It's go again !
Today in “Very Well Dressed” , we are going to talk about the shoulder and where it should fall.
Does the famous “the shoulder seam must stop at the acromion” mean anything to you?
This is advice that we hear almost everywhere, and I myself passed it on for a long time without asking too many questions, taking it at face value.
But over time, I realized that it was more complicated than that...
1. THE FRAMEWORK OF YOUR OUTFIT
But before making a big deal out of it, you might be interested in knowing why it's so important.
This is for two main reasons:
- Firstly, everything suggests that it has always been an important male visual attribute . Whether you look at representations in pop culture or at studies on attraction based on physique (yes, yes!), there is no shortage of evidence: men want shoulders that stand out, therefore, it is not uncommon for this to be reflected in clothing silhouettes.
OK, I'm being cliché here... But at least it's a clear example!
- Second, a shoulder that falls correctly will make the rest of the garment look better in other areas.
© COS
What separates this “oversized” COS jacket from a “normal” jacket that is simply too big? The lengths, and above all, two or three centimeters of placement on the shoulder seam.
Now, that doesn't mean that you should try to bulk out your shoulders as much as possible via your clothes...
Just: it's important, the effect it has on your clothing figure deserves your attention.
2. WHAT IS A SHOULDER?
You may have noticed in my previous episodes: I don't hesitate to use anatomy to explain what makes a cut work.
When we talk about cutting, what often limits understanding is the lack of precision of the words.
Because when you say "shoulder", you encompass very distinct elements of the body, and above all: you amalgamate the muscles and bones.
Example: you can appear very broad in the shoulders while having very few muscles if you have long collarbones.
And where it interests us is that we don't dress someone with a narrow frame and big muscles in the same way as a skinny person with wide bones.
3. THE SECRET OF BALANCE
So here is the crux of the matter: depending on where the shoulder falls , we will give the impression that certain areas are wider , take up "more space", and others less.
For example, a more forward shoulder can reduce the visual volume of the arm, increase the apparent width of the middle and trapezius, and reduce the chest.
It is therefore a tool that helps harmonize the appearance of the body and gives nature a little help where it needs it 😉
We will therefore see three variations compared to a “standard” shirt design: the higher shoulder, the lower shoulder, and the downright “dropped” shoulder.
4. THE FAMOUS RAGLAN SHOULDER
Once you understand the principle and how the demarcations of the seams on a garment influence our perception of the body, it will be interesting to see how to apply it to particular cases.
For example (and I wear it in the video) the “raglan” shoulder or sleeve.
5. THE DIFFERENCE ACCORDING TO THE PARTS
Finally, we will remember that these same principles do not apply in quite the same way depending on whether we are talking about the shoulder of a jacket, a shirt, a knit or a coat.
© Suitsupply
The shoulder of this Suitsupply overcoat is high for a coat, but would be normal for a shirt.
Good viewing !
PS: IN THIS VIDEO, I WEAR...
- A BonneGueule raglan cashmere sweater. (The green !)
- And that’s it 🙂
