Today I want to talk to you about shoes !
I know that people don't expect much from me in this field, especially after having done a Let's Talk Clothes and a Gimmick on techwear, but I want it, especially because it's a field with a lot of passion and of know-how.
Here I want to talk about dress shoes only, and not sneakers or workwear shoes, and even less flip-flops or espadrilles.
And I'm not going to talk about bootmaking either : bootmaking is the act of making custom-made shoes , therefore the opposite of ready-to-wear, which is also called ready-to-wear. It's exactly like a tailor for a large-scale suit versus a ready-to-wear suit. On to the video.
My rant against dogmas
There is fundamentalism among some shoe lovers and that is what annoys me the most.
Namely dogmas, where any deviation in thought is violently punished !
And the Internet has only made the phenomenon worse, by promoting the unrealistic expectations of some people regarding the budget they have to devote to a pair of shoes .
Concerning myself, I consider myself more of a “researcher” than a “knower” because I consider that one lifetime would not be enough to know everything about shoes .
But be careful, there are also those who pose as big manitous denouncing dogmas, only to erect another one in their place.
In any case, whatever your knowledge, whatever either the pair you wear, you will always have one to tell you that you have been fooled or that you have no taste .
And I'm convinced that in everything I'm going to tell you, the brands I'm going to mention, people will tell me in comments that I have terrible taste , that there are 100 times better for less, etc.
You might think that this is a very gloomy picture that I am painting, but it is not. Because now, place for my cry of love…
An environment of enthusiasts
Because the shoe, they are also super adorable and generous people !
I always have in mind my trip to Northampton with the team of the Point de Paris brand , a lovely brand of enthusiasts who wrote a long article on the genesis of their brand in our columns .
And frankly, while I was the one in the group who knew the least, they were very pedagogical with me .
I learned a ton of stuff, and it was a pleasure to see them expound on an engraved or pasted wall.
And the shoe for me should be that: passion and sharing, and respect for others who have different tastes and knowledge.
And that's a bit of what I want to share with you in my video , this love of know-how, pretty shapes, small niche brands.
What I look for in a pair of shoes
There you will be disappointed…
In reality, now, I do my research on the internet well in advance.
With all the information available, the brands recommended on a recurring basis , honestly it becomes simple to choose a reputable brand and a shape that you like within your budget.
I know that with these brands, there is no risk of having a fake Goodyear for example and I generally know what to expect.
Like I said, I've been to outlet stores in Northampton that sell pairs that haven't passed quality control. In 95% of cases on these pairs, the defect is really minor, you have to be very passionate and experienced to see it.
And in 99% of cases, it is a defect that does not change the durability or shape of the shoe, it is purely an aesthetic defect.
My thoughts were as follows:
Even on shoes that haven't passed quality control, I have trouble seeing the flaws, so I might as well concentrate on simple things, like the quality of the leather, the stitching, the finishes that I like, the shape I like and off we go!
For me, choosing the right brands, knowing them and knowing what to expect in your budget from these brands and what NOT to expect, that's 90% of the job when choosing a pair of shoes.
But am I saying that you have to go by feeling without worrying about technique? NO !
Because rejecting the technical aspect of shoes, for me, is rejecting part of the pleasure of this area .
Unfortunately, the real indicators of care and quality of manufacturing are often hidden, I am thinking in particular of the cleanliness of the seams, or the quality of the mounting wall.
And because for me, even if I accept a factor of chaos and imperfection , I still want to understand what I buy, how it is made, why, the limits to my budget, etc.
So I have an approach that mixes “that’s life, there will always be little flaws” and “I want to understand why life is like that”
What I think about leather defects
Either you live in anxiety saying to yourself “my god I’m going to choose a pair with a micro defect on the leather, everyone will think I’m a loser for having made this choice”
Either you tell yourself that life must continue to live, the sun must continue to rise, and that even there is a trace of vein on leather, a small scar if you stick your nose to it, that does not necessarily taint the durability of the shoe, and that once on the feet, it is no longer visible.
And if you want zero defects, you either have to pay the price, or you simply have to take suede leather or grained leather.
I say it and I say it again, the race for a pair with zero defects in the leather, we cannot win it, in any case I broke away from it, because it is endless.
The walking folds in question
Let's talk about it !
We are so used to seeing photos of absolutely perfect shoes on the networks, brand new, or custom-made shoes, with exceptional leathers that crease very little that as soon as creases appear on a pair for 300€ we have the feeling of having been had.
