To continue the momentum of articles labeled “streetwear”, I decided to talk about a brand of sneakers. After testing a global brand ( Brooklyn We Go Hard ), I wanted to take a closer look at a “single product” brand developing real know-how. And this with Sawa: a brand specializing in sneakers, an essential piece of the “streetwear” wardrobe.
Sneakers add depth to a “street” outfit and allow you to make a difference. I would even go further and say that they give credibility to a street look. Any streetwear lover will first look at what you wear on your feet. This is the piece that will clearly allow you to stand out.
Sneaker lovers collect them in a more or less reasoned manner. Purists have the habit of buying a model in three copies: one to wear immediately, one to wear in 3 years and finally one for their personal archives. The “craziest” rappers don’t wear their pairs for more than a day, and therefore have hundreds of copies of their favorite models…
It's not a bluff what we're telling you:
basketball player Jarrett Jack with his collection of sneakers!
A parallel market has even developed: some buy a pair, don't wear it, and wait for its price to rise before reselling it and thus realizing a significant capital gain!
In December 2011, the launch of a pair of Jordan (Nike) caused unreasonable and tragic crowd movements, leading to the death of one person…
I advise you to watch the excellent documentary “Sneakers, the cult of basketball” which sums up the evolution of the sneaker and the state of mind that drives “sneaker addicts”, also called “sneakerheads”:
The entire documentary is available in full here .
“Converse” is no longer the only “all-purpose” sneaker
Just like the “streetwear” style, the models have evolved over the years and the clientele has diversified. Sneakers have increasingly detached themselves from the “streetwear” universe to integrate urban and dressy silhouettes. People with more sober or classic styles wear sneakers today, demonstrating the growing influence of “streetwear” on other clothing styles.
For a long time, Converse was the only viable option for people who were not fond of streetwear, but who still wanted to leave their shoes for casual models. A new offering has therefore been developed to complement the classics from Nike and Adidas. New brands have appeared such as National Standard , Someone , Veja, Piola or Sawa…
National Standard sneakers (available on L'Exception ) allow you to add a casual touch to a formal outfit.
L’Exception sneakers)
add a raw touch to your outfit.
Three Animals shirt and blazer, APC jeans
Today, all luxury houses offer a range of sneakers (Balmain, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Pierre Hardy, Saint Laurent Paris, etc.). Rapper Kanye West even collaborated with Louis Vuitton on a capsule collection of sneakers where good taste was of course not there...
One of the samples from the Kanye West x Louis Vuitton capsule collection.
Finally, we note a return of running in streetwear. I really like to incorporate into my outfit a pair of sneakers initially intended for running (or sport in general). What the New Balance brand offers is very interesting and allows you to add an effective twist by contrasting with the rest of your outfit. Be careful about the colors you choose. Running shoes often have “flashy” colors that are difficult to master. Start gently with classic colors.
Make sure they were made in their English factory in Flimby (the UK flag is embroidered on the tongue) or in the United States. Leave aside models made in Asia whose lifespan is less than 3 months.
Be careful, after your first purchase, you can easily get involved and start a collection of sneakers without really realizing it 🙂
SAWA: another idea of the sneaker
I discovered SAWA when the brand collaborated with the legendary American hip-hop group Public Enemy (group founded by Chuck D and Flavor Flav, two emblematic figures of the US rap scene). A collaboration which focused on a model of low black sneakers (the Dr Bess model), with an interesting play on materials (suede, leather, canvas) and a “leopard” print on the tongue. The shoes were designed by Eric Haze, a New York designer and graphic artist who notably designed the emblematic logo of the rap group… Public Enemy!
The shoes came with a Public Enemy t-shirt!
The iconic logo of the rap group Public Enemy designed by Eric Haze.
The brand therefore maintains close ties with artists from the hip-hop scene since it has also collaborated with the French rapper Oxmo Puccino, known for his subtle writing. This collaboration accompanied the launch of his latest album “Roi Sans Carosse” (2012).
The Oxmo x SAWA collaboration focused on the “Tsagué” high model.
Interesting collaborations, with meaning, and which pushed me to take a closer interest in this French sneaker brand.
Africa: a continent with real know-how
Created in 2009, SAWA (which is the name of one of the main ethnic groups in Douala, Cameroon) is a “Made in Africa” sneaker brand created by Medhi Slimani (formerly of Le Coq Sportif) and two other associates. They decided to bring together their two passions: Africa and sneakers. The idea was to create shoes in Africa and benefit the continent thanks to the economic benefits of the project.
Please note, SAWA is not intended to be an activist or activist brand. It does not want to be considered as the archetypal company promoting “fair trade”. It wants to compete with the big players in the sector like Nike, Adidas and Reebok. Their added value lies in the quality of the materials used and the manufacturing.
The SAWA logo - Made In Africa,
found on the tongue of all the brand's models.
The SAWA creator's goal is simply to create the perfect sneaker. Africa, and more particularly Ethiopia, has real know-how in shoe making. Quietly, Ethiopia is on its way to becoming the world's largest producer of shoes. The Huajian group, one of the largest Chinese shoe manufacturers (which works notably for Clarks) has just set up in the Dukem region, an industrial zone in the suburbs of Addis Ababa, the country's capital. It plans to invest $2 billion in the country over the next 10 years, and will employ up to 100,000 people.
A factory in China of one of the largest shoe manufacturers in the world: the Huajian group.
From Cameroon to Ethiopia
The story began in Cameroon, a country initially chosen for the energy and dynamism of its population. However, after two years of activity, the three partners decided to leave this country, tired of being confronted with a recurring problem: corruption, a real scourge which would have cost them nearly 500,000 euros in two years.
