Buying guide: how to choose the right t-shirt?

Did you know ? It takes about nine seconds to put on a t-shirt, including unfolding .

It is this speed and ease of use that have made the t-shirt the simplest piece to choose, to wear, to accommodate. Comfort, simplicity, enhancement... These are all criteria that have made the t-shirt an essential basic, which has spanned the decades.

If a good t-shirt will benefit you a lot, a poorly chosen t-shirt can also harm your look. It is therefore crucial to know how to choose a quality t-shirt, in the right size and with the right material. This is the very purpose of this guide!

Before looking at the criteria that make the difference, it is good to know what you expect from the t-shirt you are about to buy .

Are you looking for:

• a t-shirt made from the most sustainable material possible?
• a knitted t-shirt with a unique appearance, with charm and character?

Given that it is (theoretically) the first layer of clothing in contact with the skin, the t-shirt is one of the items that we will most frequently put in the washing machine. Regular washing means deformation of the collar, use of finishes and fading color, which is still sad for such a practical garment.

If you choose a lower-cost t-shirt, chances are no production effort was put into it : the fibers are short and damage with friction. Finishing, dyeing and possible pattern printing only add to the costs. If they are done poorly, the purchase of a cheap t-shirt will be all the more regrettable.

The converse is not necessarily true: an expensive t-shirt whose production required meticulous spinning and knitting work does not necessarily guarantee quality and durability .

There are therefore two families of recommendable t-shirts:

• T-shirts with exceptional charm, with beautiful materials and a strong stylistic proposition, but less durability
• And more basic t-shirts, with less developed finishes but which will accompany you for several years

Tell yourself that a good t-shirt is one that remains elegant and practical despite repeated wear and washing. And if the t-shirt remains a basic piece in every way, it's the quality that will make the difference .

Here are some criteria to help you recognize interesting t-shirts:

• Overcasting (sewing at the edges of pieces of fabric) must be even and not fray . If so, you can put that t-shirt back where you found it. (You can even put him in a ball, that will teach him)

• The neckband must be present inside the collar, and must be regular and flat . This is what will ensure comfort when worn, you will not feel the seams on your skin.

• The collar must have an impeccable hold : it is he who will highlight you once the t-shirt is put on. If he yawns or looks distorted, it's often a bad sign.

Lay your t-shirt flat . If it sits crooked, it's because its seams are “twisting”. You are then either faced with a particularly unstable material, or faced with a t-shirt requiring patterning and rough assembly .

Beyond these checkpoints, it will be up to you to gauge whether the product corresponds to what you are looking for .

If you are looking for an indestructible t-shirt, compare the thicknesses of knitting, pull lightly on them to see their hold and their elasticity, you will quickly tell the difference to the touch between a solid garment and a more fragile model.

If you are looking for a t-shirt with a particular material or cut, follow your heart while checking the finishes so as not to regret your purchase later.

In both cases, you also need to anticipate whether this t-shirt will fit easily into your usual outfits. Does the color suit you? Doesn't it clash with the rest of your clothes?

In the majority of cases, t-shirts are made of cotton. We all have at least one, and it's not for nothing: the cotton t-shirt is one of the most attractive value for money items of clothing .

Cotton is popular for several reasons:

• It is a natural and breathable material, relatively light to wear
• It is durable and easy to maintain
• It is hydrophilic , which means it absorbs water well

The range of cotton t-shirts being very wide, it is necessary to question the origin of the material , whether it is organic or not, and what type of cotton was used.

By choosing cotton at a higher price than that found in fast fashion (or labeled cotton), you will pay in particular for cotton grown in better climatic conditions, with better irrigation, and more respectful picking. of its fibers. You will have a material with fibers that are often longer, more solid, and which take colors better.

Among the ultra-reliable labels, we can cite Oeko-Tex , which guarantees production meeting high health and ecological standards, and the GOTS label (Global Organic Textile Standards) which certifies dignified working conditions for manufacturers, but also great respect for the environment. In both cases, if you see one of these two labels present on the label of your future t-shirt, you can go for it.

You can find more details on labels in our material guides .

Over the years, linen has become one of the best-sellers during the warm periods of the year . It has many advantages when the mercury exceeds 18 degrees:

• it is thermoregulating , releasing air in case of heat (which is still very practical)
• it can store up to 20% of its weight in humidity, and dries quickly
• it is hypoallergenic and antibacterial , which is very effective against body odor or perspiration

Its thermoregulatory properties will also make it a potentially useful piece in winter, but that's without taking into account its main disadvantage: it is rough , and will turn into a real back-scratcher if you compress it under a thick sweater.

The second functional disadvantage of linen is that it wrinkles quickly . But for the casual piece that is the t-shirt, this remains less problematic than for formal clothing.

Finally, it is not the easiest material to maintain, unlike cotton.

The solution to limit the tendency of your linen t-shirt to crease and scratch will be to go towards the high or mid-range: better quality linen will have a rounder, less brittle, and softer crease . Poor quality fibers, which are more fragile, break and thus leave more pronounced folds. Linen also deforms very easily, especially on a low-end t-shirt.

