It's no longer a secret to anyone, I'm passionate about backpacks! I own almost twenty of them, and more generally, I have a fascination for objects that allow you to carry other backpacks on your back.
It's an accessory that is absolutely essential to me in my daily life (especially for carrying my sports clothes) and not a day goes by without me carrying a bag on my shoulders at least once.
I have three main influences :
- the outdoors obviously, for questions of comfort and practicality,
- l’urban , for clean lines with elegant and very timeless design services,
- the world of tactical backpacks , for their robustness, the color palettes used and the hidden features.
I am convinced that these are three worlds that can complement each other, and I wanted to combine these influences on our first backpack.
So it was time for BonneGueule to look into the subject!
And for this very first BonneGueule bag, I wanted to do it with a brand that embodies this taste for beautiful bags that last over time, and that develop a nice patina. And also a brand that manufactures in France!
This is why we chose the Bleu de Chauffe brand.
Why Bleu de Chauffe?
Because it is a brand specialized in durable bags, with beautiful materials that become more and more beautiful over time, they have specialized in very solid finishes and timeless designs . Their influences come from the world of saddlery , and not from classic leather goods.
This requires much more robust construction techniques than what we want to see in pure leather goods, and I will detail them...
Each bag is entirely made by a single craftsman, in France , in the workshop that they set up themselves, which allows them to have total control over the quality of manufacturing.
In addition to their incredible know-how , I wanted to bring my taste for technique , with materials and buckles that they had never used, for a beautiful alliance of our DNAs.
I invite you to watch this video to immerse yourself in the Bleu de Chauffe universe :
The finishes specific to Bleu de Chauffe
A leather full of resources
One of Bleu de Chauffe's visual signatures are these leather suspenders, with a strip of wool felt sewn onto them.
And on this simple element, there is already a lot to say...
To have a durable and resistant leather, Bleu de Chauffe uses leathers intended for saddlery rather than classic leather goods.
It is therefore a vegetable tanned leather, that is to say an animal leather tanned with natural tannins from organic substances such as oak, chestnut, mimosa or acacia.
Its interest is well known to lovers of beautiful leathers: it is a tanning that allows to have a very beautiful patina that will reveal itself over time. The more you wear it, the more beautiful these suspenders will become!
It is a so-called “ pull up ” leather, meaning that it is oiled so that it is not afraid of water.
The leather that comes from the butt , and this is no coincidence, because it allows for a very dense , strong leather that will not deform , which, you will agree, is very important for backpack straps.
There is another detail, insignificant at first glance, but very useful: the straps are adjusted like a belt (so that both straps have a perfectly identical length), and there is a small leather pin.
This simple little feature actually prevents the end of the belt from dragging on the ground when you're carrying the bag in tote mode, which is very practical, especially compared to other backpacks.
100% wool felt on the straps
This is one of the signatures of Bleu de Chauffe bags, the mix of smooth brown leather with the texture of mottled grey wool felt sewn on top.
Its role is to provide comfort and support, it is 100% wool , it is 3mm thick for the more curious.
It is compressed and very dense to ensure good comfort and great durability over time .
A brass metalwork
These straps are securely fastened with brass rivets, which are stronger than iron rivets , and this is also a very robust finish from saddlery rather than a delicate handbag.
These are “double cap” rivets, meaning that the male and female parts have exactly the same appearance, unlike jeans rivets: it’s a nice aesthetic detail.
At the bottom of the bag, the shoulder straps are attached with a carabiner that can rotate completely on itself, which has two functions:
- Visually, it brings a very pleasant industrial/workwear spirit,
- and from a more practical point of view, it allows the strap to sit better on your body
In fact, compared to my other backpacks, the strap turns much less than the others when you put it on, and that's very appreciable.
A mesh-lined back
This was a detail that was close to my heart: there is mesh on the back of the bag to improve ventilation at the back when the bag is worn, and this helps to emphasize the outdoor influences of this bag.
Now let's move on to the BonneGueule touch on this bag: the use of the X-Pac and the Cobra buckle .
