In this article, I will present my experience with the tailor-made suit brand Samson, and highlight the details of the product. But above all, I will try to give you the tools to understand the “half-measure” costume offer .
Because it must be said… the world of tailor-made suits is a happy b***** where you hear a little bit of everything and anything.
Far from claiming to have the knowledge of the costume professionals, tailors, manufacturers or salespeople that I have had the chance to meet, I will simply provide my insight.
I had the chance to get my hands on this very beautiful suit by Stephan Ricard (we were destined to meet), co-founder of the Samson brand (with his wife Sophie). And the suit was cut in late 2013.
But first, let me introduce you to Stephan.
Stephan, and his wife Sophie.
The Samson experience
Stephan is a true costume enthusiast, who knows his job very well. I met him in the boutique on rue de Tournon, there are several in Paris, and one in Lyon.
We are immediately at ease alongside him*, each meeting has led to chatter, good laughs and numerous discoveries both in the world of costumes and in that of men's fashion in general. .
*Me, the other members of the team, and more generally all of its customers.
Obviously, Stéphan has answers to all the technical questions you might ask, he knows his product very well, but is also very attentive to what other brands offer. He succeeded very well in satisfying my great curiosity on the subject, without getting lost in the technique.
As you know, this curiosity about how things are done is at the heart of the BG spirit. (Benoît being a huge fan of the show “It’s not rocket science”).
The end result, I'm particularly a fan of this very clean shoulder.
So that you can make your choice of costume in the best conditions , there are a few points to understand , and we will discover them here.
Half-measure suit VS tailor-made suit? What is it about ?
Let's start at the beginning: the glossary. What is the difference between a “tailor-made” service (also called bespoke or large measure) and “half-measure” (also called small measure)?
The difference lies in the way in which the pattern is prepared (all the different pieces of paper used to cut the fabric, from one costume to another).
- Is the pattern designed and cut specifically for each client? If so, it’s tailor-made.
- Is it adapted from an existing pattern? If so, it's a small measure.
“But Nicholas! It's absolutely incredible, I found costumes on the Internet for less than €200. It was written “custom” in red, in 64 font, and everything. So good plan, right? »
So precisely, today the expression “made-to-measure” is used indiscriminately to describe any slightly personalized suit offer.
However, embroidering the initials on the inside of the jacket of a vaguely fitted suit does not make it a “tailor-made” suit. At least not in the literal sense. Of course I'm exaggerating a little.
You know the difference between what we call tailor-made and small measure. Also know that marketers being tricksters, you will not be able to trust what they tell you...
So, concretely, knowing what is hidden behind each expression is not going to be enough for you…
“Thank you, Nicolas, very good spirit for teaching us things that are useless! »
Don't complain... this is the basis of your education in beautiful costumes...
One last thing, the most striking difference between tailor-made and half-measure (a difference that will hit you like a back kick to the chin): it is… the price.
In France, count on at least €2,500 for a (truly) tailor-made suit. You read correctly… To find out more about this world of extremely cutting-edge craftsmanship, head to the reference blog, Parisian Gentleman.
All this to say that the custom suits you're eyeing should be called something else.
However, to make it more convenient, and because I do not intend to enter into a lexical crusade, in the remainder of this article I will use the same vocabulary as everyone else. That is to say, I will simply talk about tailor-made suits.
If the quality of a costume does not lie in the name we give it, then how do we evaluate it? We will look (among other things) at the quality of the production...
The different interlining methods: semi-traditional construction VS heat-sealed
Be careful, we are entering a technical subject. Although the difference has been explained to me a dozen times, and sometimes with dissected jackets in my hands, I still have doubts about the way certain jackets are constructed.
The important thing to fully understand is to take the time to handle the fabric, the lapels, the bib of jackets constructed differently, and if possible to meet an expert on the subject to chat a little with him.
But why go to all this trouble to understand the construction of a jacket, even when it has very little visual impact? Why is this important? Imagine that the construction has a crucial importance in the longevity of your suit jacket.
