Moccasins: chic sportswear shoes
The moccasin is a very light pair of shoes and totally suitable for summer use . Its history is as long as Alexander's beard, and imagine that the moccasin is even the oldest pair of shoes in the history of humanity!
Over time, its use has evolved a little. From car racing in the 1930s to Italian films from the 1950s and 1960s, the moccasin has brought a little “ sportswear chic ” touch.
This article will help you recognize a so-called “quality” moccasin ; and for this, there are several clues to know how to spot, in the materials and the manufacturing.
In line with our Bobrunel file will help us to explain to you what you should look for when you have a moccasin in your hands in the store.
You will see, she was very generous with explanations and advice, with many comparative photos!
Bobrunel, manufacturer of quality moccasins
Here is a montage of a Bobrunel moccasin, which we have dissected to show you some of the manufacturing steps. I can reassure you right away: no moccasins were injured during the photo shoot. The manufacturer has deliberately assembled parts of very different colors to clearly show you the different parts that make up a moccasin.
Clues to spotting a quality moccasin
The price range
It all starts with the price! This is an easy quality indicator to spot , but not enough to form a definitive opinion either. Let's say that the price is a quick way to get an idea of the quality of a pair of moccasins.
You can imagine that low-cost moccasins will raise many questions . And you have reason to think about the quality of materials or production, the costs of which are reduced in order to offer the cheapest possible offer.
Please note that a quality moccasin requires a little over a hundred assembly operations at the manufacturer (= assembly workshop)!
Let's say that it costs a little more than €100 for a pair of well-made moccasins (or shoes in general).
The origin of the leathers used
A pair of moccasins is, above all, leather . Quality, if possible! That's good, since the best come from France, Italy, England – and more recently – Spain and Portugal.
If the leather on your moccasins comes from one of these countries, that's a pretty good sign, but that's not everything. You can definitely find bad leathers in Italy, for example.
If you have a lot of imagination, you can see the Eiffel Tower. Otherwise, I'll give you a mnemonic to remind you of countries that are good leather producers: EI PAF (that's Chocapic). Yes, I have a lot of humor.
The quality of the materials used
The choice of leather for a moccasin
As you now know, leather comes from different animals which each have specific characteristics depending on their breed: lamb, sheep, calf, cow, goat, crocodile, python... The noblest come from the youngest animals , because the skin is more supple; but also less exposed to parasites and diseases.
For example, for shoes, cowhide leather will be preferred because it is known to be very resistant . Calfskin, for its part, is more suitable if you are looking for suppleness and softness.
As a reminder, once the skin has been taken from the animal, it must be worked to transform it from a natural raw state to a leather that can be used by the tanning operation . Once this step has been completed, different finishes are chosen: aniline finishes, semi-aniline finishes and pigmented finishes.
- Aniline finishes: highlights a leather surface by covering it with a transparent product. The desired appearance is natural and prettier, but maintenance is delicate.
- Semi-aniline finishes: covered with a layer of slightly opaque pigment and a layer of translucent product, which helps hide small defects. It is a compromise between aniline and pigmented leather.
- Pigmented leather: the leather is covered with a layer of opaque pigment. The advantage? It is easy to maintain and not very sensitive to water, but the result is a little less authentic. These leathers behave differently with a simple drop of water:
Ideally, you need aniline or semi-aniline leather , because the appearance is more natural and above all: there is better heat exchange, therefore more comfort .
This will give rise to several names of leather with different characteristics:
- Full grain leather: this is the noblest part of the leather, where the animal's hair is anchored. It is recognized by its asymmetrical and uneven markings.
- Corrected grain leather: this is leather sanded at the grain level, to correct irregularities.
- Split leather: in this leather, there is no grain, but a split that has been coated with varnish to simulate the feeling of full grain leather. It can then be transformed into suede leather.
- Nubuck leather: it is a full grain leather that has been brushed to have a slight abrasive side.
- Velvet leather: this is leather obtained by sanding on the flesh side.
Remember that a very high quality pair will focus on aniline or semi-aniline finishes with full grain leather . For the low end, it will be more pigmented finishes with split leather. Quality leather is also a pair that will last longer over time . In this regard, learn once and for all to decipher the pictograms found on the small labels stuck to the sole:
Thank the DGCCRF for this beautiful table, and even if the content is a little... dry, I strongly encourage you to take a look at the decree governing the marketing of leather articles .
The finishes to look at to determine the quality of a moccasin
To properly determine the quality of the leather in a pair of moccasins, you have to touch them! Quality suede or suede leather is easily recognized by the mark left when a finger passes over the material.
Quality smooth leather should have a flat, shiny surface that reflects light. This surface must have small roughness and imperfections which demonstrate its quality. On this pair of Tod's, this is clearly highlighted.
Concerning the wear of materials, the moccasin is known to be a sensitive product . To understand this, we have to go back to the 1930s, when the rise of the moccasin took shape, thanks to motorsport !
Yes, as surprising as it may seem, moccasins (also called “ car shoes ”) allowed racing drivers to better grip their accelerator pedals . It wasn't made for playing tennis, as you might well imagine.
When Prada and Lamborghini join forces to produce a pair of moccasins, it sparks... But it comes at a certain price.
However, the main flaw of the moccasin lies in the lifespan of its sole. And this is a point on which I questioned Bobrunel a lot in order to know (finally!) what is the lifespan of a moccasin ; because we hear just about everything and anything on this subject.
Above all, you should know that a moccasin will wear out inexorably, in all price ranges . The pins on the sole will wear out, whether it's on a 100 euro pair or a 300 euro pair.
There are no miracles in this regard, it's a bit the price to pay for having a very flexible and comfortable shoe (you can imagine that a more rigid sole would lose the "slipper" side of the moccasin) .