These are two elements with many qualities , and the fact that they are so rarely used by French brands is a complete mystery to me. So I am extremely proud to put them in the spotlight with this collaboration!
Let's start with the most visible: the X-Pac canvas.
The X-Pac: the alliance of authentic canvas with nautical technology
What perfectly symbolizes the union of our two worlds is the canvas used for this bag: the X-Pac.
But what is this painting and why do I love it so much?
Basically, this technology comes from the world of boating and responds to a very concrete problem: how to prevent a sail from deforming over time because of the blowing wind?
In fact, it is composed of three layers:
- On the outside, you have a strong , durable cotton canvas that will develop a patina , which is completely in keeping with the world of Bleu de Chauffe. The cotton canvas is laminated, meaning it is glued to this famous X-Pac technology.
- Then, the famous diamonds iconic to the X-Pac are affixed. These are the fibers that add a lot of strength to the canvas, and prevent it from deforming , and they have a very precise angle of 22°!
- Finally, you have a completely waterproof film that you see inside the bag. This is what will protect your personal belongings .
Visually, I love this texture of the very authentic cotton canvas which combines with the diamonds which are slightly drawn, I like this very technical side suggested…
X-Pac is a material that has been tried and tested for several years now, and is used by many high-end and demanding outdoor backpack brands, for ultra-light backpacks, or on the contrary, for bags designed to carry heavy loads.
So I know that it is a material that lasts extremely well over time thanks to these famous diamonds.
Little bonus: the brown color has an organic cotton canvas, and both colors are PFC free, meaning the water-repellent treatment is not dangerous for nature.
The Cobra buckle: an exquisite mechanism!
The other visual element that we notice is this famous Cobra loop.
On the technical side, it is an extremely reliable buckle, which cannot be opened accidentally, which is why it is used in very demanding military applications... or to safely suspend aerial artists!
It is therefore incredibly durable and does not fear much, especially not the weather.
Visually, it is made entirely of aluminum to aerospace requirements, and above all, its clicking sound is exquisite and very satisfying.
In short, it's a loop that has a visual touch, and it's no coincidence that it's regularly used in superhero costumes or science fiction outfits.
People who are sensitive to beautiful mechanisms, such as the closure of a high-end watch strap or the system of a handcrafted folding knife, will undoubtedly fall under its spell!
For those even more curious about this loop, here is what I wrote about it a few years ago:
The History of the Cobra Loop
The Genesis
It all began in 1996, the year AustriAlpin was born, an Austrian company specializing in climbing equipment: carabiners, ice axes, crampons, etc. Their great mastery of aluminum machining gave them more and more visibility among the informed public.
In their constant search for innovation, AustriAlpin engineers find themselves faced with an existential problem:
"How do you create a system that allows two straps to be joined together in the safest way in the world, while being extremely easy to handle?" This is how the Cobra buckle was born.
Military brands realize the interest of this indestructible buckle and will use it to make combat belts, which are easily adjusted thanks to the sliding system and which support the weight of multiple pouches filled with magazines, grenades, radios or medical kits.
A famous design
Without really realizing it, the design of AustriAlpin is so successful that Hollywood action cinema regularly places them in their costumes. It is in the film Blade (1998) that the Cobra buckle makes its first appearance.
Later, it will be regularly used in science fiction films (The Martian for example), and the entire Marvel universe. On the clothing side, it is first in streetwear that the buckle makes its appearance, with the brand Alyx, which uses a very similar buckle.
Nowadays, we find this buckle in many techwear brands, but also in brands like Bagjack or Bedouin. For my part, I have been wearing a Cobra belt almost every day for two years now. I confirm: the mechanism is flawlessly reliable and seems absolutely indestructible.
What is the use of this bag?
It is above all a bag designed for urban and everyday life, although it can be useful on a short stroll in the afternoon.
If you plan on doing a lot of hiking, I would therefore advise you to take… a hiking bag instead (logical).
On the other hand, if you want a bag for your everyday life, to carry from morning to night to follow you on your travels, then you've come to the right place.
This is really a bag intended to accompany you every day on your back rather than being used 3 times a year for hiking.