Indeed, an interlining worthy of the name allows the suit to age better, for example avoiding the appearance of bubbles on the shoulders and bust in the slightest rain (or going to the dry cleaner).
Here we go: There are three main ways to construct a jacket ...
1. Low-end suit and heat-bonded construction
This is the cheapest solution, we use a plastic material which sticks to the fabric under the effect of a hot press. It’s also the least sustainable way to go about it. The iron-on material detaches over time due to dry cleaning or humidity, with steam forming small bubbles under the fabric.
In this photo you can see that the collar of my shirt is making small bubbles (shirt made in Thailand). This is the typical case of an iron-on that does not stand the test of time. On your iron-on suits, you risk seeing the same thing appear.
2. Premium suit and traditional construction
On the opposite end of the construction spectrum is traditional construction, which uses absolutely no type of glue or plastic.
On the contrary, we use natural materials such as horsehair. This is called full covering . Concretely, it is intended to be more comfortable and it is much more durable. A suit cut 50 years ago by a Saville Row tailor, if the fit is right, would still be wearable today. Moreover, in certain English families the costumes are worn successively by the father and his sons.
I am not going to risk describing what this involves precisely, Julien Scavini, tailor and blogger, has already done it very well, in this article illustrated with clear diagrams, but know that it takes a very long time to achieve, and this has repercussions on the sale price.
3. An intermediary: semi-traditional construction
In between, we find semi-traditional construction. It is an intermediate that uses both iron-on adhesives and a horsehair bib, mounted in the traditional way. Once again, you will find the clearest and most precise description on Julien's blog.
Durability (and price) are also intermediate between the two previous methods.
In my opinion, when you choose a “made-to-measure” suit, you are ready to put your hand in your wallet. So, you might as well see it as an investment , and favor a beautiful suit that will last. It is for this reason that I find semi-traditional construction very satisfactory.
And what Samson proposes...
It is precisely a semi-traditional construction
The small size costume offer
The small measure offer on the French market is regularly enriched, so much so that today, many readers say they are a little lost. It must be said that in this plethora of offerings, we find everything, at all levels of price, quality, and advice.
To see clearly, you have to ask yourself the question: what am I looking for?
Regardless of the price range, there are two things that ready-to-wear cannot offer you and that can be found in half measures.
Firstly, tailor-made allows you to realize all your desires, fabrics of all thicknesses, all patterns, all colors and of course infinite customizations . Most brands have enough fabric references for you to make your choice, but the quality of the fabrics varies from one draper to another.
However, as you might expect, the vast majority of suits sold are blue or gray . In other words, fabrics that are not radically different from what you can find ready-to-wear.
But then, what motivates the half-measure purchase? In my opinion, this is where the real expectation lies: the hope of a perfect result .
For my part, I made several somewhat original customization choices, including a very high waist and tightening clips at the belt.
And indeed, the result is often up to par, “perfect” (depending on your level of requirement) or at least a more precise result than a ready-to-wear suit. This is particularly true for people with slightly unusual body shapes.
For a nickel-chrome result, it is crucial to precisely adjust the pattern to the measurements, but also to understand the person's posture .
Two people can have identical measurements, however if one has a straight back while the other has very hollow backs and hunched shoulders , the suit of one will not fit the other . (Costumes are not exchanged like Dragon Ball Z cards!) This notion of posture is very important, because it is not always mastered or taken into account by brands.
Let's attack our main course, as the English say meat and potatoes... How is the half-measure offer segmented?
The tailor-made suit on the Internet
This is the cheapest offer on the market. The tailor-made suit brands “all on the Internet” offer unbeatable prices. On the other hand, there is no try-on before purchase and in practice you must take your own measurements and record them in a table on the Internet. You also choose the material, without touching it, from photos.
