I've been wanting to get some leather for some time. After convincing myself of the necessity of having this piece in my wardrobe (yes, I assure you that this step takes time), I had to look at the market a little more closely.
So I started looking at what brands were offering and, above all, looking at the leather jackets worn on the street. This second step took time but, very quickly, I turned to Schott (inventor of the Perfecto ) because it is a brand which has real know-how and whose prices are far from crazy.
Schott: a brand of leather jackets that sets the standard
Why did you choose a Schott (pronounced “chotte”) jacket ? Quite simply because the brand has real expertise in leather.
Understand by this that the leather jacket is not a piece buried among others in a large collection plan. Working with this material has been part of their DNA and their history since the beginning. Mastery of the creation and industrialization processes is therefore legitimate.
This is valuable advice that I am giving you: before purchasing a piece of this type, you must turn to the specialists , the historical players in the market. Mastering leather doesn't happen overnight, so you might as well trust a brand that has been doing it from the beginning.
History of the Schott brand
A little flashback: in 1913, the Schott brothers (Irving and Jack) set up a clothing design and manufacturing factory in New York. To begin with, they specialize in rain gear: they make oilskins in their small apartment on the Lower East Side.
Very quickly, the pieces were recognized for their resistance and functionality. But the history of the brand will take on a whole new dimension in 1928.
The brand that invented the perfecto for men
That year, the brand received a somewhat special order from a Harley Davidson store: a leather jacket, which had to be durable, without compromising on style. Irving, a motorcycle enthusiast, jumped at the opportunity and that year Schott launched the first leather jacket with a zip: the Perfecto !
Schott still owns the trademark "Perfecto" which refers to the Cuban cigars that Irving used to smoke. For the record, the first Perfectos were sold for $5.50!
An archive: a Schott Perfecto from 1970.
What the men’s wardrobe owes to Schott
In 1940, in the middle of World War II, and like many other American companies, Schott stopped all civilian production to participate in the war effort , thus becoming one of the largest suppliers of clothing to the American army.
They supplied woolen coats to the US Navy, leather jackets (flight jackets) and nylon models (bombers) to the army. air.
A Schott pea coat.
All these pieces are considered “bestsellers”, “must-haves” and are still part of the Schott collections today. This military influence is also found on all the other pieces in the collections.
History of the flight jacket
I wanted to test a versatile jacket but still have a dose of character. So I turned to the LC1380 model, which revisits a great men's wardrobe basic: the flight jacket .
It's clearly a military-inspired jacket with a real history, there are different categories. Each of them is associated with a heritage, with an army corps... It is important to assimilate the differences in style to avoid making mistakes.
A birth in the air
Historically, the flight jacket was developed for aviators of the First World War. Indeed, the open cockpits of planes forced aviators to find a jacket warm enough to withstand the cold temperatures.
Altitude, cold, enemy squadrons... Hence the need to cover well.
It was in 1917 that the US Army Aviation launched the development of the first flight jacket with relatively simple specifications: a jacket with a high collar (sometimes lined); a zipper with a flap; a large ribbed cuff at the waist to insulate against the cold (also called tricotine).
The different types of flight jackets
In 1927, all US Air Force pilots were equipped with an A1 jacket , which was a reinterpretation of the jacket developed ten years earlier, with similar characteristics but in jacket format: a raised collar, two pockets, and ribbed edges at the waist and cuffs.
The A1 flight jacket with its raised knit collar.
Very shortly after, the A1 jacket was replaced by the A2 jacket (which has a shirt-type collar).
From 1930, the latter was standardized and equipped all American fighter pilots. Except the American Navy (the US Navy), which prefers a derivative to equip its naval aviation: the G1 jacket (very close to the A2).
In the photo, we can clearly see the change in collar which is a classic shirt collar.
The difference: the A2 is equipped with a leather collar and shoulder tabs while the G1 has a fur collar without shoulder tabs.
The A2 and G1 jackets were very popular with pilots who personalized them by adding the insignia of their units, drawings of pinups or warrior figures.
