A few months ago, Benoît (still sitting to my left in the office) turned to me and said:
- “Nicolò, would you like to take a trip to England?
- Eh ? Um yes, absolutely! But why ? When do we leave ?
- It's for our new boots... You know shoes well, and you speak perfect English, so I have the pleasure to announce that you are coming with Julien and me to the visit and the shooting at Barker, our maker !"
Obviously, you can imagine that I jumped in my chair for joy...
Frankly, we tell you that you are going to visit the English workshop where we make this, how do you react?
Well I'm going to tell you about this very moving journey in 2 seconds, but first...
A brief shoe glossary in 2 minutes flat
Yes, there's going to be (a little) technique involved, so here's a quick reminder of the important terms to know:
The stem
When you see a shoe in your hand, you see a sole…and the “top”. All this “top”, these pieces of leather sewn together that wrap your foot, is the upper. It's the leather upper, basically.
First edit
Quite simply the first “sole” on which the entire base of the shoe will be mounted. It is cut from a very thick and sturdy piece of leather. It is on her that we will put the wall. And you can't see it on a shoe because it's covered by an "insole", or "comfort insole".
Assembly raw materials, tidy and labeled. Moreover, each of them must be cut using a steel "form"... Which must be built specifically for each shoe shape produced by the factory.
The wall
Here, it's quite technical: it's a part which is fixed on the mounting base, and which goes all the way around it. It looks like... a small wall, in fact, like around a garden. It's basically the joint of the entire shoe, the place where the assembly structure rests. Because in this wall, we are going to sew the upper and the welt together, using a seam called a “welt seam”.
The wall, being fixed on the first assembly!
A welt
On Goodyear welted shoes, it is the outer leather strip that goes around the shoe, along the wall. It is fixed to the wall and to the rod. And with another separate seam (called "petits-stitches"), we then attach the "outsole", or "outsole" to it.
A welt being assembled onto the shoe.
The shank
It is a small tab that can be made of metal, plastic or, more upscale, wood and/or leather. It is placed at the level of the arch of the foot to support it. Right between the insole and the outsole. So you can't see it as a customer.
Leather/corrected grain and full grain leather
That's easy: if a leather has scratches, scars or wrinkles after tanning, the craftsman will sand it and apply other treatments to hide all that. It is therefore a rectified or corrected leather.
But if the leather is of excellent quality, it is left as is: it is therefore “full grain” leather.
The “flower” is the surface layer of the skin, which has been preserved. Full grain leather is generally recognized as being of much better quality, since imperfections are not hidden... But this requires choosing the best skins.
A grade of leather
At tanners, you generally have several qualities of leather available (usually two or three), with more or less defects. We simply call it a grade of leather.
It's not enough to have a beautiful starting skin: you still need to cut it correctly. As you can see, even very beautiful skins are not free from defects, and this is where the cutter comes in.
Travel diary: my first visit to a shoe workshop
For this pair of boots, I would like to tell you things differently than what I usually do.
During this trip, I learned and understood so many things that it would be stupid not to take the time to share them with you. I was finally able to put images "seen in real life" on things that I had known "in theory" for years.
Of course, I will give you all the details about the product itself. Of course, we will talk about leather, quality and technique...
But before that, I would like to take the time to tell you how I experienced this visit. Because it was a really significant event for me.
And I think I can even say that it has definitely changed my relationship with shoes . For those who only want the facts, and nothing but the facts, I won't forbid you from looking directly further down in the article.
But as Benedict always says... "The heart must speak".
To welcome us, Barker took the trouble to hoist the French flag next to the Union Jack! On the left, Julien our product manager, (a little shy when he has to show his face), and on the right Benoît and me. With the tired faces of those who got up at dawn to catch the plane...
Almost artisanal know-how
The first thing that struck me was seeing the manual work of the people. It's only once in the workshop that we realize: "what I wear on my feet is really, entirely made by humans."
I knew it before I saw it, but like many things, you don't measure its weight until you see it with your own eyes.
Because the number of operations necessary to produce a finished Goodyear-welted shoe exceeds 200 .
It's a number that we often hear in the marketing of brands doing old-fashioned bootmaking, but you have to see it to understand what's at stake. It took me no less than 5 hours of visit to see all the steps and listen to all the explanations.
