If “ style is the expression of thought ”
In business districts, I wonder how some manage to make wearing a suit so tasteless? Where is the personality? Where is the creativity? Where is the style?
Why not ask yourself questions and open up to break out of your little habits? We discover, we try, we adopt then we change. Like many of you, I have had periods where I was influenced by other styles. A detour to London, a trip to Rome, a dose of English style, a dose of Italian style. A bit of preppy style found in the United States, some Latin inspirations imported from South America...
I sincerely loved them but, with hindsight and experience, I realize that all these tests had another effect: that of making me want to rediscover what a slightly more French elegance is.
And precisely, at the bend of rue d'Hauteville in Paris, I discovered the Cinabre brand whose team is made up of authentic enthusiasts, truly creative people and... particularly stylish people.
Cinnabar or the art of giving men a twist
4 ties, 4 materials and 4 different twists. And they all fit very good looks
On a beautiful day in 2011, Alexandre Chapellier decided to leave the world of (too) large companies to change his life and realize an old dream: to design and produce beautiful accessories for elegant men.
And it was in his shared apartment that it all began: “ my roommates gently made fun of my adventure until the day the boxes started piling up all over the living room .” The Cinabre brand
The fruit of a long personal experience of style
Sensitive to style since his childhood, Alexandre was first influenced by English style - through his education in a British boarding school - with its almost folkloric uniforms, costumes and accessories which are intended to be the heritage of 'a tradition which partly borrows from the old French style. Alexandre then even, by his own admission, went through an authentic “Peacock” phase.
Looking back, Alexandre concedes with a smile: “ we always tend to overdo it at the beginning but I don't regret it, I have gained experience by trying my hand at English and Italian styles. But once you know the rules of elegance, it's time to break free from them… with elegance and creating your own style .”
A representative journey
Coming back to Cinabre, Alexandre made the following observation: “ Everyone has the same ties and I wanted to offer something different. A few very large Italian companies supply most of the sector with the same fabrics and the same patterns. I wanted to get out of this straitjacket that was a little too suitable for me and offer other materials and another construction .”
The nobility of materials
From materials coming from old English houses to converted vintage bandanas, Cinabre is very vigilant about the origin of its fabrics. “ There are so many interesting materials that combine perfectly to make beautiful accessories ” so why deprive yourself of them? I can attest to this: when I entered the store, I was able to see the variety of choices among the brand's range of materials: wool crepe, seersucker from New York, silk chiffon, denim fabric intended for merchant navy, textured matte silk with wide stripe, English wool, Harris Tweed tweed…
Wool crepe ties were the first discovery I made at Cinabre as a customer. No need to choose a tie in a color that contrasts with that of the suit... the quality and specificity of the material allows you to establish a subtle contrast with finesse. De Fursac suit, Charles Tyrwhitt Black Lapel tie.
Excellence in materials and prices
All brands talk about the excellence of the materials they use in their products but, in the end, few are legitimate in claiming both the variety and the real quality of these materials. Cinabre is positioned in luxury with ties from 115 to 135 euros or bow ties from 85 to 95 euros or pocket squares from 65 to 75 euros.
The quality of Cinabre accessories corresponds to their selling price even if their positioning does not necessarily put them at the height of all budgets. There are no small savings made on the quantity/quality of material used (which is the main source of costs) or on manufacturing. Like BonneGueule and more and more new brands, Cinabre does not have sales or private sales.
Note from Nicolò
“When Don says “one of the best value for money/style”, you should still know that it is not at all impossible to find ties of equal or similar quality, and at similar or even lower prices . And this, without lacking in style or aesthetic appeal.
On the other hand, where I agree with him is that Cinabre's style is original and has its own touch, and that such originality is often more expensive, especially if the quality is preserved. And if it's a style that speaks to you, then the price paid will be more than reasonable. For my part, I would rather speak of one of the best quality/price/originality ratios.”
Cinabre’s specific finishes
The majority of the brand's ties are made using the double blouse pleat . This is a skill that uses twice as much fabric by folding it on itself several times. If you are interested in ties, you know the fashion for seven-fold ties
It's time to stop fantasizing about this fashion which was launched and then popularized to the point of rhyming with good quality ties. The seven-fold tie is not always a sign of high quality . This is a marketing fad that has been put in the spotlight by manufacturers in order to promote their products.
The reality is that many seven-ply ties tend to fail.
Note from Nicolò
“So there, Don, once again, I want to qualify.
