After writing the Garçonne & Chérubin derby review , I felt ready to continue my momentum, and help you (re)discover this brand of old school shoes.
The opportunity presented itself with Sebago, and I therefore naturally suggested that Luca write this article. And then, having grown up in Versailles, I am no stranger to moccasins! 😉
I really hope you learn as much about this iconic brand as I did...
History of the American shoe brand Sebago
The origins of the Sebago brand
The story of Sebago begins with three friends in January 1946, in North America. One of them runs a shoe business in Maine, and one day decides to join forces with his two businessman friends to create a shoe factory . Joseph Cordeau, William Beaudoin and Daniel Wellehan thus founded the “ Sebago-Moc Company” .
They have one big thing in common: they are all natives of New England! This region is located in the far northeast of the United States, and made up of six different states (including Maine, which borders Canada).
Typical landscape of the Maine region (town of Rockport)
Watercourses are omnipresent in this area; it is therefore an integral part of the culture of the inhabitants : water activities and sports, relaxation by the lake... This dimension is dear to the hearts of the founders (and still is today for its inhabitants).
This is completely part of the brand's DNA. Indeed, “Sebago” is the name of a lake in Maine , so the founders deliberately chose it for that reason.
Another anecdote on this subject: “ Sebago ” can be translated as “ large body of water ”, according to the dialect of a local tribe of Amerindians (called the Abenakis ).
And here is the "Sebago lake" with its boats...
The product: the Sebago shoe
Native American inspirations
These Indians still live in Maine, although they represent an ethnic minority limited to a few reservations. They are also the ones who created the first pair of Sebago shoes: penny loafers. These are moccasins, inspired by those worn by these natives.
Indeed, as you now know thanks to the moccasin guide , it is the oldest shoe in the history of humanity. Indian moccasins were very successful in the 1940s.
Here is a real Native American moccasin for walking next to the bison. It is the ancestor of the modern moccasin: penny loafers.
The concept of Sebago shoes
The idea was simple: to offer quality, comfortable and practical moccasins , all combining a certain elegance with sporting influences . Another essential criterion for these shoes: water resistance . In fact, the creators' target was primarily locals, i.e. water sports enthusiasts, sailors, fishermen, etc.
The first shoes produced were therefore " beef roll penny loafers ": it is a soft, hand-sewn moccasin, the model that Luca details below in this article.
Here is the pair of penny loafers tested by Luca!
History of the Sebago company
Initially, the products were sold exclusively in the United States . Their fame does not extend beyond their borders. It was not until the 1960s that this changed.
In 1964, in Switzerland, a certain Sir Francisco Gaudier bought a pair of Sebago classic penny loafers. Amazed by the quality of the products, this businessman decided to go and see with his own eyes the Sebago factories in Maine, in the USA (he didn't do things by halves).
Seduced by his visit and impressed by the quality of the products, he then began to sell the shoes through his company throughout Europe. Once launched on the market, these shoes quickly became a big commercial success for all vacationers in the South of France.
The Sebago Docksides always appeal to fans of the preppy style.
It was in 1970 that “Sebago-Moc” launched its iconic model: the “ Docksides ” boat shoe. The success was immediate, and such that they now define the entire category of boat shoes of the brand. The "Ivy League" style being very fashionable at that time , American university students quickly adopted it, which made these shoes a must-have for the preppy generation of the 70's .
In 1971, Sebago launched machine-sewn casual shoes, this time: “Jesse Janes”. The same year, the creators removed the “Moc” and “Company” from the company name, so it would simply be “Sebago” (more impactful, right?).
In the 1980s, the brand became the official supplier of yachting shoes for the American sailing team. This visibility allows him to make himself known to as many people as possible.
A vintage advertisement for Docksides.
In the following years, Sebago sponsored sporting events : mainly nautical races (America's Cup, Young America, Celebrity Regatta and the Newport Bermuda Race). At the same time, Sebago offers completely waterproof shoes: “ Drysides ”.
The Sebago shoe brand today
Today, Sebago has developed well. It is currently distributed in 120 countries around the world . If their shoes are adored by water sports enthusiasts for their quality, some also criticize it for a slightly outdated design.
Modernized collaborations and branding
In order to appeal to new generations, the cult shoe brand has sought to establish new partnerships . It was a necessity for her, because for many young men, it was a brand only for older men.
At the end of 2011, Sebago launched a collaboration with Filson. As an outdoor equipment manufacturer, the combination of these two was very coherent!
Discover the Sebago x Filson collaboration in pictures:
The brand has also developed exclusive models of multicolored Docksides with the Parisian concept store Colette . A special collection for women was also created on this occasion. Five influential women have created limited editions: the collection is called "Six Degrees" (in reference to the idea that every person on Earth is connected via six interactions... And that 5 women + 1 brand = 6!).
Here is the girls band “Six Degrees” formed by the five creators.
Sebago has also designed limited edition models with VANE . This is a pretty hyped New York design collective in New York . They even created an exclusive pop-up store in NYC , dedicated to this collection!
Here are the “Future Heritage” models from the Sebago x Vane collaboration. The design is very confusing due to the use of shiny materials.
Finally, sneakerheads need to know about Ronnie Fieg . This designer / blogger / sneaker addict also did a collaboration with Sebago. He was interviewed on this subject, at the Sebago factory located in the Dominican Republic .
Models of moccasins and shoes from the Sebago brand
Docksides (boat shoes)
Sebago's flagship model is the famous Docksides ! These are the real “boat shoes”. Marine par excellence, they have been hand-sewn since their design in 1970 . Their creation is the result of a real demand from sailing customers or enthusiasts of nautical activities.
