Note: Matt, a BonneGueule reader living in England, was very interested in the quilted jacket. He tells us his story.
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The quilted jacket is, along with the trench coat, the most worn jacket across the Channel. It's almost impossible to go out without it! But very few people know the history of this coat, and the benefits of having one in your wardrobe; if you like the English style, of course.
To do this, we will look at the history of the piece, then what characterizes it, some ideas for looks, and finally, where to find one at the best price.
Medieval armor.
The story of Monsieur Guylas and his husky
The principle comes above all from a series of fabrics sewn like a patchwork (the patchwork itself being a derived form).
We can find examples dating from the 17th century, which was mainly used to make the armor of the knight, or samurai, more comfortable. The people being not noble, and therefore not rich enough to protect themselves properly, generally only wore the padded part.
Banana Republic quilted jacket.
The shape of the diamonds which stick out a little more from the jacket, a bit like a 3D effect or a down jacket, comes from two pieces of fabric, sewn together, and a third layer sandwiched (a metaphor of rare quality) which will serve to retain heat .
We then obtain a piece that is resistant to rain, and which keeps warm thanks to the materials (wool, polyester, silk, feather) and the trapped air. We're really talking about technical clothing (as a reminder, Geoffrey and his trip to Scotland: dressing when it's cold ).
As surprising as it may seem, the first real model of the quilted jacket was only invented in 1965 by a certain Steve Guylas. Returning from the war, he decided to settle in England and open several stores, including Husky Inc.
He will sell the famous jackets, then intended for hunters and fishermen (remember, warm and water-resistant clothing, perfect for the English summer). Being a nature lover himself and owning a husky, the name was a natural fit.
Again here we can see the versatility of this piece.
Thanks to the technical qualities and its simple but effective cut, his jacket will be a huge success, so great that even his majesty will wear it for his horseback rides.
Obviously, as soon as we saw the Queen wearing this item of clothing, it didn't take much time before it became the "hype" item of clothing, especially among the Sloane Rangers (a sort of preppy from the 60s of which Lady D was the most famous effigy).
30 years later, Mr. Guylas decided to sell his business to the Italian Saviero Moschillo. Its democratization was such that everyone had their hand in it. You can find them everywhere and at all prices.
What makes a quilted jacket?
The original, real, beautiful husky jacket was made of 100% nylon with polyester padding. Note the hunter's pockets, very large and deep, allowing you to put cartridges, or even small game (very practical for all the small objects of daily life). Five snap buttons on the front which allow it to be closed all the way up. The collar is usually made of leather or velvet.
Traditionally, in English tailoring, there are two slits at the back of the jacket, to improve comfort during spirited rides on Her Majesty's moors.
Sketch of a jacket.
Here we will find this detail, which can be closed to prevent air from passing through.
Slits in the back.
How to integrate it into your outfits?
The cut is simple, fitted, and with sleeves placed high to facilitate movement. The coat is short, which will delight little ones. It helps to easily maintain consistency in the length of clothing and therefore the general line ( cannon of the eight heads cough cough).
A very versatile technical piece, it can be worn with a workwear style: chunky knit, beautiful selvedge jeans, and a nice pair of weathered boots and off you go. Note the leather part on the shoulder, it is specific for hunters which allows them to shoot the rifle on the shoulder.
The layering effect on the right, which gives more volume to the shoulders and torso.
With a more formal style:
Again here we can see the versatility of this piece.
Wool pants, pretty brogues, a simple reminder of colors with socks and that's it!
Navy blue and khaki are the two traditional colors, but with the explosion in demand, we can find them in all colors or even all shapes. Don't hesitate to poke around, you can find real gems.
Finally a photo of a real stylistic success:
For the more conceptual.
The shoes stand out and prevent the outfit from becoming boring, the jacket a very beautiful blue with green snap buttons. The big scarf to strengthen the top, the yellow socks to lengthen the silhouette. All good !
Husky jackets: where to find the beast?
Unfortunately, the husky no longer exists, but as said previously, you can find this type of coat absolutely everywhere:
Toomer bros is a good brand offering pieces very focused on the countryside and so-called "outdoor" activities. The cut is fitted for a more modern look. I like the detail of the sleeves cut at an angle to cover the hands a little more.
Toomer Bros. quilted jacket
A good address for small budgets (you will find more expensive depending on the level of technicality: waterproof, type of lining...): £30 on sale.
Lavenham is an excellent brand offering sober, elegant pieces, and with every possible option imaginable: hoods, sleeveless, inserts.
Lavenham quilted jacket.
I highly recommend this brand which offers everything, well made, it's really the best value for money I've seen (£130 is very reasonable).
For the more sophisticated, and (above all) with a larger budget, you will find Burberry and Aquascutum , which offer leather jackets with more elaborate cuts. Barbour is also a good place, although more expensive than Lavenham.
Paul Stuart quilted jacket.
Finally with the American touch, Ralph Lauren offers interesting pieces.
In leather, offered by Paul Stuart , this type of piece can very easily rise in price.
Finally, Italians love this jacket, but it is very difficult to find one without going to Milan. Boggi could be a good solution even if stocks are not always full.
A word for the end
Despite everything, this piece remains a “nag” jacket. Materials that are too precious, although very beautiful, distract from the primary function: hunting and fishing.
Ultimately, this piece is versatile and allows you to travel comfortably, stay warm, and still look stylish if you have to wear a tie. To have in your wardrobe for everyday life and slightly rainy weather.
I'll leave you, it's almost tea time .
