Disclaimer: This article is a follow-up to Milone's guide to Outlier .
As a reminder, casual techwear refers to pieces with a “classic” appearance, perfectly suited to everyday and urban wear, but which are made from technical materials (water-repellent, breathable fabric, etc.).
And since they are technical materials, they are therefore synthetic. There had to be an exception to the rule. 😉
Presentation of the Outlier brand
History of the Outlier brand
It all started with two New Yorkers who were crazy about bikes (before they even met), Abel and Tyler: the first was tired of wearing pants that tore when he pedaled on the Brooklyn Bridge , while the second was tired of having to change his shirt when arriving at work, after a 20-minute bike ride.
Working separately to bring to fruition their respective project of pants and shirt suitable for cycling, they meet by chance while working in the same coffee shop ... and their boss tells them that they do almost the same thing outside of working hours.
This is how the Outlier brand was born.
The two friends then settled in Brooklyn with a single motto: to make clothes to “feel good, fresh and free”.
Abel says "Abe" on the left, and Tyler on the right, the two founders of Outlier.
How to create technical pants? Quite simply by chance.
" Our dream is to create the Levi's 501 or the Burberry trench of our time. These are originally pieces designed for hell: working in the mines and going to war. These are pieces that we don't wear. you don't need to think twice before wearing them ," says Abel.
This idea is reinforced by the brand's slogan, " future of clothing". The two designers want to shake up the codes and stand out in the current landscape of men's fashion, by offering a compromise between design and functionality/practicality. Moreover, “Outlier” can be translated as the idea of being on the fringes of what is usually done.
For its launch, the brand found a small Swiss manufacturer specializing in technical fabrics. With a budget of €15,000 and only 25 pieces (I specify, 25 pieces of the same model), the first collection was created. Since then, Outlier hasn't wavered from its goal of "liberating the body and developing the way we move."
Here is the OGS model, the brand's first piece (although slightly readapted since then). For once, the setting isn't just a setting: these pants would actually hold up in the Grand Canyon.
Abe and Tyler both come from fairly conventional backgrounds (graphic design and media respectively), it seemed essential to them that technical clothing could not only be suitable for everyday use, but also for professional use.
We therefore find a casual offer with, among others, chinos, hoodies and shorts, to which we must add a more formal line .
This consists of blazers, pants, shirts, and you can even find one or two coats. It is on this part of the range that the test will focus.
Futureworks techwear pants test (by Geoffrey)
Let's start with the Futureworks pants . With this piece, Outlier wanted to find the right balance between technicality and urban design. We are therefore facing a pair of Cordura pants, slightly stretchy. Although it is 97% nylon, it is light, breathable and more durable than traditional cotton .
I'm wearing a BonneGueule chambray shirt, a Melinda Gloss sweater, Persol glasses, a Drome jacket, Outlier pants and Nike x Undercover. The color of the pants poses no difficulty!
In use, it is very pleasant to wear and from a design point of view, it has the advantage of having a fairly neutral cut and very easy to insert into an outfit. With its 21 cm leg opening, we are definitely facing a classic cut, which will easily suit more sober styles.
In town, these are very comfortable pants thanks to their stretch, even when it's hot . I particularly enjoy wearing it in bad weather when I'm cycling or scootering (nothing more annoying than rain running off your water-repellent parka and ultimately wetting your pants).
For me who has thighs that are often cramped in slightly slim pants, I am very satisfied with this cut.
The break point to reinforce the pocket is very clean.
In the mountains, the pants are light and offer great freedom of movement . Another significant advantage in situations of effort: these pants dry very quickly. I of course tested it in real conditions!
And as a reminder: Cordura is a military fiber renowned for its strength, it is found for example in reinforcing the bottom of mountaineering pants to prevent the pants from tearing due to crampons.
Pants tested this summer in the Vanoise park, on a hike with the awesome team from Axome (Nicolet and Nicolas, who took the photos), which is our Web agency. I'm wearing a Galeries Lafayette hat, a Fjällräven parka , the Outlier pants, a bag and Quechua hiking shoes (which I'm very happy with).
The pants resist abrasion well, which is important when crossing scree or brambles in the mountains. Quechua cap and IceBreaker t-shirt . And here is Nicolet from Axome in the photo, one of the people who works technically on BonneGueule when it doesn't count the chamois.
These pants are therefore a great success. And at $125 (a little less than €100), I find its price very acceptable. Clearly the type of pieces that I would like to eventually introduce into the BonneGueule line... (yeah, I'm a little jealous of Outlier haha).
