him to use his title of nobility as the name of his brand. This American mentor, the mischievous Jay Myers, played a big role in the birth of the brand. Arthur will be eternally grateful to him , to the point of interviewing him on video (really watch it, it's nice to see the energy of such a character). You will discover that the name of the brand, which one might think pompous, is in fact a completely different (and beautiful) message.
Arthur happily plays with classic codes, and dresses up George de Soultrait.
Vicomte A.: from polo to range expansion (shirts, chinos, cardigans)
In 2005 (10 years ago!), the ready-to-wear brand “Vicomte A. Paris-Palm-Beach” was created in Florida, then on Long Island. The brand subsequently exported to France and opened its first point of sale on the right bank of Paris.
Today, it has nearly 350 points of sale around the world, in famous "show-off" cities: Deauville, Palm Beach, Saint-Tropez... While it is undeniable that these are points of sale rather prestigious , it was, in my opinion, also a weakness for Vicomte A, because it polarized the image of a brand that could be a little too elitist, especially in the face of a French public who hates everything that has a connotation " flashy.”
However, success was immediately achieved: and almost 10 years later, the 2013 turnover reached 17.5 million euros, an impressive development in such a short time and very rare in French men’s ready-to-wear!
Initially, the product offering consisted exclusively of two-tone men's polo shirts , which divided the crowds (I don't like polo shirts in the first place, it's the kind of product that doesn't speak to me).
The famous two-tone polo shirts from Vicomte A... This is concretely what doesn't speak to me (and my first contact with the brand a few years ago).
With an “affordable high-end” price positioning, Arthur then expanded its range to chinos, cardigans, sweaters and especially shirts. At that time, the brand was aimed exclusively at men (the Women's collection was only launched during the Fall/Winter 2013 Collection). The clothes are decorated with strong and bright colors (in fact, fuchsia is Arthur's favorite color). If the use of very bright colors became the signature of the brand, it is also the element which was the most criticized at Vicomte A, because it was the most recognizable .
Don't forget, after years where the expression "bling bling" has been used in every way, the French customer wants discretion. I am opening a parenthesis, but it is something that I deplore so much, if only for the many flamboyant possibilities that I saw at Pitti last January .
That said, there is one aspect that the brand has not communicated enough in my opinion, and that is the desire to provide quality at an affordable price. In fact, I had to go and interview Arthur to learn that he used pima cotton for polo shirts (made in Lima, Peru) or Albini and Thomas Mason fabrics . I didn't know that at all before. And as we will see in a moment, another move upmarket in materials is taking place behind the scenes...
My opinion on the style of the Vicomte A brand.
Vicomte A’s target, basically, is young people from good families, between 25 and 35 years old. Indeed, its communication highlights a somewhat elitist youth, with a dandy/preppy style , but a little "rebellious in attitude", slightly irreverent. But as you can imagine, the majority of French customers have a horror of anything that has anything to do with "good family" codes. Another element which, in my opinion, has caused a certain unwanted divide in the brand, and which Arthur wants to change.
However, the truth is elsewhere, and I had misunderstood the brand's communication. If we can indeed see a good family aspect, the values that Arthur wanted to express are rather audacity, freedom, and above all a certain humor in putting oneself on stage in unusual situations, such as the motocross campaign , the impressive outline of Simon Beck , or even that of the breakdancer dancing at the Louvre .
Certain atmospheres are even unexpected at Vicomte A, like this video in large wild spaces where the decor is very bare (nature, and nothing else!), but where the music and the models remind us that the brand does not is not here to take itself seriously .
The illustration of the offbeat side that Vicomte A. wants to bring to his shootings.
It is thus similar to brands like Ralph Lauren or Tommy Hilfiger, in its advertising campaigns, but more refreshing.
Now let's see the clothes in detail. As I said, I had quite a few prejudices about the Vicomte A collections: too many flashy colors or too many logos for example. So it was with a lot of curiosity (and, let's face it, a hint of disdain) that I put on a Vicomte A blazer and pants.