The iconic Docksides! It truly is THE boat shoe par excellence.
Soft, comfortable and resistant , here are the main characteristics:
- Structure of a real moccasin, constructed from a single piece of hand-sewn leather,
- Upper (exterior of the shoe) in full grain leather, nubuck or suede ,
- Non-slip rubber soles,
- Leather laces,
- Anti-corrosion brass eyelets,
- Leather insole
- Outsole suitable for boating, with non-slip rubber.
The Spinnakers (the same, colored version)
Following the success of the Docksides , the brand wanted to offer them in a more colorful version . This is how the Spinnakers were born. For your personal knowledge and nautical fans: a "spinnaker" is "a type of sail hoisted at the front of a sailboat when the wind blows from the rear of the ship" ( thanks my friend Wikipedia ).
The upper always comes in two or three colors , and the finishes are the same as those listed above for the Docksides .
A Spinnaker model.
Classic penny loafers (moccasins)
Penny loafers are therefore the first shoes developed by Sebago. They are mounted without any guide holes for shoemakers, who are therefore real experts.
Their structure has been patented " Welt Construction " (it is actually Goodyear welted). Their design has remained unchanged for over 70 years!
President John F. Kennedy and James Dean popularized these loafers by wearing them in a casual context (by the sea), all without socks (quite rare at the time).
In 1963, President John F. Kennedy was already sporting a pretty pair of penny loafers. (Credits: Corbis).
The steps in making Sebago penny loafers
There are different stages in making moccasins:
- Cutting: after choosing the leather to use, the shape of the shoe is cut out of the material (the craftsmen only use the best parts of the skin),
- Hand-stitched: The artisans then use an awl, which allows them to punch holes by hand in the leather upper. Next, you have to sew the upper with nylon thread. The front is shaped like a tube, this is what we call the “beef roll”.
- The sole: it is assembled to the upper using a welt (Goodyear sewn). It is a strip of leather placed all around the sole, sewn to the upper then to the leather sole. Thanks to it, the bottom of the shoe is reinforced and more solid.
The Sebago penny loafers test (by Luca)
I chose to test the “pronounced roll” penny loafers . And I have I was the first to be surprised (from the first wear), because I didn't expect to be so comfortable in moccasins!
This model ( Grant reference, Cordo color ) is very well designed:
• Entirely sewn by hand,
• Unlined upper in tanned calfskin
• Leather insole
• Thermoplastic rubber outsole (registered: “Sebago Maine Street”)
Quite frankly, it's not the piece I like the most, but I was looking for a good alternative to my derbies for the summer, so I gave it a try.
Wearing moccasins: with or without socks?
I've been wearing them for over a month now, and from the start, the moccasins have been very comfortable. My big question before the first wear was: invisible socks or no socks ?
So I tried both to compare, because Sebago are, basically, shoes that are worn for boat trips (thus potentially getting your feet wet, which doesn't go well with socks).
As usual, I had the same feeling of discomfort: without socks your feet swell quite quickly; and I'm not talking to you about the end of the day and what you do to those around you by taking off your shoes. I must still point out that they are more airy than most of the moccasins I have worn.
With invisible socks, your feet will slip a little in the moccasin the first hour of wearing them, but you will see that this effect fades very quickly. The difference at the end of the day is incomparable, so a tip: wear invisible socks!
The leather of Sebago penny loafers
The penny is missing, but I'm counting on you to add one.
The Sebago leather (full grain calfskin) is really comfortable and ages well . After a month of wear, it has barely moved, we still can't see any unsightly creases on the upper of the moccasin. It's really tough.
The most surprising thing is that it is waterproof. Without pity, I soaked the moccasins in water for several minutes: the leather didn't mind!
As for the inside of the shoe, a perforated comfort insole will absorb the shock of your steps; and the upturned skin underneath, your sweat.
I told you that these moccasins are comfortable, above all thanks to this finish which hugs the ankle. The leather backing is very thick, which means that it will not harm your skin or suffer for a good month.
As for the sole, it is made of thermoplastic rubber registered by the brand. Once again, it accentuates this proximity to the nautical world, by preventing you from slipping on the deck during a clumsy maneuver by Uncle Daniel.
As for the assembly, it's solid thanks to the Goodyear stitching (which we see here. The grooves allow water to evacuate as you walk, a bit like on a tire.
The design of Sebago moccasins
At first glance, I found that the design of the moccasins was a little outdated. I found the shape too square, the lines too raw and the sole too imposing, especially since its black color contrasts with the rest of the shoe.
Basically, I saw myself waiting until I was in my forties before putting them on.
Finally, once worn, moccasins fit into a good number of outfits and the "outdated" effect is less felt! I didn't imagine adopting them so quickly.
How to wear penny loafers?
Whether you wear jeans, shorts, chinos: the moccasin goes with almost everything. In the photo above, I'm wearing them with cargo pants and a dress shirt. It's a room that can be scary, but it shouldn't. Many choices are available to you!
Another example here with a simple linen shirt and gray jeans.
Luca's opinion on the Sebago penny loafers
I am very pleasantly surprised by these moccasins, both in terms of quality and comfort. I really feel like they are indestructible!
The color of the leather also changes little by little, becoming lighter in places. It truly is a product that deserves to be worn over several seasons.
As for the points of improvement: the design is a little dated, and the leather rolls are too imposing on the upper of the moccasin (which I personally find a little crude at first glance).
