“We are what we wear”: the interview with Tanmay Saxena, founder of LaneFortyfive – Déclic #10

How did I discover the brand? My partner is a photographer and she loves the images as much as the clothes of founder Tanmay Saxena . I confirm: the few LaneFortyfive pieces in her wardrobe are decidedly unique.

So here we are, each with our passion for something English that ends in 45: hers is the unisex clothing brand LaneFortyfive, mine is the pastoral ambient group Epic45 . It is an anecdote which did not fail to amuse the person concerned.

Curious ? We obviously needed to know more, hence this new and very spontaneous Déclic meeting, carried out via Skype between London and Paris.

FIRST MEMORIES AND INDIAN TRADITION

This is a rather disturbing recurrence: most of our Déclic meetings involve a quest for meaning at some point along the way . Whether acquired very young or developed along the way, it is always a question of a passion before even tackling the harsh laws of commerce. Tan's story with clothing begins with a long journey:

“I was born in India and moved to the UK 15 years ago now. If I think back to my childhood and what clothing meant to me then, I especially think of a tradition that was current in my small hometown: if you're not very rich, you don't buy designer clothes. Instead, you will buy fabric and go to a tailor for the tailoring. It is much cheaper in India to do it this way.

This is the opposite of what happens in other parts of the world, where you can buy branded clothes very cheaply. Buying fabric and going to the tailor box will cost you perhaps ten times more. This tradition has stayed with me. Growing up, I still bought designer clothes but I didn't find my own style until quite late .

It's quite linked to my way of life, to the codes of society. I went to school, got a degree in computer science, did graduate studies in management and finance, etc. I was once offered a job in the UK for a year. Everything changed for me at that moment. I left and then decided to stay and settle down. There was no question of launching my clothing brand or working in the creative field yet. »

VINTAGE AWARENESS AND PASSION

For Tan, the true discovery of clothing is made through the old, away from the contemporary textile industry . What was then just a weekend activity will little by little open up a new path for him:

“From 2012-2013, I started collecting small vintage pieces and offering them at flea markets. I have traveled quite a bit, visited many flea markets across Europe: Paris, Berlin, Krakow, many other places. I thus built up a small collection of curiosities , which I sold or exchanged at the London flea markets on weekends. During the week, I worked for a bank.

It was there, at flea markets, that I met some really creative people. This is my first experience – I didn't know what a creative community like London could be. That's also when I started to find my own style , what I liked to wear .

I discovered the powerful connection between a person's psychology, their personality and the clothes they wear. Now I can very easily say: we are what we wear and we wear what we are . That being said, it took me a long time to find my style.

I was 30 when I went to an art gallery for the first time . Growing up in the countryside in India, I never had the chance or the opportunity to do this. And when I came to the UK, all I did was work. I was creative but it was not yet expressed in a concrete way. Maybe I was lucky. Or maybe we make our own luck.

I always wanted to grow from within . I strive to get out of my comfort zone. If I can learn something from it, I'm very happy . That’s what happened when I started finding my own style and clothes.

I didn't like going to a chain store, buying something and then wearing it day after day knowing that the world also identifies you by your clothes and that thousands of people are wearing the exact same thing. . »

THE CLICK AND CREATION OF LANEFORTYFIVE

Something is brewing at Tan. But from awakening to realization, there is still a story of time that passes and knowledge that is acquired on the job . This is something we find in all curious people:

“The idea that I could have my own brand wasn’t there yet. It was a little later, around 2014-2015, that I realized I could do it. I read a few books, watched a lot of YouTube channels on sewing basics and pattern cutting . And then one day, I made a few jackets myself. It took me about three weeks to make two jackets . They were obviously very poorly made!

I still have one in my wardrobe, it's one of my very first pieces. Little by little, I thought about doing this a little more seriously: finding a name, thinking about what I wanted to wear, etc. My philosophy was simple: make clothes that I can wear myself, with pleasure . For a whole bunch of reasons, I didn't recognize myself in the clothes that existed on the market. This is how LaneFortyfive started: I officially launched the brand in 2016 while working a day job on the side.

One of my first distributors was from Japan. That’s when I realized that maybe some people appreciated my work. So I started giving him more attention, more time. I was already doing it before, but things were starting to progress well.

So I thought it was time for me to take the plunge and quit my job at the bank, which certainly gave me money but didn't make me happy. I left my job in 2017-2018 and now work full-time on LaneFortyfive.