Test of the Vicomte A. blazer in navy blue flannel
Note the pointed design of the pocket, rather original.
I'm not a fan of the white Alcantara inserts, a little too obvious. As a reminder, Alcantara is a fabric that has a very soft feel, almost like velvet.
Let's first look at the positioning of the jacket. On the e-shop, the 100% wool version costs €325.
Important: mine was a little cheaper (under €300 I think), but it has an 80% wool and 20% polyamide blend. Visually, the mixture is totally illusionary and imitates a pretty flannel at an obviously more accessible price. The 20% polyamide is in too small a proportion to have the disadvantages: the material remains silky and takes the light well . In addition, it does not particularly make you sweat.
The elbow pads are 100% wool. Even if this style doesn't mean much to me, it's a characteristic element of preppy clothing.
At this price, no surprises, we are on a heat-sealed one (it seems impossible to offer semi-traditional below €300, I have never seen one), but it is of good quality. Vicomte A must absolutely maintain this quality in this price bracket, and above all not go below because for a few dozen euros more, you can already start to find semi-canvass from other brands.
Yes, the buttonholes are open, a good point!
That said, there are some high-end details that are really welcome for this price: the buttonholes on the sleeves are open , there is a generous facing, and all the visible fabric edges are well bound (this requires more work than installing a normal lining). I have to face the facts: the price, based on what I have seen, is correct .
The facing (= the section of fabric where the interior pockets are sewn which goes up to the armpits), the butterfly half lining, and the taped seams are high-end finishes.
Once tried on, it's the big surprise: this jacket is perfectly cut! The fit is perfect, and my astonishment comes from the cut of the back, which is simply impeccable .
Arthur hadn't lied to me when he told me he paid the greatest attention to the cut of his clothes and it's very difficult for me to find fault in that regard. It's actually one of the jackets that suits me best in my wardrobe, I never thought I'd say that about a Vicomte A item of clothing.
Honorable amends from me once again!
The middle is clean and without creases, and the bending is well done: I approve of the cut! (guest star, our BonneGueule Kurabo jeans which fade day after day)!
Few things to complain about in terms of the cut of the back... The arch is clearly emphasized.
Now let's talk about the design: it is at the same time the strength and the weakness of the piece .
There is a real preppy side that doesn't speak to me (see the alcantara inserts), being used to the sobriety of a Husbands jacket, or the more creative side of a Marchand Drapier jacket. But it's a matter of personal taste.
We are working on a particular design, which you could find at Hackett, if you like this kind of universe. That said, Vicomte A. seems determined to explore more refined avenues, as we will see in a moment...
Test of Vicomte A pants.
Hèdus jacket, Outlier shirt, Lanvin sneakers, and sunglasses to make Geoffrey moan (he condemns the use of sunglasses in photoshoots while I encourage him!).
After the pleasant surprise of the cut of the jacket, it was with a fresh perspective that I put on these chinos, leaving my prejudices aside. The good impression is confirmed, the cut is very neat (especially at the buttocks in my case) and I am pleasantly surprised by the finishes.
This is an English with a breakpoint.
The design of the back pockets is rather original and the logo is very discreet (a good thing!).
For now, if I was less convinced by the design of the blazer despite the cut and the pretty material, we are here faced with a good product on all fronts, with a very reasonable price (less than 120 euros for a chino) . The material is cotton with 1% elastane which gives it a comfortable stretch feel.
Finally, the finishes are really neat : braided seams, work on the design of the pocket, open loop with stopping point at the bottom of the back, fastening with two buttons and this pretty blue finish at the belt level (this is not is not quite a braid). It's impossible to fault these chinos.
The seams are taped, a detail that I really appreciate.
The finish where the edge of the belt is in blue is clearly visible here. Also note the lovely strip of lightly textured fabric all around.
There is therefore not much to criticize about this piece because whether it is the price, the design or the cut, everything is satisfactory. A nice surprise!
