Tips: How to wear a wool coat? (feat. BG-2.4)

The coat is a classic in men's wardrobe , particularly anchored in sartorial culture. It is a masculine and elegant piece, which brings a lot of style to the wearer.

In this regard, the coat was originally a sign of social distinction, specific to the most fortunate. In ancient times, it was worn to distinguish the free citizen from the slave, and there was a time when it was reserved for nobles!

Louis XIV coat

Louis XIV and his famous royal ermine-lined coat.

The BG-2.4 coat is a double-breasted coat. It was from the Victorian era that people began to wear this type of coat. Then it became popular and became the symbol of elegance that we know today.

Victorian double-breasted coat

A brief overview of "typical" male outfits in 19th century London, we can indeed see the preponderance of double-breasted jackets and coats.

Over the decades, the lines have of course been modernized - notably through shorter lengths and closer-to-the-body cuts - but this type of coat remains timeless.

How to choose a double-breasted coat for men?

Before getting to the heart of the matter, you should know that the choice of a coat must be made according to three criteria.

1 - The right length

Who says long piece, says sense of proportion. In order not to alter your silhouette, make sure that the coat stops above the knee .

It's the ideal length, the one that will suit everyone. The big pitfall to avoid is a coat that hits you right on the knee. The result is then unsightly.

Below the knees, it's complicated too, unless you're tall.

Men's coat too long

The trench coat is certainly not a coat, but this example speaks for itself (and the rule is the same). The piece worn here is very long, the whole thing is imposing, we then lose the sense of proportion of the model. Not to mention that for some, it's a length that can be quite anxiety-provoking, with the famous question "won't it slim my figure?"

When it comes to shoes, we often hear that certain pairs do not lend themselves to a slightly long coat. It's much simpler than that , but don't panic, we'll come back to it later.

2 - A deep color

You already know very well by now, the most versatile colors in men's wardrobe are gray and navy blue ( and not black ). Unsurprisingly, these are the colors you should go for, since they will match most of your clothes.

If your budget allows it, it is entirely possible to opt for other colors (khaki, beige, brown, mustard, burgundy), but it is better to consider these choices for a second coat. You will be able to add fantasy to your outfits, as you wish.

Little tip: That said, it's also interesting to play originality with the least expensive pieces of the outfit with - in descending order - pants, shirt, t-shirt, scarf, small accessories...

red men's coat

We are facing a beautiful color, no doubt about it. However, this may be complicated to wear and match every day, hence the interest in navy blue and gray.

3 - A natural, dense, and solid material

Once again, nothing new: favor natural materials as much as possible which will keep you warm , whereas mixtures with polyester will not regulate heat well (try wearing thin synthetic socks in winter, you will see what I mean talk).

You will often come across 80% wool/20% polyester blends, the latter sometimes aiming to provide support but the must is still 100% wool sheet .

If you have a budget, wool blends with cashmere, alpaca or mohair are the best, but be careful, these are pieces that easily exceed a thousand euros.

Conversely , avoid pieces made of more than 70% synthetic: they will age extremely poorly, will make you sweat, and will therefore do little to protect you from the cold (what a paradox!).

How to wear a double-breasted coat for men?

Idea #1 – The double-breasted coat in an elegant look

I told you in the intro, the double-breasted coat is a key winter piece of sartorial culture: it is therefore very intuitive (and easy) to combine it with a suit. This is the kind of look that will make you stand out.

Open BG Coat and Suit 1

The different pieces making up the look complement each other very naturally: suit and double-breasted coat, a sure value. Important note: yes, you can wear a suit with the BG coat. (Gantt Rugger suit, Office Artist shirt, Bruce Fields tie)

This being said, you have to be careful when layering two shouldered pieces : make sure that the shoulder of the jacket is placed well under that of the coat, otherwise it will quickly become uncomfortable. Also remember to pull the sleeves of the jacket tight when putting on the coat, which will help in this regard.

BG coat and tie

Open BG Coat and Suit 2

Even without a tie, the ensemble remains no less elegant. Special mention to Florian and his usual hair charisma. He also wears a jacket under the coat. (Mark McNairy derby)

Once again, it is an assembly without great difficulty. And the original shoes enhance the ensemble which would be a little too "prime" in the blues if they weren't there.

The navy blue of the coat goes with most suit colors, you have little chance of going wrong!

Little advice: it is better not to zip up your jacket or blazer, this could hinder your movements (especially when you get up or sit down).

Idea #2 – The double-breasted coat in a casual outfit

This may leave you doubtful, but it is an interesting combination because it amounts to offsetting a more formal piece, and allows for contrasts in styles.

Especially since the mixed trench/pea coat style of our coat is reminiscent of the piece's slight marine origin.

Opt for good jeans or chinos (choose them thick to cope with the cold), a pair of sneakers, and that's it. It's also a good plan for those mornings when all you want is to be in a comfortable outfit.