I started on my own. Then I surrounded myself with a few local tailors because no one would have bought what I was making as it was. I'm good at imagining things, somehow transferring my ideas onto paper but I needed someone competent and professional to make the clothes.

Today, there is a team of around 12 tailors. They come and go on the team, depending on the workload. They are all independent. What I take care of are the concepts, the designs, the fabric research, the photography and the video: it's one and the same creative voice that ties it all together . »

THE DIFFERENCE: CLOTHES, BUT NOT ONLY

We highlighted it above: you will find dozens of new brands launching around the world. Many of them follow fashions and trends and ultimately offer more or less the same thing. So what makes us stand out from the crowd?

“I didn't study fashion and I didn't set out to just sell clothes per se. I do sell clothes but I have the same emotional investment in the way they are presented.

If we love a piece of clothing, I think we should also love the philosophy behind it . When we wear it, it will always be more than just a piece of fabric. Without it, it wouldn't work for me and I probably wouldn't do this job. I can't make a garment if I don't have a good understanding of why and the story behind it.

There are so many people making clothes that I inherently don't need to make clothes. Why do something that everyone else does? I don’t intentionally do it differently.

My work is the way it is because I come from a different place, I don't have a fashion background. Maybe I have this freedom. I give myself the opportunity to create different things, with a somewhat childish freedom. »

WIDE SPACES, A SOURCE OF INSPIRATION

Tan lives in London. However, you won't see that much gray concrete on LaneFortyfive's looks. It hovers over his films and images like a newfound freedom and a desire for wide open spaces :

“I do shoots in the city from time to time, but when we go out, we find magnificent, wide, open spaces. The imagination does not come up against a wall there as is literally the case in the city. When you are on a beach or in a field, you can play with the sky, the earth, the colors – it frees my imagination .

For example, if you visualize a child in a field, the first thing he will do will be to run for no reason, until he gets a little tired and regains his “sanity” a little. I think this is what we all feel a little bit these days after living in cities. As soon as we find space, we “run” everywhere . I think the same thing happens with my imagination. »

INCLUSIVITY AND THE TAILOR SPIRIT

One of the particularities of LaneFortyfive is that the clothes are made according to each customer. You can choose the fabric or certain details such as the color of the buttons. It’s a nice goodbye to the world of ready-to-wear and to the sometimes oversized ego of fashion :

“People who design clothes may be too obsessed or possessive about their work . It now seems normal that designers produce a specific garment and then there is no room for customization. I don't particularly like the idea of ​​50/50 but I always leave a little room for the person opposite to feel part of it .

For example, if you give the opportunity to choose a button or the fabric then the person will be part of the garment. She will wear it with more joy, feeling like she was part of the process, that the garment was made for her. For me, this is a process as important as it is inclusive . »

When we tell him that in a certain way he is joining the original spirit of the tailor, with clothes produced on demand and a more sober economy, less focused on quantity, he acquiesces:

" It's good for the planet. We buy less. We value more . And then by buying from me, you become part of the history of clothing. It's not like a piece that sits on the shelf in a store, that wasn't made for you.

When you buy something from LaneFortyfive it is made especially for you because it simply didn't exist before. We place the order, we have the possibility to choose the fabric, the buttons, etc.

We thus feel more connected to the garment and it also helps in a certain way to preserve it over time rather than throwing it away as often happens with fast fashion. Inclusivity is certainly the key to moving forward , especially in the times we live in. »

UNISEX FASHION, YES BUT...

Among the other particularities of the LaneFortyfive collections, the fact that the clothes are unisex. If the term is definitely in vogue, this does not mean Tan has abandoned the style:

“Actually, people don't always know this, but the very first collection I worked on was made with only men. On the day of the shoot, the four models came and I realized from the first minutes that something was missing, that it wasn't natural.

There were no women on set! So I thought it sounded fake and canceled the shoot. Then I thought about it, I read a lot and it opened my eyes as I read more about male and female anatomy.

I then understood that I had to make clothes that were for everyone . That doesn't mean that they can't be adapted to women's body shapes, but in any case there are no more specific changes to accentuate or sexualize certain parts of the body.

If someone orders pants, we always ask if they are for a man or a woman. According to the basics of anatomy, the waist-to-hip ratio for men and women is completely different. I don't want everyone to walk in the same block of rectangular pants, but on the contrary that they fit everyone well.

Also, when we talk about unisex clothing, it means that we are ready to give it a shape that best suits everyone. But it remains unisex. I'm not at all interested in the idea of ​​making straight pipe pants that can fit everyone. We arrange so that it can fit everyone, but again not in a sexualized way. »

THE STYLE, THE FABRIC OR THE CUT?

