Podium(s): trends from Paris fashion week

Those of you taking the subway, or at least those who manage to get there, may have come across some strange animals this morning.

Recognizable by their theoretically impractical style, their monogrammed accessories and their half-condescending, half-candid air - even when their face is crushed against the door of a crowded train car - journalists invade our capital to attend dozens of parades (and discover the French-style strike in the process).

After London and Milan , here we are at last. Paris…

Of all the fashion weeks, ours is the longest. An eclectic mix of tradition and modernity, where young talents, established labels and big houses rub shoulders. A global fashion beacon, several foreign brands systematically choose to present their collections there.

Elegance, avant-garde, sportswear, casual, workwear, street… The City of Lights has something for everyone. So, what does it have in store for this season?

What to remember: tips to steal...

The Parisian edition turns out to be the one offering the most trends. Some are common to other capitals, others are unique to it, almost all are affordable...

1. Life in pink

Whatever the register, vivid nuances appear.

An effective idea to liven up your looks, which can be achieved by a single colored piece — possibly patterned — among more sober tones: gray, blue, beige, etc.

Without taking too many risks, also think about accessories. Otherwise, don't think too much and trust your instinct.

2. Tailor a suit

The costume is getting younger.

Opt for loose cuts, which will bring nonchalance to the silhouette. We can first get our hands on an oversized blazer, before considering the pants.

In the same spirit of relaxation, replace the shirt with a turtleneck or a t-shirt.

Small clarification: modern, the result remains less formal, therefore less suited to a strict professional environment.

3. The praise of simplicity

Jeans and blazer, velvet chinos and overcoat, tailored trousers and chunky knitwear… Combinations you know by heart.

Whether it's composed with workwear, refined, formal or sporty notes, an outfit created around timeless pieces will never let you down.

So keep doing what you already do very well...

4. A new streetwear?

Streetwear is calming down.

Drawing on original materials and details, this hybrid dimension makes it more versatile, therefore ideal for mixing with other influences.

In addition, the tracksuit is making a comeback.

Why not, as long as you choose it sober . Otherwise, you can start from the bottom only, to wear with a jacket or a straight coat.

5. Hike, work, sleep

The down jacket is becoming commonplace.

Comfortable and warm, models without too much volume will be easier to wear .

They will reveal all their interest mixed with other styles, thus creating a contrasting look.

An outerwear parka will also work.

6. Armed landing

Military references are legion.

Khaki is particularly present. As versatile as gray or blue, it will not pose any difficulty to you.

The same goes for cargo pants, which will work just as well with a casual shirt as a t-shirt or knitwear.

Finally, look at techwear.

Without going as far as a total look, a raincoat or nylon chinos will naturally go with casual items and will add a twist to more conventional looks.

7. A wind of rebellion

Leather plays an important role, especially in pants. A piece that can be diverted by combining it with a sweatshirt, a trench coat or a shirt. Opt for a straight cut, more modern.

It can also be worn as an overshirt, perfect with a close-fitting knit.

Another option: a “subtle dark”.

Opt for textured fabrics that convey a certain authenticity, and take it step by step. Start with a pair of trousers or a draped jacket, complemented with linen and other textured fabrics.

8. Selling the bear skin

Fur coats are a must.

If you have to give in, choose the simplest possible : a classic cut, a sober color, and relatively short hair.

Another solution is sheepskin.

Also, consider it as the only statement piece in your outfit (and keep in mind that a great piece will inevitably cost a lot).

9. Wrapped in his feelings

A minority but notable trend: a romantic wardrobe, decorated with pearls, ruffles and embroidery.

Not very suitable for everyday wear, it may perhaps accompany evening wear on rare occasions.

Otherwise, opt for delicate patterns or precious accessories such as a brooch to hang on a jacket...

Day #1 — Pragmatism and Pessimism

With the exception of AMI , you probably won't know any of the names scheduled today.

Two schools of thought clash. On one side, that of a wardrobe designed for almost every day . On the other, more obscure, if not even brutal, notes ...

1. An everyday uniform

Work jacket, bomber jacket, suit; Paris shows its plurality from the start.

However, the looks remain linked by a certain ease.

First, long coats or casual suits just right.

Then, denim, military references and workwear knits.

Sweatshirts…

…and shirts.

Whatever the style, designers design ready-to-use pieces . Clothes that, although distinguished by their details, ultimately remain outside of any trend.

In other words, what you already have in your closet can do the trick . Long live the essentials!

2. The dark side: between punk and dark

Have the Yellow Vests and social movements inspired designers?

From the anarchist to the traveler from a dystopian film, the gloomy climate of our society is displayed on the catwalks.

With large spikes and prints imitating a spray paint, we find certain codes of punk. If you are sensitive to this aesthetic, wait before asking your hairdresser for a neon green crest.

Instead, reach for a statement jacket or, for the more adventurous, leather pants — one of the season's key pieces, more versatile than it seems.