What capacity?
As a backpacking enthusiast, you can imagine that I took this question very seriously…
It therefore has a capacity of 25 liters .
It is a capacity that allows you to carry your computer and a few extra things:
- for example, for me it is the perfect size to take my computer, my sports clothes, my sports shoes, a few personal items, like the office keys, my headphones, a small external battery and a couple of groceries when I get home in the evening.
- for someone who doesn't need to take their sports gear, it's a capacity that allows you to easily always take your computer, a book and an extra piece of warm clothing, for example.
It is a capacity that also allows you to make an urban trip of 24 hours or even 48 hours if you are minimalist and you take few clothes.
Having owned almost twenty backpacks - and therefore having tested many volumes - I find that this is the ideal capacity for everyday use.
- I tested 16 liters: it quickly becomes cramped as soon as you put a pair of shoes in it,
- 18 liters: same, and you have to play Tetris if you decide to do some impromptu shopping on the way,
- 20 - 22 liters: this is a more suitable volume, but I regularly found that there was still a little space missing sometimes,
- 27 liters: this is a comfortable capacity for unforeseen events, but a little too big 90% of the time.
This is why the 25 litre bag is a “sweet spot” for me!
But I wanted to hear other feedback on using this bag…
So here is how Alexandre, who, I remind you, designed this bag, uses it:
"I like to take it for short trips of 24/48 hours max. Large enough to put my laptop, a few files, my toiletry bag and change of clothes in it for spending a night out."
"On the train or plane, its size is ideal when there are a few people around me. I can carry it by hand in small spaces without disturbing anyone in tote bag mode. It is safe, on the metro its pocket on the back is practical and well positioned. I can put my phone and wallet in it without thinking about pickpockets. Another important point: its functionality and the balance of the backpack motivate my choice when I take it. I systematically choose it when I do trade fairs in France or abroad. I can walk for hours and go see suppliers while keeping a style that coordinates with my silhouette close to the Bonne Gueule style. I like to say that it is the right bag for urban adventurers ."
Storage: a large compartment and several extra pockets
On my bags, I tested many possible configurations and finally, I came back to something simple and minimalist, namely:
- a large compartment that you organize as you want,
- and a few small extra pockets to store keys, passport, wallet, cables, etc.
This backpack is therefore constructed as follows:
- you have a large pocket to store your essentials
- On the outside you have two quick access pockets, perfect for putting a packet of tissues, a bottle of hydroalcoholic gel, a charger, etc.
- then there is a very secure zipped pocket on the back for your passport or wallet
- and inside, you have a small removable zipped pocket, this is for example where I put the keys to our offices. And it is also where the date of manufacture of the bag is written as well as the first name of the person who made it!
You can also add extra storage with their beautiful 100% wool computer cover sold separately, which attaches with two snap buttons inside.
How comfortable is this bag?
Compared to the ultra-padded shoulder straps of hiking backpacks, one might wonder how comfortable this bag is.
It is clear that if it was a backpack intended to carry 15kg - 20kg of load, the question would be legitimate, but for daily and urban use, the comfort is totally there. And I say this with full knowledge of the facts, including if I compare it to my many other backpacks that I take on a daily basis!
I have never had the slightest discomfort and above all, I find that visually, these suspenders in this very beautiful leather and this mottled gray wool felt are infinitely more beautiful and in keeping with my style than suspenders in synthetic materials.
Conclusion: The greatest magic of this backpack
Finally, I have to confess something to you...
Of all the backpacks I have, this is the bag that is easiest to integrate into my outfits, because its straps with the leather, the mottled wool felt, or the cotton canvas make it wear very well with a workwear jacket, a sweatshirt, distressed jeans or a good old chino. And it was not the easiest challenge to reveal!
Finally a bag that I can wear at Pitti for example, unlike my other bags which clashed too much with this stylish atmosphere...
This is perhaps Bleu de Chauffe's greatest achievement, especially for an enthusiast like me: having created a backpack that you really want to wear because it is simply beautiful, durable and timeless .