Test of the LC1380 jacket from the Schott brand (€439)
The jacket I chose is the LC1380 model. You will have understood, with its sheep fur collar , this one is rather inspired by the G1 jacket.
Luca was willing to play the role of model (I think he looks like Maverick in Top Gun...).
The piece is quite short: it will not cover your buttocks. However, the ribbing will insulate you well from the cold.
A versatile collar
I really like the removable collar . This makes the piece more versatile and less “military”. The hanging system works with very good quality press studs (don't worry, the collar will not tear off) and a button that fits through a loop.
The quality of the leather
The jacket is made of cowhide leather, one of the most commonly used leathers in the making of this type of piece because it is robust.
In addition, the skin texture (in other words, the pattern of the skin's surface) is overall regular and homogeneous. We still notice some defects in the skin in certain places, but the visual result is beautiful and clean.
For this price, it will be very difficult for you to find better ("perfect" skins without any defects are reserved for the luxury industry). I invite you to (re)read Romain Rousseau's excellent article on how to recognize quality leather.
Finally, the jacket weighs 2.20 kg! I assure you that when worn, you can feel it! At first, it's quite unpleasant and you feel constrained by the clothing. But over time, the leather will soften and everything will return to normal (freedom of movement, etc.).
Advantage of the thickness of the leather and its weight: it keeps you very warm!
With gray Bonne Gueule jeans and Meermin ankle boots. It's a piece that goes with all outfits (chinos, jeans, shirts, t-shirts, etc.).
Effective finishes
I really like pieces with large ribbed edges : this insulates from the cold and ensures good support of the sleeve at the beginning of the wrist (no risk of the sleeve "nibbling" the wrist). Those of the jacket are of good quality because they do not loosen or fray over time.
The side pockets have a clever double-pocket system. The first is easily accessible by removing a snap button: place everyday objects there. The second is zipped, it is recommended for more precious goods.
The zipped pocket on the heart side will allow you to slip in small change, transport cards, keys and other small items. They are all fleece lined and will keep your hands warm.
The interior of the jacket has a few pleasant surprises: two interior pockets with leather finishes and fleece lining, as well as a pocket for storing your cell phone (with ventilation eyelets).
The removable liner
The body lining (nylon) is removable and very practical. Attached to the jacket, it adds an extra layer and provides a little more warmth and insulation.
Separate (thanks to a clever buttoning system), it will serve as a sleeveless vest. Its finishes pleasantly surprised me: the side pockets are fleece lined and the leather piping is clean. The interior pocket with a snap button has the same characteristics.
Finally, we end up with a real second piece (for my part, I put it over some of my winter sweaters, it goes easily under any type of outerwear).
Please note: once the lining is removed, a nylon “under-lining” will appear: your skin will never be next to the leather.
This is what the lining looks like. It's actually a real little sleeveless vest, very well finished but unfortunately a little too short...
The Schott jacket is available here.
Another interesting piece of the reinterpreted military wardrobe: the bomber jacket. We see more and more of them on men in the street. But here again, it's difficult to find what you're looking for: many come from thrift stores and the cut is therefore outdated ("lump on leg" effect) and others, better cut, are of poor quality.
Recently, Schott teamed up with American College to design a bomber jacket that skillfully combines respect for tradition and modernization. I asked Maxime to tell me what he thought of this piece.
The history of the men's bomber
The bomber, also called Flight Jacket MA-1, appeared in the 1950s.
It was the jacket used by US Air Force and US Navy pilots . It is produced by the historic company Alpha Industries (bomber code name: MIL-J-8279), but also by the Schott brand which wanted to diversify its jacket offering.
US Air Force pilots wearing bombers.
This replaces leather jackets and bombers with a fur collar (also called B-15), because it is lighter and more practical (the fur collar was inconvenient for attaching the pilots' harness).
Like many clothes we wear today, it originated in military use and then popularized at the end of the 60s, being worn by stars such as James Dean, Marilyn Monroe and Steeve McQueen in The Hunter .
With slimmer cuts, the same look is just as possible 50 years later.
