Have you ever stopped in front of a jewelry store window and admired its contents? The work of art, the creativity, the imagination that certain pieces exude...
However, wearing jewelry, very little for you!
Well, this article aims to change your mind . A vast project, I agree, but I will do my best.
And for those in the know, you will surely find in these few lines, inspiration or information that can help you in your search for the perfect accessory.
NB: I will not mention watches here because previous articles are dedicated to them.
It's beautiful, it goes with everything and it can save your style. Well, it’s not Karl who wants it, it’s true!
I'll tell you a secret: I'm a recent convert myself. A lover of clothing experiments, I was less so when it came to accessories. Recently, and thanks to the kindness of my fabulous friends at BonneGueule (thanks again to you), I acquired my first silver bracelet. Chilly at first, I started to wear it, to get used to it, to let myself be seduced...
I then bought new jewelry: bracelets, rings (soon necklace?), becoming fascinated by their design, the creation techniques, the symbolism they express. Because in fact, I believe that, even more than clothes, jewelry conveys an aura that is completely unique to the person who wears it.
JEWELRY AND MEN
Men's jewelry hasn't always been taboo. History bears witness to a certain enthusiasm among the male sex for ornaments and finery, sometimes even more demonstrative than among women.
Everywhere and for a long time, from Antiquity to the Renaissance, including the Middle Ages, men wore jewelry - sometimes very showy - to assert their social status among their peers.
Example of a male gold pectoral worn in Egypt during Antiquity.
In ancient Egypt, all men wore jewelry. The most modest were content with small amulets while the richest wore bulky jewelry on their chests, rings (sometimes several on each finger) or cuffs in gold and various gems (turquoises from Sinai, lapis lazuli from Afghanistan).
The Romans, less extravagant, however, had the habit of wearing rings, breastplates and precious necklaces. Certain jewelry could indicate military affiliation.
Example of a medieval pin: a true work of goldsmith, this improved pin was in frequent use at that time.
From the Middle Ages to the Renaissance , each period was marked by a particular practice of ornament, both among men and women. Byzantine influence had the effect of popularizing the most sumptuous ornaments for those who could afford them. However, it was customary to wear jewelry on clothes rather than on oneself. This period saw the democratization of the clasp, also called a clasp, a sort of brooch used to hold the two sides of the cape or coat.
Depending on the era, they represented flowers, animals or even mottos or coats of arms. If the most powerful ecclesiastical castes always had the habit of wearing jewelry (large gold crosses, various hierarchical rings), the secularists for their part followed the fashion of the time, often dictated by royalty.
Some sovereigns like Louis IX (very pious, also known as Saint Louis) were quite reluctant to all forms of pomp, while other kings, like Charles VI were much more fond of this type of frivolity.
Nose ornament from Western India worn by an Indian prince, between 1925 and 1950: gold, diamonds, pearls and emeralds. So, where do we draw the line between feminine and masculine? Photo from the exhibition “From the Great Mughals to the Maharajahs” at the Grand Palais.
India is another striking example of a culture that has emphasized the wearing of jewelry among men. Indeed, the jewelry sector flourished there from the 14th century, at the time of the Great Mughals who personally financed this economy. These creations are among the most accomplished at the time, India enjoying particular know-how in this area as well as deposits suitable for the production of luxurious jewelry.
Emperors and local nobility adorn themselves with turban decorations, bracelets, necklaces, rings and other ornaments made of gold and precious stones. The 19th century and the advent of the British Raj (the establishment of the British colonial regime) will be a second era of great splendor for Indian fine jewelry.
Indian princes, stripped of all power, continued to assert their influence through ever more sumptuous ornaments, mixing Indian tradition and Western influence.
Excerpt from the film "La Parure" taken from the eponymous short story by Maupassant, telling the story of a couple falling into lifelong debt after losing a diamond river borrowed during a social evening.
At the time of the industrial revolution, jewelry gradually disappeared from masculine attributes. The height of machismo, we prefer to offer our wife luxurious pieces of jewelry to then showcase our success and fortune in society.
Synonymous with wealth and therefore power, jewelry has always had a strong social value. Even more, they were considered mystical objects, most associated with magical powers or supposed esoteric properties. Whether it is the culture of symbols or the power of stones, there are many beliefs linked to jewelry...