Another register: more sophisticated influences, straight out of a nuclear desert.

However, it will be difficult for you to adopt the full post-apocalyptic look. That said, this silhouette is interesting for its approach to volumes : we do not hesitate to rely solely on loose cuts.

At the beginning, the simplest thing is to focus on a single piece, around which you will embroider the outfit . For example, a coat or a hoodie.

Additionally, you can take a first step towards this style with faux-formal pieces, cut oversized in rough wools or textured linen.

Nothing will stop you from switching to the draped cape a little later...

Day #2 — Redefining Elegance, Reviving Romance

In a single day, big names like Valentino, trendy labels like Y/Project, and foreign designers such as Hed Mayner, a finalist for the 2019 LVMH prize, can come one after the other.

Continuing from yesterday, most of the looks are relatively simple, focusing on the notion of style rather than trend . Pieces that, although having their own style, remain easy to grasp.

Hype minute: Raf Simons had previously announced the release of a sneaker with innovative lines. In the end, it's just a boot with a rubber heel...

A wind of rebellion continues to rise. An ode to punk, between peaks, masks of Leigh Bowery and protest slogans.

At the same time, designers are revisiting the costume or deciding to play it romantic...

1. French elegance?

We have already mentioned it: after the hegemony of streetwear, the suit is on the rise.

While every capital city is trying to be naughty, Paris opts for a more measured approach. A combination of elegance and nonchalance, characterized by an oversized blazer and a turtleneck instead of a shirt.

The same goes for coats , which combine a traditional look with generous volumes.

Here and there, we also notice allusions to adventure. Hats, extra-large scarves and capes complete looks with a bohemian touch.

Unless you love the Gipsy Kings, don't overdo it: limit yourself to just one element, enough to give it some relief .

2. Dressed like Baudelaire

Sweetie, let's see if the rose on the blazer has bloomed...

Sewing a little poetry into this cruel world, labels articulate their vision around an aesthetic of sensitivity.

A bit abstract, it is expressed in particular by delicate patterns (often floral), fluid lines and light materials.

Pastel tones can also convey the same spirit. Wear with gray or navy to avoid any headaches.

Rarer, this kind of influence has the merit of being original, without overdoing it.

In any case, think about contrasts. For example, worn jeans, commando-soled shoes, a nylon bag, a leather jacket…

Whatever you want, as long as you introduce "raw" pieces to create balance.

Day #3 — Colors, Fur and Pearls

We are halfway there.

Classic suits and coats continue to have a cool edge, thanks to oversized cuts and shirts that are becoming rarer.

We are still being asked to indulge in lyrical flights of fancy ...

…or turn to leather pants , available in a wide variety.

In addition, we notice some new features .

Paris in turn began to use color, tried its hand at fur, and finished off its pieces with ornaments worthy of a goldsmith.

1. Tastes and colors...

As in Milan, the catwalks are overflowing with colours, all styles combined.

If orange and pink leave you feeling a little chilly, consider a classic color, but chosen in a more original shade : emerald green instead of fir green, purple versus burgundy, etc.

Patterns and prints are also a relevant option.

Let your desires run free: t-shirt, contrasting plaid pants, casual shirt or Americana knit, it's also an opportunity to have fun.

All in all, you know the principle: a single strong color, complemented by more sober shades. Gray and blue will then be your best allies.

2. Man vs. Wild

Make way for a typically wintery material: fur.

Avoid chapkas and other large scarves, which are too associated with “nostalgia for the USSR”.

While polarizing, the coat does have character. If it appeals to you, why not, as long as your environment allows it.

You will then have to choose it simple, both for its shape and its color, and always consider it as the only strong piece of your look.

A two-material jacket will remain easier to approach , whether the fur is on the collar or the reverse. On this subject, also think about the lined military parkas, so dear to Squarzi.

The longer the hair, the bolder the result. Shaved and sheared models will therefore be more comfortable to wear.

Think about it: a nice fur, even fake, costs a lot of money.

3. Shine brightly

Pearls, embroidery, sequins and rhinestones: amazing finishes complete certain pieces...

A phenomenon specific to Paris, like a nod to our craftsmanship, where we are immersed in details reminiscent of the codes of haute couture.

Sophisticated (too much?), this approach has nothing to do with everyday life. It is only intended for special occasions, and even then.

That said, you can take inspiration from it in small touches. For example, inserts highlighting the collar of a shirt, or a precious brooch pinned on a lapel...

Day #4 — Versatile workwear and hybrid gorpcore

What we saw yesterday is confirmed today.

The colors and patterns are there, sometimes so vivid that they almost burn our retinas.

Ancestral armor against the cold, the fur coat plants its claws on the catwalk...

...While we still choose to warm ourselves in the desert .

Delicate, precious finishes convey refinement (and richness) with pearls, lace and gilding.

