Sewing: how to repair a knitted garment?

Couture : comment réparer un vêtement en maille ?

Young reckless geek, I warn you. If you failed here because you were Googling how to repair chainmail damaged by sword thrusting, you just have to turn back. Other experts will give you much better information than me!

Note from Geoffrey: although, it's not that easy to find resources on how to repair a sweater, or the address of a stitcher, quite simply .

However, this is a post that will tell you lots of other interesting things, including how to mend holes in your knitwear.

HOW IS A KNIT GARMENT DESIGNED?

As opposed to fabrics made of weft threads and warp threads (like the fabric of a suit or a shirt for example), by knit we mean any garment whose fabric is made up of a surface knitted in a more or less fine.

mesh diagram

We talk about “mesh”, English speakers talk about “knitwear”.

There are a multitude of ways to knit stitches together. Each knitting stitch has a particular name (Roger, Marcel, Patrick...), and it is the way of alternating the stitches between them which shapes the final appearance of the surface.

mesh assembly<!--nl-->

Left: reverse stockinette stitch
Right: stockinette stitch
Bottom: ribs, formed by regular alternation
reverse stockinette stitches and right stockinette stitches

Knitwear has the particularity of being naturally breathable, supple and stretchy. These properties make it pleasant to wear on the one hand, but fragile on the other. The mesh is all the more vulnerable as the wire links can be easily snagged, pulled, or sheared.

Fortunately, alteration in a knit fabric rarely means the end of the garment's life . Obviously, this means settling his score without delay.

moliere<!--nl-->

© Wolfgang Amadeus Molière, in “The Wedding of Gorafi”

Now, there's nothing like a practical case to illustrate this post.

A while ago, while inspecting one of my cardigans in the daylight, I discovered two small holes close together in the back panel. “Sacrebleu!”, I exclaimed.

mesh holes

I immediately thought it was an insect since there were two holes side by side. But I changed my mind: the garment being placed on a hanger, and my locker room being perfectly clean, the hole was necessarily of mechanical origin.

Note from Geoffrey: fold your mesh and store it, but do not hang it on a hanger. You risk damaging it, and above all, it relaxes under its weight .

light

© This is where the idea of ​​writing this article appeared to me, like my bright destiny at the end of a dark tunnel.

Using the example of this cardigan, here is the procedure to follow to give your knitted clothes a new life (yes, like in Mario).

REPAIR A KNIT GARMENT: HOW TO PATCH A HOLE

Survival sewing equipment no longer holds any secrets for you after you have made a hem and sewn a few buttons . And since you are serious guys, you equipped yourself with a needle and thread before you even started reading the article.

But be careful: the thread must be the same color (or failing that, a little darker) as the fabric to be repaired.

method

© Note from Geoffrey: I think Romain engaged in a dubious humorous competition with me.

In theory, your exercise consists of superimposing the diagram of the warp and weft threads on the diagram of the broken stitch in order to consolidate it.

In practice, it involves stitching with the needle a series of stitches in one direction, then a series of stitches in the perpendicular direction, trying to alternate as much as possible a passage above and below the first series of points. As in the gentleman’s drawing:

sewing method

The work is done on the back of the garment, that is to say on the inside. Precision is not a fundamental parameter in that we can be satisfied with having points which are not exactly parallel to each other and which do not end up at the same level.

On the other hand, you must be careful that the points are as little visible as possible on the right side of the garment , that is to say on the outside, where you make the jam stains.

sewing method

-> Start with a stopping point - ie stitch several times in the same place - then make parallel stitches while remaining flexible in the tension of the thread (this flexibility is the key to success, it will ensure you happiness and success).

sewing method<!--nl-->

-> When the hole has enough parallel stitches, slide the needle through the stitches, perpendicular to the direction of the first stitches.

sewing method

-> Make a series of parallel stitches again, remaining flexible and trying to alternate as much as possible the passages above and below the first series of stitches. End the work with a breakpoint.

sewing method

-> If you have worked hard, the work is almost invisible on the spot.

Note: to practice distinguishing the wrong side and right sides of the stockinette stitch, have fun distinguishing the difference in stitches between the last photo and the previous ones.

MESH WIRE PULLED, WHAT DO WE DO IN A CASE LIKE THIS?

When the buckle of my bag disfigured my teddy a real stitcher for that (also called a stopper).

TOUCHER FOR KNITTED CLOTHING: DOES IT EXIST?

There are many professionals for altering knitted clothing but they are difficult to find. Generally speaking, modifying the cut of a knitted garment is more delicate than working with a conventional fabric.

Note from Geoffrey: But it's not necessary either, because a knit is flexible: you can easily go from one size to another without it really being visible (with warp and weft, it's a any other business!). And the voluminous appearance of the knit is also what makes it charming. In the case of a stitch, be careful not to fall into overthinking !

If you have references for stitchers and retouchers, do not hesitate to share them in the comments.

NOT FORGETTING OUR OWN SWEATERS AND CARDIGANS...

On the menu of sweaters and cardigans at BonneGueule, it's extrafine merino, superyak and baby alpaca. All knitted without a single cut of scissors (traditional "fully fashioned" assembly) in our workshop in Venice.

Roman,

Founder of the podcast on men's fashion Modcast, I write articles for Bonnegueule in my spare time, when I'm not on stage with Les Franglaises. Find my news on Minitel and for the more old school among you, on Facebook, Instagram and on Twitter.

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