I completely agree: the seven-ply is not a guarantee of quality “in itself”. Other elements come into play: as with any product, there is no ultimate finish, or "magic word" that sums up quality in itself.
On the other hand, we cannot leave any doubt about the fact that the seven-ply manufacturing method is more laborious than standard manufacturing methods, takes more time and material, and is therefore more expensive, and by definition higher in price. range. And there are also very beautiful seven-ply ties, without lining or interlining, which are impeccable.
It all depends on what you expect from your tie, or even the fabric chosen. Because where some will say that a tie which maintains its shape perfectly is preferable, others will speak of lightness and flexibility. Quality has more than one way of defining itself... "
The wool interlinings used by Cinabre so that the ties retain their shape over time.
How to identify a quality tie?
If there is one sign that is unmistakable, it is a bad interlining mentioned earlier: it is very often made of synthetic and it is easily identifiable because it is very thick to give the impression that you have something for your money when it is not.
In a bad tie, to the touch, if you notice that the interlining is floating inside your tie like a " little lizard wandering around ", it may be a cheap synthetic interlining. I invite you to try this method and you will see. And a very bad tie will be recognized by the little fabric used, compensated for by a thick synthetic interlining.
Made in Italy is not a guarantee of absolute quality either: some use poor quality Asian fabrics and have them made in Italy. Poor quality fabric is often much smoother and flatter than real European fabrics which master this “ crisp ” appearance.
On this Prince of Wales tie, in wool from Scabal, we can see the reserve thread
(even if the color of the thread matches the color of the lining)
Historically, the presence of the spare thread indicated that the tie had been made by hand. Today, however, there is a LIBA machine which imitates this handmade impression but which is in truth a trompe-l'oeil. Cinabre does not use this machine and retains the manual production of this finish.
The reserve thread is not just an indicator, it has a use: that of giving flexibility to the tie while allowing it to regain its shape after having worn it all day. Finally, regarding the ties, the lining and the loop are made of Cinabre red silk twill, which are the easily recognizable visual identities of the brand.
As for the thread used for the bridle, it is 40: (N°40 = 40,000m / kg), thread used in light sails such as parachutes for example. It is stronger than the 60 traditionally used in clothing.
This photo of the very beautiful cosmic blue tie summarizes the majority of the brand's specificities.
Note from Nicolò
“This is just my opinion, but the “handmade bridle” (or travetto as it is called in my country of origin) seems a bit fragile to me (only one pass of the thread). She deserved a little extra reinforcement in my opinion. A collision with a sharp object, a zip or a button happens so quickly, and the thread can easily be cut...
I would also draw attention to the need to define the expression "handmade" on which there is a lot of misuse of language.
When we talk about handmade, it is an operation carried out by a hand, a thread, and a needle. That’s it!
However, if certain finishes on the tie are manual, we cannot say that it is “entirely handmade” either. The lining, for example, is sewn with a sewing machine. Which is completely normal and not a guarantee of good or bad quality. The tie will not be more or less solid. It's simply a question of having an "extra soul" and tradition, or not.
Just remember that "handmade" exists in varying degrees of fidelity to the term used, and that very few products are "handmade" from start to finish (a tailor friend even told me sometimes "extremism" for tailors who do not touch the sewing machine once for a jacket And yet he works for a large house in Bespoke). »
The “Golden Triangle of the beautiful tie” according to Cinabre
A high-end tie is actually a delicate balance between:
- The fabric : the quality and, depending on the materials, the thickness are decisive and constitute the main source of costs for a tie
- The interlining : a wool interlining and a thickness adapted to the fabric are decisive for maintaining the tie and its shape over time
- The confection : at this stage, it would be a shame to spoil the quality of the fabric and the interlining with a confection that is not up to standard
This balance is not based on a fixed mathematical rule: for each tie and for each material, this balance must be found, which requires multiple tests with the creation of prototypes to test and then achieve this balance which will make the tie an authentic one. luxury accessory.
The ties are made in the Loir et Cher in the brand's workshops and the assembly is entirely done by hand. This little video gives an idea of how to make a Cinabre tie:
As for bow ties , they are pre-tied by hand to give them a natural look. It is a compromise which allows you to give a result close to that of "authentic" bow ties, which you tie yourself, while gaining a little in ease of use. We also notice the presence of an adjustable metric band, which can be useful for adjusting them to your neck size.
The photo of this burgundy caviar silk bow tie clearly shows the metric band. The bow tie comes pre-tied by hand, but you can obviously do it yourself.