This was one of Nicolò's lines of thought in Sapristi . What does the LaneFortyfive designer think? He brushes the question aside, as if the main thing was definitely elsewhere.

“We could make a pie chart to see what is most important and what is not. But in the end, what matters is that the clothes make you feel good . If you are happy in what you wear, then you will do happy things in your life and this will reflect not only on you but also on the people around you. »

FAVORITE MATERIALS AND PERSONAL WARDROBE

What materials does Tan use for her clothes? And what can you find in your wardrobe? When we question him on these subjects, we discover that the two are closely linked:

“My customers are very sensitive to the fact that the fabrics are of responsible origin. If there's too much polyester or plastic, it's just not good for the skin, not good for the planet. Most of the time I use sustainable fabrics made from natural fibers which are sourced from the UK .

But if I ever travel, I always spend half a day beforehand to do some research on local culture and fabrics, local workshops and artisans who make particular things, etc.

Even if I can only bring ten meters of fabric in my suitcase, it's great because I can make five pieces with it. “Keep it small” has its advantages. There are fewer effects on everything but we still produce beautiful things that people can look at and enjoy .

Linen has always been the main fabric for me . It is so nice. Recently, I've been really into moleskin. I'm actually wearing moleskin pants right now and they've been following me everywhere for six months now.

I actually have a very small wardrobe: three pairs of pants, five t-shirts, a few jackets and that's about it. I still have to buy t-shirts from brands I like because I haven't started making my own yet. But overall, I only wear clothes that I created.

That’s actually why I make clothes: I didn’t like the clothes that a lot of other brands were making. It works well, it's like a permanent search. I wear my own clothes, I get to know them better, more and more. This allows me to progress .

It's also something special to wear your own clothes . For example when I'm walking around and people ask me where my pants come from. “Oh it’s from a friend of mine! » Sometimes they'll look on Instagram and realize it's just me.

Moleskin is so soft and pleasant to the touch and to wear. Before moleskin, I wore a lot of corduroy because it's also soft to the touch. Linen also becomes soft and very beautiful after a few washes. It's very natural, perfect to wear on summer days.

I know people who wear linen all year round , even in countries like England where it is very cold in winter: they layer them, or put thermal clothing on as a first layer, then linen on top. . »

FASHION AND ITS INFLUENCES

Can we create clothes without taking inspiration from others? For Tan, the question does not really arise. His work was born precisely because he could not find what he wanted for his style elsewhere:

“I am not consciously influenced by other brands . I don't subscribe to any fashion magazines. But I subscribe to a nice magazine called Holiday. In each issue they choose a city or country and the entire issue is based on the chosen city or country.

I started reading it religiously during confinement, because we couldn't go on vacation. It was my escape. When you read this magazine cover to cover, it's like you're traveling to this place.

I am not inspired by fashion but rather by photography, poetry, films or music . I have friends who keep suggesting I go take a look at fashion designers' old archive work.

If I discover something by accident in a film, it's different. But I don't want to consciously take inspiration from fashion designers because that doesn't make sense to me .

This is why I have never collaborated with another designer. If I had to collaborate, it would be more with a musician or a painter… The artistic discipline would be different. That being said, there are plenty of things we can't escape these days. If you are on Instagram and you have a clothing brand, Instagram is constantly suggesting other brands to you. Whereas to get inspired, you just need to go outside for a walk .

I don't ride a bike because I'm always thinking or observing. Even if I walk on a road that I walk every day, I always look at what is happening . I won't survive five minutes on a bike, I'll go under the bus! My mind is always elsewhere, so I prefer to walk and observe what surrounds me. You never know where an idea comes from. »

LANEFORTYFIVE: A NAME HALFWAY BETWEEN DREAM AND REALITY

You may be wondering where the brand name comes from? As is often the case, it is a mixture of imagination and proximity on which many people have “cracked their teeth”, not without a certain humor. Tan confirms:

“Some people think it’s my address, others think my real name is Lane. “Hello Lane!” » "Of course, I'm Mr. Fortyfive!" ". Actually, when I started thinking about the brand, I had this image in my head where I imagined four or five people wearing the clothes and standing in a lane with no traffic or people.

They were just standing there on a hot afternoon and talking to each other. The photo was taken from a street corner so we see them close to the camera, with the track in the background. So I had this image in mind but a route must have a name or a number and I couldn't decide.