JEWELRY FOR EVERYONE
Curious to really understand why men wore so little jewelry, I undertook a little investigation of those around me. Of course, this does not constitute a representative sample of the population but can still provide some answers.
To the question “why don’t you wear jewelry?” » I was often told: too overtones, too feminine, flashy or worse , “not for me”. Simple but concise as an answer. Does this mean that some men are born to wear jewelry and others are not?
Finally, and as always, jewelry is associated with social considerations that are well anchored in our heads, with imagery that is as old as it is outdated.
A symbol of power and wealth, jewelry is exclusionary. Almost banned from men's locker rooms for more than two centuries (and reserved for women), it is feminine and therefore sexually charged.
Wearing jewelry does not necessarily mean losing your virility, like Johnny Depp here.
However today, these psychological barriers tend to disappear. There is a growing resurgence of men's interest in jewelry and, as gender considerations break down, many designers are entering the thriving men's jewelry market. And believe me, this trend is only just beginning!
DIFFERENT JEWELRY FOR MEN
“But then, you ask me, how do you wear jewelry when you’re a man?” I'm coming !
First of all, know that, when it comes to jewelry, the only rule is in fact that there is none... or almost!
No... that's definitely not the result we're looking for here.
Of course, certain instructions may need to be followed to avoid turning into a real Christmas tree or a sad replica of Puff Daddy...
Jewelry is an accessory of no practical use. Their only interest therefore lies in what they say about you, about your personality. Wearing jewelry means choosing to express something special and profound.
In fact, there is no real fashion for jewelry. When there are a few currents, most often, they become exhausted and quickly become anachronistic or even out of date.
As here, jewelry adorns certain parts of the body. They draw the eye towards these areas, enhancing them.
Here are some basic questions that I answer to allow you to calmly take your first steps into the wonderful world of jewelry. Let's go !
CAN YOU WEAR SEVERAL JEWELRY AT A TIME?
Too much? Question of perspective.
Yes of course ! A ring, a bracelet, a necklace… why not mix it all? It all depends on your style. A man who loves jewelry and has a confident style will find it easier to stack bracelets on his wrist or wear several rings on each hand. Just be careful never to overdo it, otherwise there is a risk that you will no longer be able to distinguish any of your beautiful accessories because there are so many of them.
GOLD OR SILVER?
According to popular belief, gold goes more to tanned skin and silver to pale skin. Yes and no. Here again, be careful not to restrict yourself; above all, you must like the jewelry. While it is true that gold has a more “bling bling” connotation, it all depends on how you wear it. Believe me, if your accessory is in poor taste, those around you will surely let you know.
HOW TO RECOGNIZE A REAL GOLD OR SILVER JEWELRY?
In jewelry, there are many counterfeiters who offer pieces in supposed “gold” or “silver”. How many have found themselves disappointed to see their superb “solid silver” ring begin to rust in just a few weeks...
If it remains difficult for a layman to distinguish the true from the false, here are some tips that could be useful to you to avoid this type of disappointment.
FOR MONEY...
But what do we mean by massive silver? It is actually a material made of at least 80% pure silver. Another metal is often added, generally copper, to guarantee the solidity of the piece, because silver alone would be too flexible and risk quickly being damaged.
The best known types of silver are 800 (depending on the proportion of silver contained, here 80%), 950 (95%) and, the most common, 925 silver (92.5%) or sterling silver . Silver pieces most often include a hallmark attesting to their authenticity (hidden in an invisible corner of the jewelry such as the inside of a ring or the clasp of a bracelet or necklace).
Also note that for the same size, silver jewelry will be heavier than another alloy. Also be wary of jewelry that is too shiny. Silver usually has a slightly dull gray appearance which, over time, will tend to darken as it oxidizes. That's a pretty good sign.
Demonstration of the money magnet test. Indeed, and as with gold, it is not a magnetic metal. So it's not supposed to move.
For those who are more suspicious, other checks can be carried out. Get a magnet and test it on your part. Silver should not move while other alloys composed mainly of iron or steel for example will immediately stick to it.
You can also try the acid method. You must rub the jewel with a so-called touchstone then place a drop of an acid solution on it. If it becomes grayish or white, it is indeed silver. If it blackens or takes on a greenish color, it is a poor alloy. At the risk of seeing your pretty piece of jewelry become unwearable if it is faulty.
FOR GOLD...
