It's no longer a secret that I'm passionate about backpacks! I own almost twenty of them, and more generally, I have a fascination for objects that allow others to be carried on the back of a man.
It's an accessory that is absolutely essential for me in my daily life (especially for carrying my sports clothes) and not a day goes by without me carrying a bag on my shoulders at least once.
I have three main influences :
- the outdoors obviously, for questions of comfort and practicality,
- the urban , for clean lines with elegant and very timeless design services,
- the world of tactical backpacks , for the robustness, the color palettes used and the hidden features.
I am convinced that these are three worlds that can complement each other, and I wanted to combine these influences on our first backpack.
So it was time for BonneGueule to look into the subject!
And for this very first BonneGueule bag, I wanted to do it with a brand that embodies this taste for beautiful bags that last over time, and which have a nice patina. And also a brand that manufactures in France!
This is why we chose the Bleu de Chauffe brand.
Why Bleu de Chauffe?
Because it is a brand specializing in durable bags, with beautiful materials that become more and more beautiful over time, they specialize in very solid finishes and timeless designs . Their influences come from the world of saddlery , and not from classic leather goods.
This requires construction techniques that are much more robust than what we want to see in pure leather goods, and I will detail them…
Each bag is entirely made by a single craftsman, in France , in the workshop they set up themselves, which allows you to have total control over the manufacturing quality .
In addition to their incredible know-how , I wanted to bring my taste for technique , with materials and loops that they had never used, for a beautiful alliance of our DNAs.
I invite you to watch this video to immerse yourself in the Bleu de Chauffe universe :
Bleu de Chauffe’s own finishes
A leather full of resources
One of Bleu de Chauffe's visual signatures are these leather straps, with a strip of wool felt sewn on them.
And on this simple element, there is already a lot to say…
To have durable leather that is resistant to the elements , Bleu de Chauffe uses leathers intended for saddlery rather than classic leather goods.
It is therefore a vegetable-tanned leather, that is to say an animal leather tanned with natural tannins from organic substances such as oak, chestnut, mimosa or acacia.
Its value is well known to lovers of fine leather: it is a tanning process that provides a very beautiful patina that will reveal itself over time. The more you wear it, the more beautiful these straps will become!
It is a so-called “ pull up ” leather, that is to say it is oiled so as not to fear water.
The leather
There is another detail, insignificant at first glance, but very useful: the straps are adjusted like a belt (so that the two straps have a perfectly identical length), and there is a small leather barb.
This small, simple element actually prevents the end of the belt from dragging on the ground when you carry the bag in tote mode, which is very practical, especially compared to other backpacks.
100% wool felt on the straps
This is one of the signatures of Bleu de Chauffe bags, the mixture of smooth brown leather with the texture of gray and mottled wool felt, sewn on it.
Its role is to provide comfort and support, it is 100% wool , it is 3mm thick for the most curious.
It is compressed and very dense to ensure good comfort and great durability over time .
Brass metalwork
These straps are firmly fixed with brass rivets, more resistant than iron rivets , and this is also a very robust finish from saddlery rather than a delicate handbag.
These are “double cap” rivets, meaning that the male part and the female part have exactly the same appearance, unlike jeans rivets: it’s a nice aesthetic detail.
At the bottom of the bag, the straps are fixed with a carabiner that can turn completely on itself, which has two functions:
- visually, this brings a very nice industrial/workwear spirit,
- and from a more practical point of view, it allows the strap to sit better on your body
In fact, compared to my other backpacks, the strap rotates much less than the others when you put it on, and that is very appreciable.
A mesh-lined back
This was a detail that was important to me: there is mesh at the back of the bag to improve ventilation at the back when the bag is worn, and this helps support the outdoor influences of this bag.
Now for the BonneGueule touch on this bag: the use of the X-Pac and the Cobra buckle .
These are two elements with many qualities , and the fact of seeing them used so little by French brands is a complete mystery to me. I am therefore extremely proud to put them in the spotlight with this collaboration!