Test of The Climbers technical pants by Geoffrey
Let's continue with The Climbers pants , which promise a fitted cut, a water-repellent, stretchy, and slightly breathable fabric.
Well let's raise the suspense, these pants didn't live up to their name, because you can literally go climbing with them, as the four-way stretch fabric is so pleasant:
Don't worry, it's designed to! (don't do this in public, however, otherwise it will erode your credibility). I'm wearing a BonneGueule shirt, a Drome jacket, The Climbers pants , and Lanvin sneakers.
Despite a well-fitted cut, these pants are extremely pleasant for cycling , you have very appreciable freedom of movement. The product is truly accomplished and keeps its promises.
With my good legs, I would have appreciated the pants being less fitted, but it's still acceptable.
I particularly like the color of these pants, a sort of matte, almost powdery indigo. Despite its great technicality, we really don't have the impression of being faced with techwear.
The cut would suit Benoît better who has thinner legs. But if you are looking for technical pants, you have what you need, because this slim cut prevents you from damaging the pants while pedaling.
These pants confirm my excellent impression of the brand. It is certainly more expensive, selling for $198 (approx. €155), but it remains very reasonable. Outlier is clearly one of my favorites of 2014 .
Bonus 1: how to test the water repellency of pants?
Because sometimes we get bored...
Step 1: pour water or pastis on his pants.
Step 2: happily realize that the water does not enter and slides on the surface.
Step 3: dust off the droplets without pressing on them (it's water-repellent, not waterproof).
Bonus 2: restore water repellency to technical clothing
As we have already said, nothing is easier than restoring water-repellent properties to clothing. Simply use a natural detergent in the washing machine, and then put the pants in the dryer at a moderate temperature (I said moderate, I'm watching you).
But with a little ironing, lots of steam and above all without overheating (you shouldn't cry if you destroy the polyester), you also get good results.
Step 4: tell yourself that life is beautiful.
Review of the Air Forged Oxford shirt by Benoit
For this last summer shoot, I decided to keep my sunglasses on to annoy Geoffrey. More seriously, I'm wearing an Outlier shirt, a Hédus denim jacket , Lanvin sneakers and very nice Vicomte A chinos (yes, yes, you read that right).
The main feature of this " Air Forged " shirt is the shoulder design, which allows new freedom of movement. Abe and Tyler lamented the lack of comfort in holding a handlebar when riding a bike. They therefore wanted a well-cut shirt, but with ease, and without using stretch fabric.
In fact, the trick is to remove the armpit seam at the back, so that part of the sleeve becomes one with the back:
The Outlier Pivot Sleeve in action!
For nudging, that works too. But less for ironing.
In fact, and in my experience, the system works quite well, there is a real ease, I realized this when the DJ shouted to the crowd " haaaaannnd's uuup ! ". For me, this is a very good point.
Note from Geoffrey: I will post videos that Benoît hates every time he wears glasses on a shoot.
In terms of the cut, I was a little defensive, because American clothing brands - technical ones at that - are not known for their scalpel cuts. However, I have absolutely nothing to complain about: the shoulders, the length, the fit, everything is well done.
Contrary to my ironing skills, the length of the shirt lends itself very well to casual wear. Chinos Vicomte A.
The shoulder is impeccable I tell you!
By the way, to choose the right size, I did exactly what we recommend: I looked at the measurement table, and I compared it with a shirt that fits me very well. Upon receipt, size M was impeccable:
A nice sizing guide to choosing the right size! You no longer have excuses 😉
Finally, without being made of Gore-Tex either, the shirt has slightly water-repellent properties (more than a classic poplin in any case).
And it also dries faster than a classic cotton fabric, I noticed this when drying my line. This has a very practical effect: it is a fabric which is less impregnated with perspiration odors than usual shirt fabrics.
Outlier called this fabric the “Air Forged Oxford.” Visually, it has a marked grain. For me who likes this kind of slightly textured fabric, it's all good.
The famous Air Forged Oxford is a really easy to wear fabric. The buttons are corozo.
Finally, without realizing it, they invented the ultimate evening shirt: comfort on the arms for dancing, a fabric that dries quickly and has little odor retention, oxford and a button-down collar for a dressy but casual look. All that's missing is the integrated deodorant, and we'll really be in the future.
Bonus: Abe's Outlier conference
And if you want to discover more about the creation and organization of Outlier, I invite you to watch this conference. It's funny, interesting... but in English.