Gold is a precious metal, the weight of which is defined by carats. A piece is considered to be gold if it has a weight equal to or greater than 10 carats (and up to 24, up to 99.9% pure gold). 18 carat is the best compromise.
Here again, it is very difficult to recognize a real gold jewelry. But as with silver, genuine coins are hallmarked and, being non-magnetic, will not be attracted if you stick it to a magnet. Likewise, real gold does not fade over time (unlike simple gold plating).
Of course, and because we don't all have at home the paraphernalia of the perfect little chemist, favor safe purchases by going directly to real jewelry stores or from designers.
You will immediately know what you are buying, the percentage of gold, silver and other metal present in the composition of the alloy. And often, you will come away with a certificate of authenticity, guaranteeing you additional security.
Here is the summary table of the different official hallmarks used in France, guaranteeing that they are indeed precious metals (source: French customs)
PETER OR NOT PETER?
“Diamonds are a girl's best friend” sang Marilyn. Couldn't it be the same for men? So of course, I'm not asking you to come home tomorrow, river of diamonds hanging around your neck. However, a few precious or semi-precious stones can considerably increase the cachet of your jewelry.
Native American-inspired jewelry (or authentic Native American jewelry) can be perfect for anyone looking to mix originality and masculinity like Alois Bruno in this photo. Credits: Alois Bruno.
There are four types of stones used in jewelry.
- Precious stones: here we are talking about the rarest and purest minerals. These are diamond, sapphire, ruby and emerald.
- Fine stones: these are all other less noble ornamental stones used in jewelry. Among the dozens of examples, we retain turquoise, malachite, tanzanite, melanite, microcline, morganite, tiger's eye, olioclase, onyx, opal, agate or 'aquamarine.
- Organic gems: these are not minerals strictly speaking but resistant organic materials that can be used in the creation of jewelry. These include amber, coral, abalone, pearl or jet.
Given the profusion of existing stones, everyone will simply choose the stone that they like best. Some of them, like labradorite, have the characteristic of slightly changing color after exposure to the sun. As explained above, certain stones are also likely to bring luck, protection or good health.
As an example, here are the gems I prefer:
LABRADORITE
History ?
Name derived from the Labrador region in Canada where missionaries who came to evangelize the Inuit found them for the first time in the 18th century. Inuit legends say that this stone is in fact an aurora borealis which would have frozen with the cold. Another version says that, on the contrary, a warrior struck an enormous labradorite with his spear and the Northern Lights escaped.
Where is it found?
Deposits are found in the northern regions of Canada, Finland, Norway, Russia, Ukraine but also some deposits in France.
Supposed virtues?
It is believed to have medicinal properties, particularly with regard to blood circulation and digestion problems. It would also have powers of purification and regeneration of the soul.
How do I wear it?
In order to have a truly beautiful result and to highlight all the personality of a real labradorite, I am thinking of wearing it set on a fairly simple silver signet ring. In this way, it is highlighted and an integral part of a very personal piece of jewelry that I could see myself wearing every day.
Two models from the Tant d'Avenir brand that you will discover in more detail at the bottom of the article.
TURQUOISE
History ?
Used more than 2000 years ago by the ancient peoples of Egypt and Persia, turquoise was extracted from deposits in Iran or the Sinai region. It was often considered a stone representative of the gods, symbolizing the heavens and serving as protection.
It was used both to create small amulets and large ornaments, and even in architecture to create marquetry in the largest Persian palaces. On the other side of the world, pre-Columbian cultures used it in particular in the creation of ritual objects.
Where is it found?
There are numerous deposits of turquoise in the Middle East (Turkey, Iran, Israel) but also in Mexico and the United States.
Supposed virtues?
It would soothe various muscle pains and have a significant effect on the wearer's general state of health.
How do I wear it?
I would wear it more on a cuff type bracelet in addition to other stones with which it would go well such as red coral.
An example of a bracelet with turquoise from Harpo.
AMBER
History ?
Unlike the previous two, amber is not a mineral but an organic gem coming from the fossilization of tree resin, dating back several million years. Some pieces of amber have inclusions of trapped plants, insects or animals. Amber is used in most ancient Nordic, Greek and Roman cultures.
Where is it found?
Amber is quite common. They are found in France, in the countries bordering the Baltic Sea but also in Canada, the Dominican Republic and Mexico.
Supposed virtues?