The renewal of the brand with Taïga Nomura
The brand did not cease to amaze me, however, because while going to Pitti last January, Arthur made a point of introducing me to its new artistic director (= the person who designs the clothes!), the Japanese Taïga Nomura.
After having cut his teeth in the knitwear section (= knitted clothing) of a luxury French house (hint: it is one of the most expensive French ready-to-wear brands), it is now he who is in charge of the collections from winter 2015/2016.
It is therefore not him who put together the summer collection which is arriving in stores, so we will have to wait a little before seeing his work in stores (after the 2015 summer sales)!
Yes, that's Viscount A... Everything is more refined and elegant. The outfit could easily have been in a high-end designer's lookbook.
And the least we can say is that its “luxury house” influence has been good for the brand. It has moved away from very... first degree preppy designs, shall we say, to purify itself and slowly move closer to designs like Gant Rugger .
Japanese influence obliges, I appreciated seeing some selvedge edging on the pockets or collars of certain shirts.
Obviously, Taïga wants to put a “quality” stamp on its work. I even seem to have seen some technical materials. The knits were also promising and Taïga, given the brand's accessibility constraints, is doing very well.
There is certainly an 80% wool and synthetic blend, but I saw 100% wool and very nice chunky knits, consistent with the brand's mid-range positioning.
Also, he made the logo more discreet, which was a real necessity in my opinion for Vicomte A.'s brand image to move upmarket .
The patterned shirt is nicely framed by the neutral tones of the jacket and tie. And the ostentatious pocket inserts have completely disappeared! We are facing a much more high-end silhouette in terms of design.
Vicomte A.: a brand for whom?
Vicomte A, contrary to what I believed, is not just a brand of polo shirts. Obviously, they are still present on the site (a brand cannot suddenly cut itself off from its historical clientele), in colors and sizes of logos that I would not wear, and it would be very difficult to give them to you. advisor on BonneGueule.
But little by little, the pieces change .
The brand seems well on its way to successfully transforming itself. If the quality, considering the price, was satisfactory (once again, I make amends), the overall design still had a lot of room for improvement, and Taïga seems very promising in this regard.
In next winter's collection, there are several pieces that I could easily see myself wearing. The shift began this winter with a parka that beautifully interpreted a vintage design .
So, ultimately, who is the brand aimed at? It reminds me, in terms of universe, of a French Ralph Lauren. All those who are attracted by the colorful preppy style at an affordable price should at least take a trip to a Vicomte A boutique, because I was surprised by the care taken in the cuts and certain materials (there is Albini or Thomas Mason on shirts for example).
We clearly recognize the preppy style here, even under a giraffe.
There are always elements of the brand that leave me unmoved (the "people" side of the brand, this world of high-end sports, etc.) but as an insatiable curiosity about men's fashion, it It would be a shame if I stopped at that.
I also advise you to follow the evolution of Vicomte A., because it is often a fascinating subject to see a brand evolve and mature in the face of image issues (I plan to write an article on this subject soon ).
The final word
Last thing, I would like to end this article on a slightly more personal note: it is easy in my position as a lover of minimalist lookbooks to say that the brand is not enough of this or that, that the brand image plays a role too much on the polo shirt, but there is a moment where we have to respect one thing, which is that the personality of the brand is ultimately totally consistent with Arthur, and he is not trying to hide anything.
Since he loves polo, it's completely normal for him to use the codes of this universe, why stop him? While my job consists of telling men to take responsibility for themselves, to be proud of their image and to finally wear what they please, far from the shackles of others' judgments, why advise Arthur to do the opposite?
Arthur and one of his models during an advertising campaign shoot: in casual mode, you see!
As Jay Myers said in the video, the fashion world is full of people who invent an identity for themselves, or who try to be someone else.
Arthur, when he likes motocross, he decides to make a video of it with his clothes, which will be happily soiled. The same goes for skiing . It's difficult to be more spontaneous, and many other brands would benefit from being more relaxed in this way.
This is perhaps the most paradoxical thing about Vicomte A.: while it has an elitist image, it is a brand with much more playful and sincere communication than the others.
