Dear friends, it is a pleasure to meet you again for new nuggets.
Right now, I'm in a phase of building my wardrobe where I'm emphasizing elegance. However, I still refuse to settle for the "classic", or as Benoît would say, a "very first degree" garment.
What I am showing you here are three nuggets, elegant, even formal , but which respect my criteria of subtlety and originality.
Semi-cutaway striped shirt - Gyappu
I've mentioned Gyappu in the past, especially for their ties , which were the only type of product the brand offered in its early days.
Since then, the brand has come a long way, and deserves to be looked at again. Especially for their shirts.
As I was telling you, I am currently in a phase of increasing the elegance of my wardrobe, and this also involves acquiring more formal pieces. However, if I have already acquired a certain number of casual shirts "with a twist", whether through the details or the material, transcribing this requirement to the formal is not so obvious.
Because you see, the characteristic of the formal is to be very codified, and consequently, borrowed from a certain classicism. I therefore need shirts that respect these classic canons while bringing something, a refreshing and discreet particularity...
This is where Gyappu shirts come in. Let's take this one as an example.
First good point: a beautiful semi-cutaway collar, which will highlight the tie knots. Easier to wear than a "full spread cutaway".
Beyond its level of manufacturing, by a high-flying Indian workshop , the point that distinguishes it is its choice of fabric.
The striped shirt is an essential part of a formal wardrobe: after the white shirt and the pale blue one, the striped shirt is probably the one you want to buy. But if you're going to buy stripes, you might as well choose one with relief.
And this fabric does exactly that: at first glance, the ecru background immediately gives a little something extra compared to white. More vintage, more "imperfect", and therefore endowed with more character.
Now let's take a closer look at the stripes.
Up close, the stripe appears richer than from a distance. This is often what makes Japanese fabrics so charming.
On the one hand, they alternate between a plain "stick" stripe and a stripe formed by three rows of dotted lines. And on the other, the stick stripe is not quite plain, its weave makes it sparsely ecru, which gives a very interesting "faded" effect , as if it were chalk that persisted on a slate after being erased a little.
By the way, the indigo color of the stripes combines with ecru, and thus creates this “vintage” feeling.
The result: we have a shirt that manages to convey a "je ne sais quoi", which is both palpable and yet discreet enough to remain within the canons of formality.
Belgian Moccasin "Gattaca" - Caulaincourt
Despite my lack of affinity with loafers in general, I realized this summer that there was indeed a time of year, as well as a certain type of outfit, that seemed to make their use almost indispensable.
I want to talk about the "sartorial-casual" outfits of summer.
For example, if you wear a shirt with a slightly dressed-up pair of Gurkha Bermuda shorts . Or a linen safari jacket with a polo shirt (or a polo-shirt ) with a well-crafted collar...
In other words, all those outfits that evoke the sartorial universe, without being formal , and which are worn in summer.
Now, when you put it like that, it might seem like a bit of a niche job, except that I realized that it was a significant part of my wardrobe. A significant one, and a growing one at that.
So I was forced to capitulate to the moccasin . Yes, you read that right, I admit defeat.
I decided though, that I would do some research on what type of loafer I liked best, rather than just going for the classic Penny Loafer, which is too preppy and Ivy League for my tastes. And in research I found... The Belgian loafer.
"Heeey... Hey there... Would you like to join my shelves?"
The Belgian moccasin is defined by a distinctive element: contrasting leather joints , which follow the perimeter of the cuff of the shoe. , and continue around the tab as well as the tray.
It can then be embellished with various flourishes such as tassels and decorative knots. But if I like the Belgian moccasin, it's because it is sufficient in itself in its most refined version: beautiful lines, beautiful leather, the touch of elegance brought by the contrast of the joints, and that's it!
Seen from above, the tray stands out particularly. That's why you need a slightly elongated shape, to avoid a "dad's slippers on vacation" look.
After a bit of browsing around the market, it seemed to me that Caulaincourt was one of the best options: well-designed lines, beautiful leathers and colours, no frills, and Blake stitching. I stress this last point, because at the moment some of the hottest brands are selling glued-on Belgian loafers for over £300.
I simply preferred to highlight a small French brand that has always done good work, and which has always stood out in the design of its shoes.
Richelieu Balmoral Grainé "Astoria" - Malfroid
These Oxford shoes perfectly meet my current need: to acquire basic dress shoes so that I can wear my suit more often... But not too classic basics either. Wearing my suit primarily for pleasure, and on occasional occasions, I have no use for them.
And what I like about Malfroid is that the shapes seem particularly worked for the price positioning. On a shoe under 300 euros, we are entitled to expect good or even very good leather, good assembly, clean or even very clean finishes... But it is rare to have anything other than simple shapes or very practical designs while respecting these quality criteria.
An elegant, very balanced shape, which I would describe as "tapered roundness".
But I find that this is the case here. There is a clear desire to go beyond the norm in terms of design and shape. Look for example at the small "V" notch that forms in the middle of the "balmoral" seam. .
Or again, the very slight angle which forms on the "smooth" , just before it rounds out.
In short, these small details combined with great quality and a competitive price lead me to an obvious conclusion: I really have to go see some Malfroid shoes in real life.
Look at the line of the sole, from left to right: delicate rounding at the heel, then curve near the arch... And BAM, that little angle right after. (Yes I'm obsessive)
PS: If you are lost by the amount of technical vocabulary used to talk about shoes... It is high time to read this article.
