A little history
It all starts at the beginning of the 20th century. Blue Bell, the company that owned Wrangler at that time, manufactured workwear , that is to say work clothing, suitable for railway workers. Blue Bell then decided to launch a denim brand specifically dedicated to cowboys, hence the name Wrangler: the term for a cowherd boy.
The goal is simple: to offer cowboys sturdy jeans, comfortable to wear, suitable for riding. Moreover, if you look closely on the patch, the logo is represented with a rope: the same rope that cowboys use to make a lasso. A precursor of jeans in 1904, Wrangler has never lost its reputation and continues to offer quality models, even if we find good and bad among them.
What is a cowboy?
Today, a cowboy is often depicted as a tough guy who only fights with the Daltons or the Indians. Before that, a cowboy was a cowherd boy (literal translation), that is to say a man who takes care of cattle: in short, a farmer!
Before the Gold Rush, the virtual absence of railroads forced cowboys to herd cattle into the great outdoors on horseback. And if some think that the cowherd is solitary, courageous, sometimes nomadic, this is still an image that is far from reality.
What is transhumance ?
“Oh Jack, you smell so good.”
No, it's not an illness. Transhumance is the migration of a cattle herd (or other) from the plain to the mountains so that they can feed and roam in the fresh air. To orchestrate this, you need at least one cowboy, sometimes two.
Outside of this period, the cowboy does not work and therefore lives precariously (perhaps the reason why Ennis and Jack ended up cuddling).
It's a difficult, dangerous job and viewed in a negative light. These people are often marginalized and there are few volunteers to practice the profession. Contrary to popular belief, most cowherds are not like the great bearded white: they are often men from the last waves of slavery who agree to work for cattle farmers.
At the end of the 19th century, the cowboy gradually became mystified and glorified. It all began when the New York Weekly told the stories of Buffalo Bill, a courageous, free and virile man. Americans then became fond of these little tales and quickly identified with him.
Following this popularization, the cowboy became a national identity that we wanted to showcase, which gave birth to the rodeo and demonstrations of skill on horseback (the round-up).
The cowboy we know today was born, and so was the Buffalo Grill...
And Wrangler in all this?
Wrangler comes from this West American culture (and this popularization). When you wear a Wrangler, you feel like a country singer (maybe a little Chuck Norris too)! The brand sponsors rodeos and then becomes the clothing reference for cowboys.
Wrangler highlights 7 details specific to the brand, supposed to represent the cowboy attitude and make the jeans more solid and practical. We have reviewed and verified the usefulness of these 7 details. Marketing or reality?
1st detail - Flat rivets
Flat rivets are intended not to damage saddles and other cowboy equipment. Today, of course, the concept has remained so as not to damage motorcycles and car seats.
I validate this point. I, who sometimes lean against cars, have already had this bad experience of scratching a paintwork with nipple rivets. Do the test on Dad's car or your boss's car, it's foolproof (no, actually, don't do it!).
With a Wrangler, you can show off like Shia.
2nd detail - The 5th pocket
Here, the Wrangler's 5th pocket is larger than on standard jeans.
On your jeans, the 5th pocket under the belt on the right side is commonly called “the pocket that is useless”. It is, basically, designed to slide in a pocket watch. Today we wear it on the wrist, so logically it is no longer necessary, or almost...
In fact, it has the exact dimensions of a Zippo brand lighter. If you don't smoke, it will still be used to store your Zippo to set fire to corpses taken out of Cadillac trunks. More seriously, other than this item, it is far too small to hold anything except a few coins.
The Wrangler's 5th pocket is deliberately larger to make it more useful. Let's check:
A standard set of keys.
When I Was 17 leather rope.
The keys fit in the pocket with a little force. The 5th pocket is very tight, so the keys are pressed against the body, which is not pleasant at all.
It is therefore not very effective. We will definitely reserve it for coins or something to sleep in after a drunken evening (it's important to go out covered ;))
3rd detail - Flap seams
We can clearly see the flap in the center of the image.
These seams are on all your jeans, Wrangler didn't invent anything. On the other hand, the brand has improved this technique. The back seam flaps fall towards the pockets, unlike common jeans. According to the brand, this helps keep the wallet in place. Between us, my trusty Uniqlo jeans - without the flap falling towards the pockets - do the job just as well.
As for the thigh flaps, they are sewn outwards. Once again to improve the comfort of riding. According to a rebel biker friend who wears Wrangler, he "likes the brand, but doesn't see any change compared to jeans with mid-weight canvas."
4th detail - The 7 passers-by
Two additional loops are sewn at the back.
The Wrangler Argument “ If you've ever worn jeans with five loops, you know that jeans consistently slip off the waist. When we go to six, it's already a little better. But slip a Wrangler leather belt through seven loops, and you'll see, the jeans are sealed to your body . »
It's certain that with 7 passers-by, you are better supported, especially if you are rodeoing. But living in the city, all my jeans with 5 loops also do the job well, although it is true that the belt goes over the jeans when I bend over. With the 7 loops, you won't have to pull up your jeans. As for "the Wrangler leather belt", you will have understood, it works with any brand of belt.
Note from Florian: I've had Wrangler jeans for a few months now and I have the same impression as Luca.
5th detail - The stitching of the pockets
The W-shaped stitching on the rear pockets is Wrangler's most visible trademark. The brand assures that this strengthens the pocket and I confirm it, it is not a luxury if you slip your wallet in there every day.
The last two details are the leather patch and the logo with the W-shaped lasso. Not really useful, but it's thanks to them that we recognize a Wrangler...
Test - The semi-slim Spencer Broken Twill (85 euros)
A simple and effective outfit, made up of the essentials of the men's wardrobe.