Being able to put faces to the people who make shoes that you know you're going to wear soon... It's a hard feeling to explain, but it changes things in my eyes. Here, this gentleman plans the sole and the welt after their assembly.
However, I would like to put an end to any ambiguity from now on, and open the following parenthesis...
Breaking the myth of “handmade” shoes
I said “quasi-artisanal” above. Why just “almost”?
Because as beautiful and neat as your shoes are , and whatever the level of know-how required... if we are rigorous, we must speak of "industrial shoes". Simply because they are made on a production line , using machines that assist the human hand.
Whereas “artisanal” shoes are technically shoes made only with the tools of yesteryear, without any mechanical or electrical assistance for assembly. No machine. On the other hand, a shoe entirely handmade from A to Z costs several thousand euros, and it almost no longer exists. And for shoes where only the assembly is handmade, we very rarely cost less than €1000 when it is made in Italy or in England.
Moreover, it is not even “Goodyear stitched”, in the case of a handmade item, but a “welted stitch”, made with leather, a thread, a hand, and tools. That’s it! as they say at home.
The Goodyear machine is actually an invention from 1869 which aimed to imitate, as much as possible, the quality of a shoemaker's stitching, while allowing the production of shoes to be industrialized.
It remains a very complex operation because it requires a qualified worker and a lot of time. Especially compared to a simple glued shoe (or even a Blake stitched one). But it remains incomparable to hand-sewn.
There you go, that's a "handmade" shoe, bet Yohei Fukuda, master shoemaker. (credits: keyyes.com)
Besides, I'm tired of seeing the number of brands that talk about "handmade" on shoes, because it's a real abuse of language. I would even say that it is smoke and mirrors for customers.
Because shoes (just like clothes) cannot be put together “except with hands”. However, if we take the trouble to use the words "artisanal" or "by hand", it is normally that we are talking about shoes made traditionally, and without machines.
Which is obviously not the case for 99.99% of brands. Otherwise the average French person would have to pay several months' salary to avoid walking around barefoot... In fact, even the big names costing more than €1000 a pair are for the most part not "handmade shoes".
Some play with words... But we know that you prefer things to be explained clearly.
That said, even if this construction is not entirely "artisanal", the dexterity of the worker is of capital importance, because the machine does not do everything, far from it.
Even making a high-end garment seems “simple” compared to making a good Goodyear shoe.
Another element that made me aware of the role of the worker and his experience: it is the enormous challenge of selecting and cutting the leathers.
The upper being assembled... Each piece of leather that makes it up must be selected to avoid as much as possible the small scratches, veins or wrinkles that occur on the leather.
It's easy to be super demanding when you see a finished pair on a display, and to nitpick at the slightest crease, the slightest scratch...
But when you see what a complete hide looks like after tanning, before it is cut, you quickly change your point of view. It's really animal skin, not a 3D printed polymer!
All these little veins, wrinkles, scratches, and all the work of these people, carefully scrutinizing in order to get the best out of each skin , so that you have as few defects as possible...
Another thing that I already “knew” very well, but which when seen in real life, left a strong impression on me. When I got home, I noticed the slight imperfections in the leather of some of my shoes, which I had until then seen as reasons to be disappointed.
Except now, I consider myself rather lucky to have shoes that are so close to being perfect.
Here is the upper of our boots, before being shaped and assembled. At this stage, the leather is still in a “raw” and unfinished state. Note the very beautiful appearance of this skin, almost free of imperfections...
Steve, a man who dedicated his life to quality footwear
You know, in general I'm the suspicious type when it comes to communication. I have a little skeptical side that I don't hide.
So, when I saw that we were going to write “Made in England, with Love by Barker” on our shoes, I looked at Benoît, and I said:
Yeah, okay, but it's a bit care bear. You do not find...?
Well, I was going to get a real slap ...
Let me introduce you to someone.
This is Steve, the production manager! Always passionate in his explanations.
Steve is responsible for production. This means that he masters all the operations necessary to produce a pair in the Barker factory .
Today, he supervises and controls each step , and ensures that we obtain a top product at the end of the chain.
He was our guide throughout the day, he explained each operation to us during the workshop visit.
Sometimes, in the middle of the deafening noise of the machines, and always with his own humor, a false scowl, and an ability to make fun of everything with talent.