Whether for winter or summer, a merino wool t-shirt can quickly make you addicted to its comfort and its multiple qualities:

• It will be breathable and thermoregulating , as effective in hot weather as when sequestered in a fridge (like linen and cotton, but to a greater degree!)
• It can absorb up to 35% of its weight in humidity
• It will retain almost no body odor

All this without having the disadvantages of linen. Afterwards, it's not the same aspect either, but it's up to you to judge. Below, our Newtim t-shirt in burgundy color.

The only argument against a merino t-shirt would be its drying time: 50% longer than for a synthetic fiber, which slows down some athletes but does not prevent hikers and adventurers from systematically using this material. Moreover, Nico Mathieux, an experienced explorer, confirmed this to us.

If your budget allows it, you can easily opt for this holy grail of comfort in all seasons .

Looking at the label of some t-shirts, you will find a hint of silk incorporated into the material of your t-shirt. This fiber has its place there :

• It takes the light very well, and thus brings nobility to your room
• It gives a certain strength to fabric blends thanks to its resistance to tension
• It's soft and... silky

You will therefore have a t-shirt with a more pleasant feel and a bright appearance . This particular reflection of light will, however, move the slider slightly away from casualness, since your t-shirt will have a much less raw appearance.

Whether to soften a linen material or ennoble a merino wool knit, silk is welcome in your t-shirt drawer.

The main disadvantage of silk is the difficulty of maintenance: it requires special care, and refuses to be washed at more than 30 degrees . If you have time, we even recommend washing your silk t-shirts by hand.

A t-shirt made of synthetic material will often have a "shiny" finish, reminiscent of the lack of charm of a plastic material. This shiny appearance will contrast with your clothing made from natural materials and will give rise to a lack of visual coherence overall.

In addition, synthetic materials age poorly: they patina very poorly and quickly become faded in terms of colors.

On the functional side, synthetic does not breathe, and its fiber has no interesting physical properties. It will therefore quickly make you sweat, especially if you wear another item of clothing on top. This characteristic goes hand in hand with the tendency of synthetic to exclusively preserve your smelly bacteria.

The only benefit that some will find in a synthetic t-shirt is in the context of sports: the fibers being hydrophobic, they will reject your body moisture as much as possible. This is the main advantage of “dry” t-shirts offered by major sports equipment brands.

Viscose, modal, tencel... These materials are neither natural nor of plastic origin. They are in fact made up of plant cellulose resulting from a chemical transformation process, resulting in a fiber with properties modeled by man and demanded by industry. They have several advantages:

• They are breathable, unlike synthetic materials, and retain significantly less smelly bacteria.
• They have a soft touch and a rather smooth appearance.
• They impregnate colors better, their very composition being designed for this.
• They are biodegradable (which is a major advantage!).

The breathable capabilities of lyocell and its cousins ​​(tencel, seacell or even hempcell) and their softness make them effective on a t-shirt with technical material, ideal for the most sporty among you. Especially since these fibers dry very quickly, which makes their use relevant to complement the virtues of merino wool, seen above.

The main disadvantage of this approach remains the very smooth appearance of these materials which, like certain synthetics, can quickly lack charm. So everything will depend on your taste.

If you are faced with a t-shirt made mainly of artificial material, and it is neither technical nor with accessible prints, you can move on and opt for a natural material.

If you are looking for a t-shirt to be ready for any eventuality, to brave variable weather or to go into space, you should look towards technical clothing. Their main promise focusing on comfort and ultimate breathability.

Be careful though: there is “technique”, and there is technique.

Among the t-shirts that will promise you miracles against perspiration, not all will be equally effective. Certain “technical” fabrics, often entry-level, simply add silver particles which have the capacity to kill smelly bacteria.

A true techwear t-shirt, for its part, will rely on the mesh method and the characteristics of the fibers to offer optimal performance. It's expensive, but if this technical efficiency is your priority, this is the option you should favor.

If your approach is to build your wardrobe, we strongly recommend that you first turn to the king of base layers: the white t-shirt.

Due to its absence of color, it will easily match all shades and will therefore be your most versatile t-shirt. Chosen in the right size, it will highlight your build and your complexion.

The white t-shirt is a bit of a morning joker when you're short on time or inspiration. A simple pair of jeans or chinos, a jacket, and you have an outfit that exudes effortless style.

In mid-season as in winter, your white t-shirt will allow you to follow the basic rule for successful first layers: the layer below will be the lightest, gradually moving towards darker upper layers. You thus guarantee the consistency of the whole .

Once you have a fairly large stock of white t-shirts, you can equip yourself with your first t-shirts in basic colors such as blue, gray or even beige to maintain a certain versatility .

Keep in mind that the t-shirt often serves as a base to connect your other pieces, so it is important that you have enough pieces with “go everywhere” colors .

Stronger color models will come later, from a practical point of view. There is no forbidden color : the t-shirt is a piece that we are used to seeing in all shapes and shades. An orange or pink model won't shock many people, if you tone it down with the rest of your outfit.