Moreover, the after-sales service of a major brand of moccasins (and at prices not given) does not hesitate to tell their customers to throw away the pair once the pins are used: bravo for the waste.
Wear a moccasin every day
Above all, you should know that a good use of a moccasin is one to three wears per week , and that you should avoid (as with any shoe) wearing it several days in a row. Otherwise, the moisture will not evaporate completely and it will weaken the leather. And obviously, don't walk in puddles, wear them when it rains or have fun playing soccer with them!
With two wears per week, you can expect to wear your moccasins for about two seasons (rarely less).
Theoretically, it is possible to resole the moccasin, but it is a difficult and expensive operation that the majority of shoemakers will refuse to do.
Note from Benoît : Aubercy offers a solution to the problem of wear, with the very beautiful Etretat moccasin (whose sole alone required two years of development). It's more expensive than a Tod's moccasin, but the quality is beyond measure, with the possibility of customizing it and being fitted with one of the best French shoe brands. I hope to be able to offer you a test one day! Kenzo also offers moccasins with a more durable sole , but I have no idea of the quality.
It can be kept for several seasons with careful maintenance. For the necessary products, count at least:
- A waterproofing bomb
- A suede brush or shoe polish
- Shoe trees after the rain
The benefits of wearing moccasins
But why choose a shoe whose wear is restrictive? To this question, Bobrunel is categorical. Indeed, the moccasin has incomparable advantages compared to other types of shoes:
- comfort obviously. There is an extremely appreciable flexibility and elasticity, and as soon as the lining is in quality leather, it is a real pleasure to wear; especially since the moccasin will gradually “mold” itself to your foot. In short, these are the ultimate slippers for your vacation!
- the summer side : you put them on, you're almost on vacation instantly. It's a ventilated shoe and perfectly suited when it's very hot (especially if you refuse to wear flip-flops).
- and finally, style : if you like everything "chic sportswear", with possibilities for elegant and casual summer outfits, it's hard to miss the moccasin. This is clearly a type of shoe much more suitable than ankle boots for eating in a beachside restaurant with your bride.
The making of the moccasin itself
The exterior appearance: details that are not details
Often invisible to the lay customer but easily spotted by a trained eye, a super quality moccasin is often made of pieces of leather cut in a particular direction . This direction is called “ lending direction ” and corresponds to cutting the part in the width direction (and not the length).
This process therefore involves not using leather scraps, thus guaranteeing the quality of the shoe. This lending sense gives the moccasin elasticity and flexibility allowing it to adapt to the wearer's feet while accentuating the feeling of comfort (especially when walking, by expanding and shrinking during the crushing/taking off process). of the ground). Yes, it's technical, but it's also very comfortable!
A quality moccasin should have a V-point “rear taper” (by pulling the heel of the shoe, a very pronounced V shape should appear).
If you can twist the moccasin, fold it, and see that it returns to its initial shape (unaltered after a few massages): it is a quality moccasin.
These moccasins have no hold: they are completely sagging. This is not good at all! Look at the front of the shoe on the right, it's as if the moccasin carried all the misfortune in the world before it was even purchased.
The seam finishes must be as neat and regular as possible, and above all not allow ends of thread to appear. The pins must cover the entire moccasin AND guarantee their flexibility .
Left: the seams of a 120 euro pair seem more fragile (thinner threads) and less neat. In the center: Bobrunel. And on the right: the seams of a pair for 300 euros, very different from the pair on the left.
Still on the Bobrunel moccasin, we can clearly see that the seams are more numerous and more regular than the beige moccasin in the previous image.
The shape of the shoe is telling. The different lines of force which give the shoe its shape are the result of clever calculations on the proportional relationships between the width, length, thickness, assembly and specificities of the upper.
The side, here circled in green, must be tightened to best fit the shape of the human foot. Quality moccasins therefore have a slightly concave side, not a straight one.
On the left, a moccasin for 120 euros, and on the far right: Bobrunel. The difference on the interior side is discreet but very present.
Ideally, the sewing threads are lubricated and the lacing threads are waxed, so as not to damage the leather due to friction.
The seams are neat and regular, beautiful work.
Then, there are the classic finishes to look closely at:
Here, the lining is not sewn very well on this €110 pair.
Here we see that the lining of this moccasin is carefully assembled.
This is a lining sewn with finesse and precision.
The interior appearance: for the comfort of a moccasin
Many quality points are hidden inside a moccasin and guarantee foolproof comfort. A good quality moccasin has two layers of insoles : the first for cleanliness and the second for comfort.
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The first cleanliness is a bit like the showcase of the moccasin. If it can be breathable, that's a plus .
- The second comfort , hidden under the first cleanliness, is much more technical and important. It ensures a real feeling of comfort. It is made of a plastic unique to each manufacturer, and whose composition is secret. Because depending on its chemical formula, it will have particular properties (comfort, flexibility, resistance, etc.).
Here, the comfort insole from a major brand is not breathable (it is not perforated). On a pair at €325, it's rather a shame.
Contrary to popular belief, a soft sole is not necessarily the most comfortable over time! The feeling of comfort will be even greater whether the sole is integral or not.
The final word: think moccasins!
There you have it, with everything we have just seen together, I think we have covered the question well! You now know how to recognize a beautiful pair of quality moccasins from more than 100 meters away.
Final note from Benoît: A big thank you to Bobrunel , who really played the game for the quality of his explanations and his teaching! And quite honestly, while it's not at all my style of shoes, it made me want to taste this famous summer comfort.
I'll add my little opinion on Bobrunel: they offer high-end quality, at a reasonable price of €140 (count at least €250 for an equivalent product from a classic brand). Beyond that, you can also customize the models.