A true well of knowledge
As I am very curious, I asked him all my questions at every opportunity. And obviously, I did everything to prove to him that I too, a young fashion editor and passionate about clothes and shoes, knew what he was talking about.
As the day went on, I noticed that the more we talked, the more Steve seemed excited to spend time talking about shoes with us.
And towards the end of our visit, Christophe, our editor-in-chief, came to see me unexpectedly and said:
- "Nicolò, we have to interview Steve, and we have to leave for the airport in 15 minutes. I was going to do it, but ultimately your level of English is better, and you know the shoe much better. So we decided tell Jason that it should be you who conducts the interview. Can you handle that?"
- Ah.. Oh good? Me ? Well, okay then... Are you sure? Well, okay, I'll do it."
I had never taken part in the exercise, and I was under pressure, but I gave it a go. And that’s where I had the most memorable experience.
“BonneGueule, Made in England with Love, by Barker”. I had no idea how true what was written on this sole was.
A touching interview
For 20 minutes, face to face, I spoke to a man who, from his youth, dedicated his life to mastering all the operations to make a real quality shoe.
And my goal was for him to give us, in front of the camera, all his knowledge, in the most natural way possible.
I felt at times that he was really moved. And I didn't expect that. I had the pleasure of seeing a man's eyes come alive because we were interested in the know-how to which he had devoted his entire life.
Even if I won't hide from you that it wasn't easy to interview him: he was sometimes a little stressed too. So I simply tried to chat with him, like two enthusiasts on a forum talking about shoes together.
And what a pleasure to see him becoming more and more confident throughout the dialogue...
(By the way, I regret not having been there the day Phil, the workshop leader, was interviewed. The two interviews took place one day apart, for reasons of availability.)
After the interview, as we walked back into the Barker showroom, he said to me:
Hey young man, remind me your name? Nicolò? Look, I think you're a really great guy.
You're not like all those guys in magazines who know nothing and talk nonsense all day long! And the same for the other guys from BonneGueule!
It's really exceptional that all of this interests you to this extent. But where did you learn all these things about shoes? Have you done any training? Don't you want to come work for us? You know we need young people like you.
Today, they all want to work behind a computer, because their teachers told them "don't do manual work."
But I find it great, I do something with my hands, I like working in the factory. You need to get the message across to them. You have a mission, you know.
You have to make people understand what it is. The sewn shoe is a magnificent object, it’s exceptional know-how!
And yet he is dying. It's a tragedy!
You know, we're in Northamptonshire, a region where we've been making shoes for centuries, and we can barely find young people to come and make with us anymore. It would be such a shame if everyone forgot that.
Woah. Those were some great words he said to me there. I won't hide from you that I wasn't ready for that.
Really, I didn't know where to go anymore. I thought I was simply there to exercise my usual curiosity, and to have anecdotes to tell you about our shoes... And then finally, here I am invested with "a mission"...?
In that case... Mission accepted Steve! I am therefore committed to explaining to readers as clearly as possible how these shoes were created, and to honoring your work.
Barker Shoes: over a century of experience
First we need to introduce you to Barker.
Located in Northamptonshire, the historic cradle of English shoes, it is a manufacturer which has its own brand, but above all its own workshop.
This is why we are not talking about a "collaboration" as with our previous shoes, but rather about a pair "of our own": Benoît designed these shoes, and Barker brought them to life.
Know-how that can adapt to several ranges
They subcontract for many brands, ranging from entry-level to high-end, since their production tool allows them to adapt to different requirements.
And obviously, we have their best manufacturing grade.
Besides, maybe some of you already know Barker. And we must admit that the brand image is not necessarily very sexy: when you come across the Barker site, you see a lot of poorly photographed models, with shapes that are not always successful... And not all of them are necessarily of their highest grade of quality.
But we were very surprised to see that their quality , when we talk about their “ Handcrafted ” line, does not have to be ashamed of that of major English brands (I will explain to you later why).
Arthur “Grandfather” Barker, founder of Barker Shoes.
Benoît's idea: make "THE" pair of boots
When we think about our pieces, we imagine each of them in a context, a use. You wonder what this piece must represent for you when you buy it, who it is intended for, why... Otherwise, you can quickly get lost, and forget the essential: creating pieces that meet your needs. need.
Benoît's idea behind this pair of boots was quite simple:
I want us to make a pair of boots that are THE pair of boots. The one that lasts a very long time, and that a guy can wear with everything.