Today, the bomber is a classic piece of men's (and women's) wardrobe, well anchored in the collective imagination thanks to Tom Cruise in Top Gun and the brands that revisit it season after season.
Here are the characteristics found on this piece:
- The bomber jacket can be recognized by its nylon fabric, often blue or olive green, with the orange lining which served as a marker for pilots in distress (very useful if you find yourself on a desert island);
- The jacket has a zipped pocket on the left sleeve which allows you to put your wallet or even a phone;
- Two flap pockets equipped with press studs accentuate the practical side of the garment;
- The cotton collar is knitted in the same way as the ribbed edges located on the sleeves and at the waist of the jacket, which insulate against the cold;
- Finally, the jacket closes with a zip going up to the collar.
Test of the khaki American College bomber jacket from the Schott brand (€175)
Even though the iconic brand is Alpha Industries, Schott nylon bombers are made for aviation.
We therefore legitimately find these models still today in the brand's catalog.
Schott has taken all the classic and historical details of the bomber while working on the cut, which is very fitted.
The cut is fitted, the jacket goes very well with jeans and ankle boots. (Schott x American College bomber, BonneGueule jeans, Atelier Voisin ankle boots)
Bomber interior
We therefore find the famous orange lining composed of 55% viscose and 45% acetate (a derivative of viscose), which is very correct in terms of strength and comfort. We are far from the low-end standards that we often find for this type of room.
A pocket that closes with a snap button is positioned on the left side and adds a practical effect to this lining.
The orange lining served as an SOS signal to the pilot in case of problems.
Practical finishes
The other characteristic of this jacket is the zipped pocket on the left arm, a practical and aesthetic detail of this type of garment. The zip is well made and the pocket is large enough to put your papers or wallet. There are also 4 storage spaces for pens or metro tickets.
It's a well thought out detail, practical when you don't want to open your jacket and catch a cold.
A zipped pocket on the left arm with storage.
The exterior side pockets are slanted, allowing easy access to keep your hands warm or store your belongings. They are also equipped with flaps with press studs, an extra layer of security so you don't lose what you put there.
I noticed that the snaps can wear out quickly, so be careful when closing the pocket.
Very practical side pockets this season to keep your hands warm.
The other advantage of the bomber is that it is equipped with very thick ribbed edges on the hands, at the waist and at the neck. Very useful when temperatures approach 0, they do the job of keeping the body warm.
Having taken the photos on a day when it was 0°C, I didn't feel the wind or the cold infiltrating.
The ribbing of the sleeves is very thick on the hand side and then widens to allow for a watch or bracelets.
The last point to note is the imposing zip which allows the jacket to be closed. It goes up to the collar and a leather strap gives an authentic touch to this bomber jacket which remains faithful to its origins.
A strong and efficient zip.
My opinion on the Schott men's bomber jacket
I am pleasantly surprised by this jacket , a mid-season piece that remains effective in cold weather.
It's 100% nylon, the seams are clean and close together, the ribbing is thick and the lining is very comfortable while being durable.
The cut is fitted as it should, you can wear a sweater underneath. It's a real jacket, it stops at the waist, at the top of the buttocks.
The bomber is made in China and sold for 149 euros on the brand's website. At this price, it will be difficult to find such a well-assembled piece with all these technical details.
For those who are more skeptical about Made in China , I invite you to reread this article which explains very well the importance of the quality/price ratio in the origin of a product.
You can find the Schott bomber here .
The jacket and all its details: ribbed edges, arm and side pockets, zip closure.
My opinion on the Schott brand
I find that Schott is a brand with real good value for money . A leather jacket with removable sheepskin collar for €439, I think it's a very good purchase. Ditto for a bomber jacket at €175, well cut.
The brand reinterprets the military wardrobe by adapting it to urban wear and everyday use (the bombers found cheaper in thrift stores have a very pronounced ball-shaped cut).
The pieces exude a real identity, bordering on “bad boy”, and are enough in themselves to constitute a look. I therefore advise you to favor simple pieces to complete your outfit.