The pouches are also handmade in the Monts Lyonnais region, made from silk muslin, cashmere, linen or pique cotton.
Buttonholes , carnations or gardenias
After using a special coating to stiffen the silk, the petals are cut by hand using this tool which has stood the test of time.
Then, hot molding is carried out in order to give the final shape to the petals. Everything is done by hand and the molds are more than a century old. When we talk about luxury and traditions, Cinabre does not limit itself to marketing and uses the best suppliers, guarantors of historical and very rare know-how.
As you can see on the right of the photo, each buttonhole actually requires several silk flowers.
The flowers are assembled by hand by a skilled and experienced maker.
The buttonhole gradually takes its final shape...
The buttonhole, and here it is a red silk carnation to be precise, is ready to be pinned on the jacket of an eminently elegant man.
And with a pair of cufflinks, it's even better, “Don Draper approved”.
The caps , new this year, are radically different from those you are used to coming across: in seersucker or a light breathable wool knit, they are lined in silk, with a padded band to ensure good support while preserving the shape of the cap over time. The brand has chosen to retain the use of picots to remain faithful to the spirit of the piece. The caps are made in a hat shop in Jurançon.
Top finishes for this cap!
How to wear Cinabre accessories?
Two examples of outfits specially chosen to illustrate the use of accessories with on one side a casual look and on the other, more classic, that adopted in a formal environment. Good humor is not an accessory but an essential bonus 😉 Striped cotton jacket bought at flea markets, custom-made shirt made in Singapore, Levi's 511 jeans.
Accessories have an essential place in an outfit. The proof ? Wear just a suit, a shirt and a pair of the most classic shoes (like most executives on Fridays…) and then look at the result. Even if the suit has a good material, an interlining made according to the rules of the art and a good cut, an impeccable shirt and well-maintained shoes, you will have every chance of having a most ordinary outfit, if not to say boring, more or less well worn depending on your physique.
In no case should we trust certain outfits of well-known actors like George Clooney or Ryan Gosling, who can be content to wear a classic suit and shirt without risking appearing ordinary: their face is known and it is she who will mainly attract the eye.
Where accessories will fully play their role is when they allow you to twist with elegance, discretion or even with a zest of subversion, depending on the occasion . And these occasions range from the casual event in which you still want to stand out from the crowd from the top to the formal occasions which require wearing a suit. This is what we will demonstrate in the following lines.
The tie: the choice of an elegance that is sometimes discreet, sometimes fun
Burgundy herringbone tie in English wool and cotton pocket square with honeycomb texture. Besides the quality of the tie (and the categorical refusal to adopt the large symmetrical knot known as Windsor), the color is a shade of burgundy which I find particularly well chosen.
If the tie has long moved away from its military origins - a beautiful accessory tied by horsemen and soldiers - it has become essential for any modern gentleman, and, on this subject, I recommend reading the article BonneGueule: How to choose, tie and wear a tie correctly?
Long before contributing to BonneGueule, I was a customer of Cinabre and the first piece I acquired from them was obviously a beautiful tie. Being demanding in this area, I also discovered many materials and shades, which allows me to be able to play thoroughly with the nuances.
Just look at all the shades of blue for ties and their different patterns to get an idea.
As we will show in the following photos, we do not wish to present you with looks that are too Pitti Uomo, nor too folkloric like those worn by some fans of the traditional English style.
Style change: 60s moleskin work jacket, two-tone shirt and linen Cinabre tie. Note the reserve thread, highlighted in the photo. The shade of the tie contrasts with the rest of the outfit to add a touch of color. Custom-made shirt, vintage jacket bought at flea markets.
Same look but we notice in hindsight that if the tie contrasts with the rest of the outfit, it serves to avoid a monochrome effect, white being not enough on its own to counterbalance the predominance of blue.
The duck blue flannel tie whose color subtly balances between blue and green. It fits a majority of costumes. It seemed interesting to me to play on the shades of color rather than on a color that stands out too strongly.
From a little further away, we notice less the difference between the colors chosen for the tie and the suit but the aim is precisely to play on the nuances AND on the materials with a beautiful wool flannel for the tie whose appearance and the texture contrasts gently with a suit, certainly in wool and with a slight Prince of Wales pattern but with a much smoother appearance.
Traditional silk twill ties are also in the spotlight at Cinabre but always made in France by hand and with a twist that the most curious will notice. While it is generally accepted that overly humorous patterns should be avoided in ties, a little more subtle touch helps remind us that we are not here to take ourselves too seriously. Ready for a cocktail?