It has to be beautiful, durable, timeless in its style, and you want to put it on in the morning without asking any questions.
Neither something too rustic like a pair of American combat boots, nor something too dressy as is often the case with shoes.
And I want our customers who have never had high-end shoes to be able to say that they have bought their first pair of “real” beautiful shoes.
Barker made the patterns. It looks like this. Finally, here... It's the patronage of our brogue. Um, sorry, not ours eh, another one. What, did I say we were going to have a...? No, forget, I didn't say anything.
And for now, I think we hit the nail on the head. Because for almost four years that I have been at BonneGueule, I have seen you asking, in the comments, for brands of boots that strike this delicate balance between the "adventurer" pair and something more elegant.
This is how we did it...
A full-grain French calf from the Tannerie d'Annonay
Shoes start with leather.
And we are proud to have chosen ours from a globally prestigious tannery. And a French tannery, what’s more.
This tannery, which dates back to the 19th century, supplies many major brands, including luxury goods.
Its leathers are so appreciated by luxury houses... that the company was bought by Hermès in 2013. Fortunately, this does not prevent brands like us from sourcing from them too...
Here is the "burnishing" of the leather: using a coating and the heat created by the friction of this brush, the worker brings out the character of the leather, whose appearance when leaving the tannery is still very "matte" and flat. Yes, not everything is at stake in the tannery when it comes to leather. The manufacturer also has its expertise to offer.
There are a few points I would like to draw your attention to regarding quality.
Authentic leather
At Annonay, no grain is ground or corrected and they only supply full grain leather . That is to say that the exterior has not undergone any sanding or varnishing intended to camouflage possible defects.
The beautiful leathers you see are beautiful because they have been carefully worked and selected. And although I am usually cautious with this kind of comment, I think we can say without too much risk that it is one of the best tanneries in the world.
Then, we have a top quality choice at Annonay, the “grade A”.
So, we not only source from an excellent tannery, but also, of the three quality grades offered, we have the best.
The appearance of leather once burnished and creamed. The hard toe is made slightly darker to give character to the shoe.
Be careful, I'm not telling you that we have "the best leather in the world". I would like to be able to say that this is the case, but there is obviously always better: for example, a large shoemaker will be so demanding in cutting the skins that he will only keep the most perfect pieces.
And I have no doubt that, even if we have "grade A" from Annonay, certain brands or companies can exclusively negotiate even more demanding skin choices.
However, I am happy (and even very proud) to be able to say that, as a young shoe brand, we are launching our first pair on such beautiful skins, at a competitive price.
Smooth leather to last
Concerning this smooth leather, the reference that we have chosen has the particularity of patinating well over time. Its browned appearance will strengthen over time and creaming.
The more you wear these boots and maintain them, the more character they will have.
The leather is then creamed by hand, for even more depth in its nuance.
And know that at the end of the line, the shoes are creamed and shined by hand.
An imperishable style
Now that we are assured of having top-notch leather, we need to think about the style of the shoe.
The durability of a piece is good, but when it comes to a shoe that lasts for many years... You still need a style that makes you want to wear it for all that time! A good classic worked as it should be.
This kind of design is really to men's shoes what raw denim is to men's pants! With white sneakers, it will perhaps be the most versatile thing you have in your wardrobe (well, not when it's 35°C obviously...)
Worn with chinos or jeans? The two captains
However, the dog is not supplied with the boots.
With suit pants?
You can do it, the contrast in style will be even more interesting, and you will enhance the elegant side of these shoes.
Moreover, Gianni Agnelli, great master of Italian elegance and former boss of Fiat, was known to have often worn this type of boots with a flannel suit...
Play it like “Avvocato” Gianni Agnelli, and break the codes.
With a trench or a parka?
Military style is yours! You will highlight the adventurous side of the pair.
Yes, you have the right to dirty them moderately, that's also what it's for. Just be nice to them and entertain them afterwards. In this photo, they are going to need it! Be careful, this was not the final prototype, and they were too big for the model's feet.
And the list could go on... Want to wear them with a blazer? Same observation as the costume. And with a perfecto? The very masculine side would only be reinforced.
In short, the secret to this extensive compatibility is this shape which gives you the impression of being ready for adventure, but without making you look like a hiker.
Let's talk about this shape and its balance, precisely...