For your first t-shirts, we recommend that you choose a round neck:

• It easily adapts to the different registers of your outfits
• And you are less likely to make a stylistic mistake

In the case of a low-cut round neck, be careful that it is not too low so as to remain subtle. The goal is not to show off your torso . Subtlety, we tell you.

If the V-neck appeals to you, you can go for it, but be careful:

• So that it does not go below the collarbones,
• So that it is not too close to the body.

If you don't follow these two instructions, you will quickly recall the cliché of the Saturday night flirt. A very precise cliché, but you can't say that we didn't warn you!

You will have noticed, there are a lot of t-shirts with all types of details. Long sleeves, chest pockets, patterns and prints. Let's take a quick look at the question .

1. The sleeves

If the question “long sleeves or short sleeves?” is on your mind, we advise you to opt first for short sleeves, which will be easier to wear and combine with other clothes.

On the other hand, if you want to pair it with a shirt or polo shirt, a long-sleeved t-shirt worn underneath can add a casual streetwear touch.

If the material is not well chosen, a long-sleeved t-shirt can also look like pajamas . If you therefore wish to opt for this type of t-shirt, you will need to pay attention to the general appearance.

Henley can also be a good alternative to a long-sleeved t-shirt, Jordan teaches you how to wear it right here .

2. The small patch pocket

You will find on your way certain models of t-shirts with a small pocket, contrasting or not, on the chest. Here, everything will depend on your personal taste.

It's a little “workwear” detail that can add something extra to your look, especially for summer, where the temperatures don't leave you with many layers of clothing to stand out stylistically.

3. The reasons

Drowned in a batch of plain t-shirts, patterned t-shirts can add a little spice to your style . However, be careful of missteps .

You can have fun with it, under certain conditions:

• Favor subtle and regular patterns
• Choose a pattern directly integrated into the weave of the fabric rather than printed

In the pack of printed t-shirts, you can for example start with a sailor top, before moving on to stronger or more sophisticated patterns.

What printing method?

In the case of a print, do not hesitate to inquire about the printing technique used. Here is a short summary:

• Flocking , when the designs on a film are pressed under high heat against the t-shirt.
• Digital printing , which consists of directly printing the patterns by machine on the fabric.
• Digital transfer , the least durable technique, which consists of affixing a sheet to the fabric to “transfer” the digitally printed pattern.
• Screen printing , an old technique which allows ink to penetrate directly into the fabric using a system of stencils.

Digital transfer and flocking are less sustainable techniques, behind digital printing and, at best, screen printing. So avoid spending a hundred euros for a t-shirt that has simply been flocked.

Finally, a word about t-shirts from the musical world or cultural references: for a while, we advised against them. From now on, we have also learned from our mistakes, and we no longer want to prohibit you from anything (except perhaps sock slides).

Now that you know how to locate the details that make the difference, the suitable materials, let's move on to the cut.

The t-shirt is an extremely simple piece: if it is not adapted to your size or your body shape, it will be obvious . To avoid this scenario, make sure to check the following boxes:

• 1: The shoulder seam should stop at the acromion , a small bone that you will find when touching the tip of your shoulder. If it stops further, the t-shirt will compress your shoulder. Closer, it will simply give the effect of a t-shirt that is too small.
• 2: The collar should stop around the base of your neck . Any higher and it will visually crush it and make you look top of the class. Too low cut, it will lack subtlety
• 3: The sleeves must stop around the middle of the biceps , so that they let them appear without overdoing it
• 4: Your pectorals should be slightly outlined by the t-shirt , without too many folds, but without the fabric being stretched . We have to guess them, not just see that
• 5: The lines of the t-shirt must follow your sides without pressing them or constraining them
• 6: It should ideally stop below your belt . Shorter, your interlocutors will have the chance to see your navel

In the case of a long-sleeved t-shirt, they must stop between the birth of the hand and that of the thumb.

Regarding the length, remember that a t-shirt can always shrink by one or two centimeters the first wash. If your t-shirt stops short at the waist, you can move up to the next size.

You will find more advice and information on the t-shirt and its cousins ​​in this article, right here .

• Velva Sheen : an American brand with a great offering of basic t-shirts. If you are starting to be interested in t-shirts, you will find what you are looking for there
• Merz B. Schwanen : if the name is unpronounceable, Merz B. Schwanen t-shirts are worth the detour, for their quality and effectiveness
• Corridor : a strong stylistic proposal, and lots of color. If you're looking for originality, this is a good option. Special mention to patterned t-shirts
• Rohe Frames: Dutch brand offering volume, wide cuts, and a keen eye for detail
• Arc'teryx : the choice of athletes! An endless supply of high-end technical t-shirts, with a few pieces that are a bit more casual

Natural materials, comfortable cuts, durability, here is a little overview of our own t-shirts :

And there you have it, you now know how to choose a t-shirt worthy of the name. For more content on the subject, you can consult our complete guide on the right tops to have in your wardrobe here , a video on t-shirts in summer here , and an article on character t-shirts here .

We will read your comments, your suggestions, your questions, don't hesitate!