Houndstooth . That's what you say in English.
Otherwise in French, it's pied-de-poule. Nothing to do with it.
Or when it is smaller, flea's foot. Or barnyard if it is bigger.
Otherwise, in English, we would say puppytooth . Puppy tooth.
It's pretty and it holds up.
I want to talk about the pattern that we see a lot at the moment, an old pattern that would have seen the light of day at the beginning of the 20th century. A pattern that I particularly like and it is precisely the link that unites my three nuggets of the day .
Come on, I'll show you.
A Suitsupply coat
1. Why this brand?
To confess: I am not a huge Suitsupply fan. Sorry David, I know this is a shock to you but I can't live a lie anymore. It's beyond my strength now.
This assumed touch of flashiness often bothers me. I find lookbooks too "look at me" and that's a problem. It seems to me that discretion must be at the service of elegance. Always.
Good.
That said, from time to time, I let myself be surprised by the brand. Because, with its colossal strike force, Suitsupply indulges from time to time in producing some crazy things. I'm thinking in particular of the gurkha shorts from this summer on which I didn't expect it at all.
Suitsupply is an accessible gateway when you start to get interested in sartorial clothing, with a rich offer and affordable prices. But with this coat, we see that soft tailoring is also well represented at their place.
2. Why this piece?
I'm obsessed with the houndstooth pattern at the moment. I can't say why. It's in the air, I have to say. The pattern is found in many players in the field and there's a kind of hype that hovers around this pattern.
Frankly, I'm not complaining: when you give a man something to have a little fun with regarding his clothes, I'm for it. On principle. Except when it defies the laws of common sense. But I'm always on the side of creativity. The fashion police shouldn't exist.
This is a grey and off-white houndstooth and I think it has a lot of charm. I would have preferred this fabric to be used to make a Balmacaan Coat, but this trench coat shape isn't bad either.
Example of a Balmacaan Coat from Berg&Berg right here:
The fabric comes from Ferla, a weaver that we know well at BonneGueule. And we know that their fabrics are subtle and full of that irregularity that we love so much, full of that imprecision that makes everything more authentic. Here, moreover, the composition is tempting: 62% wool, 28% alpaca and 10% polyamide .
The way the piece is worn by the model is typically the kind of outfit I would like to do. Something "Cucinelliesque". Playing on grays, whites, browns.
I'm just a little afraid of the total length, which I would have liked to be longer but, you never know, maybe it's the model's endless legs that give the impression of shortness.
But I doubt it.
An Oliver Spencer suit
1. Why this brand?
Oliver Spencer has always caught my eye for as long as I can remember. And yet, I have few pieces from the brand, many of which are above my budget.
Actually, I only have one: a navy blue vest with white speckles that I'm wearing here:
But I wish I had so many more!
Because the brand is very much in tune with its time and I particularly appreciate its vision of the suit. Or rather, a new vision of the suit, generally worn without a tie, made in soft materials, rather with discreet patterns, in comfortable cuts with details borrowed from the heritage universe.
But not only suits: I like casual shirts with officer or club collars , carrot pants, flowing coats that are easy to wear.
Everything feels comfortable and I think it's an ideal wardrobe for a man today. A wardrobe that draws on the sartorial tradition but simplifies the stylistic statement, makes it accessible, makes it relaxed.
I believe that this is an intelligent positioning in a context where the suit is losing ground, as professional and social circles require wearing it less and less and it is being replaced, for the better in my opinion, by a wear for pure pleasure.
I place Oliver Spencer in the same environment as Officine Générale for example, or even Ami Paris .
2. Why this costume?
Beyond my houndstooth period, I am also thinking more and more about getting myself some costumes for everyday life .
But not suits as we spontaneously think, the ones we wear with a tie and a shirt. No, rather casual suits, ensembles, but very little formal, like:
- A camel, burgundy or green corduroy suit, like you find at Drake's for example.
- A three-piece suit in herringbone tweed or flannel
- A moleskin work jacket and matching pants (from Lane Forty Five for example).
In short , casual suits to wear for mornings when your creativity is lacking . It's easy, the top and bottom go together, all the time and no matter what. In winter with a turtleneck and boots. In summer with canvas sneakers and a t-shirt.
And roll youth.
The brand lent me the jacket.
With a little distortion of the image, because it was a giant who took my picture. A giant named David.
It's a little short for my taste and I would rather wear it with high-waisted pants. In the store, I would have asked to go up a size. Maybe this is the one I need.
For the rest, I appreciate the nice curve, the finish of the sleeves like a work jacket, the fact that it is a fake three-button.
Also, up close, she is really beautiful.
A slight ripple on the shoulder: maybe it's a little tight for me.
The pants, however, were not available and it's a shame because I would have liked to try this loose tapered cut, with this pocket on the left leg only which gives a pleasant asymmetry.
Exactly the kind of cut I like, with enough leg opening to have fun with shoes. And of course, the playfulness of these pants is largely ensured by the pattern.
The great thing about this suit is that you can mix and match it. It's actually the easiest way to wear it.
To top it all off, everything is very well done with an unlined and braided jacket interior, made in Portugal and a product made of 50% ecological wool.
Yes, you could say that I am seductive.
A pair of Yuketen boots (sold out except for a 7US)
Yes, sorry, I know! It's a bit of a jerk to put these beautiful boots under your nose and tell you that there are no more.
This is a gem I found too late. As there are so many. And I will never stop harassing those who have them to push them to sell them to me for a handful of dollars. May God be my witness!
So, I'm not going to dwell on it, but it's made in the United States, with Horween leather and a Vibram sole.
The yellow tongue captivates me. This houndstooth pattern overwhelms me. This boot/loafers shape blows me away.
I am under the spell.
Too bad I'm not a US 7.
You maybe?
