Audrey Oltz is the creator of L’atelier à nouer. As its name suggests, it is a young brand which markets tailor-made ties and bow ties, entirely handmade in a workshop in Lyon. It also offers accessories for women: that way you won’t be jealous 🙂
You are probably aware that Lyon is the historic capital of silk. A proximity that allows Audrey to choose noble materials and pretty patterns. But her choice does not stop at silk, Audrey selects for you by playing with materials and textures to create original ties (and bow ties). I will now leave you in the hands of the expert who will present to you the making of the tie made in L'atelier à nouer. It’s a bit technical, but I assure you it’s very understandable 😉
The ties are handmade in a workshop using a sewing kit: a pattern, a pair of scissors, chalk, a sewing machine, different fabrics, a thimble, threads and needles.

Fabric selection
The choice of fabric is crucial when making a tie. The quality of its weave stiffens the tie but also ensures its flexibility.
The vast majority of ties are lined with a thick fabric called cotton fleece, or interlining. Although invisible, this component is major in the making of the tie. Its thickness and the way it is worked will determine the visual rendering of the tie as well as its generous appearance by creating a slight curve. There are very high-end ties without fleece which are constructed with a simple square of silk folded 7 times, but the prices are very high (Julien Scavini had the opportunity to talk about it in an article on his blog Stiff Collar) .
The cotton fleece which will give body to the inside of the tie.
And no, you can't use it as a pillow!
The thin tie, called Slim
The pattern (= the paper "plan" of the tie which is used for making) allows regular cutting of the outer fabric and ensures a constant width of 5 cm for the large section (= the part of the tie visible on your bust when it is is tied). The small section, the one that allows the tie to be tied, is narrower, allowing total discretion at the collar and slipping into the rear clip while holding the tie in place.
The rigid paper pattern, clearly visible in the photo.
The square section
Reserved a few years ago for knitted effect ties, now “the square section” adapts to all the materials used on a tie. Thus, we can finish all the ties with a square shape and not a pointed one, which gives a nice touch of originality. This finish is adapted to all models while taking into account the flexibility and durability of the materials (leather, light fabric, etc.). In fact, silk will not react like wool! The seam allowing the drawing of a horizontal line at the end of the tie is made on the inside so as to be as discreet as possible.
There are two manufacturing methods depending on the fabric selected (knitting or cotton, wool) and the desired finish.
The knitted tie
The first takes up the manufacturing processes of the knitted tie, which always ends with a square section.
Originally, it is made using a tube of knitting then sewn at its ends to give it a square section. The principle developed here is to reproduce this textile tube with a rectangular piece of fabric, such as the sweater (below).
A tube of fabric is formed using a sewing machine (1), the two ends of the tie are sewn so as to close the tube (2), then the tie is turned over like a sock using the opening formed when sewing the tube (3). Note: numbered images are below.
Once the tie is turned inside out, it is closed by hand using a simple seam with a bar tack. And you are ready to tie a beautiful bow!
The sewing machine to form the tube of fabric (1)
The 2 ends are sewn together (2)
We start by turning the tube of fabric over itself...
And we turn the tube of fabric formed like a sock (3)
The handmade and tailor-made tie
The second technique uses more hand sewing techniques and the same processes as for traditional triangular point ties.
Step n°1: This is undoubtedly the most important element in making the tie. Tracing the profile of the tie on the fabric using good old chalk using drawn cardboard patterns ensures cutting accuracy.
Fabric, cut cardboard, and chalk. The rest is just a matter of know-how!
 Step n°2: From the drawn path, cutting the fabric can be tricky depending on the quality of the material and its thickness. It is therefore a question of scrupulously respecting the chalk drawing in order to respect the profile of the model created. Indeed, not all fabrics react in the same way to the passage of a cutting blade: some wrinkle, others resist... The key is not to rush!
Step n°3: Each of the elements having been drawn then cut, you must now assemble them, one after the other: large section, neckband and finally small section.
Step n°4: Here we begin the finishing touches. The way in which they are carried out will determine their quality and discretion. A good seam is one that is not visible or at least not noticeable .

Step n°5: Insertion of the cotton interlining which will stiffen the tie while ensuring its fleece. This part must be dimensioned carefully so that it does not generate tension or excess thickness. Its sizing is essential since it will structure the tie and give it real presence!
 Step n°6: We start sewing the tie (use the same thread for the entire tie)
Step n°7: We sew the hem along the entire length, on the side which is obviously not visible and which will be against your chest.
Step n°9: We finish the seam with a bartack, which is a technique ensuring an optimal finish.
Proof in pictures that everything is done in an artisanal way
 Step n°10: And finally, we finish with the sewing of the interior strap/tie.
Benoît: Now you know how a beautiful tie is made. To find out more about wearing a tie, click here . Please note that Audrey's ties are available on her site for around 50-60 euros with multiple customization possibilities, which would please the most discerning among you. Considering the quality of manufacture and this possibility of customization, it is very good value for money.