Symbol of youth, beauty and love, amber is a rather feminine gem. It is also considered in several cultures as a symbol of the solidified tears of a god or goddess. It is a gem which would therefore have an effect on aging.
How do I wear it?
I have yet to find the perfect piece I have in mind. Ideally I would like to find a long necklace with an amber pendant in which any small creature a few hundred or even thousands of years old would be trapped. I'm terrified of insects, so this would be real therapy for me! Otherwise worn in the form of small beads on a very simple bracelet.
Walking around with a fossilized centipede around your neck? What's cooler?
BIG OR NOT BIG?
Let it be said, when you are a guy, you tend to always think “big”. Understand by this: seeing, visible, meaning what! Well when it comes to jewelry that's not a good reflex.
Avoid choosing models that are really too massive which, in addition to not necessarily being very distinguished, could weigh down your silhouette. As for rings, people with thin fingers will avoid large settings and other huge stones.
The question of allergies arises, although they are rare. Gold, silver, copper, steel, brass are considered hypoallergenic. In very rare cases, gold and silver can cause allergies and will require you to avoid wearing jewelry. The real problem often comes from the nickel. Present in many alloys, it is this material which can cause. It is all the more important to be extra vigilant when purchasing because many inexpensive jewelry actually contain a significant percentage of nickel.
Let's now look at the specifics of each type of jewelry that you might wear.
THE BRACELETS
The bracelet is often the first type of jewelry that men turn to when they decide to take the plunge. Less connoted than the necklace, less symbolic than the ring and more common than cufflinks, it will be easier for a novice to make it their own. Especially since a bracelet will easily hide under a jacket or shirt sleeve, if you want to keep it discreet.
- Start with woven or leather bracelets with discreet clasps and an understated design.
- Gradually explore the different styles that you like, avoiding models that are too massive.
- Choose a multitude of different bracelets that will adorn your wrist rather than a single model that is too large.
- In case you are wearing multiple bracelets, try balancing on both arms.
- Do not wear bracelets with a watch as they risk not showing off it.
At what price ?
For simple bracelets, in rope or leather, with a few beads or certain charms you will find beautiful models from 15 or 20 euros. For more elaborate models, in noble leather or metal, with the presence of a clasp, prices will rise to 40 or 60 euros. For all-silver models, prices will most often start at 70 euros.
NECKLACES
As with bracelets, necklaces are easy to hide under a top, becoming a piece of jewelry that is more personal than meant to be seen. However, nothing stops you from proudly wearing it around your neck and showing it off to the world.
It is possible to wear necklaces of fine to medium sizes, more or less showy. The adventurer and hippie inspirations add a touch of the unexpected to a very simple outfit at first glance.
- As with bracelets, choose models of reasonable size. No need to wear an anvil around your neck, it's not flattering. And what's more, it could be dangerous.
- Unlike bracelets, avoid stacking dozens of necklaces. The result could really be too heavy. We can set a limit of three pieces maximum.
- For a bohemian style, choose bi-material necklaces with a leather thread and a metal medallion, a coin for example or a grigri of some kind. Chains can be the best effect for a rawer, more rock look.
At what price ?
The first models, as for the bracelets, will be available at reasonable prices, starting from 30 euros. Depending on the composition, the presence of a medallion, the design and the brand, prices can skyrocket. But you can find very beautiful pieces from 60 or 70 euros.
THE RINGS
Of all jewelry, the ring is probably, in many senses, the most engaging... Fantasized, present in the greatest fictions (from Lord of the Rings to Green Lantern comics), the ring represents power, love, the tradition.
In my opinion, and contrary to what one might believe, the ring is probably the most difficult piece of jewelry to wear. Always very connoted, it refers to an imagination that is either rather feminine or very particular, like the rock world, bling bling or SF fans...
From a simple textured ring to a samurai head setting, you will find many variations of existing rings. Here two models from the Tant d’Avenir brand. While browsing the e-shop, I discovered quite captivating models of rings and necklaces, with varied inspirations - from rock to ancient Greece - and with sober but elaborate designs. And while I was looking for information for my article, I decided to contact Quentin Pontonnier to ask him to talk to me about creation, technique and passion for jewelry.