As said in the previous photo, the patterned tie looks more classic from a distance.
And even further, if these two styles are different, it allows you to see how on one side and the other, the accessories can subtly distinguish themselves. Campanile shoes and Savile Row glasses on the left, New Balance sneakers made in the USA on the right.
Adrien, Alexandre's partner, brings a "Heritage" touch with a double-breasted jacket from the 70s and which is in fact one of his father's jackets that he wanted to wear again, adjusted to his body shape. A beautiful transmission that is combined with a navy blue seersucker tie and a velvet buttonhole. Wicket double-breasted blazer.
The Cinabre team is always looking for materials from which it wants to offer a different twist. This tie worn by Adrien is made from period bandanas, the pattern is clearly retro and fits well with clothes with a more classic appearance and which counterbalances the bandana pattern.
Difficult to match a Hawaiian tie? Alexandre dares and pairs it with a more conservative outfit which, instead of making the tie stand out too much, balances it with a reminder of the dominant color. The Hawaiian tie provides enough originality, in this case it is preferable to do without other accessories such as the buttonhole or the pocket square. Custom-made cashmere blazer made in Singapore.
The original but consistent details with this type of tie: instead of the traditional strap, some Hawaiian ties have a coconut button.
A useful juxtaposition of outfits: if the one on the left can be enriched, in addition to the beautiful duck blue flannel tie, with a pocket square, the outfit on the right does not in fact need any additional accessories in order to avoid overloading it. You can begin to see the potential of the Hawaiian tie and how it can be incorporated into a look without being too out of place. Just the right amount of originality...
In the end, does this tie seem unwearable to you? I myself am pleasantly surprised.
Advice
It is very important not to limit yourself to the close-up of a photo of a tie: this will only give you a very incomplete idea and above all it will limit you because you will only focus on the tie and its details when it should also fit into an overall look. The vast majority of people you meet on the way or in the office will only see you from 3-5 meters away... Alexandre recommends that you see the effect of wearing a tie up close, to see the details. , and then move away from the mirror to see how a tie, even more original, can go very well with your look. This is where you can say, “ this style of tie is made for me ” (or not), not before.
As you can see, there is nothing boring about a tie, it is one of the most useful accessories to not only enrich an outfit but also to give it all the fun. It is no longer a question of being for or against the tie but of seeing things from another angle and all the potential of this accessory in a casual environment or in a more formal environment.
The subversive bow tie
One of my favorite pieces: the Blue Seersucker Bow Tie. As its name suggests, it's made of cotton seersucker and it comes from New York. Featuring an adjustable metric band and a Cinabre red silk twill reverse. And tastefully pre-tied by hand.
For many, it may seem difficult to wear a bow tie except on very rare occasions. Being a big tie fan myself, I saw the bow tie as an eccentricity – it was a very long time ago, in a distant galaxy as Alexandre (and George Lucas) would say. Interesting stylistically but how to wear it every day? The answer is simple: with nonchalance and a little elegantly subversive side . Don't forget: he likes to dress stylishly, but then, during the day, he no longer really cares about what he wears.
Enjoy the game with subtlety in terms of materials: the blue and the texture of seersucker goes perfectly with a very classic suit and a white shirt. The Cinnabar red silk twill reverse adds a touch of color.
An anecdote to help you take the plunge
A friend wore a bow tie from time to time. During one evening, we made the nice bet of dropping the tie and coming to the office every Friday in a bow tie, in a formal environment. Let me tell you that not only did we perform as well at work as ever, but we also had a lot of fun and, what's more, while the other colleagues just dropped their ties on Fridays, our beautiful colleagues always found a compliment very pleasant against us. And no barbs from an embittered/envious/grumpy colleague. This is enough to make your Friday much more fun than spending it just waiting feverishly for the weekend...
If you believe for a single moment that the bow tie risks being a “clown” in the street, look from afar at its integration with a classic suit and a simple white pocket square: the bow tie does not stand out (unlike other passers-by )s…) and yet the red silk twill subtly distinguishes it and brings just the right amount of color. It is with a confident step that one must climb the hill in a style neither boring nor fanciful.
Advice
My opinion has changed profoundly over the years. Now, I see in the bow tie an elegant joy that brings an incomparable twist to a classic outfit. While I would not hesitate to wear it a little more often on Fridays for example, Alexandre would advise wearing it for beautiful events and special occasions (not necessarily a wedding but also to please your girlfriend by inviting her to the restaurant). The rest is in your hands. Or rather on your neck.