Closed BG coat - chinos - sneakers 1

Alexandre wears the coat with a pair of low sneakers. Without the coat, his look would be decidedly casual, but he uses it to structure everything.

The set of pieces remains balanced, and we notice that the mere presence of the coat is enough to bring a certain sophistication, without really requiring effort.

open BG coat - chinos - sneakers 2

The effect is even more accentuated once the coat is opened! In terms of accessories, don't overdo it to maintain a form of "nonchalance". A knitted hat will fit perfectly, while keeping you warm. (Adidas Stan Smith sneakers, Carhartt chinos, BGH shirt, GAP sweater and Six&Sept hat)

What shoes to wear with a coat?

I would like to take this opportunity to divulge the high-top shoes that can be worn with a long coat.

Unlike a pair of boots which would be a continuation of the coat, high sneakers would look too much , which would give a less harmonious result. Thus, combat boots/workboots , ankle boots and other indy boots are suitable without problem.

If you value your sneakers, opt for low-tops or, if you choose to wear a high model, leave your pants on top!

Idea #3 – The double-breasted coat in a casual outfit

closed BG coat - raw jeans - Lanvin sneakers

I'm wearing a Monsieur London scarf and gloves, a MELINDAGLOSS denim jacket (it's spelled like that now), BonneGueule jeans and a pair of Lanvin sneakers. In addition to the overall line of the silhouette which is respected, the lighter shade of the sneakers brightens up the whole.

You can even go as casual as wearing a denim jacket underneath, with indigo having the added advantage of complementing the navy blue of the coat.

Open BG coat - denim jacket - raw denim

To prevent my look from seeming too monochrome, I play with the textures of the different elements to add relief. I'm wearing a scarf (handwoven) and gloves from Monsieur London , BG jeans, a BGBJ sweatshirt and a Melinda Gloss denim jacket.

Idea #4 – The double-breasted coat in a look with more raw influences

This type of piece goes very well with textured sweaters and chunky knit cardigans, this assembly brings a raw dimension to your look.

Especially since it's super comfortable. Geoffrey is warm, and with his old Heschung rangers, he can indulge in his great passion: walking in puddles.

closed BG coat and Heschung combat boots

open BG coat - large knit - combat boots 1

BonneGueule cardigan, shirt and t-shirt, Marchand Drapier pants and Heschung combat boots.

heschung boots

Just like the chunky knit of the cardi and the wool of the coat, the patinated leather of the combat boots gives character to the outfit (they have not worn out in 4 years of puddles and salty snow: only the leather has patinated) .

Idea #5 – The double-breasted coat in a minimalist look

If you're not into chunky knits, do like Rémi (our beard rep) and opt for rough wool pants. The material retains a raw look, and what's more, creates a reminder of that of the coat.

open BG coat - wool pants - combat boots

Rémi, who is very tall and thin, can easily wear the legendary Common Project combat boots with this coat. The worked side of these two pieces contrasts well with the relaxed look of the sweatshirt. (Common Project combat boots, COS pants, Uniqlo cashmere sweatshirt)

Little tip: the secret of this look is both a sufficiently tight bottom of the pants, and a monochrome of dark colors (and note that there are no black clothes apart from the shoes: the result is It's even more subtle!).

We see that the two styles mix well, and that the raw side of the look nicely echoes the military inspirations of the coat. However, a good bend in the coat is necessary to structure the silhouette .

closed BG coat - wool pants - combat boots

Here, we see that the buttons are placed in a slight “V” in order to gently emphasize the middle.

Wear accessories with a double-breasted coat for men

With your coat closed, the only visible part of the top of your outfit is the collar of your shirt. This area will therefore be highlighted. This is the opportunity to play with it, by introducing a tie for example.

A pretty model will enhance your look, don't hesitate to play with the colors (the navy blue shade of the coat allows you to), and with the texture effects to contrast with the woolen cloth.

open BG coat and tie

The advantage of a tailored collar on a coat is that it is perfectly comfortable with a shirt and a tie!

If you don't like/don't have to wear ties, you can also rely on scarves. Beyond just the aesthetic criterion, it's a good way to play with proportions and add volume to very slender body types , particularly if you use one that is long. Also take advantage of this to introduce touches of color that will brighten up your looks!

closed BG coat and scarf

Don't be afraid of brightly colored accessories, they fit perfectly with sober colors.

BG coat and Mr London scarf

By staying in the blues, it is also possible. The touches of color on the Monsieur London scarf add a more colorful touch. But the materials must still contrast to highlight each other.

BG coat and accessories

In addition to a tie or scarf, if you look determined while wearing a coat, even better! Even if it’s when you see the bakery...

Photo-article launch

The French wool double-breasted coat is now available

You can now order:

Benoît Wojtenka Benoît Wojtenka
Benoit Wojtenka, co-founder

I founded BonneGueule.fr in 2007. Since then, I have been helping men build their style by providing them with clear and practical advice, but also more advanced thinking. I also like techwear, Japanese materials, sports and tea.

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