An obsessively developed form
We didn't just take a basic shape from Barker and apply our leather to it. We decided to develop our own form.
The quality of Barker's montages is undeniable, but there wasn't much that we liked in their park of shapes, a bit old school .
And it certainly cost us quite a lot, but it allows us to have our own interpretation of the beautiful shoe.
When developing a form from scratch, the workshop must go through the development of a complete pattern. As Steve says, it starts with simple paper, and ends with a pair of shoes that will last for years.
I will show you the second prototype, the third, and the final version. Before that, there was a prototype made on the basic Barker last (which we completely revised as a result), but it was not the right leather, not the right sole, not the right laces... In fact it had almost nothing to do with the final version.
Second prototype
The second prototype was in Horween Chromexcel leather. We had a lot of expectations for this legendary leather, used by major American workboot brands, but...
On the one hand, due to US import costs, it was a bit more expensive than our excellent French leather. And on the other hand, it is aging in a very pronounced way as the photos show. And we were worried that it wouldn't meet your expectations.
Note from Benoit about Chromexcel
I love this leather, that’s it. On the other hand, it is expensive.
Certainly, it's a legendary leather in workwear, but that would have forced us to release a shoe in the €500-600 range (a guess).
In addition, its aging causes it to change a lot in appearance, it darkens a lot, the folds become marked, etc. Personally, I love it, but some customers might have been surprised that the final look was so different from the first ports.
I don't absolutely rule out working with this leather one day, but for a first pair of shoes, we wanted a quality leather that was more "simple" to understand, and less unpredictable.
On the left, the final version, in the middle the third prototype, and on the right, the second in Chromexcel.
Note the change in speedhook type, as well as the evolution of the shape, especially on the tip.
Third prototype
On the third prototype, we are already getting very close to what we wanted . The shape has been improved, but the "nose" of the shoe is still a bit rough: it looks "flattened" while being rounded at the tip. This is not yet what we want...
We are already on leather from Annonay (which ages in a much more "understandable" way, let's say), but it does not yet have the finishing that we gave it at the end. The boot is still too high in our opinion.
Always in the same order. From this angle, you will more easily notice the difference in shape and leather. On the far right, it's the single prototype in Chromexcel.
Final version
And finally, on the final version (also called "pre-prod"), we achieved what we wanted: the end is rounded without being clumsy , and raised just right. The shade of the leather has the right depth. The new rounded speedhooks are more harmonious with the design of the boot.
In the end we obtain a fairly rounded, robust shape, which gives off something quite consistent in its lines, without being too "massive".
I saw Benoît and Julien spend hours quibbling over the curvature, width or roundness of this end. The result is worth it though...
Sustainable manufacturing, Made in England
Solid Goodyear “stormwelt” assembly
A good Goodyear welt can be resoled several times , and it gives you a solid shoe that can last for many years if treated carefully.
The secret is that the assembly is carried out in two parts: we first take a first sole, called "assembly base", in thick and robust leather, on which we glue "a wall".
It will be the support for the so-called “welt” seam, which consolidates the upper with the insole.
A Barker worker sews petit-stitch on our Dainite soles.
And only then do we add the outsole, the one you walk on, using so-called “petits-points” sewing.
The advantage is that the day the outsole is worn (and believe me, with a Dainite sole, it will take a while...), your shoemaker only has to undo the seam small dots to replace this outsole, without touching the rest.
The integrity of the shoe is therefore not compromised , unlike a Blake welt on which you have to undo everything.
And as a bonus, our Goodyear is a "stormwelt" , meaning that the leather welt (it goes all the way around the shoe, and, once again, supports the outsole) has an additional "lip" that comes improve protection against water. It is not waterproof contrary to what some brands say, but rain will seep less easily into the construction of your shoes . And that’s good for their lifespan.
A cork paste filling
It helps create cushioning when you walk. Over time, this paste will form into the imprint of your foot , and that's part of the reason why the shoes will eventually become so comfortable when they're actually made to your feet.
Besides, that gives you a good reason not to buy second-hand shoes: once the shoe has been worn by the previous wearer, it's impossible to go back...
The famous cork paste filling... Yes, that's why leather shoes become comfortable.
A wooden and leather shank
It is the most common choice among high-end shoes, for its compromise between resistance and flexibility .