Or incidentally on a pile of books.
And to go into more detail about wearing a bow tie, I recommend Florian's excellent article: How to wear a bow tie?
The art of the cover
Sublime clutch in white silk chiffon with a Cinnabar red border. For now, you can abandon the tie and adopt a shirt with a stand collar.
A clutch subtly enhances a jacket. Often, in our minds, we systematically associate it with a tie but this is not necessarily an absolute rule. A pocket square can be worn separately, without a tie. The pocket square is both subtle, discreet and brings personality to a suit or blazer .
If you don't like to be noticed by a cover that still seems too original to you, a simple play on the shades of colors is perfectly possible with a very small dose of originality in the arrangement of the cover. This one is made of cashmere.
If some require a little skill to compose them, this superb red silk chiffon clutch did not need to be mishandled for hours to adopt a pretty shape... it took less than a minute and took its toll. time. Silk chiffon is now quite rare to find in clutches and it has a more romantic side due to the movement inherent in its texture.
Advice
Elegance is the key word when we talk about a clutch and the art of composing it allows us to enhance this accessory even more with finesse. On the other hand - for pity's sake - if there is one rule to observe in the field of the pocket square, it is not to try to coordinate it TOO MUCH with your tie if you wear one.
The dapper Boutonniere
“Nothing embellishes an outfit more pleasantly than the flower stuck in the side…” - Fred Astaire
Perfect combination of a red sweatshirt, a striped cotton jacket and a vintage denim button-up from the merchant navy.
The buttonhole is certainly the most charming accessory there is and one of the last clues of that beautiful, slightly old-fashioned elegance that comes to us from the greatest years of men's style. Yes, masculine . Since time immemorial – long before the arrival of ties or cufflinks – men have enriched their clothes or hats with very diverse ornaments.
The buttonhole scares you because it's too dressy? Look how naturally it fits. Coming across Alexandre one day in this outfit, I asked him to wear it again for the shoot because it exudes balance and naturalness. The classic jeans/sweatshirt/shirt combo is enriched by the striped cotton jacket (a nod to preppy style). The buttonhole adds a finishing touch that is neither formal nor precious.
It would come from a gallant gesture from Queen Victoria's great love, Prince Albert, who wished to wear one of the flowers offered by his young wife on his coat. And for information, long before appearing for a symbol of English conservatism, Queen Victoria was passionately in love with her husband, the latter's disappearance causing her eternal grief) by making a small hole in her jacket to pass it through. This is how petite couture was born
Club tie, double-breasted jacket, absence of pocket square (no need to overload the outfit) and pretty buttonhole in Harris Tweed (available in store) which fits subtly into the outfit by playing on the nuances around blue.
The previous photo showed an outfit that was too classic? Mistake: the Cinabre seersucker cap, denim and sneakers turn things around and combine here with a double-breasted jacket, a two-tone shirt and a club tie without making the overall look look weird. Alexandre perfectly masters the codes to better divert and twist them naturally.
Otherwise, there’s nothing stopping you from wearing a buttonhole with a color that stands out more…
… or conversely, to calm things down by adopting more neutral tones that can be brought out slightly.
In fact, there are many possibilities for enriching simple shirts and jackets.
Advice
The buttonhole can be worn with a tie or alone. It is not forbidden to have other accessories but Alexandre recommends that you do not overload your outfit by combining it with a clutch for example. Try it, you will be surprised by its role as an ice-breaker 😉
The final word
Even if you have a nice suit or good quality blazer, a perfectly tailored Egyptian cotton poplin shirt
The entire outfit can be perfectly mastered, you seem to have everything and yet you are missing the essential : this point of detail that is both subtle and yet so important. I've seen enough executives abandon the tie to pretend to be more "casual" on Fridays to notice the almost deadly boredom of their suits.
And even with good quality costumes. Do you find a lot of originality in seeing clones dressed in the same navy blue suit? This is where the accessory takes on its importance, this is where a tie and/or a pocket square or a buttonhole show that there is absolutely nothing boring about a suit or jacket. The boring, leave it to the true conformists who are too afraid of a few masculine accessories... But for fun and elegance, go take a look at Cinabre and discover the full potential of your outfit.
Discussion at the summit around a pocket watch (watchmaking guarantee of the article ^^) with Alexandre who has fun mixing Scots Guards jacket (purchased in a military surplus), cap, denim and sneakers.