In 2011, the structure migrated to Ethiopia. Beyond the know-how developed in this country, numerous tax advantages are offered by the Ethiopian government to local companies to promote the industrial development of the region. In addition, the air hub established by Ethiopian Airlines makes it possible to transport raw materials easily to the factory and ship finished products to all corners of the world quickly.
Obviously, we must not hide it, the cost of labor is very interesting: the monthly salary of an Ethiopian is around 83 dollars compared to 467 dollars for a Chinese (in a private company).
Made in Addis Ababa (capital of the country), the entire sneaker is “Made in Africa: the leather comes from Nigeria and Ethiopia, the canvas from Cameroon, the laces from Tunisia, the rubber from Egypt and packaging from South Africa. At peak production, SAWA employs up to 200 people in Ethiopia.
Ethiopian workers in the SAWA factory in Ethiopia.
Today, the brand is distributed in more than 40 stores around the world.
What do SAWA sneakers look like? How to wear them?
There are two models of sneakers which both respect a single pricing policy (except for the women's models, at 135 euros): the Tsagué which is high (115 euros) and the Dr Bess which is low (85 euros). The entire design is focused on the use of different materials and more or less “flashy” colors.
The Tsagué model in suede at 115 euros.
The Dr Bess leather model at 85 euros, excellent value for money.
Please note, men's sizes start from 41 (sorry for small feet). We find sneakers in leather, suede leather and canvas.
A vintage, sober and refined design
The design of these shoes is sober and refined. However, those who prefer more “ambitious” colors can also opt for vibrant colors. For my part, I chose turquoise blue! Don't shy away from their vintage design, they will add an interesting twist to your outfit.
They can be easily integrated into all types of looks. You can combine them with a dressy, classic or streetwear outfit. Their versatility will allow you to wear them with your entire wardrobe. With raw jeans or chinos, a t-shirt or a shirt, they will blend naturally into your outfit.
The model in smooth turquoise blue leather that I tested.
I liked this unusual color in men.
I'm wearing gray BGFT jeans: the color contrast is interesting.
Turquoise does not shock and fits discreetly into the outfit
(and don’t take my jeans as an example: hem them!).
Bold Boys t-shirt and APC jacket
Note from Florian: as with his BWGH t-shirt, Alexandre fully embraces his streetwear side. The important thing is not to say to yourself “this is good/this is bad” but what encourages you to do it. Why does he like to wear these clothes this way? What emotions does this convey?
And the quality in all this?
Let's now review some essential points when judging the quality of a sneaker. Under no circumstances should you neglect the few points just because it is a “pair of sneakers”. Be as precise and meticulous in your choice as when you buy shoes. This is an essential reflex to have.
Indeed, high-end sneakers can easily cost several hundred euros. This is a real investment that deserves your full attention.
SAWA sneakers have an excellent quality/price ratio. At €85 and €115, it will be almost impossible for you to find a cheaper price for this level of quality.
Abrasion resistance
The sole of SAWA sneakers is ultra-resistant. A factory test is carried out to measure this resistance to abrasion: the sneakers are rubbed on a 40m abrasive belt. After this maneuver, the SAWA lose 79mm3 of volume on their sole. For example, a good quality shoe loses around 250mm3. SAWAs are therefore 3 times more resistant on average.
The soles of all SAWA sneakers feature the African continent.
Bending resistance
This is an essential point, especially if you plan to wear your sneakers regularly. Beyond abrasion resistance, it is the resistance at the bending point which allows us to judge the quality of the material used.
To test the resistance at the flex point, the sole of SAWA shoes is tested at the factory. They are first tilted at 90 degrees to define the flexion point. Then, this same point is weakened by a cut. The shoe is then folded 30,000 times. On a pair of SAWA shoes, this cut does not progress.
You can therefore wear these sneakers very regularly without worrying about your soles. For example, the sole of my Nike Air Force 1s clearly cracked after only a year of (admittedly intensive) wear; as if someone had stabbed it (or I have enemies).
With the arrival of winter and rain, they become unusable. For a model that only costs €100, did I get value for my money? Nothing is less certain... This is disappointing on an “iconic” model that many consider to be “the definition of sneakers”. This is where the quality/price ratio takes on its full meaning!
The drama: my Nike Air Force 1 sole splitting in two...
Resistance to the upper-sole connection
One of the particularities of SAWA shoes is that they are glued and sewn to the upper: which ensures great resistance at the upper/sole connection. This is a finish that was also found on BGNS, and which therefore ensures double resistance.
SAWA shoes are sewn and glued:
we note the very regular seam at the level of the sole.
Tear resistance
Similar to the flex point strength test, the rod is also tested at the factory. The stem is thus perforated in different places. We then exert increasing traction to widen these perforations. On average, it takes a force of 3.5 deca Newton to start widening the hole. For a SAWA shoe, this force must be increased to 7.6 deca Newton… The tear resistance is therefore more than twice the average.
The model alternates smooth leather and soft leather (suede).
In conclusion :
As I said in the article, before this product test, I did not know the SAWA brand. A big fan of sneakers, I tend to be a consumer of Nike, Adidas and New Balance. However, I find that this new wave of brands, of which SAWA is a part, is revitalizing the sneaker market.
SAWA offers sneakers with excellent value for money. They fit easily into an outfit, whatever your style. Their vintage look will bring an interesting twist.
For a streetwear fan, I recommend them because they will allow you to move away from the traditional brands mentioned, and will allow you to stand out with a quality product that tells a story. For others, it's an opportunity to start incorporating sneakers into your outfits, and add a "dressy casual" touch to your look.
SAWA sneakers are available in stores and on Exception.com
(who kindly gave us the pair used in the test).
In addition to the brand tests, do not hesitate to also reread the men's fashion advice page , to dress well.
