Good fit, long coat and big feet effect – Readers’ letters #01 –

Bon fit, manteau long et effet grands pieds – Courrier des lecteurs #01 –
Henley: how to choose and wear this heroic garment Reading Good fit, long coat and big feet effect – Readers’ letters #01 – Next Editorial nuggets #02 – David

In responding to the thousands of comments you ask us each month , I often see very interesting questions, and more than once, I say to myself that the answer might be of interest to more than one person.

This is why we decided to launch this new weekly format never seen before: answers to our readers! Eh eh.

Here we go for this first episode.

Between two sizes, which one to choose?

The question

Gabriel found a shirt that he really likes, but he is hesitating between two sizes: in 37, the finish is very good but it is a bit tight. In 38, he is more comfortable but feels that the shirt is a little big.

My answer

It is this part of your message that serves as the basis for my response:

“She restricted my movements a little in my pecs and was quite uncompromising with my food consumption during restaurants with friends”

As Benoît says in his video on his personal vision of clothing, for example : clothing should accompany you on a daily basis , help you “enjoy your life” and not constrain you.

men's raw denim blue shirt

It may look nice in the photo, but even if it is a jersey shirt, it is a little small for this gentleman (shoulders coming out of the seam, arms and body too fitted and tugged buttonhole) !

Given the information you give, the shirt mentioned looks small in 37 . I think you should size up, and you can possibly get darts in the back from a retoucher.

Yes, clothing should fit properly. No, we won't advise you to dress "too big" at BonneGueule. But you shouldn't become too strict about this either: every extra centimeter of fabric does not mean that a garment is necessarily "too big".

If you want to know more, Benoît spoke on this subject in his episode of Let's Talk Clothes where he talks to you about the things he has stopped worrying about.

A long coat when you're little?

The question

It's a question I've seen asked a lot in recent weeks: "Is this coat suitable for a person who is [ insert height less than 1m75 ]?"

My answer

First of all: what is a long coat?

We can consider that a coat is rather long when it reaches below mid-thighs and that it is rather short if it reaches above mid-thighs.

In your case, at 1m72, you can wear a long coat , even if there is a (small) risk. And you're not that small.

The proof in the image with Nicolò, who also measures 1m72:

Nicolo long blue double-breasted coat turtleneck scarf jeans joggers

Is this coat “too long” for him? I can’t find it, and neither can he :)

Why does it work ? Because he assumes what he wears, because he feels comfortable in it.

Here is some additional information from Nicolò:
  • As long as your coat doesn't reach below your knees, it's fine
  • A fitted cut will logically highlight you more than a very straight, very “curtain” cut.
  • To add verticality, don't hesitate to wear boots which will add continuity to your silhouette. The 2 or 3cm heel will also help you a little
  • Still with a view to verticality, you can also think about letting a scarf hang around your neck (if thermal conditions permit)

If you are not very sure of yourself and this risk-taking still scares you, a short coat remains a completely valid choice: with a short pea coat or a zipped wool jacket, no risk.

men's blue pea coat jean style derbys glasses pouch Japanese beret

This gentleman must not be more than 1m75 tall. His pea coat is rather short. Everything is going well. (Photo credits: The 21st)

Finally, given your question, I don't have the impression that you have tried many long coats, even though you say you love them. You might think I'm breaking down an open door, but I invite you to go to a store near you and try different types (straight overcoat, double-breasted overcoat, duffle coat , parka) from different brands. And maybe you'll realize that it suits you quite well! 🙂

One last inspiration for the road:

scott schuman look double breasted coat white pants scarf

There was another before photo here. But the silhouette didn't look very good, as you pointed out to us in the comments. So, here's another one, with the same gentleman: Scott Schuman!

And, as a reminder, you can review these two contents on this subject:
- How to dress when you are small and thin
- How to dress when you are short and stocky

What shoes to avoid the “big feet” effect?

The question

Finally, a subject that we don't necessarily think about but which is worth looking into: which shoes to choose so as not to look like you have "clown feet"?

My answer

1. Pay attention to the pants

Given your height and your shoe size, I think you shouldn't wear "slim jeans" (in the first sense of the term: very fitted cut) because whatever you put on your feet, it will quickly give you a "tall" effect. feet". A well-fitted leg and dress shoes won't necessarily flatter your figure.

I would rather advise you to opt for jeans (and pants) that are a little less fitted, with a larger leg opening that will cover more of the shoe: typically, a more "straight" cut.

herringbone pants red socks brown chukka men

Beautiful pants, which highlight the shoes. But we will also admit that the “big feet” effect is particularly present here.

2. Pay attention to shoes

For a better visual effect, I advise you to opt for shoes with a rather round shape (rather derbies a priori) and, on the contrary, to avoid very tapered shoes (rather brogues) .

Because a photo is worth a thousand words, here is a pretty telling example:

velasca loding one cut derbies toe cap

LodinG on the left. Velasca on the right.

A pair of shoes with a rounder shape will perhaps look a little less dressy than a more tapered pair, but will be worn in the same way without any particular problem, with a suit, jeans or chinos.

The thinking carried out here is also valid for pants that are very tight at the crotch in general: with fitted pants, you should avoid shoes that are too pointy.

As usual, don't hesitate to give us your feedback in the comments and see you next week for another episode.

David Hao, maximum soft tailoring

I think clothing can be a beautiful means of personal development. I like unstructured jackets, straight pants and loafers.

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