What characterizes this offer is the total absence of support . Ultimately, it's not that different from making a ready-to-wear purchase on the Internet in an online store. The slightest error in taking measurements can turn into a disaster, and it is impossible to take into account the way in which the person stands (correct measurement is a skill in itself, it is not done in your room with your big sister).
At this price, the construction is heat-sealed, and the manufacturing is Asian.
My opinion: this is the riskiest choice , for me taking measurements is a danger, as is choosing the fabric based on a small image. If you have a small budget and a normal body shape, it is much safer to turn to ready-to-wear suit brands such as Danyberd. Try on suits at a few boutiques, and your perseverance will be rewarded when you find the fit that suits you.
Made-to-measure suits in stores by people who know little about the profession
This is the entry level of tailor-made , you are accompanied by someone either in store or by appointment.
At this price, you will have the chance to have your measurements taken by someone trained to do so. However, do not imagine that a young salesman-measure-taker has the knowledge of the trade of an old tailor. Without a precise understanding of the patronage, the latter will be adjusted approximately . Often, the brand prefers to offer a suit that will approximately please the customer, rather than taking the risk of bending too much (by wanting to adjust the pattern too much) which would involve having to completely redo the suit, if the suit delivered does not satisfy the customer. customer.
You will first try on a first costume in store. The pattern for this costume will serve as a basis for the adjustments to be made. Be careful about the size that is considered to be the right one for you . If you are a size 46 and the adjustments are made based on a 48, your suit, although tailor-made, has every chance of being too big on arrival.
“But wait, the store staff are qualified, it’s safe, right? »
Precisely, it is in this price range that you risk meeting people who lack experience. The best way to avoid disappointment is to communicate a lot with the person caring for you. Don't hesitate to ask lots of questions, and explain several times what you like, if you want a very fitted, very short jacket, it's possible, but you have to say it clearly. If you feel like the 46 will fit better than the 48, ask to try it on.
Here again, the construction is heat-sealed, the manufacturing workshops are found almost everywhere from Asia to Eastern Europe.
My opinion: In summary, the cut is not extremely precise, the quality not at the top. But you have the ability to customize your costume as much as you want, which is pretty cool. The average customer, poorly educated on the issue, accustomed to ready-to-wear suits that are not very well cut, will see a difference.
There is positive and negative feedback depending on the level of customer requirements in terms of cut and finish . How is this done? It's very simple, the entry level for these brands is often very attractive, €300 or €400, but if you choose prettier fabrics the prices can easily climb to €500 or €600 and the cut, remains approximate. Except that at this price we can start to be really demanding, because we are already very close to the prices offered in the range just above.
The tailor-made suit in store by people who know the profession very well
This is typically the offer proposed by Samson.
A semi-canvass construction for the durability of the suit, and a very careful half-measure for a very precise fit.
My opinion: It is the assurance of the result of obtaining a very beautiful suit that will last. For me it's good quality at the right price.
Made-to-measure suits by people whose job it is, i.e. tailors
It is difficult for me to imagine the level of precision in this range which I imagine, however, to be a little above that practiced in the previous range. This is an offer offered by real artisan tailors like Julien Scavini or Michael Onhona .
My opinion: For purists who cannot yet afford high quality.
I have understood the different ranges, which door should I knock on?
Apart from the price level there is a crucial criterion that you must consider: the style of the tailor or the brand you are speaking to.
Some brands have a very Italian DNA in their blood, others are much more English like Artling , some want to be modern while others claim a particular aesthetic like that of the 1930s at Marc Guyot . The question you need to ask yourself: are you more “Pitti Uomo” or “Royal Family of England”?
At Samson, the style is rather Italian and modern, but you can of course achieve whatever you want there. Read our article on great suit styles here.
This distinction in style is, however, less present for entry-level offers, which very often do not have a well-defined style, but on the contrary present themselves as knowing how to do everything.
How does this happen in practice: choice, measurement, and fittings
Choice of fabric
It all starts with the choice of fabric, Samson only offers fabrics from Italian mills Vitale Barberis Canonico . A prestigious Italian house 350 years old, which I invite you to discover through the beautiful film below.