A (real) leather heel
And not in salpa, which is reconstituted leather, or cardboard! It may seem trivial to you, but it will last longer, and this is typically the kind of detail on which many brands save money.
Calfskin insole and lining
This is the least you can do on a mid or high-end shoe, but it's good to point it out.
A lining in a lovely soft and comfortable calfskin.
An anti-obsolescence Dainite sole
It will last much longer than a leather sole with a pad . And then, no need to go to the shoemaker to have a skate and an iron fitted, you can wear your boots directly after purchase.
This manufacturer has over 100 years of experience too, since they designed this sole in 1884.
The nubs on the Dainite sole are discreet when the shoe is worn, and prevent you from slipping when it rains!
Shortly after its invention, it won over the English public for its durability and its grip which prevents slipping in the rain , and its appearance is nevertheless compatible with a dress shoe.
And concretely, what is best?
Please note, this passage is intended for the most discerning and curious among you.
Readers in a hurry refrain!
The world of shoes is a special world, because its enthusiasts have a level of demand for quality that could make the most fussy enthusiast of denim, or even tailoring, pale.
So obviously, when we developed our product, the first thing we asked ourselves was:
“But isn’t there something better, somewhere else from a purist brand? And our shoe, what’s less compared to the very large, world-renowned brands?”
Well, you should know that after extensive research and analysis of disassembly of different brands, Benoît and I came to the following conclusion: not much.
And I can tell you that it surprised us because we were more likely to say to ourselves that there was no point in comparing ourselves to these names, as it would be "more upscale"...
Except that in reality, our research has shown us that, on a very well made Goodyear shoe, from a certain level, there is very little improvement possible in the assembly, except if you borrow certain processes from artisanal boot making.
But then, we touch on the world of large-scale shoes... Worth several thousand euros per pair.
There are certainly shoes that are somewhere in between, but it is with a price that will also be "between the two"... and a distribution that is often very laborious, even on a global scale, and even in the era of 'Internet.
Despite everything, I really want you to realize how well positioned we are, particularly compared to the major brands of beautiful shoes.
So rather than simply listing what we have without you having a point of comparison to understand, I'm going to do things the other way around, I find it more honest.
Our welt being assembled! This is the leather part that goes around the shoe. You can see that it is supported by a canvas wall, firmly glued to the mounting base.
So here is what more could have been done:
The sensitive subject of the shank
The shank could perhaps be made entirely of very thick leather rather than wood, which would also have been stiffened beforehand.
However, the process would be too long and expensive compared to the added value , that is to say slightly more comfortable support for the most sensitive feet and increased durability in the very, very long term.
To my knowledge, no industrial ready-to-wear brand makes an entirely leather shank , not even the most high-end ones. If you want leather shanks, you have to go for “handmade” shoes, with the prices that go with them.
The added wall that unleashes passions
Ah, this famous wall which was the subject of intense discussions with Steve!
The “attached wall” (therefore glued) in canvas could be an “engraved” wall in leather.
That is to say that rather than gluing this support for assembly, we could engrave, directly into the assembly insole, a lip of leather which would support the shoe.
This is a very high quality feature, but the difference will only be felt by those who really put their shoes to the test.
If you are the type to:
- walking directly on the leather until you need resoling, and delaying going to the shoemaker...
- not to let soaked shoes dry between two wearings, and to constantly chain the days you put them on so that the perspiration eats away at the insole...
So there, yes, in the very long term, there will perhaps be a difference in solidity, on a lifetime scale.
But I have the impression that the leather wall has become a demonstration of artisanal know-how rather than a real issue concerning the durability of the shoe.
This is what an “engraved wall” looks like at Hiro Yanagimachi, on a bespoke pair. It is magnificent and of incomparable quality. And it also costs several thousand euros. (Credits: Shoegazing)
And then almost no mark makes an engraved wall!
That's what surprised me the most. Neither John Lobb (around €1200), nor Crockett & Jones on its main range (around €500), nor Edward Green (around €1200). However, these are the brands most renowned for their quality, almost legendary names.
According to dismantlings that I have seen on reference shoe forums, even JM Weston (around €800), the best-known French shoe maker, is now using the attached wall on certain models.
I've also heard that they sometimes have a sort of in-between, where a lip etched into the leather (but not a real full wall) supports the canvas wall, but I don't even know if that is still relevant today.