Quentin, working on one of these unique pieces
So we agreed to meet at his place in the 20th arrondissement of Paris. Chaussette (his cat) and him welcome me into the apartment. Quentin is a surfer, a rocker (at least at heart), an adventurer, an artist (he paints, draws, makes collages, a little photography). But what he does best is definitely jewelry!
Transcription of an inspiring discussion:
Tell me a little about your story, how at only 24 years old, you managed to already be a well-known jewelry designer in Paris with your first boutique which has just opened?
It's a pretty funny story. In fact, it started out of luck! In college I preferred skateboarding and drawing to classes. So after 9th grade I opted for training in applied arts. The Boule school offered specialized training in jewelry through competitive examinations. I ended up on the waiting list. But, on the first day of the school year, the principal called me and told me that I could join the school due to a withdrawal.
Quentin in front of his shop at 46 Rue Godefroy Cavaignac in the 11th arrondissement of Paris
After my training, I went to see the town hall of my district, in the 13th, explaining that, at the age of eighteen, after leaving the École Boule, I wanted to set up my own business. An advisor referred me to an organization, BGE ADIL, which offers young people under the age of twenty-six the opportunity to be followed by an advisor, who explains to us how to make a business plan and what assistance to benefit from.
Following this training I obtained a micro-credit from the bank which allowed me to buy my first workbench and off I went. It was four years ago. And today I have just opened my store, at 46 Rue Godefroy Cavaignac, in the 11th arrondissement of Paris.
You know that we like to advise a wide audience, from the most novice guys in fashion to the most sophisticated. What would you recommend to men who are a little hesitant when it comes to jewelry?
To simply try. When you start wearing jewelry, you quickly realize that it completely changes the aesthetic of your outfit. I call it the detail that kills . Look, in Paris, everyone dresses in black. Add one or two rings and a few bracelets or even a chain or necklace and it works!
I have a lot of guys who come to me and explain that they're not used to it. So I direct them towards discreet and more sober models with elegant patterns, like a Marianne. In the end, many of them end up coming back, buying a second and then a third piece of jewelry. It's quite funny! You really have to take the approach of coming and trying it in the store.
The interior of the Tant d’Avenir store.
What is your relationship with your customers, especially in stores?
I'm taking the time! I love talking to people who come, who want to know the history of a piece of jewelry, who ask lots of questions. It's something important for a creator to share, to explain his approach! Guys can sometimes stay in the store for an hour. Besides, I arranged the place so that it is welcoming, that we feel good there. It's a place that resembles me, like a cabinet of curiosities. We are far from the cold shops on Avenue Montaigne that we barely dare to enter.
Your aesthetic and the symbols you use are original. What intrigued me the most was the coin jewelry. Where do you get your inspiration from?
On the left, the famous model inspired by the Greek Medusa. On the right, two signet rings set with a semi-precious stone. Tant d’Avenir brand.
I appropriated certain symbols from Ancient Greece such as the jellyfish or the columns. I find it very cool to reinvent them, offer them according to my own design. Coins are a practice that dates back to Ancient Rome. We were already making jewelry using coins.
What I really like is traveling! One of my greatest experiences was a motorcycle road trip to the peaks of the Himalayas in India. At altitude, in this region of the world, there are large quantities of different stones used in jewelry. It was there that I noticed their real influence, almost magnetic. So certainly on the scale of a ring it's very little, a placebo, but it remains a reality.
And then, when I create I think first of what I would like to wear, then I expand the offer of course, so that everyone finds something they like. On the other hand, I don't think business! You see, I never tell myself that because skulls sell well I'm going to make lots of skulls. The only one I have is a 17th century double-sided vanity that I made from a painting I did.
What is the sequel to Tant d'Avenir?
I rule out doing a big series. I prefer to stick to reasonable and carefully crafted productions to maintain my level of requirements and quality. Eventually I could relocate production to a larger workshop and take on a team of five or six people.
And above all I will continue to produce in France and locally, it is something important for me. There I'm going to take on an apprentice to help me, but for the moment I'm focusing on my first store. It's already a big challenge.
How did you finally make yourself known? It's super difficult in the middle of lots of other brands, right?
Well, through Instagram and especially by meeting people. Of course, I attended trade shows and markets dedicated to jewelry, but it was by going out, living to the rhythm of the evenings that the brand really grew.
Today some major magazines like Vogue or other smaller but very eclectic publications ask me for jewelry to include in their photo shoot. This is amazing because these magazines often employ world-famous photographers.