There are different price levels depending on the quality of the fabric, from €650 to €950, and no, it's absolutely not worth it to buy an expensive fabric to have a beautiful suit. We are talking about fabrics which are all of very good quality.
If you want to know more about how we evaluate the quality of a fabric, Stephan, who started his professional life as a fabric representative, distinguishes three things:
- The fineness of the wool (super 120's, 140's...). Note from Nicolas: the bigger the number, the more fragile it is
- The twist of the thread which gives the fabric's wrinkle-resistance ability.
- The blanketing (number of threads per centimeter), which indicates the density of the fabric and therefore its durability.
To find out more, read the article dedicated to the subject on his blog “ Super 100's, 120's, 140's... What does that really mean? »
You will of course take several samples of different fabrics in hand, do not hesitate to wear them in the light of day. This is an opportunity to discuss the context in which you want to wear the costume and your expectations.
Zoom on the chosen fabric, I really like this very small square which has more character than a plain fabric.
Taking measurements
This is followed by the fitting of a suit that we lend you which will serve as a reference for taking measurements.
The measurement is quick and painless, it's an opportunity to discuss a lot, Stephan asks a lot of questions: do you like very fitted jackets, the waist of the pants, rather natural or a little lower, a very structured shoulder ?
Of course all these questions come with a lot of advice. If you are talkative and curious, these tips will be accompanied by many anecdotes about the tailoring profession and Stephan's experience in textiles.
I encourage you to ask as many questions as possible , to communicate about your wearing habits and the result you want to obtain. The goal: don’t leave any innuendo.
Single pocket, double pocket, slanted or straight? So many questions that will be asked to you, and each time, the opportunity for you to gather good advice
Stephan took care of my measurements, and since he can't be in all his stores at once, there is no guarantee that in a Samson store he will be the one to take care of it. For this reason I would like to emphasize the fact that the store staff at Samson is made up only of highly qualified people, with a solid technical background as a model maker, costume designer or canvas designer . As I explained to you above, this is what makes a big difference in terms of cutting precision.
Once the measurement is completed, everything is recorded on a technical sheet with the reference of the chosen fabric and the workshop in Italy takes over.
The fitting
A few weeks after the measurement, I saw Stephan again for a first fitting.
I already find the costume very successful. Objectively, the cut is very beautiful, very fitted as I wanted, but Stephan wants to go even further, and suggests some alterations.
We take the bending a little again (we remove 5 mm without changing anything in terms of comfort), and we rotate the shoulder a little bit as if it were of no importance even though it is still an operation. difficult to retouch. Finally we release a little material at the waist to breathe better.
The suit was delivered after alterations and I am very satisfied with it, the bend was literally adjusted to the millimeter for a very marked size, but without discomfort.
On each shoulder, a well-defined line
The upper back is perfectly flat
Some photos of the finishes for the geekiest among you
Two things to look at, the pocket is directly cut into the fabric and there is a small excess of lining which reinforces the jacket under the armpit
There you are looking at the half-moon stopping point of a jacket pocket. It is difficult to see because the stitch of the thread is about the same size as the square of the fabric
I wish I could also show you how stiff the waistband of the pants is. It is lined with horsehair fabric for good hold and to be more rigid. When you press it it immediately springs back into place.
Do you know more about the tailor-made suit offer?
In conclusion, I hope to have shed real light on the French tailor-made offer. The costume being a very structured and codified piece, there are many things to think about and be vigilant .
However, don't forget that making a tailor-made suit is above all a pleasure, don't worry too much once you have found the right person.
For further...
- Stephan's blog , not often updated but there are interesting articles, the one on the qualities of fabrics or on wedding suits , for example,
- The website , where you will find, among other things, store addresses and the lookbook for a little inspiration.
- The article on the tailor-made suit offer in Paris .
And of course I await your comments :)