It's a real problem between the discrepancy of a fantasy shoe on Instagram and reality.
So I will never repeat it, there will always be creases on a shoe worn regularly, end of story.
And even on shoes made by bootmakers or costing more than €1000, it creases too!
Yes, the quality of the leather can come into play, and again, but it is above all if the shape of the shoe is adapted to the foot which will cause more or less marked creases.
Here too, the race for the shoe with zero tread folds, we cannot win it, it is in vain!
I just try to get a shoe where my foot doesn't float at the toes and that already does 80% of the work to limit walking creases .
So the walking crease that will appear on your shoe, consider it an opportunity to work on letting go!
The correct shape of the shoe
I have a foot that is fairly easy to put on, with a normal width and an unsurprising instep, so I've never had any real trouble finding a shoe that fits my foot.
But it's true that there was a time when I really liked very tapered shapes, whereas now I prefer when it's more balanced , a little more rounded, probably because I'm influenced by friends who really like English shoes.
And it's completely OK to have tastes that have evolved, that are evolving and that will evolve, it's just called life.
But if you have a foot that is a little difficult to put on, for example very wide, short, with a strong instep, it is essential to go to brands costing €300 per pair.
English, French or Italian shoes?
As you know, I'm a great generalist and very curious, so I'm going to say that I like all three !
Moreover, this is illustrated by the fact that we have our shoes made:
- in England and at the same time
- in Italy
- and in Portugal for sneakers
In the English shoe, I like:
- the robust and comfortable side of the English shoe,
- with the Dainite sole that fears nothing,
- the gentleman-farmer side of a pair of brogues.
And I also like the racier, more flamboyant side of an Italian shoe.
Besides, my first “real” pair of shoes was an Italian brand called Dario Dodoni that I bought when I was 19, on sale at 50% off at Printemps de Tours. A pair that I still have , a glued one that held up incredibly well, especially considering the bad reputation of this glued one. Like what !
The French shoe is a fair balance between the two, I am thinking in particular of Aubercy which is the brand which best expresses this French DNA, but we will come back to that
For the record, during a rather epic evening with the merry men of the Point de Paris brand, we were at Philippe Atienza's, a great French bootmaker, and after a few drinks, I asked him what was for him a beautiful shape of shoes with French DNA.
He simply replied: “It’s a shape that’s not too pointed, and not too round.” And I think he couldn't sum up the French spirit better!
What color to choose?
So already, I'm not going to make friends, but I'm not a very big fan of black shoes, I think that life is too short to live it with black shoes.
So people will tell me that it’s a huge men’s classic and it’s true !
But I would always prefer a very dark navy blue shoe to a black shoe, I find it more original , more distinguished , while being just as easy to wear, unless you are in an environment with very strict dress codes .
My favorite brands
1. Between €100 and €150
Between € 100 and €150, there is Rudy's. At this price, you still have Portuguese manufacturing and leather. For me, if you have a little budget, I am thinking in particular of students who are going to do their first internship, and you want to test new shapes, or simply to buy a shoe that you will wear occasionally, for example major events three or four times a year, it's a very good option.
Here, on the other hand, you will have to be vigilant about maintenance, particularly regarding the presence of shoe trees, because this will have a huge impact on their aging, for better or worse.
On the other hand, below €100, I don't see what you can buy that still holds water in terms of manufacturing and country of production, you might as well look for second-hand items .
2. Between €150 and €250
Between €150 and €250, it's a price bracket where you start to have a lot of choice, I'm thinking of Meermin , Orban's , Bobbies or Velasca.
Well, it's clear that there are no miracles, you will only have rather simple shapes , very consensual, and without risks, the same for leathers.
We can also look at it on the bright side and say that it is a price range where the offer is simple and effective, and easy to wear .
And once again, if you don't ask for more, or if you are not a big shoe enthusiast, you can absolutely find satisfaction in these price ranges.
This is the range where you have “nice” shoes, period.
But this is not yet where you will be able to experience your first great thrills
3. Between €300 and €400
In the 300 - 400 € ranges, things start to happen, there the first love at first sight can appear...
I find that it's the right sweet spot for a young active person who wants to buy their first real pair of shoes, the one where pleasure is part of the purchase and where the shoe is not (only) seen as a utility object.
I like Septième Largeur, a veteran of “accessible” shoes with whom we did a collab a long time ago.
Besides, I have a pair, eggplant color that I often wear for weddings because they are very pretty.