Let's start with the most visible: the X-Pac canvas.
The X-Pac: the alliance of an authentic canvas with nautical technology
What perfectly symbolizes the union of our two worlds is the canvas used for this bag: the X-Pac.
But what is this painting and why do I love it so much?
Basically, this technology comes from the world of boating and responds to a very concrete problem: how to prevent a sail from deforming over time because of the blowing wind?
In fact, it is made up of three layers:
- On the outside, you have a solid , durable cotton canvas that will patina , which completely corresponds to the world of Bleu de Chauffe. The cotton canvas is laminated, that is to say it is glued to this famous X-Pac technology.
- Then, the famous iconic diamonds on the X-Pac are affixed. It is these fibers which add a lot of strength to the canvas, and which prevent it from deforming , and they have very precisely an angle of 22°!
- Finally, you have a completely waterproof film that you see inside the bag. It is he who will protect your personal belongings .
Visually, I love this texture of the very authentic cotton canvas which combines with the diamonds which are slightly outlined, I like this very technical side suggested...
X-Pac is a material proven for several years already, it is used by many brands of high-end and demanding outdoor backpacks, for ultra-light backpacks, or on the contrary, for bags designed to carry heavy loads.
So I know that it is a material that lasts extremely well over time thanks to these famous diamonds.
Small bonus: the brown color has an organic cotton canvas, and both colors are PFC free, meaning the water-repellent treatment is not dangerous for nature.
The Cobra buckle: an exquisite mechanism!
The other visual element that we notice is this famous Cobra buckle.
On the technical side, it is an extremely reliable buckle, accidental opening of which is impossible , which is why it is used in very demanding military applications... or to safely suspend aerial artists!
It is therefore incredibly durable and does not fear much, especially the weather.
Visually, it is entirely made of aluminum for aerospace requirements, and above all, its clicking sound is exquisite and very satisfying.
In short, it's a buckle that has a visual touch, and it's no coincidence that it is regularly used in superhero costumes or science fiction outfits.
People who are sensitive to beautiful mechanisms, such as the closure of a high-end watch strap or the system of an artisanal folding knife, will undoubtedly fall under its charm!
For people even more curious about this loop, here is what I wrote about it a few years ago:
The History of the Cobra Loop
The genesis
It all started in 1996, the year of birth of AustriAlpin, an Austrian company specializing in climbing equipment: carabiners, ice axes, crampons, etc. Their great mastery of aluminum machining gives them more and more visibility among the informed public.
In the constant search for innovation, AustriAlpin engineers find themselves faced with an existential problem:
“How can we create a system that allows two straps to be joined, in the most secure way in the world, while being extremely simple to handle?” This is how the Cobra Loop was born.
Military brands realize the value of this indestructible buckle and will use it to make combat belts, which are easily adjusted thanks to the sliding system and which support the weight of multiple pouches filled with magazines, grenades, radio or medical kit.
A famous design
Without really realizing it, AustriAlpin's design is so successful that Hollywood action films will regularly place them in their costumes. It was in the film Blade (1998) that the Cobra loop made its first appearance.
Subsequently, it will be regularly used in science fiction films (Alone on Mars for example), and the entire Marvel universe. In terms of clothing, it was first in streetwear that the loop made its appearance, with the Alyx brand, which uses
Nowadays, we find this buckle in many techwear brands, but also in brands like Bagjack or Bedouin. For my part, I've been wearing a Cobra belt almost every day for two years. I confirm: the mechanism is flawlessly reliable and seems absolutely indestructible.
What use for this bag?
It is above all a bag designed for urban use and everyday life, although it can be useful on a short afternoon stroll.
If you want to do a lot of hiking, I would therefore advise you to take… a hiking bag instead (logical).
On the other hand, if you want a bag for your daily life, to carry from morning to evening to follow you on your travels, then you have come to the right place.
It's really a bag intended to accompany you every day on your back rather than being used 3 times a year while hiking.
What capacity?