In another genre, two types of silhouette appear: one is inspired by workwear, the other by the mountains...

1. Workwear at rest

Closer to the streets than to construction sites or battlefields, the famous style mixes with other trends.

First of all, casual chic.

Sailor sweaters are worn with tailored pants and shoes. As if to ennoble themselves, jackets are cut in noble materials such as calfskin or, again, fur.

Certainly further from its original spirit, this approach ultimately tends to enrich our looks by creating a mix of influences.

It will lend itself to elements of formal tradition, thus twisting classic outfits with ease.

Conversely, workwear can also go vintage, drawing in particular on the punk/grunge vein that is in vogue these days.

The stitches are fraying and getting holes, while we bring out the jeans/bomber/ranger combo of the London hooligan.

A strong look, which nevertheless remains tameable thanks to relatively neutral pieces elsewhere. Just try to leave your iron bar at home.

2. Parisian Gorpcore

A fashionista's word to define a style borrowing from the mountaineer/trekker register , "gorpcore" is clearly establishing itself as a leading trend.

On one side, a down jacket that has nothing to do with the blizzard anymore.

Whether you deprive it of quilting for a sensible look, or opt for a rebellious leather version, it demonstrates a desire to mix genres.

In other words, don't hesitate to take it out of its comfort zone , even if it means wearing it with a suit.

Less conventional, gorpcore also merges with futuristic notes, echoing the dystopian momentum mentioned a few days earlier.

A sophisticated aesthetic, to which we will give in sparingly as it will already dominate the whole. Moreover, it will be difficult to find these pieces outside of designer labels, and not to put your hand in your wallet...

Day #5 — Military fashion and subtle streetwear

I never thought I'd write this, but this season will remain the one that saw Jackie Chan take his first steps as a top model.

More seriously, the designers continue their exploration of gorpcore . A selection of elegant fleeces, down jackets that look like overcoats and sweaters that look like down jackets.

Workwear notes are distilled and combined with other styles , between chunky knits, checked cargo pants and denim safari jackets.

That said, we might well be seduced by the military influences and the "tamed down" streetwear presented today...

1. To arms, citizens...

Dressed in khaki and equipped with dozens of pockets, armed troops invade our wardrobes.

On the front line, cargo. Worked in several registers, from nylon to cotton canvas, we can also imagine it in wool flannel.

Versatile by nature, the more refined it is, the easier it will be to integrate it into your looks. Shirt, sweater, t-shirt, sweatshirt... No top can resist it.

In the same vein, other clothes are revisited, such as the jumpsuit. An original, but easy option. As for pumps, opt for boots or sneakers.

Furthermore, the emphasis is on jackets and coats , with colonel trench coats, bombers and parkas.

Ideally, look for plays on colors and materials for maximum relief. In any case, the classics will also work.

Unsurprisingly, techwear is getting involved. Water-repellent materials and heat-sealed seams make up raincoats and pants with a distinctive look.

You are free to push it to the limit with a full look, or to use it to contrast more traditional outfits....

2. Adult Streetwear

Faced with the general resurgence of interest in the suit, streetwear is maturing.

Its emblems are cut from noble materials . For example, a pair of tennis-striped joggers (which you can already find at a bunch of brands) or a leather hoodie.

Enough to create rich outfits , expressing a certain refinement without giving up urban origins.

They can also be given twisting details : baggy pants with pleats, stitched sweatshirts, printed, perforated, enhanced with a strap... In short, a little something extra.

Another alternative: mixing genres. You know the song: a hoodie worn with chinos (technical or not), a sweatshirt complementing tailored pants, a hood flattened over a collar with wide lapels, etc.

Don't forget the accessories. A simple cap, beanie, sunglasses or bag can always add a touch of personality to a look.

Even the tracksuit is becoming more mature. It can be found in minimalist versions or technical workwear.

Divisive, there is no real half-measure with this piece: you either love it (and accept it), or you hate it. In any case, it is currently undergoing a sort of rehabilitation which, if you ask me, is rather interesting...

Day #6 — A sleek silhouette

This last day is an almost total synthesis of the previous ones, therefore also taking up the ideas started yesterday.

On the one hand, the military style, which inspires a wide range of registers.

On the other hand, hybrid streetwear that gives pride of place to jogging, far from the stereotype that we may have of it.

Besides, our Parisian interlude ends on a pure note ...

Less is more...

In response to the logomania that has reigned in recent years, there is a renewed interest in an aesthetic without artifice.

We focus on the essentials. Blazers forgo their lapels and hide their buttons, while a ribbed tee and straight pants will be enough to create a balanced look.

More than ever, cuts and materials are essential: we will only see them.

The colors are neutral, sometimes going as far as full white. An exercise that we will abstain from, unless we have a wardrobe rich in textures and a strong style (or want not to go unnoticed).

Otherwise, opt for classic pieces without too many details (pockets, collar, etc.), for a simple but effective "minimalism"...