Then in 2015, I had a back injury. I had to take rest for a month. It was at this time, while I had to stay in bed and was working from home, that I did all the background work around the brand, on my laptop.

What happened with my injury is linked to my lumbar vertebrae, number 4 and number 5. L4 and L5 are therefore the story of my back, plus the path: it became LaneFortyfive . »

“ANOTHER GREEN WORLD”: FROM BRIAN ENO TO ECO-RESPONSIBILITY

During the exchange, I come to talk about the album “Another Green World” by Brian Eno - Tan is not indifferent to music, as you will see later. But since we're in the green, let's point out that LaneFortyfive thinks about ecology and sustainable development.

If the environment and eco-responsibility are at the heart of the challenges of the textile sector , it is still difficult to distinguish the sincerity of communication among fashion players. Tan has his own idea on the issue of current greenwashing:

“ Clothing is a second skin . It should not only be beautiful to look at from the outside but also from the inside. It's our skin, after all. Of course, not everyone sees our skin. What we see is just the clothes we wear.

This second skin defines your personality, what you represent. If someone wears fur or leather, it has an environmental cost in one way or another. But for all that, we all have our tricks, our vices: we must balance our scales .

For my part, I like to do things slowly , because it allows me to spend more time and understand them better. We have seen in recent decades that hurrying is not the answer to everything . Whether it's living, loving or doing things.

Perhaps you've heard of what many therapists and psychologists suggest to people going through a difficult phase and that has to do with facial muscles? If you're not happy, simply sitting down somewhere and pretending to smile tends to improve your mood significantly .

I think even if a lot of brands even temporarily try to be sustainable, maybe it will lead to a change in the same way. It's much easier to be sustainable when you're a small brand . But if it's a brand that's been in business for two, three, four decades, I can understand that it's difficult to suddenly become completely sustainable.

It's much easier for a new brand to start sustainably. Or even for a relatively new brand to modify its production process and make small changes. You can't be 100% sustainable - it's simply impossible . But we can choose our materials and consciously use less and less plastic .

For centuries, we have only taken without giving back enough in return. So I think it's a good thing from now on to give back what we take, or at least try to minimize the damage we can do in the future. »

LEARNING AND PHOTOGRAPHY

Tan is the self-taught type. He therefore did not follow any studies or private lessons to learn about clothing or photography. His greatest teacher: ultimately these are his own mistakes. He explains:

“I was never very excited about the idea of ​​sitting in a classroom and learning like that. Amazingly, my mother was a teacher for 50 years. I wasn't really cut out for this very structured way of learning things. I learn in my own way. This includes a lot of what we could call “impurities” and which I call “a natural style signature”.

The photographs I take are very, very far from the professional level. The lighting is not perfect. Sometimes, some people will even find it not very beautiful. But it is for me. So I take it, and I take it out as is.

I have n't read much about taking photos . In fact, the first time I bought a camera, I had to ask a photographer friend what I should buy and how the lenses worked. Until five years ago, I didn't even know what a wide angle lens was and what to use for portraits or close-ups!

I just read the basics, made a lot of mistakes and learned that way. I think this is the best way to get something natural . There are young people who have studied photography and are struggling to find a place in the fashion world who sometimes ask me for advice.

I can't: what works for me may not work for someone else . I can explain my work, my intentions and maybe if they try to do the same it will help them find their way.

But in my opinion, the best advice is to go outside and take photos like you've never tried before. If we always do the same thing, nothing will really change. To achieve something different, you have to do things differently and take risks .”

MUSIC, INSPIRATION AND ALDOUS HARDING

This is the common thread of our Pochette format: music. She's never far from LaneFortyfive. The proof with this little anecdote that Tan gives us, to conclude:

“There's a musician I've been following for a while, she's from New Zealand and her name is Aldous Harding. I have interacted with her from time to time over the last two years.

She is not very talkative and you can get a sense of her personality if you read one of her interviews. She is very measured when it comes to speaking. I created a few pieces for her, which I sent to her. Usually, when you send pretty clothes to someone, the person comes back to you very quickly “I love the clothes, they are very beautiful” etc.

In this case, Aldous Harding received the clothes and then there was silence for about two months. Then she sent me a message via Instagram that just said, “Thank you.” Time will tell if she will wear the clothes, if she likes them or not.

When I offered to make her some clothes, she gave me her measurements and wanted to pay me for my work. I told her that she was already contributing: when I work, her music accompanies me , she cannot contribute more than that. »