As a backpacking enthusiast, you can imagine that I took this question very seriously…
It therefore has a capacity of 25 liters .
It's a capacity that allows you to carry your computer and a few extra things:
- for example, for me it is the perfect amount to take my computer, my sports clothes, my sports shoes, some personal effects, such as office keys, my headphones, a small external battery and a couple of groceries on the way home me in the evening.
- for someone who does not need to take their sports gear, it is a bed that allows them to easily always take their computer, a book and an extra piece of warm clothing, for example.
It's a capacity that also allows you to make an urban trip of 24 hours or even 48 hours if you are minimalist and you take few clothes.
Having owned almost twenty backpacks – and therefore having tested numerous volumes – I find that it is the ideal capacity for everyday use.
- I tested 16 liters: it quickly becomes cramped as soon as you put a pair of shoes in it,
- 18 liters: the same, and you have to play Tétris if you decide to do some unexpected shopping on the way,
- 20 - 22 liters: this is a better suited liter, but regularly I found that there was still a little lack of space sometimes,
- 27 liters: this is a comfortable liter for unforeseen events, but a little too big 90% of the time.
This is why the 25 liter bag is a “sweet spot” for me!
But I wanted to hear other feedback on using this bag…
Here is how Alexandre, who, I remind you, designed this bag, uses it:
"I like to take it for short trips of 24/48 hours max. Large enough to put my laptop, a few files, my toiletry bag and change to spend a night outside."
"In the train or the plane, its size is ideal when there are a few people around me. I can carry it by hand in small spaces without disturbing anyone in shopping bag mode. It is safe, in the metro its pocket located on the back is practical and well positioned I can put my cell phone and my wallet there without thinking about pickpockets. Another important point: its functionality and the balance of the backpack motivate my choice when I take it. I choose systematically when I do trade shows in France or abroad. I can walk around for hours and go see suppliers while keeping a style that coordinates with my silhouette , close to the Bonne Gueule style. is the right bag for urban backpackers ."
Storage: a large compartment and several extra pockets
On my bags, I tested many possible configurations and finally, I came back to something simple and minimalist, namely:
- a large compartment that you organize as you want,
- and a few small extra pockets to store your keys, passport, wallet, cables, etc.
This backpack is therefore constructed as follows:
- you have a large pocket to store most of your belongings
- on the outside, you have two quick access pockets, perfect for putting a pack of tissues, a bottle of hydroalcoholic gel, a charger, etc.
- then there is a very secure zipped pocket on the back for your passport or wallet
- and inside, you have a small removable zipped pocket, this is for example where I put the keys to our offices. And this is also where the date the bag was made is written as well as the first name of the person who made it!
You can also add additional storage with their beautiful 100% wool computer cover sold separately, which attaches with two snap buttons inside.
How comfortable is this bag?
Compared to the ultra-padded straps of hiking backpacks, one wonders how comfortable this bag is.
It is clear that if it was a backpack intended to carry 15kg - 20kg of load, the question would be legitimate, but for daily and urban use, comfort is totally there. And I say this knowingly, even if I compare it to my many other backpacks that I carry on a daily basis!
I have never had the slightest discomfort and above all, I find that visually, these straps in this very beautiful leather and this heather gray wool felt, are infinitely more beautiful and in keeping with my style than straps made of synthetic materials.
Conclusion: the greatest magic of this backpack
Finally, I have to tell you something...
Of all the backpacks I have, this is the bag that is the easiest to integrate into my outfits, because its straps with the leather, the heather of the wool felt, or the cotton canvas make it it goes very well with a workwear jacket, a sweatshirt, distressed jeans or good old chinos. And it wasn't the easiest challenge to reveal!
Finally a bag that I will be able to wear at Pitti for example, unlike my other bags which contrasted too much with this stylish atmosphere...
This is perhaps Bleu de Chauffe's greatest achievement, especially in the face of an enthusiast like me: having created a backpack that we really want to wear because it is simply beautiful, durable and timeless .
