Our exceptional shirt with “hand” finishes made in Italy

Notre exceptionnelle chemise aux finitions « main» made in Italy

Psssst: this shirt is already available here, on our e-shop and in our stores in Paris, Lyon, Bordeaux and Nantes!

After our pants in collaboration with Informale, here's another piece that I couldn't wait to present to you: our white shirt made in Naples, with six hand finishes, and in cotton/linen.

This is by far the most luxurious and refined shirt we're featuring today, and I hope you love it as much as I do.

Basically, we wanted to offer a shirt for special occasions with our suits, a shirt with attention to detail, and our passion for finishes and fabrics with texture. I've been wanting to bring the great thrill of the Neapolitan shirt for a long time, and let's see the history of this shirt in detail!

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We thank Mattia who is in front of the lens! Nozze pants.

ON WHICH OCCASIONS SHOULD YOU WEAR THIS SHIRT?

I wanted to make this shirt for those who want to “mark the occasion” for unique life moments. Marriages are obviously concerned, but not only that.

I'm thinking, for example, of those who like to be well dressed to go to a beautiful restaurant, for a date with their soul mate, or for a slightly dressy summer evening.

In short, it's a shirt to wear in the moments that matter most to you.

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We'll come back to this, but I really wanted a collar that fell well under the jackets of your suits, even without a tie! Nozze pants and jacket.

WHO IS THIS SHIRT FOR?

With this shirt, I wanted us to speak to two types of people:

Those who are sensitive to artisanal know-how, who appreciate beautiful objects, who are curious, but who have not yet had the opportunity to try on a shirt of such quality.

And “connoisseur” people, who understand and appreciate this type of piece and who simply want to treat themselves for a special occasion!

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Where you can wear it to simply enjoy the present moment…

VERY LUXURIOUS FINISHES FROM “MADE IN NAPOLI”

We'll start with the most "spectacular": the hand finishing of this shirt made in Naples.

They are the signature of this shirt and give a lot of soul to this piece, in the greatest art of Italian shirtmaking.

SHOULDERS FOLDED BY HAND

It's the most visible finish, and it's the one that immediately caught my eye when, over ten years ago, I first saw shirts of such quality.

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Yes, the sewing stitches, even if they are barely visible, are there! They surround the entire shoulder.

If you look at the inside of the shirt, at the shoulder, you will be able to see all the hand stitches.

This avoids having a seam line on the shoulder, and you can barely see the small hand stitches, for a very "pure" appearance.

THE FLAP OF THE SHOULDER TO HAND ASSEMBLY

This is the seam that runs from your neck to your shoulder. It's also handmade, and without a jacket on your shoulders, you'll see a nice line of stitches.

I would like you to look carefully at this photo:

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Don't see a seam line? It's normal ! There are in fact a multitude of hand-made stitches, which give the impression that the two sides of the shirt are simply placed one on top of the other: this is the "purity" of the Neapolitan shirt in all its splendor!

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You can clearly see the vertical line hand dots on the right of the button.

If you are not wearing a tie, this will be the most visible hand finish: there are a multitude of stitches running along the buttons, on the throat flap.

THE HAND-POSED REINFORCEMENT SWALLOW

Another finish where the hand stitches are very visible!

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A photo that shows the meeting of a machine finish with a hand finish!

THE TRAVETTO OF THE LOWER SLEEVE SLOT

Here's one of my favorite finishes: there's a travetto at the wrist slit. It is a finish that can only be done by hand and characteristic of Italian craftsmanship in shirts and suits.

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The travetto is the little flange that you see, it is a very beautiful finish, which connoisseurs really like.

The travetto has the same function as a bartack: it is in fact a reinforcement on the seam, but whose visual appearance is more "poetic" than a simple machine stitch.

WHAT ABOUT MACHINE FINISHING?

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A fine seam and very close to the edge: you have to be very careful during manufacturing!