It would seem that the industry has, for a long time, abandoned this very time-consuming technique, to move towards the added wall. The most purists will say that this influences the number of possible resolings but once again... It is on the scale of a lifetime.
A rod and nails
The rod , before assembly, could be held by numerous small nails rather than being directly stapled to the mounting base.
Apart from the internal aesthetics of the assembly and the traditional side of the operation, I do not see what benefit this brings (and in particular because the welt seam solidifies the whole thing anyway).
Except perhaps if you have to completely redo the assembly of your shoe one day, to the point of having to separate the upper from your insole...
I haven't found enough information on these nails (sometimes called "seeds"), but I have the impression that the brands that use them do so in much higher price ranges.
The material of the buttresses
The hard toe and counters are achieved via rigid iron-on, rather than leather.
And it seems that it is the same as for the engraved leather wall: it is an artisanal bootmaking process. Making leather heel counters and hard toes requires remaining on a form for several days after being moistened ("put in the mood").
The bootmaker then proceeds to "shape" the leather by letting it dry for several days on a form... Which is not ideal when you have to produce thousands of pairs in a factory and every minute spent on the chain gradually increases the price. Shaping via iron-on (and prior humidification, too) saves time which results in more affordable prices.
Cork plate
The cork could have been cut from a sheet of cork, by hand, to take the shape of the inside of the shoe rather than being an agglomerate. Here too, a minor improvement in lifespan and comfort... At the cost of a long and costly manual operation, since each plate must be cut precisely to fill the space inside the wall. Another operation rather intended for boot making.
Same pair here, with hand-cut cork filling. And there are the little “nails” that hold the stem.
In short, after having compared our boots at length with the rest of the market... I am extremely confident that it would have been impossible for us to do better by staying in this price range (you will see on Saturday) and manufacturing English. We really gave our all for this first pair of BonneGueule boots, I promise you!
“Bonus-Benoît” details
Because you know him and his desire to add extra things, out of love for detail...
A membrane that keeps feet dry
Ah there... Sacred Benedict and his aversion to the rain!
Since the beginning of the development of this boot, he insisted that we could have an "extra feature" so dear to his heart: a membrane located between the leather of the upper and the interior lining, which is breathable but does not leave pass the water, therefore covering the entire shoe.
On the one hand, it helps keep your feet dry in the event of a prolonged downpour. And on the other hand, it also allows water to penetrate the leather less, which will make it dry faster afterwards.
Be careful though... These are NOT "waterproof" shoes . “Waterproof” means that water cannot pass through it at all.
However, contrary to what certain brands (either not honest or poorly informed) sometimes make people believe, sewn leather shoes, in classic constructions, cannot be truly waterproof.
Note from Benoit: it's like having a garment made of waterproof fabric, but without welded seams. Here, it's the same: the leather is waterproofed, but the seams are not.
Combined with the membrane hidden inside the leather, the small lip of this stormwelt stitching should keep your feet dry.
However, there are two or three elements that can allow water to pass through less easily, such as this membrane, the stormwelt sewn, or the Norwegian sewn, which has the reputation of being almost waterproof.
(And to tell the truth, I was left to understand during the visit to the workshop that unless it is made by hand, today's "machine-made" Norwegian stitching is not was not waterproof at all)
In short, water can still seep through the seams of the upper and the assembly, so you are not exempt from letting them dry in shoe trees.
As Steve said when I asked him if the stormwelt or Norwegian assembly was really "that waterproof"...
“If you really want waterproof boots mate, then you just get a pair of wellies, right?”
Metal-tipped laces
It's pretty, discreet and it's a way for Benoît to express his love for more "outdoor" clothing.
And as you can see, we also added speedhooks with a rounded shape, to lace and untie your shoes more quickly.
Really essential for this type of boot, at the risk of spending a long time each time you want to put them on or take them off...
And to finish...
I would say that in my opinion, we really fulfilled the objective that Benoît had set. If I could only wear one pair of boots all year, I'd probably choose this one.
It is durable in both its style and construction, of high quality, and versatile in its use.
Geoffrey reportedly said to her , "Basically, she's the 'Mother Of All Boots,' isn't she?"
And besides, I'll leave you, I have to go get my pair.
How to get our December starry clothes? 🌟
Visit our stores in Paris , Lyon and Bordeaux or our e-shop .