Then comes M alfroid , where I really appreciate a certain originality, and I really like the fact that he frankly dares to go for very, very casual designs, like this ankle boot that I didn't see coming.
And finally, my little hidden tip is the Monsieur Chaussure brand, a brand that originally sells shoe polish and brushes .
They have their small line of shoes, made by the Carlos Santos workshops,
Charles, the founder, is hugely passionate about shoes, he loves them, he likes sleek shapes, including the eagle's claw.
And I think it's excellent value for money if you want to have visually stronger shoes with a nice visual patina.
There's also Carmina, which is famous, but for me it's a bit too classic. For 2 years, TLB Majjorca has started to have its loyal audience, always in this price range under €400 .
4. Between €500 and €600
Honestly for me, it's a bit of a complicated price range, because this is clearly aimed more at enthusiasts, and I would be hard pressed to answer what justifies it costing twice more expensive than what we have just seen, apart from the country of manufacture.
But that said, I gave in. Yes I fell for it, because two years ago I treated myself to a pair of C rocke t t and Jones, the Islays , those of James Bond in Specter because I found comfort.
And frankly, I don't regret it : I wanted a beautiful, comfortable shoe, with which I can walk for hours even in the rain, with an English flair and a little relaxed, and I got it. I'm super happy with it, and seeing on the forums how the leather ages reassures me a lot about the longevity.
But from Crockett it's perhaps the only pair that I like, because I find the rest really too classic.
And let's mention J acques and D emeter, which manufactures in France, with specific shapes, and above all, which has a great blog.
5. From €800
Around €800, I find that there are quite few brands, apart from Point de Paris . I've already talked about it, this article by Charlie tells their story, it's super interesting and inspiring.
6. More than €1000
Then after we enter the zone of 1000 € per pair.
Well, this is a must-have purchase! This is the real thing and the very, very big thrill, and it's a price range that I like among Italian shoes, because you will see things with a lot of personality like at Di Bianco , Bonafé , or Paolo Scafora.
And in France, there is Aubercy, and it’s important that I tell you about it.
Aubercy, when I settled permanently in Paris, after my return from Montreal, in 2012, it was this address that gave me a lot of interest in shoes again.
We had a mutual acquaintance and above all the store was a stone's throw from our first offices in the Sentier.
Between the stitched welt, the leather buttresses at the arch, I was amazed.
And I understood why it is a passion for some. Because with an Aubercy shoe on your foot, you want to behave like a gentleman, to be very elegant. But true French elegance. And it’s this unique balance that I really like about Aubercy.
I said to myself, finally a French brand with a little originality and very stylish shapes.
Look at this pair! Look at this balance which will still be perfect in 30 years.
I'm anti black shoes, but I'll take them right away.
In short, Aubercy will always have a special place in my heart.
And I can never thank Xavier enough for pushing me to question everything I thought I knew about shoes.
I remember in particular where he showed me a pair of blake welts that were 20 years old, resoled for the third time, an anomaly in my little head from the guy who had read that blake was not good and not durable.
On the English side, there was another brand that I tried , it's Gaziano and Girling. There too , when I put on the shoe, something really happened and I quickly understood why it was a cult brand around the world.
It doesn't look like anything else I've seen in English shoes: it's sleeker, stronger, more daring.
But here too the price easily exceeds €1000
Buying shoes for €1000: heresy?
Besides, I would like to tell you what I think about buying shoes for over €1000.
If you earn a very good living, and this doesn't cause you any problems , it's a good thing because it allows you to support small houses outside of the big luxury groups.
For others, I would say that it is not all black and white .
Yes, it's true that it's an investment, but don't expect to be able to wear them three times as long as a pair of workwear shoes that cost three times less.
That's not the point at all.
But obviously , you buy a resealable pair which can last you 20 years if you maintain them well, so yes, there is quality behind it: these are the finest skins selected, you probably have the best industrial assembly possible, In short, you have a product of undeniable quality.
But above all it is an enormous pleasure that you are buying, that of having a very beautiful shape, and a unique fit , in short a truly unique shoe.
And to finish…
Finally, it is impossible to finish this video without mentioning Hugo Jacomet's book, "Souliers: une passion masculin" , which is a magnificent book to have for Christmas which has the ambition to photograph the most beautiful shoes in the world, which any amateur of shoes should have in his library.
In this video I'm wearing our Steven cardigan and a Barbanera shirt.