What is Broken Twill?
When you buy a Wrangler, this term often comes up on the label, accompanied by these few words: " Wrangler's signature broken twill provides a softer handfeel seams that don't twist, high resistance to tearing and unique surface design" .
Translation: " Wrangler's Broken Twill offers a softer-to-the-touch weave that does not twist, high tear resistance and a unique design ."
On common jeans, the fabrics are most often right-handed, that is to say that the diagonal of fabric rises from left to right. This technique is called “ Right hand twill ”. For a refresher, see “how the fabric of jeans is woven” .
Jean BGR-01 right hand twill,
(seen from above, the diagonal goes to the right, and to the left when seen from below).
You can also cross jeans, like at Lee, with a left-handed fabric called left hand twill . You will have understood, the principle is the same but in the other direction. Advantage, according to the brands that use it: it would make the canvas stronger and softer to the touch. The wash will also be different on this canvas. In fact, no big difference.
Broken twill is in fact a mix of these two techniques. The canvas is dotted with zigzags: it is also called chevron weaving. The advantage, according to Wrangler who invented it in 1964, is to prevent the canvas from twisting and to make it softer to the touch. The principle is that jeans should not move around your thigh during your daily movements.
Wrangler Broken Twill Jeans.
I'll admit, I've never felt a twist on my jeans, so I won't be able to tell you that it's effective. My biker friend tells me that his denims twist when he rides and that this effect is clearly reduced thanks to the Broken Twill. So let’s take his word for it!
For the rest, it is very comfortable, the canvas is rather flexible but remains solid. Its cut has nothing to do with the beginnings of Wrangler, it is rather elegant and easily adapts to an urban outfit.
Lower pockets: another Wrangler feature.
The low pockets give a looser look, I find that a shame on such well structured jeans, the elegance is broken.
On the other hand, there are nice little details: the chain stitch seams on the belt and the back pockets (which demonstrate the solidity of the jeans for purists) but which are not found on the hems.
The back pockets are not lined.
As for the seams, they remain correct. We can see that these are not high-end jeans but for their price, they hold up very well.
The seams remain clean.
We can see the stopping points which testify to the solidity of the jeans.
A flap seam for the outside of the thigh.
Quality jeans must have double stitching. But it's just a detail. The flap seam is still clean.
Overall, I am very happy with these jeans. It does not deform, remains elegant and structured despite the lightness of its canvas. It is best worn in summer.
A success for Wrangler which adapts its utility jeans to the city.
Test - Evan selvedge straight cut jeans (120 euros)
All I'm missing is my pickaxe.
These jeans reflect Wrangler's roots: they are sturdy, with a straight cut. It's not really aesthetically pleasing (not at all) but it exudes the Wild West.
The Ivan model is reminiscent of jeans from the 50s, and Wrangler deliberately wanted to convey this ultra-vintage side. In the photo above, the straight cut / high waist effect has been camouflaged to give more modernity to the style. In fact, it is very difficult to wear these days.
Note from Geoffrey: I would say less than Luca about the cut of the jeans. It's properly portable but you have to see it as a strong piece. Typically, these are the kind of straight jeans that should be worn rolled up with a well-fitted top in summer, or integrated into a purely workwear look in winter, so as to justify the loose appearance. Another detail: yes, it tightens the silhouette... so reserve it for adults!
What do you think of these jeans?
I admit that I would have preferred a selvedge with the same cut as the Spencer. These jeans are really intended for purists, lovers of the Wild West.
The high waist is no longer relevant, we realize that this cut comes from the 50's and has nothing to do in 2013. Look for yourself:
Your bust no longer exists when you wear this type of jeans.
Note from Geoffrey: in fact, you will wear the t-shirt over the jeans :)
As for the canvas, it is really very beautiful, of good quality.
The green edging, also representative of the brand.
This jean, unlike the previous one, has a double stitching on the outside of the thigh. The color of the border depends on the manufacturers. The best known is red (Levi's, Naked and Famous, etc.), you can also find yellow, blue and finally green for Wrangler.
You can also notice that it is not a broken twill but a right hand twill .
Concerning the finishes, it is impeccable. The stopping points are well marked, the zipper is sewn securely using double stitching.
On the closure, nothing to say, it's solid.
The lightest canvas is Evan selvedge, the second is Spencer.
Pictured above, the Evan selvedge has double bar tacks on the pockets which you can see on the top and side of the rivet. The Spencer only has one. There is therefore a difference in quality between the two jeans (a difference in price as well).
The small downsides regarding the manufacturing quality
Buttonholes
The reinforcements are drooling a little.
But it's just a detail, a snip of the scissors and it's done!
The lining of the back pockets
The lining is not there but the seams of the reinforcement flaps are chain stitched.
To summarize, these jeans are a real quality selvedge, but the cut has a very particular bias, which is a shame if it's an easy jean you're looking for. Certainly, the farmer look will follow you if you wear these jeans. I therefore recommend this piece to purists who want to venture into the glory days of workwear.
So stick to pieces that are easy to wear, no need to play cowboy when you're not one. Wrangler also carries a lot of faded, ripped jeans, which I urge you to avoid. Remember: it's your role to wear out your raw denim, not a machine or chemicals. As Brandon from Naked And Famous would say, "Buying a pair of faded jeans is like buying a car with scratches or an apple that's already been bitten into."
That said, the range is very wide at Wrangler. And you'll also find easy cuts in beautiful canvases if you do a little sorting. So type directly into the mid-range and high-end with them. If you do your selection work, you won't regret it.
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Note from Geoffrey: Thanks to Anne-Laure (Wrangler) for her welcome, and allowing us to test the products.
