Tartan is one of the most emblematic elements of Scottish culture . But ultimately, and beyond the somewhat stereotypical image of the Scotsman in a kilt, what do we know about this motif?
Sean Connery, who proudly wears traditional Scottish costume.
To find out, we went to Kinloch Anderson, historic tartan manufacturer and “official supplier” to British royalty.
History of tartan maker Kinloch Anderson
Kinloch Anderson: a brand of tradition
It all started in Edinburgh in 1868, with William Anderson. Accompanied by his two sons, he embarked on a tailoring business, and set up his shop on George Street (one of the main arteries of the Scottish capital).
Kinloch Anderson shop on George Street, 1890.
The company's first clientele was initially made up of the country's wealthy notables, but very quickly it attracted the attention of the army. Thus, at the dawn of the First World War, Kinloch Anderson dressed the greatest Scottish regiments, but also those of India ( at that time, the United Kingdom was the most powerful empire in the world, editor's note ).
It was at this time that the brand acquired all its know-how in the manufacture of kilts and tartans , which today represent the heart of their DNA.
Kinloch Anderson uniforms of the Scottish regiments. Yes, yes, the kilt was an integral part of the outfit.
At the end of the 1920s, the brand began a new turning point... since it launched into ready-to-wear .
For the record, several of the best workers left the company at this time, seeing it as an attack on their prestige. And yet, it's probably one of the smartest decisions the company has made.
At the time, the custom industry was in decline. It is its launch in the PAP segment that has allowed the brand to hold up so well over time.
Furthermore, Kinloch Anderson continues to establish its role as a reference in terms of tartans, by publishing the booklet The Scottish National Dress . To give you an idea, this can be consulted at the National Library of Scotland.
The internationalization of Kinloch Anderson
Alongside its diversification process, the brand has retained its tailor-made activity for the military sector.
At the end of the Second World War, many return trips were made between Scotland and Canada; country whose garrisons were also dressed by Kinloch Anderson. This is where the first requests for a store on Canadian soil appeared.
With this desire, the company attacked the Canadian and American markets, then the European market through France, Italy and Germany, among others. Thus, it already exported more than 100,000 pieces per year during the 70s to 80s . One of the most popular products was the women's skirt, boosted by the Pop years.
During this period, the brand also designed the uniform for British Caledonian Airways stewardesses, based on one of their best sellers: the tartan skirt.
From the 1980s, the brand established itself in the Asian market; first with Japan, then with Taiwan and China.
Today, Kinloch Anderson offers clothing for men, women and children, but also leather pieces, shoes, accessories and even household linens. All, of course, around tartan.
Interview with Kristy Franney, the designer of Kinloch Anderson
In this video, you will discover:
- what is the sine qua non condition for making a tartan,
- what are the different types of tartans,
- how a tartan is constructed (with the example of the famous “panda tartan”),
- how a tartan has a strong emotional dimension.
Thanks to Kristy and the rest of the Kinloch Anderson team for their hospitality, and to Barbour for organizing the trip!