Even if this shirt has hand finishes, the more classic machine finishes are not left out. What struck me when I received the first prototype was the fineness of the English seams, very fine, and the seam on the bottom edge of the shirt.

It is very close to the edge, very thin too, and requires a lot of attention to detail to achieve this… refined result.

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This is surely the shirt with the finest English seam in your wardrobe!

WHAT ABOUT THE COLLAR?

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Ah this pass! Important element on a shirt, I clearly wanted a more imposing collar than what we usually do, with a fit so specific to the "made in Italy" shirt.

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The inside of the collar is fitted with a loose interlining, which gives it more flexibility against your skin.

It's impeccable with a tie obviously, but I wanted it to fit well without a tie, to hold well, while maintaining a certain flexibility.

Fortunately, the Neapolitan workshop knows perfectly how to find the right balance between flexibility and structure.

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I wanted a collar that would sit particularly well under the lapels of a blazer.

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This collar also has reinforcement ribs. My recommendation is to keep them on (just remove them during washing!) but if you want a softer finish, you can remove them.

WHAT ABOUT THE CUT?

There are certainly all these luxurious finishes to this shirt, but this workshop in Naples also has strong expertise in the cut and fit of a shirt.

Describing a cut is always a difficult exercise, especially for ready-to-wear, but I'm going to risk this exercise!

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When you put it on, you feel that there is expertise behind the fit, the armhole is very neat, relatively high but never unpleasant. The sleeve is worked, with no excess material, but with good mobility.

As for the bust of the shirt, it is very well balanced to my taste, we asked our Neapolitan workshop to offer the cut which was the most versatile.

Now let's see the sizing of this shirt!

VERY PRECISE SIZING

You will see, the sizing is not S, M, L, but rather a number like 38, 39, 40, etc., which corresponds to the neck size. This allows you to have a very precise sizing, well adapted to your body shape.

In fact, imagine that each size of S, M, L, there are two sizes of 38, 39, etc. For example, an L with us corresponds to a 41 and a 42, to have an even finer sizing.

Here are the equivalences:

  • XS: 36
  • S: 37
  • S: 38
  • M: 39
  • M: 40
  • L: 41 (this is personally my size on this shirt, and I wear L everywhere in our house, and I think the 42 could have worked on me too)
  • L: 42
  • XL: 43
  • XL: 44
  • XXL: 45
  • XXL: 46

A COTTON LINEN BLEND IDEAL FOR HIGH HEAT

You know me, I didn't want to have a simple white poplin on this shirt.

This is why this fabric contains linen in the following proportions:

  • 67% cotton
  • 33% linen
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A fresh, airy and textured fabric!

It is the linen which gives this “slub” appearance to this fabric, for a result full of texture.

The fabric is spun at Mileta, a Czech weaver run by Italians, you can't make it up!

Its weight is 110 g/m2, which makes it ideal for hot seasons.

THE QUESTION OF PRICE

You can imagine that a shirt made in Italy cannot cost the same price as a shirt made in Portugal. And even less if the shirt has several hand finishes, but requiring more time and more qualified people.

That said, thanks to our economic model, we can offer this shirt at a lower price than elsewhere for equivalent quality. It will therefore cost €200, where a shirt of such quality with 6 hand loops easily costs €300, €400 or even €500 at other luxury brands.

Here is the presentation of a shirt that I loved working on, and I hope to have communicated my passion around this piece! As usual, if you have any questions, I'm at your disposal in the comments!

HOW TO GET THIS SHIRT?

It is available in our stores in Paris, Lyon, Bordeaux and Nantes as well as on our e-shop:

Benoît Wojtenka Benoît Wojtenka
Benoit Wojtenka, co-founder

I founded BonneGueule.fr in 2007. Since then, I have been helping men build their style by providing them with clear and practical advice, but also more advanced thinking. I also like techwear, Japanese materials, sports and tea.

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